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  1. #1
    Living the Dream
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    KS Lev or KS Lev Integra for Spider Comp

    I am running XX1 on my spider comp so I am not using the internal front derailer routing. It seems that it might be easier and cleaner looking to just use the front derailer internal routing for a traditional KS lev rather than use the stealth routing and integra. I also have not been able to find any reviews of the integra except for one negative review. Thoughts? Anyone using a KS Lev integra and can you provide some feedback if so?

    Thanks,
    "And I shout that your all fakes and you should have seen the look on your face"

  2. #2
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    KS Lev or KS Lev Integra for Spider Comp

    Sorry I can't add much but seeing as how you haven't gotten any feedback I'll just pose this question.

    Why no mention of the Reverb Stealth? I have been riding one for a year solid and haven't had a single issue. In fact I just got a second one for my new Spider Comp. I also have two riding buddies that use them (one of which has put 200,000 feet of climbing on this year) and they haven't had a single issue either. Given their popularity you're bound to see some failures but from what I've observed they have worked out a lot of the bugs and are as solid if not more so than the competition.

    My 2˘... FWIW

  3. #3
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    Thanks. I was on the fence, but I guess the great reviews for the Lev, plus no need to bleed it, pushed me to the Lev over Reverb. Also, after looking at the potential water intrusion through the stealth cable opening, I think I am just going to use a non-stealth dropper post.

    Thanks for the reply.
    "And I shout that your all fakes and you should have seen the look on your face"

  4. #4
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    Just out of curiosity, what length reverb did you get? I am 5'll" on a medium Spider Comp. Wondering if I should get 380 or 420?
    "And I shout that your all fakes and you should have seen the look on your face"

  5. #5
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    KS Lev or KS Lev Integra for Spider Comp

    I've for a large frame and I'm 6'3" with a 37" cycling inseam and currently have a 125mm reverb with about 3" of exposed seat post, but have the 150mm on order. I don't remember what overall length it is but either would work for my situation.

  6. #6
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    I have the Lev on mine. I really don't like the downtube routing. Its all cosmetics really but I'd rather only see 5 inches of cable out the back of the bike than 3 feet of cable snaking down the downtube and ruining the sleekness of the internal routing. Even better if you are running an in-line barrel adjuster you can find a thin one and install it in the back to clean up your handlebar look.

    Like I said, all cosmetic, I have no idea if there is a performance difference between the 2.

  7. #7
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    I'm going to be putting an Integra on my spider comp ... any more info here? I wasn't even sure if the hole for the FD would work. Trying to find a reference for how to do the routing. thx

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    Regular LEV for me with my Carbine 29 using the front derailleur holes. Looks cleaner than the external downtube routing.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by trhoppe View Post
    Regular LEV for me with my Carbine 29 using the front derailleur holes. Looks cleaner than the external downtube routing.
    could you tell when you used that front derailleur hole - could you get the housing into the downtube, or can you only go straight back in the top tube?

    I'm starting to wonder if I even want the integra ... there's nothing "integra" about it! I didn't realize Intense ran the "stealth" dropper post cable on the outside till just now. Sure looks like the regular KS, run through the front D hole will be more stealth than the stealth version!

  10. #10
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    KS Lev or KS Lev Integra for Spider Comp

    I used internal routing but used a drill bit to make a small hole in the front dérailleur tube allowing me to run internal all the way from the head tube. So my dropper cable goes into the frame at the front dérailleur entrance point... Probably not Intense approved but super clean!

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ufdah View Post
    I used internal routing but used a drill bit to make a small hole in the front dérailleur tube allowing me to run internal all the way from the head tube. So my dropper cable goes into the frame at the front dérailleur entrance point... Probably not Intense approved but super clean!
    I'm sure I don't have the balls for that move ... but I do wonder why Intense didn't just add another hole on the other side of the frame ... really odd choice to run it on the outside, then route it back in at the seat tube.

    Can you elabroate a bit too - you actually did something to the FD hole, not just drill a brand new one?

  12. #12
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    Exactly, I didn't make a new hole in the frame. I actually used a rotozip to oval out/cut a hole in the actual tube that the front derailleur cable routes through. I didn't cut any structural pieces of carbon just the cable routing tube.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by trhoppe View Post
    Regular LEV for me with my Carbine 29 using the front derailleur holes. Looks cleaner than the external downtube routing.
    If I get a LEV (non-integra) I was planning to use the external top tube routing, but that's on a Spider Comp. Does the Carbine not have guides on the top tube?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ufdah View Post
    Exactly, I didn't make a new hole in the frame. I actually used a rotozip to oval out/cut a hole in the actual tube that the front derailleur cable routes through. I didn't cut any structural pieces of carbon just the cable routing tube.
    Wow ... still sounds like fancy surgery to me! But that makes more sense. I tried to look around and see how close that hole was to connecting to the downtube, but couldn't get a good feel for it.

  15. #15
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    I'm not sure why I didn't think of that earlier. Great idea.

    So from what I understand, you just made a little hole in the tube for the FD here, and then ran the full length housing the rest of the way down the downtube and then up to the seatpost? Any issue with the full length housing banging against the inside of the frame and making a bunch of noise?


  16. #16
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    KS Lev or KS Lev Integra for Spider Comp

    I personally would not mess the Integra on the Spider Comp. The Lev works great if you use the FD routing its more direct and very clean. Plus you have both ends of the cable available if needed for service.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by manitou2200 View Post
    I personally would not mess the Integra on the Spider Comp. The Lev works great if you use the FD routing its more direct and very clean. Plus you have both ends of the cable available if needed for service.
    I'm starting to lean in this direction. I have some small concerns that the little junction box is a possible weaker point vs. the integra, but the other aspects seem to out weigh that small consideration. I'm guessing that if your Integra is setup properly, its not that hard to lift the post out of the frame to access the cable connection, so it maybe less of a difference than it seems. The biggest benefit is the more hidden cable routing.

  18. #18
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    KS Lev or KS Lev Integra for Spider Comp

    I like that the junction box on the Lev is sealed with an o-ring and its low profile seems to keep it out of harms way. I like the way the cover on the box locks in with the barbed ferule, it's a very well designed post! My Lev also has the recourse UL cable which is a plastic coated Kevlar core, so it should not be too affected from water intrusion. Having both ends available to access feels better to me in case I need to adjust or tighten the cable. Routed through the FD ports is pretty stealth. That's MHO.

  19. #19
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    Thanks everyone - I went for it and decided to go with the regular Lev and route through the FD hole. That just seemed to make more sense with this frame.

    Slightly Off topic: Anyone have ( or seen in person ) the new "southpaw" lever? I'll see how I like the regular one, but I really like the look of the "shifter style" lever.

  20. #20
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    I have the Southpaw lever and I really like the lever itself and the fact that the cable routing is better and closer to the bars. I highly recommend it.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Colin+M View Post
    I have the Southpaw lever and I really like the lever itself and the fact that the cable routing is better and closer to the bars. I highly recommend it.
    cool thanks - they should be including that by default ( or as an option ) instead of the regular lever in my mind!

  22. #22
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    I have both the Southpaw remote and the Crank Brothers Kronolog remote. I actually like the Kronolog remote better. The Kronolog remote is more compact than the Southpaw. Also, the Southpaw required more torque to keep it from moving.

  23. #23
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    Got a pic of that installed? Wish I could find the kit w/out the seat clamp, seems like a waste to pay for that...

    Looks cool, I'll have to look into it.

  24. #24
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    Here is a picture of the Kronolog remote.KS Lev or KS Lev Integra for Spider Comp-20141211_093923.jpg

  25. #25
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    Nice - thanks. I'm surprised at the surface, seems like it would be a bit harsh for the thumb...but i like how it looks. Nice and clean, and right where you are already used to having a lever ... much cleaner than the stock KS remote with the "noodle".

    thanks again.

  26. #26
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    I'm using a gutted XO-3 front shifter for the Lev Ti integrated on my XX1 Spider C build. It's a super smooth BB shifter and will work great for the Lev! I'm going to do some custom shaping of the thumb paddle and make it a bit smaller.

  27. #27
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    Thanks to Brisco Dog, I found just the lever from Niagra Bicycle Works ( or via Amazon from the same ) for $9 shipped. Don't have it mounted yet. Hopefully I can just re-use the cable that comes with the KS.

    KS Lev or KS Lev Integra for Spider Comp-2014-12-20-15.41.31.jpg

  28. #28
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    Unfortunately, the Kronolog remote won't clear my brake clamp/mount. Strange. You can see in Brisco Dog's picture how close it is to his. I have XT brakes. Will fiddle some more, but sure didn't seem like it was going to work for me. Looks like stock lever in my future.

    On another matter ... my KS came with the "ultra light" housing. I might call it ultra-cheap! Basically thin plastic tubing ( very hard to get straight ). We'll see ... not impressed with it. I guess I can always just use regular shifter cable/housing if I don't like this stuff.

  29. #29
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    KS Lev or KS Lev Integra for Spider Comp

    The Ul Recourse cable will relax and straighten out, it works well! I'm going to buy another recourse cable and use it with gutted SRAM shifter and integrate it with my guide brakes.

