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  1. #1
    pb2
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    Long and painfull 6.6 short cut

    Here is a cautionary note to all new 6.6 owners regarding cable routing, today I started to assemble my new 6.6. I wanted to run the cables through the link as shown on the orange Intense 6.6 and also on Cowboys bike. As all the parts are new, I wanted to avoid spliting the rear brake hose from the body so the link has to come out

    The suspension link comes out relatively easy, ditto the DHX shock, cables installed and my mind is racing ahead to a test ride however getting the link back in was a nightmare

    I could get any three of the four link bolts in, it did not matter which three or which position, I swapped bolts and spacer washers but each time the last hole was about two mm out, I tried everything but all it did was start to damage the leading thread. After over two hours of rising frustration I enrolled a friend and with a lever through the hole in the link we forced it in position and got a few threads engaged and bit by bit each bolt was worked tight.

    With the benefit of hindsight I should just have split the hose from the brake body and threaded it through, saving myself loads of pain and almost a returned frame.

    It was impossible to work out what was causing the distortion but distorted it is and it makes refitting the DHX difficult too.

    So take my advice, split the cable and save your self the pain of removing the link
    Last edited by yespsb; 12-26-2005 at 02:16 PM.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by yespsb
    Here is a cautionary note to all new 6.6 owners regarding cable routing, today I started to assemble my new 6.6. I wanted to run the cables through the link as shown on the orange Intense 6.6 and also on Cowboys bike. As all the parts are new, I wanted to avoid spliting the rear brake hose from the body so the link has to come out

    The suspension link comes out relatively easy, ditto the DHX shock, cables installed and my mind is racing ahead to a test ride however getting the link back in was a nightmare

    I could get any three of the four link bolts in, it did not matter which three or which position, I swapped bolts and spacer washers but each time the last hole was about two mm out, I tried everything but all it did was start to damage the leading thread. After over two hours of rising frustration I enrolled a friend and with a lever through the hole in the link we forced it in position and got a few threads engaged and bit by bit each bolt was worked tight.

    With the benefit of hindsight I should just have split the hose from the brake body and threaded it through, saving myself loads of pain and almost a returned frame.

    It was impossible to work out what was causing the distortion but distorted it is and it makes refitting the DHX difficult too.

    So take my advice, split the cable and save your self the pain of removing the link

    I had the same problem with the VPX, I had too use a 2x4 in the rear swingarm to line up the last hole. I sure hope the new 6.6 dosnt do this!
    Yamaha & Paiste, weapons of mass percussion

  3. #3
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    Am I getting this right? You are saying that 2000 $ frames aren't aligned perfect? This means Intense hasn't done their job right or am I wrong?

  4. #4
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    Hmmmm, I did the same action when setting up my large VPX but had absolutely no problem reinserting the bolt(s). You must have moved the rear triangle when messing with things. Was your rear wheel removed when you disassembled the link? The weight of the rear wheel assembly could apply a twisting moment to the rear triangle. Many times these close tolerance assemblies require a drift punch to get the alignment just right. Did you hear a clunk when removing the bolts? If the frame was assembled at the factory and everything torqued with a distorted / twisted frame alignment you would have felt a "clunk" when removing the bolts when the alignment snapped back to it's "twisted" shape.

    Just an observation here, but I notice everyone who buys a bike, no matter how expensive, has absolutely no hesitation at ripping into the mechanics of disassembly. Then when something doesn't seem right upon re-assembly it must be a quality issue with the manufacturer. Listen fellas; "some" mechanical actions require a little experience with "how things work". Nuthin' personal, but I've got many hours with cresent wrenches, ratchets and hammers and some mechanical relationships are still a b!tch for me. I can only guess how these issues effect a guy with more QWERTY ability than mechanical aptitude.
    Everybody dies, but not everyone lives

  5. #5
    aka...appBLING72
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbikerx
    Hmmmm, I did the same action when setting up my large VPX but had absolutely no problem reinserting the bolt(s). You must have moved the rear triangle when messing with things. Was your rear wheel removed when you disassembled the link? The weight of the rear wheel assembly could apply a twisting moment to the rear triangle. Many times these close tolerance assemblies require a drift punch to get the alignment just right. Did you hear a clunk when removing the bolts? If the frame was assembled at the factory and everything torqued with a distorted / twisted frame alignment you would have felt a "clunk" when removing the bolts when the alignment snapped back to it's "twisted" shape.

