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  1. #51
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    Hi everybody, I bought this '99 Uzzi SL frame or better I guess it is a '99 frame.
    If your guys could look at it and confirm, would be great. I'm already buying a 130mm fork and want to build it up over the winter. Cubo
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Man that was Intense.-uzzi-sl-99.jpg  


  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE, View Post
    Nice rides Herb! Two
    So you sold them to Dougal who was recently asking for specs on the SLX?
    I love my SL but looking back I wish I had gone with the SLX. I think that bike can hang even by today's standards, don't you?

    Sold the red small 03 to deegals wife a few years ago after i found the grey med 02 replace it with. Rode the 02 for three odd years, beat the crap out of it and loved riding it till i had a go on a mates Gt sanction. Now i have a sanction and a short travel force.
    You could play around with the angles but the seat tube was to slack and the bb was to high for me with the 36s on it. Tried some 32s on it which lowered the bb and brought the seat tube to where i liked it but they just held the rest of the bike back when it got lumpy.
    So i do think with the new school geos that are popping up they are becoming a wee bit dated. But then i was every tempted to buy back the 02 when it came up for sale.

  3. #53
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    Looks like a great frame man, can't wait to see pics of it getting build up.
    Live fast, Die young, Leave a good looking corpse!

  4. #54
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    Rejuvinated SLX

    2001/2002 med SLX hopped up on rejuvination: I'm not one for dw links or vpp. 4 bar is better for the north shore.

    Took my "old" four bar intense and modded a couple of things that have been bugging me for a while. Made it into a new ride with geometry similar to the small sx trail frame for 09/10. Only difference is that the seat tube is interrupted and the BB is about 20mm higher. Not bad for an old lady.
    Man that was Intense.-img_4510.jpg

    Long chainstays always bugged me so I bought a drill press and a 10mm tap and went to work adding a third shorter chainstay position. Horst link bearing washers needed fitting and 180mm rotor is necessary but it feels so much better!
    Man that was Intense.-img_2423.jpg
    Man that was Intense.-img_2427.jpg

    Crappy contaminated shock bushings also bugged me; RWC needle roller bearings are a must. 6mm hardware wasn't cutting it though so again with the drill press and tap: 8mm hardware makes it good now. RWC needle bearings are nice. Rear suspension is unbelievably active now. 4 bar rules!
    Man that was Intense.-img_4512.jpg
    Man that was Intense.-img_2424.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Man that was Intense.-img_2426.jpg  


  5. #55
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    Some things don't get older, they just get meaner.
    Here ya go:

    Breathing new life into an old school Uzzi
    Last edited by roxtar; 10-24-2011 at 07:23 AM.
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  6. #56
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    OK, here's the thread I X-posted to above:

    I've loved the Uzzi SL since I first laid eyes on one.
    Several years ago I came on a chance to pick up a frameset on the cheap.
    I built it up as an AM ride, swapping in an inverted SLX shock link and longer Manitou Swinger Air mated to a Nixon for 5" F&R traveland rode it for a year or two:



    I decided it was due for a makeover so it was stipped down and sent to the powdercoater:




    A riding bud does die cut stickers and made me some sweet silver flake decals




    The Dude Abides:

    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  7. #57
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    Rode it for a year and decided it was time to upgrade the performance as well.
    I started by adding a Fox 36 Vanilla160 and did some measuring and plugged the numbers into the CAD to see the best way to get the rear to match the Fox's performance. A lot of trial and error finally led me to the best compromise. A 7.88 X 2.25 Fox DHX 3.0 mated to 6" links will net me a little over 6" of buttery smooth travel. A near perfect match for the front end.
    Headtube angle will be right at 67* with the ability to go up or down, depending on the rear shock lower mount choice.




    And here are the links:




    Time to fire up the Bridgeport






    Little hiccup; the Uzzi seat tower is too narrow for a modern coil shock. Had to mill out the inside rail and then box in the outside of it to gain back the lost strength. (yes, I've seen far better TIG work too, and no, I didn't weld it )
    Anyway, all assembled and initial backyard test ride has me very excited.
    Back end is extremely plush and seems to be a seamless match to the front.








    2.5 Minion is a tight fit:





    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  8. #58
    Front Range, Colorado
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    Anybody else have an older INTENSE still in use? Care to share?

  9. #59
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    I'm finally getting around to building up the old Tracer frame I picked up. I'm taking frame apart to clean, lots of sand everywhere. What can I use to clean and then lube pivot points? There are no bearings but some orange "plastic" bushings. Also, can I just force the bushings out of their respective locations? Will I have a hard time putting them back in?

