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  1. #26
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    My Carbine SL Story

    I do think the Carbines are a bit short in the TT for a given size but if your comfortable on it, why worry?

    I'm just shy of 5'8" and ride a small with an 85mm stem and setback seat post.

  2. #27
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    This is awesome. I'm just getting set to build up my Carbine SL and these posts have been a great reference. Can you detail how you went about stealth routing your dropper. I can see from the pics where the cable goes (down toward the crank) but how did you feed it into the frame? Thru one of the holes where the bottle cage bolt threads are? Drill a separate hole? Something I'm missing. I'd like to put a Thompson dropper on mine and would really like the new stealth dropper they just released.

  3. #28
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    The latest frames came with stealth route hole and iscg threads. Not sure I've the balls to drill a frame, thanks for thread compliments, good to know it helps.

  4. #29
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    I'm riding one of the earlier medium size Carbine SL frames. It has neither ISCG tabs nor stealth routing. I put a KS LEV dropper post on my bike a year ago, and it works great.

  5. #30
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    erm.....Latest update********

    I've lengthened my stem from 70mm to 90mm as the bars felt too close during slow speed turning stuff, also feels better climbing now with a decent stretch. Maybe I should have bought a large frame for my long torso/short arse legs???

    I'm starting to think dropper posts are not for me, I'm just not using it much, maybe I'm not RAD or SICK/POORLY enough??? I'm plenty flexible enough to move around my bike though, so I reckon they're over rated. Would sooner save 1lb of weight and not have the threat of the Reverb breaking again, I realise that's a controversial statement, but that's how I see it. I also feel more stable on descents with the saddle in close proximity, and I can get on the power sooner for seated climbing without having to burn too many matches.

    I've had to change the routing on my rear mech as the cable had started to gouge in to the carbon fibre shock link, not sure whether to ask SAM about that??? Any input buddy???

    I can't help feeling that XX1 would be even better if Shimano had done it, I can't get the gears 100% of the time, maybe it's the wet muddy conditions at the mo or Gripshift being shitty???

    And here's a vid of some Yorkshire riding, it gets more interesting near the end with some nice muddy singletrack. I'm riding more than I ever done at the moment and loving it. I've added music to mask my swearing.

    Austwick Best Bits on Vimeo

  6. #31
    I fix your broken ****!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thelma Viaduct View Post
    erm.....Latest update********

    I've lengthened my stem from 70mm to 90mm as the bars felt too close during slow speed turning stuff, also feels better climbing now with a decent stretch. Maybe I should have bought a large frame for my long torso/short arse legs???

    I'm starting to think dropper posts are not for me, I'm just not using it much, maybe I'm not RAD or SICK/POORLY enough??? I'm plenty flexible enough to move around my bike though, so I reckon they're over rated. Would sooner save 1lb of weight and not have the threat of the Reverb breaking again, I realise that's a controversial statement, but that's how I see it. I also feel more stable on descents with the saddle in close proximity, and I can get on the power sooner for seated climbing without having to burn too many matches.

    I've had to change the routing on my rear mech as the cable had started to gouge in to the carbon fibre shock link, not sure whether to ask SAM about that??? Any input buddy???

    I can't help feeling that XX1 would be even better if Shimano had done it, I can't get the gears 100% of the time, maybe it's the wet muddy conditions at the mo or Gripshift being shitty???

    And here's a vid of some Yorkshire riding, it gets more interesting near the end with some nice muddy singletrack. I'm riding more than I ever done at the moment and loving it. I've added music to mask my swearing.

    Austwick Best Bits on Vimeo
    So your rear derailleur housing has been rubbing the upper linkage? How do you have it ran on the frame? We generally run the rear derailleur housing down the side of the downtube and then over the front derailleur mount to meet up with the guides on the drive-side seatstay that bring the cable straight to the rear derailleur.
    Sam Wilson
    Jack of All Trades
    Intense Cycles, Inc.
    Sam@Intensecycles.com

  7. #32
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    I had it running under the top tube to try to keep it looking neater, like you do if using a front mech, some of the earlier pics in the thread should show the routing. The outer had worn away and has left a ~2mm circular gouge in the link.

    I've changed it to downtube routing, I'll keep an eye on the gouge to make sure no cracks develop, but I wouldn't fancy having it fail on some of that fast stuff lol How much do replacement ones cost?

    Cheers, Gaz

  8. #33
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    Another vid, looking forward to the trails drying out.

    Settle, Malham Cove & Gorbeck 28/02/14 on Vimeo

  9. #34
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    I am 170 cm tall, and have a medium Carbine SL frame with Fox Talas 150/120 CTD front shock, which I run as a 150mm except when climbing. I have an Easton Haven 0 degree 100mm stem and Easton EC70XC 685mm bar, which comes out at about 725 mm with ergo grips. I crashed a while ago and scraped a chunk out the Easton bar (right across the logo).

    As I become more experienced, I am taking more aggressive technical lines, and the nicked carbon bar makes me worry about its safety. So I am changing to a 3T Exsero Team bar (red stripe) which is 700 mm wide. The color scheme matches the Carbine SL really well.

    I find my current bar-stem combination kind of slow in tight quarters, and often run off line. I am thinking of changing to a shorter 80mm 3T Arx Team stem in -6 degree position. I bought the bar already, but haven't bought the stem, because I haven't made up my mind how long it should be - alternatively I could also go for a 90 mm. With the stem at -6 degrees, I think this should give me about the same reach, but should hang my butt over the rear wheel as before. Definitely it will lower my center of gravity a bit.

    Anybody with a Carbine SL have any experience making changes like this? Better to ask here first, because everyone knows the frame.

  10. #35
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    I can't remember if I've said or not??? but I've gone from 70mm -6 deg to 90mm -6 deg and it feels noticeably roomier. Much better in slow speed corners where I felt almost on top of the bars. I might flip the stem next ride too. I'm 176cm, short legs, long body.

    Another vid:

    https://vimeo.com/87622223
    Last edited by Thelma Viaduct; 03-08-2014 at 06:15 PM.

  11. #36
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    Some more vids, anti-shake switched off on my Sony Action Cam.
    It seems to make a big difference to the footage, not for the better imo.

    https://vimeo.com/88538334

    https://vimeo.com/88544972

    Bike has been sweet, going to try the 90mm stem flipped to +6 deg as I've had a bit of lower back ache when riding. If that fails, I'll try the 70mm stem again.

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thelma Viaduct View Post
    Bike has been sweet, going to try the 90mm stem flipped to +6 deg as I've had a bit of lower back ache when riding. If that fails, I'll try the 70mm stem again.
    Try riser bars.

  13. #38
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    Settled on a zero rise 80mm Thomson Stem, seems to be the sweet spot.
    Also put Arch EX rims instead of Crest on my AC Hubs, as I was getting too many buckles with the crests.

    Latest Vid:

    https://vimeo.com/96113474

    Kind of wishing I'd put the money in to a Ripley now, although the bike is still sweet.

    TV

  14. #39
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    Hey Thelma,

    I too have a 80mm stem with a zero-offset saddle. It places me perfectly on the bike.

    I'm glad to hear you are enjoying your SL.

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