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Thread: Tracer 2 Builds

  1. #201
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    VPP in itself does not make it rising or falling rate, it's been designed differently in most of Intenses models (don't know how they did it for the T2 though).

  2. #202
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    So with that in mind,can I use pretty much any shock and it will work alright? If thats the case I'm quite surprised.

  3. #203
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    Sorry, I did not mean the vpp in tracer two is neither progressive nor regressive, rather that VPP itself allows for different kinds of implementations, and in itself does not dictate the suspension curve. The 951 and M9 are good examples of how different the curve can be.

  4. #204
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    Some updates on a fresh snow: Reverb, a saddle, new stem (a bit higher) and beefy Hans Dampf on front. Angleset will complete this setup later.

    more pics:
    http://content.foto.mail.ru/inbox/spin69/842/s-905.jpg
    http://content.foto.mail.ru/inbox/spin69/842/s-904.jpg
    Last edited by borodulin; 02-05-2012 at 01:55 PM.

  5. #205
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    Yeti sb66 or Intense tracer 2?which is the best all mountain bike?

  6. #206
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scorpion23 View Post
    Yeti sb66 or Intense tracer 2?which is the best all mountain bike?
    Can't comment on the SB66, but I have ridden quite a few AM setups and I'm still blown away with my T2 on just about every ride. In the 5.75" mode its a snappy all-day do anything bike that climbs like hardtail if you have the suspension set properly. In 6.25" position it's a blast for faster, bumpy type descents.

    My T2 weighs in right at 31.0 lbs (with adj post) but is more nimble than many lighter bikes and inspires the decending confidence of a much heavier ride - and still made in the USA - what else could you want?

  7. #207
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    Quote Originally Posted by trojans1993 View Post
    Can't comment on the SB66, but I have ridden quite a few AM setups and I'm still blown away with my T2 on just about every ride. In the 5.75" mode its a snappy all-day do anything bike that climbs like hardtail if you have the suspension set properly. In 6.25" position it's a blast for faster, bumpy type descents.

    My T2 weighs in right at 31.0 lbs (with adj post) but is more nimble than many lighter bikes and inspires the decending confidence of a much heavier ride - and still made in the USA - what else could you want?

    Tracer 2 MSRP $2199.00 made in USA , SB66 MSRP $2249.00

  8. #208
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    Ah Mr. Intense you shouldn't work on the weekend. So is the SB66 made in Taiwan then?
    Live fast, Die young, Leave a good looking corpse!

  9. #209
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    Hey mr. Intense, since we've got you here maybe you can help me understand something. I noticed that the tracer2 has a cross brace on the seat stays, just fwd. of the rear tire, and my new tracer29 does not?Why?

  10. #210
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scorpion23 View Post
    Yeti sb66 or Intense tracer 2?which is the best all mountain bike?
    I demo'd the SB66 when a friend was looking to buy a new bike. On the same track we compared it against my T2 with multiple runs. It wasn't the same build so take from it what you will but IMO the SB66 cornered better than the T2 through berms, it wanted to really push you through faster than the T2 did. It has hardly any pedal bob at all and climbed very well. Maybe marginally better than the T2, maybe. Rock gardens were very very smooth. But point the T2 down hill and it was waaay more fun egging you on to go faster. Overall the SB66 isn't as good as I expected but that could be more to do with the build and my bias.

    As vague and non scientific as I may sound. I'm in no rush to swap my T2 for an SB66.

  11. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by Captain Cobb View Post
    Hey mr. Intense, since we've got you here maybe you can help me understand something. I noticed that the tracer2 has a cross brace on the seat stays, just fwd. of the rear tire, and my new tracer29 does not?Why?
    One of the challenges with keeping chainstay short on FS 29ers, the big wheels leave very little room especially with 5.5" travel, there is just no room especially with conventional seat tube.

  12. #212
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    Quote Originally Posted by mr intense View Post
    One of the challenges with keeping chainstay short on FS 29ers, the big wheels leave very little room especially with 5.5" travel, there is just no room especially with conventional seat tube.
    Thank for the quick reply. That makes sense, I had to use a dremel to grind off a small part of my front derailer for the same reason. This bike is awsome for our sweet nor-cal trails.

  13. #213
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    Thank you for your helping me and for your information......Trojan and weescott

  14. #214
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    Quote Originally Posted by borodulin View Post
    Some updates on a fresh snow: Reverb, a saddle, new stem (a bit higher) and beefy Hans Dampf on front. Angleset will complete this setup later.

    more pics:
    http://content.foto.mail.ru/inbox/spin69/842/s-905.jpg
    http://content.foto.mail.ru/inbox/spin69/842/s-904.jpg
    If I were you, I'll avoid the angleset. Been thru it, installation is a PITA and creaking instantaneously. Requested CC to just warranty it, and setteld for the 110. I believe HS shouldn't have additional axis, since a lot of forces are concentrated on the headtube alone.

