Page 5 of 9 FirstFirst 123456789 LastLast
Results 201 to 250 of 434

Thread: Tracer 2 Builds

  1. #201
    wuss
    Reputation: dropadrop's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    2,364
    VPP in itself does not make it rising or falling rate, it's been designed differently in most of Intenses models (don't know how they did it for the T2 though).

  2. #202
    AKA Mr.Habanero
    Reputation: panzer103's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    194
    So with that in mind,can I use pretty much any shock and it will work alright? If thats the case I'm quite surprised.

  3. #203
    wuss
    Reputation: dropadrop's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    2,364
    Sorry, I did not mean the vpp in tracer two is neither progressive nor regressive, rather that VPP itself allows for different kinds of implementations, and in itself does not dictate the suspension curve. The 951 and M9 are good examples of how different the curve can be.

  4. #204
    mtbr member
    Reputation: borodulin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    71
    Some updates on a fresh snow: Reverb, a saddle, new stem (a bit higher) and beefy Hans Dampf on front. Angleset will complete this setup later.

    more pics:
    http://content.foto.mail.ru/inbox/spin69/842/s-905.jpg
    http://content.foto.mail.ru/inbox/spin69/842/s-904.jpg
    Last edited by borodulin; 02-05-2012 at 12:55 PM.

  5. #205
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    6
    Yeti sb66 or Intense tracer 2?which is the best all mountain bike?

  6. #206
    mtbr member
    Reputation: trojans1993's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    490
    Quote Originally Posted by Scorpion23 View Post
    Yeti sb66 or Intense tracer 2?which is the best all mountain bike?
    Can't comment on the SB66, but I have ridden quite a few AM setups and I'm still blown away with my T2 on just about every ride. In the 5.75" mode its a snappy all-day do anything bike that climbs like hardtail if you have the suspension set properly. In 6.25" position it's a blast for faster, bumpy type descents.

    My T2 weighs in right at 31.0 lbs (with adj post) but is more nimble than many lighter bikes and inspires the decending confidence of a much heavier ride - and still made in the USA - what else could you want?

  7. #207
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mr intense's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    578
    Quote Originally Posted by trojans1993 View Post
    Can't comment on the SB66, but I have ridden quite a few AM setups and I'm still blown away with my T2 on just about every ride. In the 5.75" mode its a snappy all-day do anything bike that climbs like hardtail if you have the suspension set properly. In 6.25" position it's a blast for faster, bumpy type descents.

    My T2 weighs in right at 31.0 lbs (with adj post) but is more nimble than many lighter bikes and inspires the decending confidence of a much heavier ride - and still made in the USA - what else could you want?

    Tracer 2 MSRP $2199.00 made in USA , SB66 MSRP $2249.00

  8. #208
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bridgestone14's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    835
    Ah Mr. Intense you shouldn't work on the weekend. So is the SB66 made in Taiwan then?
    Live fast, Die young, Leave a good looking corpse!

  9. #209
    Pirate!!!
    Reputation: Captain Cobb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    1,405
    Hey mr. Intense, since we've got you here maybe you can help me understand something. I noticed that the tracer2 has a cross brace on the seat stays, just fwd. of the rear tire, and my new tracer29 does not?Why?

  10. #210
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    381
    Quote Originally Posted by Scorpion23 View Post
    Yeti sb66 or Intense tracer 2?which is the best all mountain bike?
    I demo'd the SB66 when a friend was looking to buy a new bike. On the same track we compared it against my T2 with multiple runs. It wasn't the same build so take from it what you will but IMO the SB66 cornered better than the T2 through berms, it wanted to really push you through faster than the T2 did. It has hardly any pedal bob at all and climbed very well. Maybe marginally better than the T2, maybe. Rock gardens were very very smooth. But point the T2 down hill and it was waaay more fun egging you on to go faster. Overall the SB66 isn't as good as I expected but that could be more to do with the build and my bias.

    As vague and non scientific as I may sound. I'm in no rush to swap my T2 for an SB66.

