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  1. #1
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    Official Cup/Cone Pivot Bolt Removal Thread

    Need to get lower link off. It's a 2010 951 but has been upgraded to the new style "cup/cone" bolt I guess it's called.

    I found some posts on removal but doesn't explain it clearly. I know It's easy and will take just a second, just never done it and don't see how it works, don't wanna f@#k anything up as that bolt is like $40 online!

    I've removed the silver Allen bolt, just not sure what to do next. Do you tap out the other side through the middle?

    Thx!
    Last edited by DiscoDust; 10-19-2012 at 02:22 AM. Reason: Change title
    Quote Originally Posted by darkslide18
    I drink a Mountain Dew Monster energy cocktail while doing lines of cocaine while setting my hinter regions on fire.

  2. #2
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    50 views and not one reply?

    So either this bolt is one of the greatest mysteries of the world OR I'm the biggest Jackass in the world and I'm the only one who doesn't know how to properly remove it. Don't mind being labeled the latter as long as someone chimes in and shows me the correct way to remove it, lol.

    Included some pics to help illustrate dilemma w/said bolt...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Lower Link Bolt Removal?-2012-10-13_14-56-58_742.jpg  

    Attached Images Attached Images    
    Quote Originally Posted by darkslide18
    I drink a Mountain Dew Monster energy cocktail while doing lines of cocaine while setting my hinter regions on fire.

  3. #3
    mda
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    I need to do the same thing on a Tracer 2 so Googled it yesterday:
    Intense M9 Cup and Cone Pivot Removal
    Haven't actually done this yet but I'm assuming the cone reffered to is removed by tapping it out from the opposite side, maybe with a long bolt.

  4. #4
    mda
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    To get the cones out I used a 75mm M6 bolt screwed in from the opposite side which pushed against the head of a 20mm M3 bolt held in place with mole grips.

  5. #5
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    Wink

    Got it out and of course now that I see how it works it's a no-brainer, but just in case one of the 100's that viewed this and didn't respond didn't know the answer either, i'm gonna' give a bit more detailed instruction and pics in case this helps even one other person out. Plus i'm OCD so I have to, lol.

    Step 1 - Remove silver Allen Bolt in center of "Cone" on left side.

    Step 2 - Remove "Cone" on left side. The cone adds pressure to stop Main Bolt from "backing out" as they apparently did w/their previous bolt systems. You can use "MDA's" approach and use a the long 75mm M6 bolt threaded from opposite right side to push against the 20mm M6 bolt inserted in the cone backwards. The only thing I was confused on is how it applied pressure to the cone since it wasn't threaded. What I'd like to add is that you need to hook the corner of the M6 bolt against the inside lip of the cone to achieve the contact point to pop it out w/the long bolt (correct me if i'm wrong) (pic 1).

    Or you can also use a small screwdriver as we did (pic 2). Just apply pressure to all sides of the cone equally a little at a time and it will pop out in two seconds, but "MDA's" method is prob the right way.

    Step 3 - Remove Main Bolt. Although I did see threads on the bolt in the pics of the bolt on The Net (pic 3), I still couldn't understand how you unscrewed it... well, no one mentioned there is a secondary "hex" underneath the silver Allen Bolt that you can access after you remove it (pic 4). So just stick your hex key in there and unscrew the Main Bolt from the left side.

    And Viola, you're done. Now you see how easy it is and feel like an idiot like me for even having to ask this question on the forums!

    Also, if you're going to take the bearings out as I needed to I just heated the aluminum around the bearing a bit w/a heat gun, gave a few taps w/a "punch" on all four sides of the bearing and it popped right out like butter. Tapped the other one with a socket a couple times and it popped right out as well. Read some post about it being hard to get out and the guy whacking the **** out of it but mine was easy as pie w/that method unless there are different frame/bearing tolerances or the heat made the difference.

    There ya' go, the longest write up ever about a single bolt, lol. I've seen it asked a few times on The Net so I hope this helps someone else and the questions about Intense Cup/Cone Pivot Bolts are a thing of the past.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Lower Link Bolt Removal?-2012-10-19_02-13-19_921-large-.jpg  

    Lower Link Bolt Removal?-2012-10-19_02-15-54_229-large-.jpg  

    Lower Link Bolt Removal?-2012-10-19_02-08-58_984-large-.jpg  

    Lower Link Bolt Removal?-2012-10-19_02-09-19_387-large-.jpg  

    Quote Originally Posted by darkslide18
    I drink a Mountain Dew Monster energy cocktail while doing lines of cocaine while setting my hinter regions on fire.

  6. #6
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    Hey guys, I'm in the middle of trying to do this too, and can't get that dumb cone out. I've read the above posts, but I'm not quite getting how either approach (screw driver, or long bolt) works. The cone appears to sit flush against the 8mm bolt head (or whatever is immediately behind the cone) and therefore I'm not getting my flat head screwdriver to 'catch' on any lip to pop the thing out. The screwdriver just wants to scratch / gouge the sides of the cone, as I can't get in behind the back to get any pop. Does that make sense?

    And if you did the bolt and smaller bolt trick, how would you get the bolt head in behind the cone to pop it out?

  7. #7
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    I see what you're saying but seemed like there was a little space behind mine to get a screwdriver in or use the bolt technique.

    Hmmmm? Maybe a REALLY small screwdriver could catch the inside edge to pry it out a hair to get a bigger one in or use the bolt?

    Maybe a pic?
    Quote Originally Posted by darkslide18
    I drink a Mountain Dew Monster energy cocktail while doing lines of cocaine while setting my hinter regions on fire.