  15. #215
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    Quote Originally Posted by bashtee View Post
    If I were you, I'll avoid the angleset. Been thru it, installation is a PITA and creaking instantaneously. Requested CC to just warranty it, and setteld for the 110. I believe HS shouldn't have additional axis, since a lot of forces are concentrated on the headtube alone.
    Thank you. I've heard a lot about the creaking anglesets. At the moment I tend to think that the problem is due to innacurate installation. But I just reading about it
    And I really want to get about 66 degrees on the HA.
    Last edited by borodulin; 02-15-2012 at 12:44 PM.

  16. #216
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    Quote Originally Posted by bashtee View Post
    If I were you, I'll avoid the angleset. Been thru it, installation is a PITA and creaking instantaneously. Requested CC to just warranty it, and setteld for the 110. I believe HS shouldn't have additional axis, since a lot of forces are concentrated on the headtube alone.
    I've had angleset on my Uzzi the whole last season and never had any creaking issues. Istallation might be a pita for those with less technical skills I guess. But if you follow installation process (I suggest the lattest youtube video), it should not be a problem.

  17. #217
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg An. View Post
    I've had angleset on my Uzzi the whole last season and never had any creaking issues. Istallation might be a pita for those with less technical skills I guess. But if you follow installation process (I suggest the lattest youtube video), it should not be a problem.
    I did all the installation process, and even my LBS did it. Followed the entire latest video. Although, I felt disappointed on the last video showing how they're installing it on the yellow T2. If you notice the bottom cup, it shows 1º. That part is not out yet...and that made decide to return the angleset and settled for the 110 as a replacement. After I questioned this new part...they never replied to my email. Check it at universalcycles.com, they're about to sell this part as 0.5º,1º,1.5º lower cups to match your current setup.

    The original angleset that they're selling right now are 0.5º,1º,1.5º upper cups and 0º on the lower cups. I did not feel much difference between a 66º and 67º. I had my time with the angleset, if they will come out with a revised design for a gimbal that will lock in it's place, then I'll reconsider it again.

  18. #218
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    I haven't had any problems with knock on my Angleset but I decided to take my Anglset apart tonight. I found rusty bearing cages. Gimbles that need rust removed. The bottom bearings are knackered. I ride in all weather granted. But the Angleset hasn't seen a bad Scottish winter yet. So 6 months use with 60 to 200 miles a month. I could try to warranty the bearings but even if I do I will have the same problem in 6 months time.

    My Hope Headset lasted 18 months before the bearings needed replaced.
    The Acros lasted 18 months and looked as good as new before it was retired.
    The Chris King has been on the go for 2 years so far and still as good as new.

    As much as the Angleset is a great idea. The bearings and seals suck donkey balls.

  19. #219
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    Quote Originally Posted by weescott View Post
    I found rusty bearing cages. Gimbles that need rust removed. The bottom bearings are knackered (...)
    Alas, this is not the most long-lasting bearings. But fortunately they have standard sizes for easy replacement to similar (Enduro bearings not bad, btw)

  20. #220
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    My New T2

    Here's mine. I have about 250 mi on her now and can honestly say I'm still blown away on how perfect this T2 is for me. For longer trail rides with a lot of pedaling I keep it in the 5.75" setting and it's the perfect all day go anywhere ride. For the occassional shuttle or park day it's a quick adjustment to 6.25" and it descends like a bat out of hell - awesome job Intense!

    Frame: Large Works Raw (hand polished)
    Fork: Fox 36 Talas 160mm
    Brakes: Shimano XTR M988
    Shifters: SRAM XO
    R. Derailleur: SRAM XO
    F. Derailleur: XT
    Cranks: XT with Blackspire Rings (22/34)
    Bash: Straightline
    Bars: Spank 777 Spike 2" rise
    Stem: Point One Split Second 70
    Post: CP Blacklight (dig it)
    Pedals: Clip- XTR Flat- Spank Spikes
    Cables/Hoses: Jagwire Ripcord
    Wheels: Easton Haven UST
    Weight: 31.0 lbs.



    Last edited by trojans1993; 03-10-2012 at 10:50 PM.

  21. #221
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    The Tracer turn out nice. Your polish job in impressive



    Quote Originally Posted by trojans1993 View Post
    Here's mine. I've have about 250 mi on her now and can honestly say I'm still blown away on how perfect this T2 is for me. For longer trail rides with a lot of pedaling I keep it in the 5.75" setting and it's the perfect all day go anywhere ride. For the occassional shuttle it's a quick adjustment to 6.25" and it descends like a bat out of hell - awesome job Intense!

    Frame: Large Works Raw (hand polished)
    Fork: Fox 36 Talas 160mm
    Brakes: Shimano XTR M988
    Shifters: SRAM XO
    R. Derailleur: SRAM XO
    F. Derailleur: XT
    Cranks: XT with Blackspire Rings (22/34)
    Bash: Straightline
    Bars: Spank 777 Spike 2" rise
    Stem: Point One Split Second 70
    Post: CP Blacklight (dig it)
    Pedals: Clip- XTR Flat- Spank Spikes
    Cables/Hoses: Jagwire Ripcord
    Wheels: Easton Haven UST
    Weight: 31.0 lbs.