  11. #211
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mr intense's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    578
    Quote Originally Posted by Captain Cobb View Post
    Hey mr. Intense, since we've got you here maybe you can help me understand something. I noticed that the tracer2 has a cross brace on the seat stays, just fwd. of the rear tire, and my new tracer29 does not?Why?
    One of the challenges with keeping chainstay short on FS 29ers, the big wheels leave very little room especially with 5.5" travel, there is just no room especially with conventional seat tube.

  12. #212
    Pirate!!!
    Reputation: Captain Cobb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    1,405
    Quote Originally Posted by mr intense View Post
    One of the challenges with keeping chainstay short on FS 29ers, the big wheels leave very little room especially with 5.5" travel, there is just no room especially with conventional seat tube.
    Thank for the quick reply. That makes sense, I had to use a dremel to grind off a small part of my front derailer for the same reason. This bike is awsome for our sweet nor-cal trails.

  13. #213
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    6
    Thank you for your helping me and for your information......Trojan and weescott

  14. #214
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    60
    Quote Originally Posted by borodulin View Post
    Some updates on a fresh snow: Reverb, a saddle, new stem (a bit higher) and beefy Hans Dampf on front. Angleset will complete this setup later.

    more pics:
    http://content.foto.mail.ru/inbox/spin69/842/s-905.jpg
    http://content.foto.mail.ru/inbox/spin69/842/s-904.jpg
    If I were you, I'll avoid the angleset. Been thru it, installation is a PITA and creaking instantaneously. Requested CC to just warranty it, and setteld for the 110. I believe HS shouldn't have additional axis, since a lot of forces are concentrated on the headtube alone.

  15. #215
    mtbr member
    Reputation: borodulin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    71
    Quote Originally Posted by bashtee View Post
    If I were you, I'll avoid the angleset. Been thru it, installation is a PITA and creaking instantaneously. Requested CC to just warranty it, and setteld for the 110. I believe HS shouldn't have additional axis, since a lot of forces are concentrated on the headtube alone.
    Thank you. I've heard a lot about the creaking anglesets. At the moment I tend to think that the problem is due to innacurate installation. But I just reading about it
    And I really want to get about 66 degrees on the HA.
    Last edited by borodulin; 02-15-2012 at 11:44 AM.

  16. #216
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Greg An.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    23
    Quote Originally Posted by bashtee View Post
    If I were you, I'll avoid the angleset. Been thru it, installation is a PITA and creaking instantaneously. Requested CC to just warranty it, and setteld for the 110. I believe HS shouldn't have additional axis, since a lot of forces are concentrated on the headtube alone.
    I've had angleset on my Uzzi the whole last season and never had any creaking issues. Istallation might be a pita for those with less technical skills I guess. But if you follow installation process (I suggest the lattest youtube video), it should not be a problem.

  17. #217
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    60
    Quote Originally Posted by Greg An. View Post
    I've had angleset on my Uzzi the whole last season and never had any creaking issues. Istallation might be a pita for those with less technical skills I guess. But if you follow installation process (I suggest the lattest youtube video), it should not be a problem.
    I did all the installation process, and even my LBS did it. Followed the entire latest video. Although, I felt disappointed on the last video showing how they're installing it on the yellow T2. If you notice the bottom cup, it shows 1º. That part is not out yet...and that made decide to return the angleset and settled for the 110 as a replacement. After I questioned this new part...they never replied to my email. Check it at universalcycles.com, they're about to sell this part as 0.5º,1º,1.5º lower cups to match your current setup.

    The original angleset that they're selling right now are 0.5º,1º,1.5º upper cups and 0º on the lower cups. I did not feel much difference between a 66º and 67º. I had my time with the angleset, if they will come out with a revised design for a gimbal that will lock in it's place, then I'll reconsider it again.

  18. #218
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    381
    I haven't had any problems with knock on my Angleset but I decided to take my Anglset apart tonight. I found rusty bearing cages. Gimbles that need rust removed. The bottom bearings are knackered. I ride in all weather granted. But the Angleset hasn't seen a bad Scottish winter yet. So 6 months use with 60 to 200 miles a month. I could try to warranty the bearings but even if I do I will have the same problem in 6 months time.

    My Hope Headset lasted 18 months before the bearings needed replaced.
    The Acros lasted 18 months and looked as good as new before it was retired.
    The Chris King has been on the go for 2 years so far and still as good as new.