    Just an observation here, but I notice everyone who buys a bike, no matter how expensive, has absolutely no hesitation at ripping into the mechanics of disassembly. Then when something doesn't seem right upon re-assembly it must be a quality issue with the manufacturer. Listen fellas; "some" mechanical actions require a little experience with "how things work". Nuthin' personal, but I've got many hours with cresent wrenches, ratchets and hammers and some mechanical relationships are still a b!tch for me. I can only guess how these issues effect a guy with more QWERTY ability than mechanical aptitude.
    I'm with bikerX here. Intense has special assembly tools, as do every other manufacturer has that we don't have or need for proper assembly. I had the same problem with a VP Free. Called Santa Cruz and they told me how they go about assembling frames and I didn't have a clue of what was involved. Anyway, all that to say unless you are sure of what you're doing and have the PROPER tools, not 2x4's, don't screw with it! Take it to your LBS, or send it back and they will eat the cost if something is messed up, not you.

    I just disconnected my brake line, ran it through, and rebled it. Simple and painless. I was however installing Goodridge hoses, so it made sense for me not to disassemble the link from the frame. Good Luck!!
    Last edited by aappling72; 12-26-2005 at 08:15 PM.

  6. #6
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    I doubt that a LBS has disassambled more frames than the average gifted, longtime rider. Because they just send them to the manufacturer when they get them from you. Not messing with it. And that means waiting, waiting.....
    In my experience cheap frames do not realign perfect, but I never had the problem with high end stuff. So if it "snaps" apart after removing the bolts it is pretty sure not perfectly aligned.

  7. #7
    rain rain go away...
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    I did the same link removable to route my brake line under and didn't have any issues w/ poppoing those bolts in. using 2x4 is NOT acceptable in my dictionary... maybe like someone suggested, the rear triangle is tilted to one side. Were the rear wheel removed coz that by itself makes it 10 times easier for the links/bolts to come together. i would never force it w/ any lever, that's just looking for trouble later on... find out what it is and deal w/ it.

  8. #8
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    Alright guy's, Im not gonna release any steam here or unload on ya, BUT, Ive been wrenching on cars, all types of bikes including many makes of dirtbikes before some of you left your diapers. Give me a break here, Im not some yoyo with a four foot 1/2" drive braker bar. I have the propper tools. The bolts came out fine. The problem was the link beit from the rear or the front, was twisted. It only took just a millimeter or so to do it and its out of whack enough to not be able to get the soft AL machined bolts into the link. The tolerences are very tight. The only way was to apply pressure on the main triangle and tweeking the rear just enough to align the rear to the link. The suspension seemed to cycle fine. Also the frame was brand new out of the box, no way for me to bend it. Perhaps you guys dont know this, again, Ive been in the industry going back to Intense's early years, they have always had some alignment complaints here and there, its never stopped me from buying a frame. A 6.6 is on its way. If it was bad enough I would have taken it back to Intense. Ive seen bikes with way more alignment issues than this, Ive even had a 5 Spot that was real bad, Turner was very good about replacing the rear stays.

    While were at it, this is one of those frames that had a 5th Element rear shock that could slide from side to side on the rear shock eye bolt about 3-5mm's either side. Spacers were milled to short I guess
    Last edited by drumstix; 12-26-2005 at 11:23 PM.
    Yamaha & Paiste, weapons of mass percussion

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by yespsb
    Here is a cautionary note to all new 6.6 owners regarding cable routing, today I started to assemble my new 6.6. I wanted to run the cables through the link as shown on the orange Intense 6.6 and also on Cowboys bike. As all the parts are new, I wanted to avoid spliting the rear brake hose from the body so the link has to come out

    The suspension link comes out relatively easy, ditto the DHX shock, cables installed and my mind is racing ahead to a test ride however getting the link back in was a nightmare

    I could get any three of the four link bolts in, it did not matter which three or which position, I swapped bolts and spacer washers but each time the last hole was about two mm out, I tried everything but all it did was start to damage the leading thread. After over two hours of rising frustration I enrolled a friend and with a lever through the hole in the link we forced it in position and got a few threads engaged and bit by bit each bolt was worked tight.

    With the benefit of hindsight I should just have split the hose from the brake body and threaded it through, saving myself loads of pain and almost a returned frame.

    It was impossible to work out what was causing the distortion but distorted it is and it makes refitting the DHX difficult too.