  22. #222
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    Quote Originally Posted by trojans1993 View Post
    Here's mine. (...)

    A lot of work done is not in vain, turned out beautifully.

    I know that you owned the Tracer VP before.
    Is there any impressions about the difference between the previous version, and the new one?
    Last edited by borodulin; 03-11-2012 at 06:56 AM.

  23. #223
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    Best trail bike ever.
    .
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tracer 2 Builds-img_2860.jpg  

    Tracer 2 Builds-img_2861.jpg  


  24. #224
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    Quote Originally Posted by borodulin View Post
    I know that you owned the Tracer VP before.
    Is there any impressions about the difference between the previous version, and the new one?
    I really liked my TVP and was very nervous about making the change, but I like the T2 equally as much and probably more. The back end is noticably stiffer which really does translate into more power when climbing. Also the front is a bit slacker which feels great for descending but not really a night-and-day difference (changing to wider bars has a much greater handling effect). I tend to take advantage of the TALAS and drop it down for steep climbs so unwanted wheel lift really isn't an issue that I was a bit worried about. And it takes a while to get the air pressure perfect, but the T2 climbs like a hardtail if you get the Propedal dialed in just right - great for those long smooth fire road type of climbs.

    Overall very happy with it and couldn't imagine a better bike for the diverse types of trails I like to ride. LOVE IT.

    I agree with esku - "Best Trail Bike Ever"

  25. #225
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    Anyone have any trouble centering the rear wheel in the rear triangle? Does the rear wheel suppose to have an offset dish? I doubt the rear triangle or dropouts are bent from riding because I don't ride the bike too hard.

  26. #226
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    Your rear wheel should be centered, I know a couple of guys have had to have their rear triangles replaced bc they were wrong from the factory. Check the dish in your wheel and maybe another wheel if you have another one laying around. If it still looks of center it might have been bad out of the box.
    Live fast, Die young, Leave a good looking corpse!

  27. #227
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    can any one tell me the seatclamp size of t2?

  28. #228
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    36.4 mm.
    Salsa of that size is perfectly fit.


  29. #229
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    Quote Originally Posted by trojans1993 View Post

    I agree with esku - "Best Trail Bike Ever"

    Well, I would agree with that too Maybe not the most agile AM bike in the world, but the most forgiving my mistakes on the trail ) A great bike indeed.
    Last edited by borodulin; 03-20-2012 at 12:24 PM.

  30. #230
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    nice!

    thx!

  31. #231
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    Here is my build:
    Large
    Fsa 690mm risers
    Thomson 90mm stem
    Pro koryak seat post
    Fisik nisene w/kium rails
    Fox float 36 160mm forks
    ZTR flow w hope pro2 evo hubs
    XT rear mech and shifter 1x10 spd
    SRAM xo cassette and chain
    Truvativ cranks
    Ethirteen lg1+
    Totals14.42kgs

  32. #232
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    My build
    Medium intense red
    Xt 785 brakes
    Reverb
    Fox 36 floats
    Hope pro 2 evo with white flows
    Renthal 20mm rise bars
    Renthal Kevlar grips
    Ust rubber queens front 2.2 rear 2.4
    Xtr 10sp shifter
    Xt mech

    Comes in around 32lb

    Raced my first gravity enduro this weekend at inner in Scotland on it and it handled it great, except for an annoying creak from some where?

  33. #233
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    Gomez1, I too have an annoying creak from BB / dropout area, only on powerful crank-stroke. Mind you, it could be headset and it's just echoing down the frame!?

    Otherwise, my all time favourite bike. Trail riding, DH, all day epics. Love it.
    Its All Downhill From Here....!

  34. #234
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    Quote Originally Posted by Orange-Goblin View Post
    Gomez1, I too have an annoying creak from BB / dropout area, only on powerful crank-stroke. Mind you, it could be headset and it's just echoing down the frame!?

    Otherwise, my all time favourite bike. Trail riding, DH, all day epics. Love it.
    i swapped out the bb for a new one but the creaking is still there i cleaned and lubed he seatpost clamp and still creaking. any idea how you can check the bearings on the frame i have no idea how to get undo the EZ-lock binder-bolt.

    any ideas greatly received

  35. #235
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    My build to date

    Small Can Am Yellow/ RP23
    2009 Fox Float 36 RC2
    RS Reverb dropper post
    Point One 70mm Stem w/ti bolts,
    Easton carbon Haven bars, Intense/ODI lock-on grips
    XO Shifters, XT front der, XO rear der,
    XTR Trail brakes, Hope floating rotors 183f/160R
    WTB Silverado Ti saddle (Lopes edt)
    RaceFace SIXC carbon cranks 170mm 36/24t, MRP 2x guide
    Twenty6 Prerunner Ti pedals, Twenty6 seat clamp,
    Easton Carbon Haven wheels 142r 20f
    Sram XX 9spd cassette,
    Specialized Eskar2 control 2.3 f tire, Purgatory 2.2 control r tubeless.