    As much as the Angleset is a great idea. The bearings and seals suck donkey balls.

  19. #219
    mtbr member
    Reputation: borodulin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    71
    Quote Originally Posted by weescott View Post
    I found rusty bearing cages. Gimbles that need rust removed. The bottom bearings are knackered (...)
    Alas, this is not the most long-lasting bearings. But fortunately they have standard sizes for easy replacement to similar (Enduro bearings not bad, btw)

  20. #220
    mtbr member
    Reputation: trojans1993's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    490

    My New T2

    Here's mine. I have about 250 mi on her now and can honestly say I'm still blown away on how perfect this T2 is for me. For longer trail rides with a lot of pedaling I keep it in the 5.75" setting and it's the perfect all day go anywhere ride. For the occassional shuttle or park day it's a quick adjustment to 6.25" and it descends like a bat out of hell - awesome job Intense!

    Frame: Large Works Raw (hand polished)
    Fork: Fox 36 Talas 160mm
    Brakes: Shimano XTR M988
    Shifters: SRAM XO
    R. Derailleur: SRAM XO
    F. Derailleur: XT
    Cranks: XT with Blackspire Rings (22/34)
    Bash: Straightline
    Bars: Spank 777 Spike 2" rise
    Stem: Point One Split Second 70
    Post: CP Blacklight (dig it)
    Pedals: Clip- XTR Flat- Spank Spikes
    Cables/Hoses: Jagwire Ripcord
    Wheels: Easton Haven UST
    Weight: 31.0 lbs.



    Last edited by trojans1993; 03-10-2012 at 09:50 PM.

  21. #221
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Bronco0's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    13
    The Tracer turn out nice. Your polish job in impressive



    Quote Originally Posted by trojans1993 View Post
    Here's mine. I've have about 250 mi on her now and can honestly say I'm still blown away on how perfect this T2 is for me. For longer trail rides with a lot of pedaling I keep it in the 5.75" setting and it's the perfect all day go anywhere ride. For the occassional shuttle it's a quick adjustment to 6.25" and it descends like a bat out of hell - awesome job Intense!

    Frame: Large Works Raw (hand polished)
    Fork: Fox 36 Talas 160mm
    Brakes: Shimano XTR M988
    Shifters: SRAM XO
    R. Derailleur: SRAM XO
    F. Derailleur: XT
    Cranks: XT with Blackspire Rings (22/34)
    Bash: Straightline
    Bars: Spank 777 Spike 2" rise
    Stem: Point One Split Second 70
    Post: CP Blacklight (dig it)
    Pedals: Clip- XTR Flat- Spank Spikes
    Cables/Hoses: Jagwire Ripcord
    Wheels: Easton Haven UST
    Weight: 31.0 lbs.




  22. #222
    mtbr member
    Reputation: borodulin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    71
    Quote Originally Posted by trojans1993 View Post
    Here's mine. (...)

    A lot of work done is not in vain, turned out beautifully.

    I know that you owned the Tracer VP before.
    Is there any impressions about the difference between the previous version, and the new one?
    Last edited by borodulin; 03-11-2012 at 06:56 AM.

  23. #223
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    530
    Best trail bike ever.
    .
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tracer 2 Builds-img_2860.jpg  

    Tracer 2 Builds-img_2861.jpg  


  24. #224
    mtbr member
    Reputation: trojans1993's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    490
    Quote Originally Posted by borodulin View Post
    I know that you owned the Tracer VP before.
    Is there any impressions about the difference between the previous version, and the new one?
    I really liked my TVP and was very nervous about making the change, but I like the T2 equally as much and probably more. The back end is noticably stiffer which really does translate into more power when climbing. Also the front is a bit slacker which feels great for descending but not really a night-and-day difference (changing to wider bars has a much greater handling effect). I tend to take advantage of the TALAS and drop it down for steep climbs so unwanted wheel lift really isn't an issue that I was a bit worried about. And it takes a while to get the air pressure perfect, but the T2 climbs like a hardtail if you get the Propedal dialed in just right - great for those long smooth fire road type of climbs.

    Overall very happy with it and couldn't imagine a better bike for the diverse types of trails I like to ride. LOVE IT.

