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Thread: Tracer 2 Builds

  1. #226
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    Your rear wheel should be centered, I know a couple of guys have had to have their rear triangles replaced bc they were wrong from the factory. Check the dish in your wheel and maybe another wheel if you have another one laying around. If it still looks of center it might have been bad out of the box.
    Live fast, Die young, Leave a good looking corpse!

  2. #227
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    can any one tell me the seatclamp size of t2?

  3. #228
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    36.4 mm.
    Salsa of that size is perfectly fit.


  4. #229
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    Quote Originally Posted by trojans1993 View Post

    I agree with esku - "Best Trail Bike Ever"

    Well, I would agree with that too Maybe not the most agile AM bike in the world, but the most forgiving my mistakes on the trail ) A great bike indeed.
    Last edited by borodulin; 03-20-2012 at 12:24 PM.

  5. #230
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    nice!

    thx!

  6. #231
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    Here is my build:
    Large
    Fsa 690mm risers
    Thomson 90mm stem
    Pro koryak seat post
    Fisik nisene w/kium rails
    Fox float 36 160mm forks
    ZTR flow w hope pro2 evo hubs
    XT rear mech and shifter 1x10 spd
    SRAM xo cassette and chain
    Truvativ cranks
    Ethirteen lg1+
    Totals14.42kgs

  7. #232
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    My build
    Medium intense red
    Xt 785 brakes
    Reverb
    Fox 36 floats
    Hope pro 2 evo with white flows
    Renthal 20mm rise bars
    Renthal Kevlar grips
    Ust rubber queens front 2.2 rear 2.4
    Xtr 10sp shifter
    Xt mech

    Comes in around 32lb

    Raced my first gravity enduro this weekend at inner in Scotland on it and it handled it great, except for an annoying creak from some where?

  8. #233
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    Gomez1, I too have an annoying creak from BB / dropout area, only on powerful crank-stroke. Mind you, it could be headset and it's just echoing down the frame!?

    Otherwise, my all time favourite bike. Trail riding, DH, all day epics. Love it.
    Its All Downhill From Here....!

  9. #234
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    Quote Originally Posted by Orange-Goblin View Post
    Gomez1, I too have an annoying creak from BB / dropout area, only on powerful crank-stroke. Mind you, it could be headset and it's just echoing down the frame!?

    Otherwise, my all time favourite bike. Trail riding, DH, all day epics. Love it.
    i swapped out the bb for a new one but the creaking is still there i cleaned and lubed he seatpost clamp and still creaking. any idea how you can check the bearings on the frame i have no idea how to get undo the EZ-lock binder-bolt.

    any ideas greatly received

  10. #235
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    My build to date

    Small Can Am Yellow/ RP23
    2009 Fox Float 36 RC2
    RS Reverb dropper post
    Point One 70mm Stem w/ti bolts,
    Easton carbon Haven bars, Intense/ODI lock-on grips
    XO Shifters, XT front der, XO rear der,
    XTR Trail brakes, Hope floating rotors 183f/160R
    WTB Silverado Ti saddle (Lopes edt)
    RaceFace SIXC carbon cranks 170mm 36/24t, MRP 2x guide
    Twenty6 Prerunner Ti pedals, Twenty6 seat clamp,
    Easton Carbon Haven wheels 142r 20f
    Sram XX 9spd cassette,
    Specialized Eskar2 control 2.3 f tire, Purgatory 2.2 control r tubeless.

    28.14lbs
    2014 Santa Cruz Solo c.
    2012 Spec Demo 8 red/blk/yeiiow

    Dan@sidsbikes.com

  11. #236
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    Quote Originally Posted by gomez1 View Post
    i swapped out the bb for a new one but the creaking is still there i cleaned and lubed he seatpost clamp and still creaking. any idea how you can check the bearings on the frame i have no idea how to get undo the EZ-lock binder-bolt.

    any ideas greatly received
    Try greasing seat rails where post clamps seat.

    Also...I know it sounds crazy but a dab of grease where hubs meet frame. It stopped the creaking on my TracerVP.

  12. #237
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gleeke View Post
    Try greasing seat rails where post clamps seat.

    Also...I know it sounds crazy but a dab of grease where hubs meet frame. It stopped the creaking on my TracerVP.
    will do.
    I have tried pedaling standing up and the creaking is still there, very annoying.
    could it be possible that the bearings may have gone?
    i hope not as i've only had the bike 2 months!

  13. #238
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    Creaks are hard to chase down. Have you tried the pedals? My last impossible to find creak was the pedals. After one overhaul I apparently didn't tighten the right pedal down enough, all it took was less then an 1/8th of a turn.
    Live fast, Die young, Leave a good looking corpse!

  14. #239
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    Quote Originally Posted by borodulin View Post
    some updates on a fresh snow: Reverb, a saddle, new stem (a bit higher) and beefy hans dampf on front. Angleset will complete this setup later.

    more pics:
    http://content.foto.mail.ru/inbox/spin69/842/s-905.jpg
    http://content.foto.mail.ru/inbox/spin69/842/s-904.jpg
    love it!

  15. #240
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    Quote Originally Posted by bridgestone14 View Post
    Creaks are hard to chase down. Have you tried the pedals? My last impossible to find creak was the pedals. After one overhaul I apparently didn't tighten the right pedal down enough, all it took was less then an 1/8th of a turn.
    Tightened the saddle, grease and lubed everything and the decided to check the top linkage so I Stripped the top link down and the bearing on the drive side seat tube was grinding and rough. the non drive side was ok but not greatbanyone else had a problem with just one bearing feeling rough? I've only had the frame since January and not will not be impressed if bearings are shot within that time.
    Could this be an alignment problem?

