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  1. #1
    Ideas Above My Station...
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    Adjustable shock-link for SS?

    This is a question kinda for Jeff / Pecusick, and just a point for conversation really.

    In light of the New Tracer + Uzzi, (Which looks awesome!) and its adjustable travel, would there be any chance of making a retro-fit shock-link for the SS to provide adjustable travel?

    It'd be a great way of extending the SS's versatility, especially for people who can only afford one bike (Mainly because it was so bl**dy expensive, although worth it) like me!

    Just a thought, any ideas anyone?

    Thanks & Regards

    J
    Its All Downhill From Here....!

  2. #2
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    What adjustment would you want ? More travel / less travel ? HA adjustment ?

    It's interesting. I have a 6.6 which I wish was adjustable for those two things but my SS I have no interest in / need to adjust. But then I suppose I do own the 6.6...

  3. #3
    Old school BMXer
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    I personally don't really see a need for adjustable travel (more or less), but I could understand why some may want different dropouts to raise the back of the bike, thus raising the bottom bracket and making the head angle steeper.

    Personally, I have no interest in making any changes to my SS. The SS has the geometry and travel I've been wanting in a trail bike for about 9 years. So finally having it has been a dream come true.

    And as it is, the SS is already a great do-it-all bike. I have a very nicely built 5.5 that I could use for trail riding and an M6 I can use for DH, but I still most often go with the SS.

  4. #4
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    You both have alternative rides, which illustrates my point, i have only the SS and wondered if adjustable travel would be able to make the SS EVEN more versatile.

    Steepening the HA, and heightening the BB would be great for the XC/Am type trails, as i have totems and the front is quite high and slack (Which is what i wanted for FR/DH which i do 80% of the time).

    As you said the geometry is nigh-on perfect for FR/Trail riding, and its certainly the most suitable bike, Geo-/spec wise, for me ever.

    The other interesting option would be reducing the travel maybe, as i ride 4X quite a bit, and i don't need the 6.25" or the slackness either. I don't know enough about how the shock settings effect the geometry of the bike to start commenting on exactly what i'd like.

    Just a thought.

    I think in the long run, maybe the SS is so good at what it does, i might have to be resigned to the fact that i'd need another bike, but then i don't really as the SS does 80% / 90% of what i need it to!

    A Tracer, an Uzzi and an M6 would be my perfect quiver, but the SS does so much of what all three of those does, i just thought maybe adding adjustable travel would mean it would do everything i need it to.

    Don't get me wrong, i am NOT complaining!!!
    Its All Downhill From Here....!

  5. #5
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    I use Lyrik U-Turn, and it basically makes SS into a climber (although not a very good one) when I lower the fork. I tried a Totem, and while it makes it a better descender, it makes it impossible to climb other than fireroads. If Rockshox ever gets a 2-Step or U-Turn Totem to work, maybe that might be an option for you. But Lyrik does the job, and anything that requires more than that, I take out my downhill bike.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Orange-Goblin

    The other interesting option would be reducing the travel maybe, as i ride 4X quite a bit, and i don't need the 6.25" or the slackness either.
    You could reduce the slack by getting a set of the M6 dropouts and run a harder spring. Just a thought.

  7. #7
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    Both good ideas, the drop-out one is particularly interesting, but they all involve a semi-permanent change, and the adjustable travel, would be more 'on-the-fly'.

    I don't want to change anything about my bike as its awesome as it is, but being able to change the travel/HA/BB with a flick of an allen key would give me the last 10% to make this bike 100% perfect.

    I ride mostly FR so am happy to slightly compromise the climbing ability for the downhill excellence.

    Thanks for the input though!
    Its All Downhill From Here....!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Orange-Goblin
    Steepening the HA, and heightening the BB would be great for the XC/Am type trails, as i have totems and the front is quite high and slack (Which is what i wanted for FR/DH which i do 80% of the time).
    AH! It's the Totem that greatly takes away of the trail friendliness of the SlopeStyle! Put a 36 on it, and it'll be way better for trail use. Additionally, you may find that it's better in many DH situations - perhaps not as good on super steep stuff (although I'm fine with it), but it'll turn better and have a lower overall center of gravity thanks to the lower BB. Remember, the SS was designed for use with a fork like the 36.

    Although the M6 dropouts are a good alternative, if it's a trail bike, having dropouts for 135 rear hubs is preferred.

    The taller dropouts would make the SS a little more friendly for 4X use, but unless your local 4X course is a steep DH course, the SS would definately not be my choice as a 4X bike. But alas...you said it's the only bike you have. Oh wait!...put a 36 on your SS, and it'll be a lot better for 4X use (I race 4X also, so I am very familiar with the requirements of a 4X bike). That Totem has no useful business on a 4X course.

  9. #9
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    I don't think there might be a new shock link for the SS since on tracer and new uzzi there is new VPP-2 system which also uses different lower shock link and the design is very different

  10. #10
    biking is fun
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    i know you love your totem but you should really consider a fox 36. I went from a marz 66, to a totem, then to a talas 36.
    i really like the 36 on it the best. having 180 was only benificial when doing really steep stuff.
    i think the bike feels way more balanced with 160mm of travel. it definately jumps better, corners better, and just feels right.
    im glad i changed to a 160.

    i think at very least you should try and lower your totem to 160 and see what we are all talking about. if you like it a fox 36 is a good way to drop a pound off your bike.

    i learned with my transition bottlerocket and now my SS that when a company designs a frame around a certain fork then you should probably use that fork for it.
    just my thoughts

  11. #11
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    Hi Bubba,

    I totally hear what your saying, and i'm well aware the Fox 36 is a great fork, and well balanced on the SS, and i know it'd give better versatility for climbing etc, but i just love the totem so much so i just got a new pair!!

    Also i have always preferred to have more travel upftont than outback, just personal preference!

    I think my post has been slightly misinterpreted really, it was just a bit of a leftfield question and a talking point. I am SO happy with the SS and don't really think it necessary to change it, but just got me thinking when i saw the adjustable travel coming out on the Tracer and Uzzi (Man i love that Uzzi!).

    In future, i might consider the Uzzi a better all rounder for me...possibly, as i don't really need the steepness of the seat post on the SS so much as i'm not a huge trickster at the moment, but the SS is great for my mix of DH, 4X and jumping and trails so i guess why change if i love the SS so much...?

    See! Even i'm confused ha ha!;-)

    Not sure how to drop the totem either, any ideas?
    Its All Downhill From Here....!

  12. #12
    biking is fun
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    I remember you saying you wanted to switch to a totem coil so if you did then im not sure. i do however know how to lower a solo air so if you have that still let me know and ill pm you the instructions. if you know how to remove the lowers then it will be really easy.

  13. #13
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    Yeah really wanted the coil, but it went out of stock as i ordered and i'd already sold mine, got another solo Air but in white, which is nice, for 400 ($725) which is about half price, so can't complain. Might get the internals swapped out at a later date, but the Solo Airs workign quite well for now, coil just tracks better for gnarly DH.

    So, Solo Air... How do i lower it, and is it reversible easily? I have NO idea how to remove lowers, but fairly capable of most bike tasks having a product design/engineering degree.

    Your help would be much appreciated!
    Its All Downhill From Here....!

  14. #14
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    ok here we go

    step 1
    so first off you have to get the lowers off. to do this clamp your fork to a work stand by the steer tube. then let all of the air out (very important). then use a 24mm wrench to take the air valve top cap off. then you remove the rebound knob on the right side (just pull it out) then loosen the hex bolt that it was in. also loosen the hex bolt on the other leg. when they are almost all the way out tap them with a rubber mallet. you will feel the lowers slide come down a little. when they feel free then remove the bolts on both sides and get ready for all the oil to come out on the ground (put a bucket or something to catch it. slide the lowers off and set them aside.

    step 2
    look up in the left side (solo air side) and you will see a C clip. remove this and then pull out the internals. here is a diagram that illustrates what should come out when you pull it all out
    http://www.sram.com/_media/techdocs/...ev%20C_web.pdf
    its on page 66. sorry it honestly took me 1 hour to try and figure out how to cut an image from adobe and i could not figure it out.

    step 3
    now that you have the rod with all the parts on it out you want to take some spacers and put them between part 15 and 14. 15 is just the cap with an oring on it. part 14 is the mushroom shaped rubber stopper and the oring cap. so in other words the part directly under 15 is a rubber top out bumper that is kind of mushroom shaped. put the spacers right inbetween them.
    now for spacers you can make one or use totem preload spacers. the only important part is you don't use a skinny one because that will make the topout bumper squish to the side or something and it might not lower the fork. so don't use the revelation all mountain spacers. i used the totem preload spacers. The amount of spacers you use will determine how much it lowers. it will lower it exactly the same amount.

    step 4
    put everything back together. this involves putting everything back in the way you found them, put the C clip back in and then put the lowers back on and the top cap back on. then turn the fork upside down and using a small funnel put new oil back in the lowers by putting the funnel in where the hex bolts go in. i believe its 30cc's 15wt oil in each leg but check sram.com to find out for sure. keep it upside down, put the hex bolts back in and then screw them in. some oil might come out but thats fine.

    wipe off the extra oil and put the correct air back in and enjoy.

    wow that was a long description.
    between this description and the diagram im sure you can figure it out.

    let me know how it goes and if you have anymore questions.

  15. #15
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    Bubba, thats a damn good description there. Huge thanks. I'm gonna copy, paste and keep that, not gonna attempt it yet having just got these new beauties, but i think i may try it in the future for sure.

    Thanks again!!
    Its All Downhill From Here....!

  16. #16
    biking is fun
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    hopefully it works out. let me know how it goes if you do it.

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