    I agree with esku - "Best Trail Bike Ever"

  25. #225
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    28
    Anyone have any trouble centering the rear wheel in the rear triangle? Does the rear wheel suppose to have an offset dish? I doubt the rear triangle or dropouts are bent from riding because I don't ride the bike too hard.

  26. #226
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bridgestone14's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    835
    Your rear wheel should be centered, I know a couple of guys have had to have their rear triangles replaced bc they were wrong from the factory. Check the dish in your wheel and maybe another wheel if you have another one laying around. If it still looks of center it might have been bad out of the box.
    Live fast, Die young, Leave a good looking corpse!

  27. #227
    mtbr member
    Reputation: doll118's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    115
    can any one tell me the seatclamp size of t2?

  28. #228
    mtbr member
    Reputation: borodulin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    71
    36.4 mm.
    Salsa of that size is perfectly fit.


  29. #229
    mtbr member
    Reputation: borodulin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    71
    Quote Originally Posted by trojans1993 View Post

    I agree with esku - "Best Trail Bike Ever"

    Well, I would agree with that too Maybe not the most agile AM bike in the world, but the most forgiving my mistakes on the trail ) A great bike indeed.
    Last edited by borodulin; 03-20-2012 at 12:24 PM.

  30. #230
    mtbr member
    Reputation: doll118's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    115
    nice!

    thx!

  31. #231
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mint355's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    198
    Here is my build:
    Large
    Fsa 690mm risers
    Thomson 90mm stem
    Pro koryak seat post
    Fisik nisene w/kium rails
    Fox float 36 160mm forks
    ZTR flow w hope pro2 evo hubs
    XT rear mech and shifter 1x10 spd
    SRAM xo cassette and chain
    Truvativ cranks
    Ethirteen lg1+
    Totals14.42kgs

  32. #232
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    11
    My build
    Medium intense red
    Xt 785 brakes
    Reverb
    Fox 36 floats
    Hope pro 2 evo with white flows
    Renthal 20mm rise bars
    Renthal Kevlar grips
    Ust rubber queens front 2.2 rear 2.4
    Xtr 10sp shifter
    Xt mech

    Comes in around 32lb

    Raced my first gravity enduro this weekend at inner in Scotland on it and it handled it great, except for an annoying creak from some where?

  33. #233
    Ideas Above My Station...
    Reputation: Orange-Goblin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    1,506
    Gomez1, I too have an annoying creak from BB / dropout area, only on powerful crank-stroke. Mind you, it could be headset and it's just echoing down the frame!?

    Otherwise, my all time favourite bike. Trail riding, DH, all day epics. Love it.
    Its All Downhill From Here....!

  34. #234
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    11
    Quote Originally Posted by Orange-Goblin View Post
    Gomez1, I too have an annoying creak from BB / dropout area, only on powerful crank-stroke. Mind you, it could be headset and it's just echoing down the frame!?

    Otherwise, my all time favourite bike. Trail riding, DH, all day epics. Love it.
    i swapped out the bb for a new one but the creaking is still there i cleaned and lubed he seatpost clamp and still creaking. any idea how you can check the bearings on the frame i have no idea how to get undo the EZ-lock binder-bolt.

    any ideas greatly received

  35. #235
    mtbr member
    Reputation: quickneonrt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    582
    My build to date

    Small Can Am Yellow/ RP23
    2009 Fox Float 36 RC2
    RS Reverb dropper post
    Point One 70mm Stem w/ti bolts,
    Easton carbon Haven bars, Intense/ODI lock-on grips
    XO Shifters, XT front der, XO rear der,
    XTR Trail brakes, Hope floating rotors 183f/160R
    WTB Silverado Ti saddle (Lopes edt)
    RaceFace SIXC carbon cranks 170mm 36/24t, MRP 2x guide
    Twenty6 Prerunner Ti pedals, Twenty6 seat clamp,
    Easton Carbon Haven wheels 142r 20f
    Sram XX 9spd cassette,
    Specialized Eskar2 control 2.3 f tire, Purgatory 2.2 control r tubeless.

    28.14lbs
    2014 Santa Cruz Solo c.