  10. #60
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    Do you have any pictures? I thought all of the old tracer frames had bearings at all of the pivots.
    Live fast, Die young, Leave a good looking corpse!

  11. #61
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    No pics but if you look at Akrull's 1st pic of his Uzzi SLX you can see them in the black rocker arm. I removed most of the sand and dirt and saw that there are bearings in there, embedded in the orange bushings. They are Enduro brand bearings P/N 608LLBMAX. I found another thread on here (MTBR) that had a link to online vendor for these bearings at $3 a piece, not bad. The bearing pulled/press tool set is over $200 though. I need to do more research to find better (read cheaper) way to pull and replace bearings. Thanks for reply.

  12. #62
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    Usually guys will manufacture bearing pullers and presses using sockets, long screws, nuts and washers. You can use the old bearing to help push the new one in. I haven't ever done this on an old intense but I have done it on an ellsworth and they should be pretty similar. The bearing is probably sitting against a shoulder, so make sure you pull them out and don't try to push them through. Hopefully someone with more experience with this frame will pipe up or maybe try in the Tool Time forum.
    Live fast, Die young, Leave a good looking corpse!

  13. #63
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    Are you talking about the bushings between the rear shock and the rocker arm?
    Live fast, Die young, Leave a good looking corpse!

  14. #64
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    Ummm, are there supposed to be bushings between rear shock and rocker arm? I bought frame for $100 with Fox rear shock. I'm not sure what parts have bushings and what parts have bearings. I'll take some pics tomorrow and post. I don't want to hijack this thread but there are so many knowledgeable folks on here. Maybe I'll start new thread and come back here to post link. Thanks for all the help.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Man that was Intense.-sn853259.jpg  

    Man that was Intense.-sn853265.jpg  

    Man that was Intense.-sn853270.jpg  

    Man that was Intense.-sn853274.jpg  

    Man that was Intense.-sn853278.jpg  

    Last edited by pomocanthus; 11-16-2011 at 09:02 PM.

  15. #65
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    I wanted to keep it here because of all the experts with older models. Can you guys comment on the bolts holding the rear shock in place. I know they aren't original. The bolts go through the aluminum mounting hardware (some call them bushings) attached to the rear shock. There is some play so I'll be looking for better fitting bolts. Should I lube between the bolt and the bore hole through the mounting hardware or can I line it with thin Teflon sheets that I have. Also, should there be washers between the backside of the pan head bolts and the bearings/orange bushings?

    Note that I took the bike apart to clean off all grease and sand/dirt. I put back together loosely to take pics. That's why all bolts seem to be sticking out.
    Last edited by pomocanthus; 11-16-2011 at 09:29 PM. Reason: additional clarifying comments

  16. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by pomocanthus View Post
    I wanted to keep it here because of all the experts with older models. Can you guys comment on the bolts holding the rear shock in place. I know they aren't original. The bolts go through the aluminum mounting hardware (some call them bushings) attached to the rear shock. There is some play so I'll be looking for better fitting bolts.
    It looks like they are pretty wallowed out. You may have to drill out the holes to the next size bolt. If it's not too bad you can get away with only going to 1/4" (the OEM is 6mm). Also, swap all bolts to Allen heads (It's an Intense, not a Huffy ) and definitely use washers on all your bolts (with the exception listed below).

    Quote Originally Posted by pomocanthus View Post
    Should I lube between the bolt and the bore hole through the mounting hardware or can I line it with thin Teflon sheets that I have.
    I think you're talking about the bottom shock mount bolt, right?
    If so, that bolt should tighten hard on the shock mount shaft with no movement. You want that bolt to turn the link/shaft/link into one solid, unmoving part.
    The shock rotates on that shaft. The shaft doesn't move in the shock links.

    Quote Originally Posted by pomocanthus View Post
    Also, should there be washers between the backside of the pan head bolts and the bearings/orange bushings?
    No, the bolts tighten directly on the bearings with no washers. There should be small spacers on the other side; between the bearings and the seat stay & frame.
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  17. #67
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    I have to believe that the slop you feel between the bolt and the shock spacers is due to the bolt being the wrong size rather then the spacers being warn out. Since the guy clearly didn't know what he was doing when he used a hex head bolt. If you think the spacers are bad though then you can replace them, they shouldn't be that hard to come by and you can do like Arkrull did and replace them with a RWC needle bearing kit. I think this is the page you need. Intense Suspension Pivot Bearing Kits from RWC but I would email RWC or talk to Arkrull before I ordered something blind. Of course I don't own a drill press so I am more likely to replace parts then try and manufacture my own.