    Also does anyone know how to remove the bottom linkage as I'm unsure how you do it I have take the bolts out but unsure what to do next TIA.

  16. #241
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    From what I remember once the bolts are out it should disassemble. Are you removing all the bearings? If so make sure you have a fresh set to press back in, it's pretty tough to remove the triangle bearings without destroying them.

    You might want to try some stuff called Finish Line Fiber Grip gel. It's just a gritty type of gel that creates friction on clamped parts. It's made for carbon on carbon slipping and creaking issues, but I read quite a few reviews where it stopped creaks on aluminum parts, although if you're sure its not the bars/stem or seat/seatpost then may not help at all.

  17. #242
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    Quote Originally Posted by trojans1993 View Post
    From what I remember once the bolts are out it should disassemble. Are you removing all the bearings? If so make sure you have a fresh set to press back in, it's pretty tough to remove the triangle bearings without destroying them.

    You might want to try some stuff called Finish Line Fiber Grip gel. It's just a gritty type of gel that creates friction on clamped parts. It's made for carbon on carbon slipping and creaking issues, but I read quite a few reviews where it stopped creaks on aluminum parts, although if you're sure its not the bars/stem or seat/seatpost then may not help at all.
    I have removed the 2 bolts but unsure of how covers come off its this part I'm unsure of n the picture
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tracer 2 Builds-6.jpg  


  18. #243
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    Quote Originally Posted by gomez1 View Post
    I have removed the 2 bolts but unsure of how covers come off its this part I'm unsure of n the picture
    I am having trouble determining what exactly you have tried so sorry if you have already tried this. Have you cleaned and greased the rear drop outs and bolts? That is the first thing you want to check on a creaking intense.
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  19. #244
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    Quote Originally Posted by DJ Giggity View Post
    I am having trouble determining what exactly you have tried so sorry if you have already tried this. Have you cleaned and greased the rear drop outs and bolts? That is the first thing you want to check on a creaking intense.
    its the bottom link bearings that i wanted to have a look at. i have the top of the rear triangle free but the bottom link bearings dont seem to move very freely.


    but while stripping everything off the frame to see if i could find the creak i noticed that all the bearings seemed rough, this can't be right for a frame only 2 months old and never had a hose or power washer used on it. not impressed.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tracer 2 Builds-photo.jpg  

    Tracer 2 Builds-photo-1.jpg  


  20. #245
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    Quote Originally Posted by gomez1 View Post
    its the bottom link bearings that i wanted to have a look at. i have the top of the rear triangle free but the bottom link bearings dont seem to move very freely.


    but while stripping everything off the frame to see if i could find the creak i noticed that all the bearings seemed rough, this can't be right for a frame only 2 months old and never had a hose or power washer used on it. not impressed.
    Yeah, I understand you are working on the lower link area. That is why I though I would tell you that you were most likely looking in the wrong place for the creak.

    As for your link questions, once you have the bolts out, you just need to pull it apart. It is a bit of a tight fit but there is nothing mechanical holding it together. Be careful not to lose the washers that go between the link and the frame.

    Once you have the link off you can rotate the bearings individually to see where the problem is. You can also tap them lightly from the inside to see if they move. It could cause creaking if they are not a tight press fit.

    There is no set length of time that it takes for something to get contaminated. It all depends on conditions. I've had headsets get contaminated in one ride. Take it apart and check it out. There could be grit between the link and the frame. It could be your cables that are keeping it from moving. You won't know until you check the bearing individually.
    Only two infinite things exist: the universe and stupidity. And, I am unsure of the universe
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  21. #246
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    Quote Originally Posted by DJ Giggity View Post
    Yeah, I understand you are working on the lower link area. That is why I though I would tell you that you were most likely looking in the wrong place for the creak.

    As for your link questions, once you have the bolts out, you just need to pull it apart. It is a bit of a tight fit but there is nothing mechanical holding it together. Be careful not to lose the washers that go between the link and the frame.

    Once you have the link off you can rotate the bearings individually to see where the problem is. You can also tap them lightly from the inside to see if they move. It could cause creaking if they are not a tight press fit.

    There is no set length of time that it takes for something to get contaminated. It all depends on conditions. I've had headsets get contaminated in one ride. Take it apart and check it out. There could be grit between the link and the frame. It could be your cables that are keeping it from moving. You won't know until you check the bearing individually.
    Many thanks for your advise! Think I may bite the bullet and get the bearing changed.

    And rebuild the bike up and use the grease that was mentioned before.

    Any ideas on the bearing codes as I can't seem to find them any where on the net, I would like to order them before I take mine out.


    Thanks

    Steve

  22. #247
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    Quote Originally Posted by gomez1 View Post
    Many thanks for your advise! Think I may bite the bullet and get the bearing changed.

    And rebuild the bike up and use the grease that was mentioned before.

    Any ideas on the bearing codes as I can't seem to find them any where on the net, I would like to order them before I take mine out.


    Thanks

    Steve
    I think they are 7001 1ZS Max. My bike is a 1st gen tracer vp so hopefully someone with a T2 can confirm it uses the same bearing.

    ENDURO MAX BEARINGS: ULTIMATE SUSPENSION PIVOT BEARINGS!
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  23. #248
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    Anyone know the dimensions for the shock mounting hardware? Thanks.

  24. #249
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    I am 90% sure it is 6mm x 40mm front and rear.

  25. #250
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dwdrums00 View Post
    I am 90% sure it is 6mm x 40mm front and rear.
    Thanks!

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