    So take my advice, split the cable and save your self the pain of removing the link
    Man I ran into the same problem with my 6.6. I assembled my buddies by removing the two upper bolts, ran the brake line through the linkage and reinstalled those two bolts...buttery smooth, no problems. I tried the same on my 6.6, and had to loosen all four bolts slightly, after trying it the same way. My guess is that Intense does indeed have special tools to get the job done. Look at it this way, if they're that difficcult to reassemble it must be a pretty tight fit, so the chances of it working loose are pretty slim. I am building up another 6.6 later today, rest assured I WILL DISCONNECT THE BRAKE LINE this time.

  10. #10
    pb2
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    Everyone is entitled an opinion

    Guys just like Drumstix I have been hands on for more years than I care to mention. In the UK where I live, I hold a Chief Engineers qualification and I spent 15 years doing trouble shooting engineering all over the world for various oil companies before getting sick of the long hours, travel,harsh working conditions and missing my kids grow up .

    Now I am not claiming the 15 years makes me a MTB wrench expert but neither I am some spotty kid chancing things.

    The long and short of it is simple, on my large 6.6 frame there is a small amount of distortion and thats why I offered the advice on not removing the link. Yes it is disappointing on a brand new frame costing this much but its not the end of the world and the real test will be how it rides and how durable it is and I do not expected to be disapppointed on this score.

    Hopefully I will be joining the CCDB club in the weeks ahead and I'm really looking forward to getting some 6.6 miles under my belt

  11. #11
    aka...appBLING72
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    Quote Originally Posted by yespsb
    Guys just like Drumstix I have been hands on for more years than I care to mention. In the UK where I live, I hold a Chief Engineers qualification and I spent 15 years doing trouble shooting engineering all over the world for various oil companies before getting sick of the long hours, travel,harsh working conditions and missing my kids grow up .

    Now I am not claiming the 15 years makes me a MTB wrench expert but neither I am some spotty kid chancing things.

    The long and short of it is simple, on my large 6.6 frame there is a small amount of distortion and thats why I offered the advice on not removing the link. Yes it is disappointing on a brand new frame costing this much but its not the end of the world and the real test will be how it rides and how durable it is and I do not expected to be disapppointed on this score.

    Hopefully I will be joining the CCDB club in the weeks ahead and I'm really looking forward to getting some 6.6 miles under my belt
    Totally understand man. I wasn't trying to negate anyone's ability, I just know how many nights I've been in the garage with my hands up in the air wondering where I screwed up. Trial and error I have learned alot. One of those things being to get right tools to do the job. I am building my specialty tools up little by little, but that really stinks that your frame would be out of align. Hopefully it doesn't affect longterm performance.

    As for the CCDB club. When you get it let me know. Call and talk to Malcolm and tell him I said Hello. You will love it man, the sooner you get it the better the riding experience.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by yespsb
    Here is a cautionary note to all new 6.6 owners regarding cable routing, today I started to assemble my new 6.6. I wanted to run the cables through the link as shown on the orange Intense 6.6 and also on Cowboys bike. As all the parts are new, I wanted to avoid spliting the rear brake hose from the body so the link has to come out

    The suspension link comes out relatively easy, ditto the DHX shock, cables installed and my mind is racing ahead to a test ride however getting the link back in was a nightmare

    I could get any three of the four link bolts in, it did not matter which three or which position, I swapped bolts and spacer washers but each time the last hole was about two mm out, I tried everything but all it did was start to damage the leading thread. After over two hours of rising frustration I enrolled a friend and with a lever through the hole in the link we forced it in position and got a few threads engaged and bit by bit each bolt was worked tight.

    With the benefit of hindsight I should just have split the hose from the brake body and threaded it through, saving myself loads of pain and almost a returned frame.

    It was impossible to work out what was causing the distortion but distorted it is and it makes refitting the DHX difficult too.

    So take my advice, split the cable and save your self the pain of removing the link
    My friend had the same exact problem. This is a very valid warning!!! Luckily at the last minute I had the bike shop assemble my 6.6 otherwise I would have killed myself after running into this problem. I would have always felt the bike was flawed even after getting the bolts back in.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by nilsm
    My friend had the same exact problem. This is a very valid warning!!! Luckily at the last minute I had the bike shop assemble my 6.6 otherwise I would have killed myself after running into this problem. I would have always felt the bike was flawed even after getting the bolts back in.
    Well that doesn't sound the greatest, I mean a frame of that price, supposedly "quality made in the USA" and many reports of frame alignment problems... I don't think I'd "kill" myself but I sure would be really really unhappy about it and I would for sure notice it because I regularly unbuild my bike for maintenance...

  14. #14
    rain rain go away...
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    I just replaced all my pivot bearings. all the bolts came out and back in w/o a single hitch. shock/rear end was bang-on aligned!

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