    Moving on to better things

  36. #236
    Broken
    Reputation: Gleeke's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    174
    Quote Originally Posted by gomez1 View Post
    i swapped out the bb for a new one but the creaking is still there i cleaned and lubed he seatpost clamp and still creaking. any idea how you can check the bearings on the frame i have no idea how to get undo the EZ-lock binder-bolt.

    any ideas greatly received
    Try greasing seat rails where post clamps seat.

    Also...I know it sounds crazy but a dab of grease where hubs meet frame. It stopped the creaking on my TracerVP.

  37. #237
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    11
    Quote Originally Posted by Gleeke View Post
    Try greasing seat rails where post clamps seat.

    Also...I know it sounds crazy but a dab of grease where hubs meet frame. It stopped the creaking on my TracerVP.
    will do.
    I have tried pedaling standing up and the creaking is still there, very annoying.
    could it be possible that the bearings may have gone?
    i hope not as i've only had the bike 2 months!

  38. #238
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bridgestone14's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    835
    Creaks are hard to chase down. Have you tried the pedals? My last impossible to find creak was the pedals. After one overhaul I apparently didn't tighten the right pedal down enough, all it took was less then an 1/8th of a turn.
    Live fast, Die young, Leave a good looking corpse!

  39. #239
    AKA Mr.Habanero
    Reputation: panzer103's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    194
    Quote Originally Posted by borodulin View Post
    some updates on a fresh snow: Reverb, a saddle, new stem (a bit higher) and beefy hans dampf on front. Angleset will complete this setup later.

    more pics:
    http://content.foto.mail.ru/inbox/spin69/842/s-905.jpg
    http://content.foto.mail.ru/inbox/spin69/842/s-904.jpg
    love it!

  40. #240
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    11
    Quote Originally Posted by bridgestone14 View Post
    Creaks are hard to chase down. Have you tried the pedals? My last impossible to find creak was the pedals. After one overhaul I apparently didn't tighten the right pedal down enough, all it took was less then an 1/8th of a turn.
    Tightened the saddle, grease and lubed everything and the decided to check the top linkage so I Stripped the top link down and the bearing on the drive side seat tube was grinding and rough. the non drive side was ok but not greatbanyone else had a problem with just one bearing feeling rough? I've only had the frame since January and not will not be impressed if bearings are shot within that time.
    Could this be an alignment problem?

    Also does anyone know how to remove the bottom linkage as I'm unsure how you do it I have take the bolts out but unsure what to do next TIA.

  41. #241
    mtbr member
    Reputation: trojans1993's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    490
    From what I remember once the bolts are out it should disassemble. Are you removing all the bearings? If so make sure you have a fresh set to press back in, it's pretty tough to remove the triangle bearings without destroying them.

    You might want to try some stuff called Finish Line Fiber Grip gel. It's just a gritty type of gel that creates friction on clamped parts. It's made for carbon on carbon slipping and creaking issues, but I read quite a few reviews where it stopped creaks on aluminum parts, although if you're sure its not the bars/stem or seat/seatpost then may not help at all.

  42. #242
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    11
    Quote Originally Posted by trojans1993 View Post
    From what I remember once the bolts are out it should disassemble. Are you removing all the bearings? If so make sure you have a fresh set to press back in, it's pretty tough to remove the triangle bearings without destroying them.

    You might want to try some stuff called Finish Line Fiber Grip gel. It's just a gritty type of gel that creates friction on clamped parts. It's made for carbon on carbon slipping and creaking issues, but I read quite a few reviews where it stopped creaks on aluminum parts, although if you're sure its not the bars/stem or seat/seatpost then may not help at all.
    I have removed the 2 bolts but unsure of how covers come off its this part I'm unsure of n the picture
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tracer 2 Builds-6.jpg  


  43. #243
    mtbr member
    Reputation: DJ Giggity's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,224
    Quote Originally Posted by gomez1 View Post
    I have removed the 2 bolts but unsure of how covers come off its this part I'm unsure of n the picture
    I am having trouble determining what exactly you have tried so sorry if you have already tried this. Have you cleaned and greased the rear drop outs and bolts? That is the first thing you want to check on a creaking intense.
    Only two infinite things exist: the universe and stupidity. And, I am unsure of the universe
    - Albert Einstein

