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  1. #1
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    New question here. A question about replacing lower pivot bearings.

    I have just replaced the lower VPP bearings in my front triangle and swing arm. I'm about to re-assemble the bike but I'm a bit unsure about where to lubricate, if at all. I have read the online instructions and know that I need to use blue Locktite on the bolt threads. What is not very clear is should the shafts of the bolts be lubricated. The document does tell you to hold the spacers between bearings and box link in place with grease.

    I'd appreciate any input form someone who knows. Thanks,

    Ronnie.
    The trouble with having an open mind is that people will insist on trying to put things in it.

  2. #2
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    We don't put greese on the shafts although it won't hurt as long as you don't contaminate the thread area where the loctite is. The other important thing is that the pivot bolts sre really tight.Torque spec 15nm.

  3. #3
    Made in Germany
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    I do not know the design of the intense system in detail, but movement should be catched by your bearing, not by the shaft.
    Putting grease on the shaft doesn't seem to make sense.
    The thing mentioned in your manual rather sounds like lowering the friction between spacer and connecting parts...but I may be wrong as well.
    A picture or a scetch of the area would be helpfull.

    Regards

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by mr intense
    We don't put grease on the shafts although it won't hurt as long as you don't contaminate the thread area where the loctite is. The other important thing is that the pivot bolts are really tight.Torque spec 15nm.
    Thanks for that Jeff. I must say I don't see why some people have such problems with bearings. The old ones were over two years old but were actually still fine. I had a new set and decided to replace as I already had the bike apart. In any case I would like to install the grease port kit when available. As a point of interest, I thoroughly cleaned the upper link bearings with degrease and then re-packed them. What was interesting, when installing the seals, excess dirty grease squeezed out of the back seal. This demonstrated the value of having the purging bearings.

    Also a point of clarification. The installation document gives tightening torque at 15 ft./lbs. which equates to 20nm. Which is correct?

    Ronnie.
    The trouble with having an open mind is that people will insist on trying to put things in it.

  5. #5
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    I would also be interested in knowing what strenght/type loctite you recommend on the threads in the axle bolts.

  6. #6
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    it would be nice to have some info...

    It would be nice to have some info on how to service the vpp system period. i have no idea where to start and my bike is a few years old. while i am at it i like to install the grease fittings . can i just send it to the factory to get this done?

  7. #7
    mtbr member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Downhilldoug
    It would be nice to have some info on how to service the vpp system period. i have no idea where to start and my bike is a few years old. while i am at it i like to install the grease fittings . can i just send it to the factory to get this done?
    Off the Intense website:

    http://www.intensecycles.com/2008/as...eplacement.pdf

    Ronnie.
    The trouble with having an open mind is that people will insist on trying to put things in it.

  8. #8
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    My box link bearings only lasted 3 months. I had one seized and the other was on its way. I serviced the bearings and put them back in. They will have to be replaced over the winter. I also found a lot of paint in the bearing seat on the frame. It looked to be some over run. I removed it and the bearing went in good and seated nicely. The bearings on my Moment lasted about a year before they were in the condition of these after 3 months.
    Team MOJO Wheels.

  9. #9
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    instead of starting a new thread maybe one of you guys could answer my questions.

    i took my bike apart to strip the paint and when i moved the link up and down it felt pretty good. when i got everything but the lower link off i moved that and it felt a little notchy, its hard to explain, Kind of like a clicky feeling as you raised and lowered it, probably about 4-5 as it went up and down.
    im going to regrease them when i put it back together. any concern here?

    also on a side note, one of the bolts on the upper link was stuck in the bearing. i think somehow it threaded into the inner race and also the spacer on the back. even after whacking it with a mallet it still wouldn't come out.

  10. #10
    mtbr member
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    Quote Originally Posted by climbingbubba
    instead of starting a new thread maybe one of you guys could answer my questions.

    i took my bike apart to strip the paint and when i moved the link up and down it felt pretty good. when i got everything but the lower link off i moved that and it felt a little notchy, its hard to explain, Kind of like a clicky feeling as you raised and lowered it, probably about 4-5 as it went up and down.
    im going to regrease them when i put it back together. any concern here?

    also on a side note, one of the bolts on the upper link was stuck in the bearing. i think somehow it threaded into the inner race and also the spacer on the back. even after whacking it with a mallet it still wouldn't come out.
    After a while the bearings become contaminated by dirt and the grease gets washed out. That notchy feeling is quite common. It's what I had with my upper bearings. Once done they were very smooth. You need to thoroughly clean out the bearings with a degreaser, flush with water and dry them out ( use a hair dryer if necessary ). Then repack with fresh grease. Once done the notchy feeling will go away.

    If you haven't yet seen it read the thread on VPP bearings.
    The trouble with having an open mind is that people will insist on trying to put things in it.

  11. #11
    Wiz
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    Having successfully (& somewhat unsuccessfully) changed out all bearings, bolts, spacers, box links, mono blocks many times (just a home mechanic) I can without hesitation inform that the reason for grease on the spacers is to hold them in place while you slide the rear triangle back into place...thats the only purpose. The grease acts like a third hand...only much better. The adhesion or suction of the grease is the point here.

    Regarding lubing bolt shafts I say why not. I lube everything , except in the application areas of loctite.

    If you are handy - don't send the frame anywhere to replace bearings if you are in anyway able to wrench without getting frustrated. Just go slow. Tons of info here...I think Pinky helped me through the first time a few years ago. Now that I'm an expert ...I don't remove der cables or brakes, I just use multiple zip tie(s) to hang the rear stay off my seat. I use brass punches for stubbornly stuck races. If the race sticks to the outside of the pocket but the bearing bloz out, you can break out the race by touching it lightly w/a rotor tool. Just be careful & use your glasses. Clean those bearing pockets out well. There can be paint, burrs etc in there. I use a chain saw chain file, picks and degreaser w/a very light touch to clean up the sides and bottom of pocket till it's perfectly clean. I also lightly lube the pocket and also the outer bearing race. Any grease thats in the way just gets squeezed out. I find that the recommended dry install will twist the bearings during insertion. I use a large 8" c-clamp to push the bearing flush (wood blocks for opposing sides). I'll try to find some pics.

    Not as complicated as sounds...I'm just wordy

  12. #12
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    Do grease the shaft or else you risk it ceasing and then you may crack your box link trying to get the bolt out on your next service. Almost happened to me and did happen to my buddy. If you don't like bashing things with a mallet then grease the shafts.

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