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  1. #301
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    Ooops. Edited with frame size. If you're interested, PM me, and I'll send a couple of pics. Didn't want to do a full "for sale" post here....

  2. #302
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    Quote Originally Posted by asollie View Post
    The Carbine 29 is a vastly better bike than I am a mountain biker. I have a feeling I'll be growing into it for years.

    I've owned mine for a full season now and put about 700 miles on it. I'm wondering what sorts of maintenance I should do now. For example, I've never done anything with the linkages... should I do that now? Can someone point me towards a greasegun kit that will work with them? I'm always confused by those.

    What else do I need to do? It is hard to know what recommended maintenance is needed and what is overkill. I stay on top of bleeding my brakes and checking my chain, but I have never done anything with the suspension, wheels, or linkages.
    I heard chainsaw lube kits work. It's like a mini grease gun that works with the grease fittings that come on these bikes. They're cheap too. I'll be picking one up today I think.

    As for suspension, depends on what you have. Fox says to have their forks rebuilt every 100 hours or once a year, whichever comes first. You'll have to look up your shock manufacturer recommendations.

    Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk
    Intense 951 Evo and Intense Carbine 29

  3. #303
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    Quote Originally Posted by VitaliT View Post
    Need some help if there is any ready solution for lower link dirt protection?
    Found only tire flap solution used by SC crowd.
    WHY intense does not made anything for they own frames, a they lazy or just retard. Other way perfect frame but this dirt collector is pissing mi out.
    Also need advice for spare part; need a rubber bumper for lower link, my is fouling a part, where I can find one or two.
    The linkage picking up dirt isn't a huge issue unless it's constant wet nasty stuff. But as long as you hose it off (not pressure wash) and grease the linkage you should be ok. My problem was my rear tire would pick up rocks and drop them off in the linkage when the suspension was compressed a bit. So the rocks would get stuck in between the frame and linkage. So I made a deflector out of one of those cheap fork guards that you zip tie to the fork arch. I cut it down to size and secured it using automotive double sided tape. Works like a champ and looks good too. I'll get a pic up here soon.

    Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk
    Intense 951 Evo and Intense Carbine 29

  4. #304
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    Quote Originally Posted by Christopher Robin View Post
    The linkage picking up dirt isn't a huge issue unless it's constant wet nasty stuff. But as long as you hose it off (not pressure wash) and grease the linkage you should be ok. My problem was my rear tire would pick up rocks and drop them off in the linkage when the suspension was compressed a bit. So the rocks would get stuck in between the frame and linkage. So I made a deflector out of one of those cheap fork guards that you zip tie to the fork arch. I cut it down to size and secured it using automotive double sided tape. Works like a champ and looks good too. I'll get a pic up here soon.

    Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk
    Thanks, you listed all problems, wet nasty stuff, stones, small pine cones dropped by rear tire. Every time after ride, wash it and piking up bunch of crap small stones from link leafs and grass
    I even planned to get this one front fender and made some modification to fit it in rear triangle.
    Mudguard CG570 (long) - MUDGUARDZ
    You can share some time pics of your version.
    Itís a shame what intense doesnít make any rear fenders for own carbone frames like they made for M16

  5. #305
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    [QUOTE=VitaliT;12964674]Thanks, you listed all problems, wet nasty stuff, stones, small pine cones dropped by rear tire. Every time after ride, wash it and piking up bunch of crap small stones from link leafs and grass
    I even planned to get this one front fender and made some modification to fit it in rear triangle.
    [url=http://www.rockguardz.com/mudguardz/mudguard


    The rubber bumper on my lower link was getting pretty beat up after a couple months of dry weather riding so to "help" it out, I took a couple pieces of double sided auto tape and attached them on either side of the bumper.

    Then I cut little squares of 3M mastic tape and stacked them on each other and onto each piece of tape and they act as a bit of a bumper as well. So far, so good.

    I am also looking at a homemade guard to keep out the countless rocks and pine needles that accumulate in that link.

    Christopher Robin, if you could post up your masterpiece that would be appreciated.

  6. #306
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    ^ Thanks, i found small rubber door stopper/bumper trimmed it a bit and installed it with zip tie instead of screw and lock it with cut of lock from another zip tie. Will see for how long itís going to work
    Something like on picture but 15mm in diameter


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  7. #307
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    Ok, here are those pics. I used double sided automotive tape (the stuff they use to hold body kits and crap like that together). It's similar to the stuff they use to stick head tube badges on (I used some to stick my spare Intense headbadge on my 951 Evo after removing the FRO badge).

    As for the linkage and frame being exposed underneath, I never really had an issue with them hitting anything. But I did use a left over piece of this thick, clear protective stuff I got for the downtube.

    Those small rubber stoppers look like they would work on my 951 Evo frame. The stock bumpers are too soft and wear out like crazy. I noticed small dents in my stanchion tubes as a result of some crashes and the fork hitting the stoppers hard. I have since removed those stoppers and re-installed the fork bumpers.

    Here are the pics:Carbine 29 Review-dsc_0591.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Carbine 29 Review-dsc_0592.jpg  

    Carbine 29 Review-dsc_0593.jpg  

    Intense 951 Evo and Intense Carbine 29

  8. #308
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    Quote Originally Posted by Christopher Robin View Post
    Ok, here are those pics. I used double sided automotive tape (the stuff they use to hold body kits and crap like that together). It's similar to the stuff they use to stick head tube badges on (I used some to stick my spare Intense headbadge on my 951 Evo after removing the FRO badge).

    As for the linkage and frame being exposed underneath, I never really had an issue with them hitting anything. But I did use a left over piece of this thick, clear protective stuff I got for the downtube.

    Those small rubber stoppers look like they would work on my 951 Evo frame. The stock bumpers are too soft and wear out like crazy. I noticed small dents in my stanchion tubes as a result of some crashes and the fork hitting the stoppers hard. I have since removed those stoppers and re-installed the fork bumpers.

    Here are the pics:Click image for larger version. 

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    Sweet...that looks like a super simple fix.

  9. #309
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    Yup. Solved my issue of rocks getting stuck in there.

    Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk
    Intense 951 Evo and Intense Carbine 29

  10. #310
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    Quote Originally Posted by asollie View Post
    The Carbine 29 is a vastly better bike than I am a mountain biker. I have a feeling I'll be growing into it for years.

    I've owned mine for a full season now and put about 700 miles on it. I'm wondering what sorts of maintenance I should do now. For example, I've never done anything with the linkages... should I do that now? Can someone point me towards a greasegun kit that will work with them? I'm always confused by those.

    What else do I need to do? It is hard to know what recommended maintenance is needed and what is overkill. I stay on top of bleeding my brakes and checking my chain, but I have never done anything with the suspension, wheels, or linkages.
    Take the shock out and take the rear wheel off and cycle the rear suspension. If its not buttery smooth with no resistance through the whole travel, i would replace the bearings. It sounds like since you don't have a grease gun, your bearings are probably shot. Regarding the grease gun to get, its really easy, go to your local hardware store, ACE hardware, OSH, or other and find their chain saws or chain saw parts and accessories and get the small grease gun for the chain saw bar tip. I have an Oregon Pre Loaded grease gun and it works great.


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  11. #311
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    BTW, anyone need a medium '14 front triangle?? (The O-G orange and black). I switched up to a large.

    My medium is super clean, no damage whatsoever. Comes with an FSA headset still in awesome condition and RF 30mm bottom bracket, still in great condition.

    The downtube is covered with thick clear tape so no scratches there. I also have a top link and bolts to go along with it if you need.
    Intense 951 Evo and Intense Carbine 29

  12. #312
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    Anyone have an upper link for the 2014 carbine? I blew up a bearing and it cracked the link!

  13. #313
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    Looking for a smallish top tube bag for Carbine 29. Just to hold a spare tube, tire tools and CO2. Found some that look good for >$100, but that seems nuts. Suggestions?

  14. #314
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    Quote Originally Posted by T1C View Post
    Looking for a smallish top tube bag for Carbine 29. Just to hold a spare tube, tire tools and CO2. Found some that look good for >$100, but that seems nuts. Suggestions?
    Check out Alpine Threadworks Ltd.: Performance Satchel
    I picked one up last year, they're made to order and have a custom fit for each frame.

  15. #315
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    Is this bike going to be updated soon?


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    I wish my grass was emo so it would cut itself...

  16. #316
    Dude, got any schwag?
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    Rumor has it they already shipped one to your house...

  17. #317
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheSchwagman View Post
    Rumor has it they already shipped one to your house...
    Put me in that list (if its a 29 tracer).


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    believe in yourself! I believe in you!

  18. #318
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Dude View Post
    Is this bike going to be updated soon?


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    Coming soon....



    The basket is optional

  19. #319
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    Has anyone tried messing with the HTA via a Cane Creek Angleset on their Carbine 29? I'm about 1500 miles into mine and although I *love* certain things about it I'm not a giant fan of the way it wanders when climbing and I just don't like how it deals with tight corners. I'm thinking that knocking a degree off the HTA (to 68) might help on both scores. Yes, it'll add some BB height but it will also shorten the WB a bit.

    Other thought is to try the 125 setting and limiting the Pike to 150, but that's way tougher (and more expensive) than the headset.

  20. #320
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    That thought did cross my mind: reducing headtube angle. But I think the stability descending may be affected a little too much.

    What fork are you using with what offset?
    Intense 951 Evo and Intense Carbine 29

  21. #321
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    I appreciate the reply! It's the Pike RC 160 with 51mm offset. I'm having trouble bending my brain around the actual BB height/WB impact of a degree less angle. I really don't think that a fraction of an inch on the BB is going to matter much in stability whereas the less slack HA could make a real difference in climbing. In any case a angleset seems like it is the cheapest (and most reversable) option for experimentation vs limiting fork travel or changing the fork for rake.