  44. #244
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    11
    Quote Originally Posted by DJ Giggity View Post
    I am having trouble determining what exactly you have tried so sorry if you have already tried this. Have you cleaned and greased the rear drop outs and bolts? That is the first thing you want to check on a creaking intense.
    its the bottom link bearings that i wanted to have a look at. i have the top of the rear triangle free but the bottom link bearings dont seem to move very freely.


    but while stripping everything off the frame to see if i could find the creak i noticed that all the bearings seemed rough, this can't be right for a frame only 2 months old and never had a hose or power washer used on it. not impressed.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tracer 2 Builds-photo.jpg  

    Tracer 2 Builds-photo-1.jpg  


  45. #245
    mtbr member
    Reputation: DJ Giggity's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,224
    Quote Originally Posted by gomez1 View Post
    its the bottom link bearings that i wanted to have a look at. i have the top of the rear triangle free but the bottom link bearings dont seem to move very freely.


    but while stripping everything off the frame to see if i could find the creak i noticed that all the bearings seemed rough, this can't be right for a frame only 2 months old and never had a hose or power washer used on it. not impressed.
    Yeah, I understand you are working on the lower link area. That is why I though I would tell you that you were most likely looking in the wrong place for the creak.

    As for your link questions, once you have the bolts out, you just need to pull it apart. It is a bit of a tight fit but there is nothing mechanical holding it together. Be careful not to lose the washers that go between the link and the frame.

    Once you have the link off you can rotate the bearings individually to see where the problem is. You can also tap them lightly from the inside to see if they move. It could cause creaking if they are not a tight press fit.

    There is no set length of time that it takes for something to get contaminated. It all depends on conditions. I've had headsets get contaminated in one ride. Take it apart and check it out. There could be grit between the link and the frame. It could be your cables that are keeping it from moving. You won't know until you check the bearing individually.
    Only two infinite things exist: the universe and stupidity. And, I am unsure of the universe
    - Albert Einstein

  46. #246
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    11
    Quote Originally Posted by DJ Giggity View Post
    Yeah, I understand you are working on the lower link area. That is why I though I would tell you that you were most likely looking in the wrong place for the creak.

    As for your link questions, once you have the bolts out, you just need to pull it apart. It is a bit of a tight fit but there is nothing mechanical holding it together. Be careful not to lose the washers that go between the link and the frame.

    Once you have the link off you can rotate the bearings individually to see where the problem is. You can also tap them lightly from the inside to see if they move. It could cause creaking if they are not a tight press fit.

    There is no set length of time that it takes for something to get contaminated. It all depends on conditions. I've had headsets get contaminated in one ride. Take it apart and check it out. There could be grit between the link and the frame. It could be your cables that are keeping it from moving. You won't know until you check the bearing individually.
    Many thanks for your advise! Think I may bite the bullet and get the bearing changed.

    And rebuild the bike up and use the grease that was mentioned before.

    Any ideas on the bearing codes as I can't seem to find them any where on the net, I would like to order them before I take mine out.


    Thanks

    Steve

  47. #247
    mtbr member
    Reputation: DJ Giggity's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,224
    Quote Originally Posted by gomez1 View Post
    Many thanks for your advise! Think I may bite the bullet and get the bearing changed.

    And rebuild the bike up and use the grease that was mentioned before.

    Any ideas on the bearing codes as I can't seem to find them any where on the net, I would like to order them before I take mine out.


    Thanks

    Steve
    I think they are 7001 1ZS Max. My bike is a 1st gen tracer vp so hopefully someone with a T2 can confirm it uses the same bearing.

    ENDURO MAX BEARINGS: ULTIMATE SUSPENSION PIVOT BEARINGS!
    Only two infinite things exist: the universe and stupidity. And, I am unsure of the universe
    - Albert Einstein

  48. #248
    ******
    Reputation: nmtim's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    520
    Anyone know the dimensions for the shock mounting hardware? Thanks.

  49. #249
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    307
    I am 90% sure it is 6mm x 40mm front and rear.

  50. #250
    ******
    Reputation: nmtim's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    520
    Quote Originally Posted by Dwdrums00 View Post
    I am 90% sure it is 6mm x 40mm front and rear.
    Thanks!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •