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  1. #1
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    LG1 not so good on SS

    Has anyone else found it stupid that on the SS, the lower roller / retainer of the LG1 sits well below the Taco bash guard making it very exposed to damage ?

    It look like the MRP guide works much better on the SS as the taco protects everthing. If the tabs were welded more clockwise - we could rotate the lower roller more out of harms way but we cant.

    Also - my LG1 is really really noisy. It's set up perfect but the plastic is really hard and so the chain rattles around in the upper guide and makes a real racket. Anyone found a solution to this?

  2. #2
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    cut a slice of a rubber tube and put outside the connection of the two half of the high guide. Less noise for sure!

  3. #3
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    There is another thread about the suitability of the LG1 on a SS. Just search for that (or get a MRP or E13 SRS).

  4. #4
    mamadirt
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    Anyone running an LG1 on a Tazer VP? Tempted but maybe the G2 would be a better bet.
    Welcome to the Hotel California . . .

  5. #5
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    Just put one on mine last week- I run a road cassette so I'm sure that my noise is less pronounced due to the chain not running on a taller cog and causing more rub higher in the upper plate. There is definitely a bit of noise- but it's WAY less noise than what my old Transition Chainguide had.
    Don't drink it

  6. #6
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    Are you using the wide angle plate LG1? That will give you more clearance to clock the boomerang better. Give e13 a call if you're not sure and they'll help ya out.

    This is what a wide one looks like on a socom but it'd be similar on your SS


  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtb_biker
    Are you using the wide angle plate LG1? That will give you more clearance to clock the boomerang better. Give e13 a call if you're not sure and they'll help ya out.

    This is what a wide one looks like on a socom but it'd be similar on your SS

    How can I tell which plate I have?

    Having seen the LG1 mounted on other SS's, they all seem to be the same as mine (lower roller exposed). If you look at any of the SS pic threads you'll see what I mean.
    I think the tabs are welded a few degrees anti-clockwise from where they are on the Socom.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by gravityfreaky
    How can I tell which plate I have?

    Having seen the LG1 mounted on other SS's, they all seem to be the same as mine (lower roller exposed). If you look at any of the SS pic threads you'll see what I mean.
    I think the tabs are welded a few degrees anti-clockwise from where they are on the Socom.
    Easiest way to tell would be if you still had the box it came in, it says on there. You can also send e13 an email (support@e13components.com) and I'm sure they'd be able to tell you better. I'd be willing to bet you do not have the wide backplate (along with most other SS guys).

  9. #9
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    Thanks - I do have the box still so will check it out.

  10. #10
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    i started a thread a while about with the same issue. my lg-1 takes a pounding,the taco and rollers. I put drs rollers on as they are quite smaller than the lg-1 rollers and I have them pushed as far in as possible. Gives me a little bit of extra clearance which has helped. I had the rollers laying around but a parts tree is only a few $

  11. #11
    Former Ninja
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    Hi guys,
    The Wide angle backplate is strongly recommended for bikes with dropped chainstays and most of the VPP rigs.

    I've attached a comparison pic that I whipped up to show the differences between most of our single ring systems. The difference between the standard angle and wide angle LG1/SRS backplates is subtle, but it makes the difference between fitting well (and quietly) and performing poorly.



    Also, the 09 M6, SS and Socom have ISCG-05 tabs...a very welcome running production change. I've attached another pic of what the new tabs would look like...if you've purchased your frame within the last month or two.

    Hope this helps guys!

    -philip

    *EDIT*
    And I almost forgot...all of our 2009 chain guides are angle adjustable, so you can adjust the angle to fit just about any frame.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  12. #12
    Old school BMXer
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    Quote Originally Posted by philw86
    *EDIT*
    And I almost forgot...all of our 2009 chain guides are angle adjustable, so you can adjust the angle to fit just about any frame.
    Thank you for posting!

    When will the 2009 stuff be available?

  13. #13
    Former Ninja
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    Hey Blaster,
    The new stuff will hit store shelves early February...and it is definately worth the wait.
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  14. #14
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    I'm going to have to chat to Competitve Cyclist who sold me the wrong back plate for my SS.

  15. #15
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    What gives ?

    As far as I can tell I have the right one (i.e. the wide one) but as you can clearly see - it doesn't fit properly (lower retainer wheel well below taco guard and therefore exposed).
    Attached Images Attached Images

  16. #16
    Former Ninja
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    Hey gravity,
    I got your email on Friday, I've been trying to figure out the best way to get your guide properly dialed.

    It looks like you have the guide rotated clockwise as far as it will go. Ideally you want the lower roller as close to the chainstay as possible without touching (or having the suspension interfere with it). Usually this puts the top arm of the boomerang near the ideal 12 O'Clock position. Judging from your picture in your email (the bike is on level ground) it really looks like your ISCG-OLD tabs are misaligned with the top bolt almost straight up over the BB. On our page, we have the original specs for both ISCG-OLD and ISCG-05 tabs.
    http://www.e13components.com/support...explained.html
    The ISCG-05 standard was designed to address this issue and create a more stringent and stronger standard.

    While we can't fix the position of the ISCG tabs, we can certainly try to make your guide work as best as it can with what we've got. You may try to mount up your guide BB adapter style. It should have been included with your guide. The installation details are in the beginning of the LG1 setup instructions, which we also have on our website.
    http://www.e13components.com/docs/20...structions.pdf
    With the BB adapter, you may run into the issue of the granny ring tabs on your cranks hitting the backplate when you re-tighten your cranks. If this is the case, then you would need to modify the tabs so that they clear. This is the major issue with using a crankset designed for 3 chainrings in a single ring setup, and is why most manufacturers now make 'single ring' cranks. The only difference is having the granny tabs there. Easiest way is to get a bigger drill bit than the tabs, and just drilling them down a bit. Just check the clearances before you do any modifications.

    As for actual setup, your top slider should be 3mm from the top of the chainring, all the way around. The fastest way to do this is to take a 3mm allen wrench (the bolts take a 3mm) put it on the top of your chain, and lower the slider to that point. Then hold it and snug the bolts back up. The back support arch should also be 3mm away...but I usually just eyeball it when I'm doing the top.

    The lower roller position looks pretty good.

    Is there any way to get a closer picture so I can see the gap between the lower roller and the chainstay? On the Socom above, it looked like you could actually tuck the lower roller up to the side of the chainstay to get the ideal position.

    Also, I'm going off for Turkey Day...so PM me here on MTBR. I won't have the e*thirteen email until Monday or so. We'll get ya squared away one way or another.

    Cheers,
    philip
    Last edited by philw86; 11-25-2008 at 07:04 AM.

  17. #17
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    Is there a problem with my MRP overlapping this linkage? I don't know if its visable from this photo?
    Last edited by stephen11364; 02-05-2009 at 04:56 PM.
    52 gear inches

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