    28.14lbs
    2014 Santa Cruz Solo c.

    Moving on to better things

  36. #236
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    Quote Originally Posted by gomez1 View Post
    i swapped out the bb for a new one but the creaking is still there i cleaned and lubed he seatpost clamp and still creaking. any idea how you can check the bearings on the frame i have no idea how to get undo the EZ-lock binder-bolt.

    any ideas greatly received
    Try greasing seat rails where post clamps seat.

    Also...I know it sounds crazy but a dab of grease where hubs meet frame. It stopped the creaking on my TracerVP.

  37. #237
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gleeke View Post
    Try greasing seat rails where post clamps seat.

    Also...I know it sounds crazy but a dab of grease where hubs meet frame. It stopped the creaking on my TracerVP.
    will do.
    I have tried pedaling standing up and the creaking is still there, very annoying.
    could it be possible that the bearings may have gone?
    i hope not as i've only had the bike 2 months!

  38. #238
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    Creaks are hard to chase down. Have you tried the pedals? My last impossible to find creak was the pedals. After one overhaul I apparently didn't tighten the right pedal down enough, all it took was less then an 1/8th of a turn.
    Live fast, Die young, Leave a good looking corpse!

  39. #239
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    Quote Originally Posted by borodulin View Post
    some updates on a fresh snow: Reverb, a saddle, new stem (a bit higher) and beefy hans dampf on front. Angleset will complete this setup later.

    more pics:
    http://content.foto.mail.ru/inbox/spin69/842/s-905.jpg
    http://content.foto.mail.ru/inbox/spin69/842/s-904.jpg
    love it!

  40. #240
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    Quote Originally Posted by bridgestone14 View Post
    Creaks are hard to chase down. Have you tried the pedals? My last impossible to find creak was the pedals. After one overhaul I apparently didn't tighten the right pedal down enough, all it took was less then an 1/8th of a turn.
    Tightened the saddle, grease and lubed everything and the decided to check the top linkage so I Stripped the top link down and the bearing on the drive side seat tube was grinding and rough. the non drive side was ok but not greatbanyone else had a problem with just one bearing feeling rough? I've only had the frame since January and not will not be impressed if bearings are shot within that time.
    Could this be an alignment problem?

    Also does anyone know how to remove the bottom linkage as I'm unsure how you do it I have take the bolts out but unsure what to do next TIA.

  41. #241
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    From what I remember once the bolts are out it should disassemble. Are you removing all the bearings? If so make sure you have a fresh set to press back in, it's pretty tough to remove the triangle bearings without destroying them.

    You might want to try some stuff called Finish Line Fiber Grip gel. It's just a gritty type of gel that creates friction on clamped parts. It's made for carbon on carbon slipping and creaking issues, but I read quite a few reviews where it stopped creaks on aluminum parts, although if you're sure its not the bars/stem or seat/seatpost then may not help at all.

  42. #242
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    Quote Originally Posted by trojans1993 View Post
    From what I remember once the bolts are out it should disassemble. Are you removing all the bearings? If so make sure you have a fresh set to press back in, it's pretty tough to remove the triangle bearings without destroying them.

    You might want to try some stuff called Finish Line Fiber Grip gel. It's just a gritty type of gel that creates friction on clamped parts. It's made for carbon on carbon slipping and creaking issues, but I read quite a few reviews where it stopped creaks on aluminum parts, although if you're sure its not the bars/stem or seat/seatpost then may not help at all.
    I have removed the 2 bolts but unsure of how covers come off its this part I'm unsure of n the picture
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tracer 2 Builds-6.jpg  


  43. #243
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    Quote Originally Posted by gomez1 View Post
    I have removed the 2 bolts but unsure of how covers come off its this part I'm unsure of n the picture
    I am having trouble determining what exactly you have tried so sorry if you have already tried this. Have you cleaned and greased the rear drop outs and bolts? That is the first thing you want to check on a creaking intense.
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  44. #244
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    Quote Originally Posted by DJ Giggity View Post
    I am having trouble determining what exactly you have tried so sorry if you have already tried this. Have you cleaned and greased the rear drop outs and bolts? That is the first thing you want to check on a creaking intense.
    its the bottom link bearings that i wanted to have a look at. i have the top of the rear triangle free but the bottom link bearings dont seem to move very freely.


    but while stripping everything off the frame to see if i could find the creak i noticed that all the bearings seemed rough, this can't be right for a frame only 2 months old and never had a hose or power washer used on it. not impressed.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tracer 2 Builds-photo.jpg  

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  45. #245
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    Quote Originally Posted by gomez1 View Post
    its the bottom link bearings that i wanted to have a look at. i have the top of the rear triangle free but the bottom link bearings dont seem to move very freely.


    but while stripping everything off the frame to see if i could find the creak i noticed that all the bearings seemed rough, this can't be right for a frame only 2 months old and never had a hose or power washer used on it. not impressed.
    Yeah, I understand you are working on the lower link area. That is why I though I would tell you that you were most likely looking in the wrong place for the creak.