  8. #8
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    Hi all. It's called a locking collet. The cone shaped piece is called the collet head. The outer bolt drives the wedge in, expanding the axle preventing it from backng out. Many times these are assmbled with no grease and the collet head gets stuck in the axle. Santa Cruz learned this and now their collet heads have hex sockets so they can be popped out that way. The best way I've found for removing the ones not equipped with a hex socket (as is the case with my 2011 tracer 2) is by hitting the link with a plastic mallet. Hard, The vibration will ususally allow the collet head to pop out. Look out though, often times they'll shoot out with force, so wear eye protection. In stubborn cases I've used a drift through the opposite side of the axle to pop out the collet head, which is sort of what is being described above.

  9. #9
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    Any place on the link that's idea for whackin? I'm just assuming a few good hard whacks to the bottom should do the trick?

    I can't believe I have to beat the $hi^% out of a $2000 frame to do routine maintenance! I'll give it a try but that cone seems to be really stuck in there

  10. #10
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    Man, I am so close to giving up on this stupid thing. I think that stupid cone must be seized in there or something, and I've practically mangled the thing trying to get it out. I've tried beating the f&^% out of the lower link with a rubber mallet and it never popped out. screwdriver did nothing but mar the thing.

    I'd be willing to try the reverse screw idea but I really don't get how it would work. The way it's described the small screw head needs to get in behind the back of the cone to push it out. But how can that happen when the back of the cone sits flush against the through-bolt (or whatever it is)? Or does the screw not need to get behind the cone? I was thinking maybe if the screw sits inside the cone cockeyed that when the bolt pushes against it the top and bottom of the small screw would 'catch' against the sides of the cone? I don't know.... that just seems like the small screw would just slide and get pushed out without bringing the cone along with it...

    What about a heat gun? I'm at the point where I feel like I'm going to have to drill that POS out of there! I hate this design!! /rant

  11. #11
    mda
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    My post #4 shows the type of small screw required. The key thing is to use one with a flat head and my picture shows the exact bolt that I used. The back of the cone does not sit flush with the head of the main pivot bolt (at least it didn't on mine). As DisoDust explained, "you need to hook the corner of the M6 bolt against the inside lip of the cone to achieve the contact point to pop it out w/the long bolt". Hold the small bolt in place with mole grips or wedge it in with another bolt. The cone popped out fairly easily once the end of the M6 bolt met the head of the M3 bolt. If it still refuses to come out, try backing off the M6 boIt, moving the position of the small bolt to the opposite side of the cone and then try again.

    The design works very well in terms of getting exactly the right level of preload on the bearings but we could really have done with some decent instructions from Intense.

  12. #12
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    Ya, mine and "mda's" seemed to have a space behind the cone to "catch". Heat definitely seemed to work w/my bearings. Like I said, I read about bearings being hard to remove but after the heat they popped out w/two taps so maybe that might help on the cone? Weird that it is sitting flush?

    Also, email Sam@intensecycles. He is on here and has been very helpful w/me and my stupid questions, lol, I'm sure he wouldn't mind helping.
    Quote Originally Posted by darkslide18
    I drink a Mountain Dew Monster energy cocktail while doing lines of cocaine while setting my hinter regions on fire.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by mda View Post
    I need to do the same thing on a Tracer 2 so Googled it yesterday:
    Intense M9 Cup and Cone Pivot Removal
    Yep I was going to suggest that it is threaded but I guess that someone else already found my thread about it.
    2012 Intense M9
    2012 Pivot Mach 5.7 Carbon
    2008 Look 595
    2007 Custom Litespeed Sewanee

  14. #14
    187
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    Is there a special tool that can be acquired to remove the cone? What a remarkable pain in the ass.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by 187 View Post
    Is there a special tool that can be acquired to remove the cone? What a remarkable pain in the ass.
    No, you just need to use an M6 bolt (like the one you removed). Stick the head into the opening on the collet and hit the shaft of the bolt with a mallet sideways to pop it loose. You might have to whack it pretty hard because if its dry it might be stuck. Once it's out remember to grease it well before you re-insert it.

  16. #16
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    Ya, it'll come out. Think a small screwdriver finally popped it out for me.
    Quote Originally Posted by darkslide18
    I drink a Mountain Dew Monster energy cocktail while doing lines of cocaine while setting my hinter regions on fire.

  17. #17
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    I used an allen wrench wrapped with a thin rag. Popped it out with some torque. Can't be gentle with it.

  18. #18
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    Thanks for starting this thread Disco. I had a little play in the swing arm and I felt like such an idiot trying to figure this out the other day. Finally checked on here. Now my bike is tight like a Tiger.

    (I did what smithrider did, put an 8mm allen in there and popped them right out)

  19. #19
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    Lol, no sweat.

    I'm pretty mechanically inclined but just couldn't figure it out and there wasn't a whole lot of info on The Net. It's one of those things that you do once then you realize how simple it was. Pivot maintenance is pretty common so i'm glad there is some instruction on this quirky system for those in need. I'm glad it helped someone... now I don't feel like such an Idiot
    Quote Originally Posted by darkslide18
    I drink a Mountain Dew Monster energy cocktail while doing lines of cocaine while setting my hinter regions on fire.

  20. #20
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    The new cones, as spare parts, are now threaded in the hole. After taking out the 20mm M6, just screw a M8 in and it will be very easy to take the cone out.
    I threaded the original cones in my Tracer2 before buying two new cones as spare parts and I was very surprised to see that at Intense adopted same solution eventually.

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