  30. #30
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    +1 on the KS Lev with a re purposed fd shifter.

    I have owned the Kronolog and now the KS Lev. Neither of the stock levers really felt natural or had clean cable routing. Since I went 1x10 I converted the i-spec shifter and have been very happy with the lever action and position on the bars. Feels very natural. I used a standard Jagwire derailleur cable and housing full length.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by manitou2200 View Post
    The Ul Recourse cable will relax and straighten out, it works well! I'm going to buy another recourse cable and use it with gutted SRAM shifter and integrate it with my guide brakes.
    Oh, cool. I was hoping so. It doesn't look that bad now that its installed, but it still is much stiffer (holds shape more) than regular cable. It is thin and light, I'll grant that!

    I don't love the noodle/barrel adjuster ... but probably won't mess with it for now. I might have an old FD shifter somewhere, but its super bulky compared to either the Kronolog or the KS lever, and I'm loathe to go out and buy something else

    If anyone cares - this may or may not be the best routing at the back ... but I decided after much agonizing to start with it and see how it goes. I ran the cable through the link, and put the junction box on the drive side, which actually seemed to make less contact than running it over the link and/or putting the box on the back. ( The only other one I've seen in person went over the link, and he said he tried both variations too... ) I was pretty sure I would want the box at the rear ... but its pretty low profile on the side and I thought maybe the cable sat better that way.

    Anyway...just an excuse to post a pic. Need to get rid of that huge QR on the seat post clamp now....

    Name:  2015-01-07 13.39.25.jpg
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    crappy pic from the front - i hate how the noodle hits the brake resevoir. i know i could put the lever in the place of the ODI lock on ... but don't see that helping that much. ( and I'm lazy )
    Name:  2015-01-07 13.40.22.jpg
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    Last edited by slcpunk; 01-08-2015 at 07:42 AM. Reason: added info/pics

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by slcpunk View Post
    Oh, cool. I was hoping so. It doesn't look that bad now that its installed, but it still is much stiffer (holds shape more) than regular cable. It is thin and light, I'll grant that!

    I don't love the noodle/barrel adjuster ... but probably won't mess with it for now. I might have an old FD shifter somewhere, but its super bulky compared to either the Kronolog or the KS lever, and I'm loathe to go out and buy something else

    If anyone cares - this may or may not be the best routing at the back ... but I decided after much agonizing to start with it and see how it goes. I ran the cable through the link, and put the junction box on the drive side, which actually seemed to make less contact than running it over the link and/or putting the box on the back. ( The only other one I've seen in person went over the link, and he said he tried both variations too... ) I was pretty sure I would want the box at the rear ... but its pretty low profile on the side and I thought maybe the cable sat better that way.

    Anyway...just an excuse to post a pic. Need to get rid of that huge QR on the seat post clamp now....

    Name:  2015-01-07 13.39.25.jpg
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    crappy pic from the front - i hate how the noodle hits the brake resevoir. i know i could put the lever in the place of the ODI lock on ... but don't see that helping that much. ( and I'm lazy )
    Name:  2015-01-07 13.40.22.jpg
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    I also had that new slimmed down remote clamp you show in the pic. I couldn't seem to get it to integrate with my odi grip - anyone else have any luck? But I really didn't need to integrate anyway as it ends up being a bit to far inboard for my liking. The real issue I had with the slimmed down clamp is that with the greatly reduced surface area of the clamp against the bar, it seem to rotate a lot when my knee hit it on tight uphill switchbacks (and mar my bar). Maybe it's the slickness of my carbon bar, or maybe you just cant't toque the clamp bolt enough to get it secure (much lower torque spec than the older fatter clamp). Either way, I went back to the older fatter clamp so hopefully it will be more secure - but I still didn't integrate with my grip - I like the it being flush against the inner odi clamp...for my hand at least.

  33. #33
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    Yeah ... I didn't try to mount it in place of the inner ODI ring - I do remember another post somewhere about someone not being successful with that either.

    Was just looking at mine today .. still don't like the way the "noodle" hangs out up there ... but can't figure out how to get that crank brothers lever in place w/out it hitting my brakes. I'll live with it.

    Haven't had the issue you describe - it IS easy to turn the lever, but I never hit it while riding, nor does it move under normal use.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by slcpunk View Post
    Haven't had the issue you describe - it IS easy to turn the lever, but I never hit it while riding, nor does it move under normal use.
    It may have to do with my lever position and my bike's geometry, but I seem to regularly hit my knee against it in the tight stuff.

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