    As for your link questions, once you have the bolts out, you just need to pull it apart. It is a bit of a tight fit but there is nothing mechanical holding it together. Be careful not to lose the washers that go between the link and the frame.

    Once you have the link off you can rotate the bearings individually to see where the problem is. You can also tap them lightly from the inside to see if they move. It could cause creaking if they are not a tight press fit.

    There is no set length of time that it takes for something to get contaminated. It all depends on conditions. I've had headsets get contaminated in one ride. Take it apart and check it out. There could be grit between the link and the frame. It could be your cables that are keeping it from moving. You won't know until you check the bearing individually.
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  46. #246
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    Quote Originally Posted by DJ Giggity View Post
    Yeah, I understand you are working on the lower link area. That is why I though I would tell you that you were most likely looking in the wrong place for the creak.

    As for your link questions, once you have the bolts out, you just need to pull it apart. It is a bit of a tight fit but there is nothing mechanical holding it together. Be careful not to lose the washers that go between the link and the frame.

    Once you have the link off you can rotate the bearings individually to see where the problem is. You can also tap them lightly from the inside to see if they move. It could cause creaking if they are not a tight press fit.

    There is no set length of time that it takes for something to get contaminated. It all depends on conditions. I've had headsets get contaminated in one ride. Take it apart and check it out. There could be grit between the link and the frame. It could be your cables that are keeping it from moving. You won't know until you check the bearing individually.
    Many thanks for your advise! Think I may bite the bullet and get the bearing changed.

    And rebuild the bike up and use the grease that was mentioned before.

    Any ideas on the bearing codes as I can't seem to find them any where on the net, I would like to order them before I take mine out.


    Thanks

    Steve

  47. #247
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    Quote Originally Posted by gomez1 View Post
    Many thanks for your advise! Think I may bite the bullet and get the bearing changed.

    And rebuild the bike up and use the grease that was mentioned before.

    Any ideas on the bearing codes as I can't seem to find them any where on the net, I would like to order them before I take mine out.


    Thanks

    Steve
    I think they are 7001 1ZS Max. My bike is a 1st gen tracer vp so hopefully someone with a T2 can confirm it uses the same bearing.

    ENDURO MAX BEARINGS: ULTIMATE SUSPENSION PIVOT BEARINGS!
    Only two infinite things exist: the universe and stupidity. And, I am unsure of the universe
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  48. #248
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    Anyone know the dimensions for the shock mounting hardware? Thanks.

  49. #249
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    I am 90% sure it is 6mm x 40mm front and rear.

  50. #250
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dwdrums00 View Post
    I am 90% sure it is 6mm x 40mm front and rear.
    Thanks!

  51. #251
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    The bearings you are after are these
    The new lower linkages use a 15mm axle not 12

    7902 2RS MAX
    The 7902 is a special ANGULAR CONTACT
    version of the 6902 bearing.
    It is only to be used on a hub or other component
    designed for its usage.
    DIMENSIONS .............................................. 15mm x 28mm x 7mm
    SEALS .................................................. .. Dual-lip medium/high contact
    BALL MATERIAL .................................................. .... Chromium Steel
    BALL GRADE .................................................. .............................. 10
    RACES .................................................. .................. Chromium Steel
    APPLICATION ................................. Wheel Bearing, Suspension Pivots
    GREASE ................................. Rock 'n' Roll Super-Web (in most cases)

  52. #252
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    cheers buddy

  53. #253
    I make light things heavy
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    New Dropper post?

    Quote Originally Posted by esku View Post
    Best trail bike ever.
    .
    @esku,
    What kind of dropper post is that you have there?
    @all,
    Beautiful bikes. This bike is the one that truly causes me to consider something other than the Mojo HD when I get the money saved. Any thoughts on the two bikes compared?

    Thanks in advance.

  54. #254
    ٩(͡๏̯͡๏)۶[$̲̅(̲̅ιοο̲̅)$]
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    KS Lev Seatpost

    Quote Originally Posted by hrsjqb1 View Post
    @esku,
    What kind of dropper post is that you have there?
    ...
    Looks like the Kind Shock Lev. Not available in the US I think until late-Spring/Summer? Give us some intel esku, where'd you get it?

    From MTBR Interbike coverage...
    KS LEV Adjustable Seatpost | MTBR Interbike Coverage

  55. #255
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    Mine


    Intense Tracer 2 size M, RP23 shock
    BOS Deville forks
    2012 Formula R1 brakes
    Works components -2 angle cups
    XX Shifter
    XX Mech
    XX Casette (11-36)
    XT Cranks
    LG1+ with 34T ethirteen chainring
    KMC SL chain
    Rockshox Reverb
    Fizik Tundra 2 saddle
    Thomson 4x stem
    Renthal Fatbar (38mm rise), acros grips
    Stans ZTR flow on Hope 2, , tubeless, Specialized Eskar/Purgatory combo
    XTR Trail pedals

    darn, can't post a pic, some weird nti-spamming forum rule which requires me to have 10 posts
    Last edited by supercow; 04-16-2012 at 10:34 AM.

  56. #256
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    For the record, changed my bearings all out (First upper, then lower, as upper ones didn't get rid of creak) used standard 6902 as couldn't get 7902 (Angular version). The creak instantly went and bike is running as if new again. So happy it doesn't sound like a chunk of crap considering how much it cost!!! Smooth as again!!!
    Its All Downhill From Here....!

  57. #257
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    Nice. Will do as well.

  58. #258
    Boop!
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    My build:

    Medium White
    20mm Front Axle, 142x12mm Shimano Rear Axle
    Rock Shox Lyrik RC2DH Fork 170mm
    Marzocchi Roco WC Air Shock
    Cane Creek Angleset .5*
    Loaded Headset Spacers
    Thomson 70mm 0* Stem
    Loaded AMXc Handlebars 710mm
    Loaded Grips
    Formula The One Brakes 200mm Front/180mm Rear
    Jagwire Hyflo Brake Lines
    SRAM X.0 Rear Derailleur Short Cage
    KCNC Ceramic Rear Derailleur Pulleys
    Jagwire Shifter Cable
    SRAM PG-990 9-Speed Cassette
    Truvativ Noir X.3 Carbon Crankset 175mm
    Loaded Pedals
    Salsa 36t Front Chainring
    MRP G2 SL Chain Guide
    Hope 36.4mm Seat Clamp
    Kind Shock i950 Seat Post
    Selle Italia Max Flite Gel Seat
    Chris King Hubs, Loaded AMX Rims, DT Steel Nipples, Titanium Spokes
    Maxxis High Roller 2.35" 60a

    **Stans Tubeless Setup
    **Custom Intense Stickers Vectorized and Re-cut By Ourselves

    31lbs.

  59. #259
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    Wow that sounds pretty impressive, where are the pics?
    Live fast, Die young, Leave a good looking corpse!

  60. #260
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sweatypants View Post
    haha it won't let me post any. like 3 threads down in the Intense section... posted by Dynamicz.
    Try IMG code.

  61. #261
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    haha it won't let me post any. like 3 threads down in the Intense section... posted by Dynamicz.

  62. #262
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    Finally got mine done! I'll have some more pics soon after I give it a bath



    Frame: Large White, rear 142x12 axle
    Fork: Fox Float 160 RLC w/ 20mm QR
    Wheels: DT 240/WTB Frequency i23 built with love by my LBS
    Bar: Race Face Atlas 740mm
    Stem: Race Face Turbine 50mm
    Brakes: Magura MT4 180mm front/160 rear
    Drivetrain: XX w/ XO front derail
    Pedals: Crank Bros
    Saddle: SDG
    Post: old Syncros for now, dropper soon!
    Tires: Kenda Nevegal UST 2.1
    Headset: Chris King

  63. #263
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    Quote Originally Posted by trojans1993 View Post
    Try IMG code.


    forums.mtbr.com/intense/tracer-2-if-only-i-put-much-time-effort-pic-p0rn-784290.html

  64. #264
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    Quote Originally Posted by bike21 View Post
    Finally got mine done! I'll have some more pics soon after I give it a bath
    Wow, that's an impressive build. How much does it weigh?
    2012 Intense M9
    2012 Pivot Mach 5.7 Carbon
    2008 Look 595
    2007 Custom Litespeed Sewanee

  65. #265
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    How do you guys keep crud out of that lower swing link? Mine gets packed with pine needles, sticks and rocks. Has anyone come up with a fender or deflector of some sort?

  66. #266
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtbnozpikr View Post
    Wow, that's an impressive build. How much does it weigh?
    Thanks! Not sure yet, hoping to get it on a scale soon. I'm hoping I'm under the 30 range but we'll see.

  67. #267
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    Quote Originally Posted by Captain Cobb View Post
    How do you guys keep crud out of that lower swing link? Mine gets packed with pine needles, sticks and rocks. Has anyone come up with a fender or deflector of some sort?
    I just cut up a inner tube and zip tied it to the seat tube and the lower triangle stays. Works great but dont look so great...

  68. #268
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    Quote Originally Posted by mint355 View Post
    I just cut up a inner tube and zip tied it to the seat tube and the lower triangle stays. Works great but dont look so great...
    That's about what I had figured, I was hoping someone had gotten fancy with it.

  69. #269
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    Panzers Tracer 2

    This is my T2. Its a pretty basic build but it works for me.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tracer 2 Builds-tracer-two.jpg  


  70. #270
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    Quote Originally Posted by bike21 View Post
    Finally got mine done! I'll have some more pics soon after I give it a bath

    You might want to route that front brake line inside the fork leg.
    konahonzo

  71. #271
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    Ah yes, the age old question, inside or outside...
    Live fast, Die young, Leave a good looking corpse!

  72. #272
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    Why would you route the brake cable outside?

