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  1. #1
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    Socom info and dropouts wanted

    Hi guys, I am once more an Intense rider! I had a 5.5 years ago and I loved the thing. I'm now building a second hand socom and would like some ideas from you guys. Firstly, I'm a bit confused about the dropouts. What is the difference between those on the Socom and the G3? The frame has come with 150mm spacing, but I would ideally like 142mm to fit the wheels I have. 135mm would be preferable still as I don't have enough space for more wheelsets - if anyone is selling a 142/135mm set of dropouts I'd be very interested.
    Next, what stack of headset do you run? Just a semi-integrated/ zero stack?
    And finally! I've a set of boxxers to go on her, but for shorter, less gnarly DH trails I have the option to fit some 170mm Lyrics which are likely to be a bit short. I'm going to look into having the stretched upto 180mm. Has anyone else ran a Socom with 180mm forks and what did it ride like?

    Thanks all

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    Welcome back!

    Socom has the classic, non-adjustable dropouts. G3 are adjustable. I haven't tried if they would fit the Socom.
    As far as I know there are no 142 mm dropouts for the Socom, 150 and 135 only.
    Do yourself a favor and check the slacker dropouts out. They lower the BB and slacken the HA. Powell Precision | Slacker Dropouts | 135 Dropouts | 150 Dropouts
    I use a zero stack headset with a Boxxer. Haven't played around with a shorter fork but people were running 180 mm single crowns (actually same stack height as a 200 mm dual crown).
    If you want to alter the HA further you might want to look into an Cane Creek AngleSet.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by iRider View Post
    Welcome back!

    Socom has the classic, non-adjustable dropouts. G3 are adjustable. I haven't tried if they would fit the Socom.
    As far as I know there are no 142 mm dropouts for the Socom, 150 and 135 only.
    Do yourself a favor and check the slacker dropouts out. They lower the BB and slacken the HA. Powell Precision | Slacker Dropouts | 135 Dropouts | 150 Dropouts
    I use a zero stack headset with a Boxxer. Haven't played around with a shorter fork but people were running 180 mm single crowns (actually same stack height as a 200 mm dual crown).
    If you want to alter the HA further you might want to look into an Cane Creek AngleSet.
    Thanks for that. I'm over in the UK and Extra do them much cheaper. I don't think I want to adjust the angles until I've ridden it and experienced how it feels, but I prefer a faster bike, so slightly steeper than is the fashion these days.
    A2C height is gonna be my issue with the 180s as if I spend the money, it will be to extend my Lyrics out. They'd be shorted than a Domain I should imagine (and flexier :s ). Hopefully someone will be able to suggest if the Socom is ruined or acceptable with a shorter fork before I dump the cash into an unknown...

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluechair84 View Post
    Thanks for that. I'm over in the UK and Extra do them much cheaper. I don't think I want to adjust the angles until I've ridden it and experienced how it feels, but I prefer a faster bike, so slightly steeper than is the fashion these days.
    Check which generation Socom you have. The older ones were 1 steeper than the later models. Earlier models have 2 cable stops on the downtube, later 3.
    I have an earlier model and the slackers really opened the bike up. Mainly the 0.5" drop in BB height was great. Now at 14". Well worth the investment if you are shopping for dropouts anyways IMO.

    BTW: I think Works components was also offering slackers. Not on their site anymore though.

    Quote Originally Posted by bluechair84 View Post
    A2C height is gonna be my issue with the 180s as if I spend the money, it will be to extend my Lyrics out. They'd be shorted than a Domain I should imagine (and flexier :s ). Hopefully someone will be able to suggest if the Socom is ruined or acceptable with a shorter fork before I dump the cash into an unknown...
    Wouldn't do it TBH. The bike works so well with the 200 mm fork even on tamer trails. And like I said, nearly same A2C between Boxxer and e.g. Totem, so why bother with less travel?

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    Quote Originally Posted by iRider View Post
    Check which generation Socom you have. The older ones were 1 steeper than the later models. Earlier models have 2 cable stops on the downtube, later 3.
    I have an earlier model and the slackers really opened the bike up. Mainly the 0.5" drop in BB height was great. Now at 14". Well worth the investment if you are shopping for dropouts anyways IMO.

    BTW: I think Works components was also offering slackers. Not on their site anymore though.



    Wouldn't do it TBH. The bike works so well with the 200 mm fork even on tamer trails. And like I said, nearly same A2C between Boxxer and e.g. Totem, so why bother with less travel?
    Cheers, good info. My frame has two cable guides so must be older. Having the lyrics as an option is for weight really. My GF likes to come out riding on tame trails from time to time. She takes mt trail bike and I have to shunt along 8inches of travel for an XC loop or two
    I emailed works, but they don't do the dropouts anymore. I'll keep an eye out for the slackers second hand.

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    I have some brand new Socom 135mm stock drop outs. Send me a PM.

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    PM'ed

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    The G3 dropouts and the original Socom dropouts only differ in how the axle mounts on the dropouts (through axle or vertical slot). Being able to change the frame geometry is dependant of the rear triangle, not the dropouts.

    I would suggest a Works Components offset cups, like mentioned above, and run the boxxer with a flush mount cup at -1 or -2.

    There is a thread on here, where one member was making dropouts for the Socom's (Uzzi, SS) that would lower the bb.

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    Excellent, so I could purchase G3s but I wouldn't have the adjustability as that wasn't built into the Socom. I'm still looking for dropouts, if anyone has any, do get in touch.
    I'll have a look for the thread, though I did find a guy over on STW who said he was making them, but it didn't come to anything. Hopefully it's not the same guy.

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    PM'ed...

  11. #11
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    Sorry Gretch, No PM received by me...

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    Hmmm... that's odd... in any case I just resent... so check your PMs again...

  13. #13
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    Just as a heads up, a 142 rear wheel fits in the Socom's 135x12 dropout beautifully. Since the spacing is off, my Socom's actual spacing was like 139mm; the 142 really fits better than a 135 rear wheel. I've been running a 142 hub all season.

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    Seriously? Is this an isolated case? And was it designed to be this way, to say; pretension the triangle when tightening the rear wheel or is it dodgy design? Intense has sort of become known for the wide variety of build issues (whether they deserve it or not...) but I'd not heard of this.
    I've been offered some 142mms which I planning on purchasing in a few days anyway.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bluechair84 View Post
    Seriously? Is this an isolated case? And was it designed to be this way, to say; pretension the triangle when tightening the rear wheel or is it dodgy design? Intense has sort of become known for the wide variety of build issues (whether they deserve it or not...) but I'd not heard of this.
    I've been offered some 142mms which I planning on purchasing in a few days anyway.
    Im actually not sure if its dodgy or not, and Im sure it was not designed to be run like that. I actually asked the question on here before I ran it and did not really get any feedback. I also owed an SS1 that had the same situation, the rear spacing was actually like 139mm. I dont really think its dodgy though. If you have a 142mm rear wheel from another bike just see how it fits. Mine slid right in without any protest. It is way easier to instal than the 135mm wheel.

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    Hmm, ok. Well I'm picking up some 142s but I'll bear that in mind. Thanks for the info

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    It's coming on! Had some issues building her up. I wasn't convinced by the stock cable and hose guides so I opted to run them under the toptube, through the shock mount and upper link then onto the seat stays. This meant removing the upper link to pass the cables through. Had a shed load of problems with bearings siezed into the links and bolts siezed into the bearing - the previous owner went a bit nuts with the loctite which suggests to me the bearings are probably knackered. I know a 6.6 owner whose bolts undo themselves when the bearings are worn.
    Anyway, my next question is what size is the seattube? I thought it was 31.6 but it's proving tough stop the post sliding down.
    And Gretch supplied me with a 142mm backend and axle which is all set up. Cheers Gretch

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluechair84 View Post

    It's coming on! Had some issues building her up. I wasn't convinced by the stock cable and hose guides so I opted to run them under the toptube, through the shock mount and upper link then onto the seat stays. This meant removing the upper link to pass the cables through. Had a shed load of problems with bearings siezed into the links and bolts siezed into the bearing - the previous owner went a bit nuts with the loctite which suggests to me the bearings are probably knackered. I know a 6.6 owner whose bolts undo themselves when the bearings are worn.
    Anyway, my next question is what size is the seattube? I thought it was 31.6 but it's proving tough stop the post sliding down.
    And Gretch supplied me with a 142mm backend and axle which is all set up. Cheers Gretch
    Nice!

    Yes, seattube is 31.6. Use a beer can to shim it if it is a lot or use the carbon prep 'grease' if the can is too much.

    You routed your cables the way Intense had them on the old Uzzi VPX and others. And this sucked as you get ghost shifting when the suspension is compressing.
    The downtube and going up to the seatstay routing is probably the best way to route cables on a Socom IMO.

    While you had it apart, did you check the bearings? Just pop the seals open with a pick. And even if they look and feel bad you can wash them out with WD40 and regrease them with some water proof grease (Phil Wood bearing grease or marine grease).
    Thoroughly clean all the threads on the bolt and in the frame from old loctite and put fresh loctite on it before reassembly. Let cure for at least a day before use.
    -> no more pivot bolt come undone problems!

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by iRider View Post
    Nice!

    Yes, seattube is 31.6. Use a beer can to shim it if it is a lot or use the carbon prep 'grease' if the can is too much.

    You routed your cables the way Intense had them on the old Uzzi VPX and others. And this sucked as you get ghost shifting when the suspension is compressing.
    The downtube and going up to the seatstay routing is probably the best way to route cables on a Socom IMO.

    While you had it apart, did you check the bearings? Just pop the seals open with a pick. And even if they look and feel bad you can wash them out with WD40 and regrease them with some water proof grease (Phil Wood bearing grease or marine grease).
    Thoroughly clean all the threads on the bolt and in the frame from old loctite and put fresh loctite on it before reassembly. Let cure for at least a day before use.
    -> no more pivot bolt come undone problems!
    Hmm interesting bit of info there. If I come across ghost shifts I'll reroute. I normally do the bearing overhaul procedure to my BB and headset - but you're right, i should probably do this first before throwing away money if they can be serviced. Cheers,

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