    The other two holes in your link are mounting options that slightly change the geometry and travel of the bike. There is a post here somewhere that explains what the different holes are for the tracer but I have longs since loss the link. So once you have a allen head bolt you could see if one of the other two mountain options worked better for you. If you want to use the one you are using now you might be able to get away with putting a washer underneath the bolt to spread the load over the damaged area a bit.
    The orange cover you see on the bearings is actually a seal, and if you pry at them gently with a razor or exacto knife you can pry them off and refill the bearing with grease. If they roll smooth now though it is unnecessary but good to know for future reference.

    These are the bushings I thought you were talking about, they can wear out and cause some slope but it is sort of rare. If they are warn out then most or all of the red covering would be gone. The good news is your local bike shop should be able to replace them easily and it shouldn't cost too much money. Keep asking these questions and feel free to start a new thread. I guarantee you lots of folks have experience with older tracers that don't check this thread. Also you can just make it a "building and old tracer" thread and ask questions as you go. Can't wait to see the finished product.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Man that was Intense.-bushing.jpg  

    Live fast, Die young, Leave a good looking corpse!

  18. #68
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    Hi!

    I think the rear end of your Tracer is not in the condition it used to be. In the picture below it looks like the chainstay part are mounted upside down - you should read the USA sign from above and the bolt should be attached from the left side...


  19. #69
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    Thanks Roxtar and Bridgestone for all the good info. I promise there will be no hex bolt within a mile of this bike when finished. I am having trouble finding the right pan head bolt locally but I am sure I can find it somewhere online. The bushing on the bottom of the rear shock is worn; I can barely see a hint of orange\red. I'm gonna line it with thin sheet of Teflon temporarily. Nordstadt, good eye on chain stay. I wasn't sure but now I know ... USA up. Thanks again guys for all the help. I originally picked up this frame cause I was curious about Intense bicycles but wasn't gonna spend too much time or resources. But now I'm gonna take my time and do it right, if nothing else then out of respect for the brand. My current ride is a Kona Tanuki DL but maybe when I'm done with this Tracer, it will convince me to get a Tracer 2 or an Uzzi.

  20. #70
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    Great looking rides

  21. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by pomocanthus View Post
    Thanks Roxtar and Bridgestone for all the good info. I promise there will be no hex bolt within a mile of this bike when finished. I am having trouble finding the right pan head bolt locally but I am sure I can find it somewhere online. The bushing on the bottom of the rear shock is worn; I can barely see a hint of orange\red. I'm gonna line it with thin sheet of Teflon temporarily. Nordstadt, good eye on chain stay. I wasn't sure but now I know ... USA up. Thanks again guys for all the help. I originally picked up this frame cause I was curious about Intense bicycles but wasn't gonna spend too much time or resources. But now I'm gonna take my time and do it right, if nothing else then out of respect for the brand. My current ride is a Kona Tanuki DL but maybe when I'm done with this Tracer, it will convince me to get a Tracer 2 or an Uzzi.
    The bushings are available at any bearing house for under $5 each. They're called DU bushings and for Fox shocks they're a 1/2" ID X 1/2" wide. Also, pretty much any bolt you need (and the DU bushings) are avail at McMaster Carr:

    McMaster-Carr
    McMaster-Carr

    One thing to be aware of; Intense uses a mixture of metric and standard sized bolts. Everything that mates up to bike parts is metric, frame bolts are often standard.
    For instance, the four button head shock link bolts are most likely 5/16-18 thread.
    Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner.
    Liberty is a well armed sheep, contesting the vote.

  22. #72
    Front Range, Colorado
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nescafe View Post
    Great looking rides
    Where? 24 posts up.

    Just kidding! lets get back on topic.
    Vintage INTENSE are there anymore out there. I love checking them out. Care to share with us?
    BTW great info. on the pivots,bearings and bushings. $3.00 each really? Not bad actually.
    Last edited by DIRTJUNKIE; 11-18-2011 at 08:10 PM.

  23. #73
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    Good job!

    What do ya'll think about a 2005 Marzocchi Drop Off Triple Fork on there? Is that way too much travel (170mm) for the frame? It looks kinda bad@$$ in my opinion but not sure how it'll ride. (I'm still waiting to get proper sized bolts so everything is still on loosely)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Man that was Intense.-sn853284.jpg  

    Man that was Intense.-sn853285.jpg  

    Man that was Intense.-sn853286.jpg  


  24. #74
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    ^ Ditch that fork. Brother had one on his 2005 Stinky and it's a POS.

  25. #75
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    Really? I've seen reviews both ways and it seems like it just takes a lot of tweaking. I guess that's why buddy gave it to me for a beer.

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