    P.S. nice bike

  73. #273
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    Quote Originally Posted by gretch View Post
    Why would you route the brake cable outside?

    P.S. nice bike
    My old school methodology?

    I'll think about this, what is the argument for one way or the other?

  74. #274
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    Quote Originally Posted by bike21 View Post
    My old school methodology?

    I'll think about this, what is the argument for one way or the other?
    Fox routes the brake line between the wheel and the leg. I don't think there's any reason other than aesthetics.
    2012 Intense M9
    2012 Pivot Mach 5.7 Carbon
    2008 Look 595
    2007 Custom Litespeed Sewanee

  75. #275
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtbnozpikr View Post
    Fox routes the brake line between the wheel and the leg. I don't think there's any reason other than aesthetics.
    Gotcha, looking at other pics it does look more 'clean' running through the inside. I need to shorten my front hose again anyway, so might as well make it happen.

  76. #276
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtbnozpikr View Post
    Fox routes the brake line between the wheel and the leg. I don't think there's any reason other than aesthetics.
    They route them on the inside so it is less likely to snag on something.
    Only two infinite things exist: the universe and stupidity. And, I am unsure of the universe
    - Albert Einstein

  77. #277
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    Quote Originally Posted by DJ Giggity View Post
    They route them on the inside so it is less likely to snag on something.
    I never had a problem either way.

  78. #278
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    Very nice rides here. Thinking about moving on from my 5.5

  79. #279
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    routing it on the inside(front hose) is a lot safer because in the event of a bad crash or fall, u don't want to be stuck in the middle of the trail with a busted hydro hose. IMHO. speed safe!

  80. #280
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    Incredible ride today on the Exploration Trail up by Running Springs and got a chance to field test the Bionicon C-Guide I just put on. Perfect way to spend a b-day weekend. I honeslty like this bike more and more every time I ride it. AM perfection IMO.

  81. #281
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    love my tracer 2

  82. #282
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    Quote Originally Posted by trojans1993 View Post
    Incredible ride today on the Exploration Trail up by Running Springs and got a chance to field test the Bionicon C-Guide I just put on. Perfect way to spend a b-day weekend. I honeslty like this bike more and more every time I ride it. AM perfection IMO.
    After two weeks in the Crimean mountains I would agree with that statement. T2 proved to be an excellent bike, uphill and down.

    Angleset in -1 degree is the rule for this frame, IMO

    Actual setup: CCDB, tubeless tires, 50mm stem, Spank Spike flat pedals


    Full size:
    http://content.foto.mail.ru/inbox/spin69/955/s-981.jpg

    PS:Also ordered this device from Bionicon
    Last edited by borodulin; 05-22-2012 at 08:05 AM.

  83. #283
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    Found a great deal on a very slightly used XL Tracer 2 frame and built it up with a mix of new and old parts. Very stoked to get out and ride it, just have to wait to heal my shoulder which I separated 2 weeks ago.

    Fork: 2012 Marzocchi RC3 Evo Ti
    Shock: Fox RP23
    Bars: Sunline V-One 745
    Stem: Thomson Elite X4 50mm
    Brakes: Avid Elixir CR
    Shifters: SRAM X9
    Front D: Shimano XT Direct Mount
    Rear D: SRAM X9 medium
    Crank: SRAM X9 2x10
    Cassette: SRAM 1050
    Chain: KMC 10.93
    Chain guide: MRP 2X
    Seatpost: Thomson Elite (Soon to be KS Lev?)
    Seat: WTB Rocket
    Wheels: DT Swiss 5.1D with 340 rear, Hope front hubs
    Tires: Maxxis Minion DFR front, High Roller rear tubeless

    Tracer 2 Builds-drive-side-1.jpg

  84. #284
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    2 in 1 Tracer 2

    AM Mode

    Trail Mode

  85. #285
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    Quote Originally Posted by nmtim View Post
    AM Mode

    Trail Mode
    What´s your transmission (chainring teeth and cassette )??

  86. #286
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    Quote Originally Posted by bullit43 View Post
    What´s your transmission (chainring teeth and cassette )??
    Gamut 32 ring and SRAM 1070 11-36

  87. #287
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    This has goooone already and has been replaced with a nice Yellow Tracer 2. Same build kit, only added a little weight, so should still be a swiss army bike. Came in at 12.68kgs.



    Last edited by andy_n; 06-28-2012 at 07:18 PM.

  88. #288
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    been a year now and still loving it. freshly serviced suspension, hubs, and bottom bracket. Just like new!!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tracer 2 Builds-tracer-2.1.jpg  

    Tracer 2 Builds-tracer-2.2.jpg  

    Tracer 2 Builds-tracer-2.3.jpg  

    Tracer 2 Builds-tracer-2.jpg  


  89. #289
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    Hey Vern, how do you like the coil? I've heard some that really like it and others say it's not the right match for T2 because of a soft mid stroke. Cool color too, is that a custom "champagne" type color or just the sun hitting a raw making it look different.