  22. #322
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    There is a angleset calculator on Cane Creek's website- the basic calcs would yield a 68.1 deg HA. The advanced calculator looks like it would also work WB but I don't know the axle to crown or the stack height change from headset measurements (or even what the latter is...)
    AngleSet Calculator

  23. #323
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    Went on a ride yesterday to test out the 'ol C29 with a 44mm offset upper crown assembly (stock is obviously 51mm with the Fox 36). Overall I'm going to stick with the 44mm. I didn't notice anything negative climbing or descending. Yeah it felt slightly slower in the steering department but the fact I was able to navigate those really tight uphill switchbacks a little better sold me on it. Beyond that, any other changes didn't pop up in the radar enough to make me think I would go back to 51mm.

    Now all I need to do is drop off my rear shock to have the low speed valving softened a little.
    Intense 951 Evo and Intense Carbine 29

  24. #324
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    Interesting- vs making major changes I've been riding it in the 125mm rear setting and 5psi off the Pike pressure, climbs noticeably better and handles descending switchbacks better but is comparably much more skittish downhill and I've "found bottom" on the rear travel a few times with disconcerting results. Talking to my LBS, they suggested that the next step would be to reduce the travel on the Pike to 140 and run 125 rear but honestly, if I'm doing that, I should just consider a different bike.

    I do like the idea that with a 2 minute bolt change I can turn in back into an enduro monster but that for 95% of my local riding (Park City) the reduced rear travel works fine. I imagine that that travel position exists because at some point in development they got some negative feedback about cornering and climbing... who knows.

  25. #325
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    What rear shock do you have?? You might be noticing the need to have it tuned by and aftermarket tuner to get you the best of both worlds.
    Intense 951 Evo and Intense Carbine 29

  26. #326
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    Quote Originally Posted by Christopher Robin View Post
    What rear shock do you have?? You might be noticing the need to have it tuned by and aftermarket tuner to get you the best of both worlds.
    It's the stock monarch. What *could* a tuner do to a lower-end shock like that in terms of performance? I'm honestly not totally sure what I'd be looking for.

  27. #327
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    Quote Originally Posted by Continental View Post
    It's the stock monarch. What *could* a tuner do to a lower-end shock like that in terms of performance? I'm honestly not totally sure what I'd be looking for.
    Read this:
    Rockshox Monarch SSD/HSB Modifications

    What you're looking for is a shock that plays nice with the leverage of the frame. Add to that having it valved and internally adjusted for your body weight and riding style (trail, endure...etc).

    It's an option.
    Intense 951 Evo and Intense Carbine 29

  28. #328
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    Played with mudguardz Long Version CG570.
    Perfect fit in rear tringle.

    Little bit long but it is can be easily modified with dremel and cut off disc.

    Mounted on place with two zip ties and automotive double side tape.
    Now +150km in wet and muddy trails and its work perfectly, some crap still getting to lower link but not like before.

    So I think itís going to fit in all vpp frames

    Carbine 29 Review-tzejfly.jpg

    Carbine 29 Review-0qdaaxx.jpg

    Carbine 29 Review-8bf7qnt.jpg

    Carbine 29 Review-o9qwizk.jpg

    Carbine 29 Review-sz1mcbd.jpg

    Carbine 29 Review-wkneeg6.jpg

  29. #329
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    Not sure if anyone still looks at this thread but with all this talk of people bolting on Recluse top links on their Primers, I decided to look to see if a Tracer T275 top link would fit the C29...and it does. It looks like Intense makes each generation of bikes with a lot of similarities between each model.

    I also noticed the 145mm travel hole in the top link for the Tracer is pretty much exactly where the 140mm hole is in the top link for the C29. I checked the wheel clearance if I ran the shock in the 160mm tavel setting in the C29 and that's where you run into issues: The wheel will contact the seat tube at full bottom out. When I say bottom out, I mean complete bottom out. That'll be easier to reach with an air shock compared to a coil shock which is what I have. I'd have to completely crush the thick bottom out bumper (Push industries shock). One fix is to put a 2mm rubber washer under the bumper.

    I immediately noticed the initial stroke of the travel was more active. Like less force was needed to break away in that first inch of travel...which is good! Now the bad... despite still having ok sag, I found I was pedaling deeper in the travel. Which means the seat tube angle was slacker and the front wheel lifting off the ground if I wasn't careful. I tried ramping up the LSC on my shock but that didn't help much. I get why people go for the Push 11-6 with the two tunes.

    As for descending, yeah I think I noticed a difference. While it's no DH bike, I think I felt the rear end carry a bit more speed. I'll have to do a comparison ride with the shock in the close-to-stock configuration. Overall, I wouldn't trade the little bit of extra travel and sensitivity descending over better climbing efficiency though.

    One big thing I found that bugs me. I tried measuring before and after frame travel with the stock C29 top link before I started swapping parts around. I measured actual movement of the rear axle with shock decompressed and then compressed as if it was fully bottomed out. Yeah it's not 140mm. So then I took the measurement with the shock fully compressed and then measured axle height with no shock, just the rear wheel resting against the seat tube...that's when I got 5.5" or 140mm. Wtf? I'll triple check it but I don't think we're actually getting 140mm travel with a shock in the frame.
    Intense 951 Evo and Intense Carbine 29

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