  90. #290
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    Love it. I'm 250lbs, so if there's anything soft with the mid stroke it's not affecting my riding. Still climbs better than my old cross country bike and soaks up everything I've thrown at it. Color is called gold over raw. Purposely took pics in sun to show what it looks like up close

  91. #291
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    Hello Everyone

    Hi Guys & Girls,

    I just been looking through all the sweet T2 builds, very nice

    I've been riding mine for a year now and I had a TracerVP before.

    The T2 is amazing, the best bike i've had............

    Great on single track, good climber, amazing on the DH I've used two offset shock mounts, i think the Head Angle is approx 65 degrees, nice and slack

    This is mine,

    2011 Intense tracer 2 large
    Works Grey
    CaneCreek DB Air
    2012 Marzocchi Evo Ti 170
    Rockshox Reverb
    Chris king Hubs & Headset
    Mavic 819 Rims
    Easton Havoc Carbon Bars Havoc Stem
    XT Cranks Groupset Inc Pedals
    XTR Rear Mech 10 Speed
    MRP 2X
    Conti UST Rubber Queen BlackChilli
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tracer 2 Builds-1336746736703.jpg  

    Tracer 2 Builds-1336474705984.jpg  


  92. #292
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    hi

    does intense repaint the frames like turner?

    Thanks,

    Geosnow

  93. #293
    deez nuts
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    Intense used to offer that service..fresh paint and bearings. I called and asked about it a few months back and they gave me the contact info for the paint shop they use in Temecula. I e-mailed them and they were super helpful and very reasonable. I forget their name though. Call Intense.

  94. #294
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    killer! thx!

  95. #295
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    After having been riding it for a couple of months, I figured that I ought to put a picture of my 2012 Tracer 2 here. I had an '09 Tracer and the "2" is a great improvement and a great "do it all" bike

    -E
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tracer 2 Builds-img00253.jpg  


  96. #296
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    2012 w/ CCDB

    Tracer 2 Builds-p5100701.jpg

    Tracer 2 Builds-p7010758.jpg

    Tracer 2 Builds-p7010754.jpg

    Tracer 2 Builds-p5050729.jpg

    and an action shot to boot:

    MTB manual with sheep and cow noises - YouTube

    I've got a more detailed photo of just the build but I think riding pics are more interesting anyways

  97. #297
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    Quote Originally Posted by Erockin View Post
    Found a great deal on a very slightly used XL Tracer 2 frame and built it up with a mix of new and old parts. Very stoked to get out and ride it, just have to wait to heal my shoulder which I separated 2 weeks ago.

    Crank: SRAM X9 2x10
    Chain guide: MRP 2X
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Could you throw up a close up some close ups of the 2X chain guide clearances to the inside of the chainring and to the lower linkage? I just spent a solid day trying to install this guide on a medium T2 and found the metal guide plate was rubbing on the lower linkage. If I rotated the lower guide down and away from the linkage (near the 7 o'clock position) then the pulley wasn't tensioning the chain at all. The plate was installed flush to the ISCG5 mounting surface (no spacers) and I'm running a Race Face Atlas 3x9 crank with just a 34/22 ring combo. Interested to see how you made this fit because mine was a nightmare and never worked out

  98. #298
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    Sorry, don't have any pics but I just helped my buddy install a Stinger on his TVP and the clearance is very tight, but we used small spacers on the CG and had to add an extra small one on the BB. It's a pretty tight setup, but it seems to work once you get it right.

  99. #299
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    Quote Originally Posted by SRALPH View Post
    Could you throw up a close up some close ups of the 2X chain guide clearances to the inside of the chainring and to the lower linkage? I just spent a solid day trying to install this guide on a medium T2 and found the metal guide plate was rubbing on the lower linkage. If I rotated the lower guide down and away from the linkage (near the 7 o'clock position) then the pulley wasn't tensioning the chain at all. The plate was installed flush to the ISCG5 mounting surface (no spacers) and I'm running a Race Face Atlas 3x9 crank with just a 34/22 ring combo. Interested to see how you made this fit because mine was a nightmare and never worked out
    Hi,

    I've just removed my MRP 2X as I couldn't get the correct chain line especially in 22 ring, or any significant chain tension.

    This is probably not what you want to hear but i use Shimano ZEE rear mech with clutch and a Bionicon C-Guide V.02 and MRP bash ring, it works perfectly, NO chainline issues, NO Linkage clearance issues. Just quiet secure chain riding.

  100. #300
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    Hey Oldmanrich, I with ya on the Bionicon. I just posted this in the AM Forum about 15 minutes ago..


    BIONICON REVIEW on my 2011 Tracer 2: I got enough trail time in all conditions to form a good opinion on the Bionicon Chaing Guide I've been testing. So far it has exceeded all my expectations for such a simple device. I was drawn to the fact that it weighs practically nothing (less than a seat collar) and drastically reduces annoying chain slap on fast bumpy trails. Simple installation and virtually not detectable chain drag. - works really nice with my 2x9 and feels like it shifts a little more crisp. A little pricey for such a simple part but what isn't on these damn things.


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