XX1 weight savings versus XT
I'm in the process of doing an XX1 upgrade for my Mojo HD, not done yet but I've pulled out the old drivetrain and done some comparative weighing with a Park digital scale. I know some folks have been wondering what kind of weight savings you can get with XX1, so here's what it did for my mostly-XT drivetrain. All weights in grams.
XT 10 speed 11-36 Cassette - 340
XT 10 speed Chain - 253
XT 3x10 front shifter and cable - 124
XT front shifter cable housing - 32
XT 3x10 Front Derailleur - 153
XT Crank FC-M770 3x10, 24T/32T with MRP Party Crasher Lite 36T bash guard - 835
XT Bottom Bracket - 93
XTR Shadow Plus Rear Derailleur - 209
XT 10 speed Rear Shifter and cable - 130
Standard freehub body (for DT Swiss 240s hub) - 49
Total old drivetrain - 2218
XX1 11 speed 10-42 Cassette - 265
XX1 Chain - 253
XX1 Crank with 32T chainring - 567
XX1 GXP bottom bracket - 111
XX1 Rear Derailleur - 242
XX1 Rear Shifter and cable - 121
XX1 XD freehub body (for DT Swiss 240s hub) - 38
Total new drivetrain - 1597
Weight Savings - 621g, or 21.9 ounces, or 1.37 lbs
A few notes: I haven't yet cut the XX1 chain or rear derailleur cable, so add a few grams of weight savings there. But the old drivetrain had some dirt and grime so subtract a few grams of savings there, in the end it's probably a wash. Note that I had a fairly heavy bash guard in place of the big ring on my XT triple, so that boosted my weight savings more than it might for others.
The big weight savings are in eliminating the front derailleur and shifter, and the XX1 carbon crank with the single chainring. A few XX1 components are heavier than my old XT/XTR equivalents - rear derailleur and bottom bracket. But surprisingly, not the massive 11 speed cassette. That thing is a one-piece machined thing of beauty. I'm dreading the cost of replacement down the road.
Last edited by trenchDiggr; 02-21-2013 at 10:10 PM.
Thanks for posting this! I know a lot of us have been curious to see the actual weight difference beyond the general "lighter" comments.
I've got over a thousand miles (+26 races) on an XX rear cassette and the thing looks brand new. The old 990 cassettes seemed to wear fast, but the new xx/xx1 cassettes sure seem to last. I read somewhere that the average XX rear cassette lasted 3x longer than an XT. We'll see if that happens, but still, things are looking good from my end.
The 11-32 and 11-36 rear XX cassettes have a replaceable biggest cog, but sram doesn't stock them anymore. Do you know if the XX1 has that for the 42t?
Either way, sounds like a sweet upgrade for your ride. Congrats, and be sure to post pics!
I was really curious as well. I rode, well lighty rode a new enduro the other day with xx1. Very clicky and notchy feeling I thought, but was curious of the weight savings. Thanks for taking the time to do that. Very cool.
I currently have a 1*10 XTR setup on my Mojo SL and I recently bought a XX1 drivetrain (for upcoming Ripley?). Prior to the 1*10 drivetrain I had a 3*9 XTR/XT setup on my Mojo SL. Here is some weight comparisons of those three setups (actual weight in grams)
Shifter + cable + clamp 119 g
Rear derailleur 242 g
Cranks (GXP 175mm Q168 32t) 572 g
Bottom bracket (Truvativ Pressfit GXP BB92) 90 g
Chain 253 g
Cassette 11-42 270 g
Total 1,546 g
Shifter + cable (XTR SL-M980) 120 g
Rear derailleur (XTR RD-M985) 208 g
Cranks (XTR FC-M970) 551 g
Front chainring (eThirteen Guidering 32t) 34 g
Upper guide (eThirteen XCX-ST High Mount) 76 g
Bottom bracket (FSA ?) 76 g
Chain (XTR CN-M980) 268 g
Cassette (XTR CS-M980) 279 g
Total 1,612 g
Shifter + cable (XT SL-M770) 287 g
Front derailleur (XT FD-M771) 167 g
Rear derailleur (XTR RD-M972) 180 g
Crankset (XTR FC-M970) 795 g
Chain (XTR CN-HG93) 286 g
Cassette (XTR CS-M970) 246 g
Total 1,961 g
So the weight saving of XX1 compared to my old 3*9 setup was 415 g. The saving compared to XTR 1*10 setup is 66 g ie. approximately the weight of the upper guide which is hopefully not necessary in the XX1 setup.
What's the difference in cost to go XX1?
I paid $1029.99 on ebay for the full XX1 kit - crank/chainring, GXP bottom bracket, chain, shifter, rear derailleur, cassette. The group is available with a trigger shifter or grip shift, I went with trigger. I also paid about $100 for the XX1 freehub body for the DT Swiss 240s hub.
Originally Posted by pinkrobe
The one thing that can increase cost is you need a rear hub that provides an XX1 freehub option. the XX1 cassette requires a new freehub standard (XD Driver), it will not mount on a standard freehub. Not all hub makers are providing the XX1 freehub option for all of their hubs. Here's a good overview as of December: Manufacturer Round Up: Who’s Making SRAM XX1 Drivers & What Are the Design Challenges? - Bike Rumor
I did reach out to Easton and was told that they have an XX1 freehub in the works for their later hubs but won't support certain older hub models for XX1.
In my case, the stock Ibis rear wheel (with a Joytech hub) that came with my 2011 HD does not have an XX1 freehub option. I was thinking about upgrading wheels anyway, so I splurged on a set of carbon hoops - 2013 Roval Traverse SL. The rear hub uses DT Swiss 240s internals, so I was able to use the DT Swiss XX1 freehub. I posted first impressions of the wheels over in the Wheels and Tires forum: Roval Traverse SL carbon all-mountain wheelset - first impressions. Between the XX1 upgrade and the carbon wheelset, I'm dropping 2 lbs from my HD.
Commit or eat sh!t
Why would you guys not use an upper guide and a bash ring (if available) with XX1 setup?
I do plan to get a bash ring, but none is available at the moment. You can use bottom-bracket mounted bash guards, but I've heard that they have a tendency to rotate, so I'm waiting for a spider-mounted bash ring option. I've read that North Shore Billet is working on a new spider for XX1 that will allow mounting of a bash ring.
As for a guide - word is that none is needed with XX1 because of the friction clutch rear derailleur and the chainring design, but I still need to see it for myself. The chainring is specifically designed for chain retention - it even has alternating wide/skinny teeth to fit within the alternating narrower and wider spaces on the chain. Lots of folks are reporting no chain drops even in very rough terrain where they would get drops with other drivetrains.
Because of the 10 tooth cog at the back you can run a 32 instead of a 34/36 or even a 30 if you normally run a 32. Because the chainrig is smaller there is less chance of hitting it. Even with my 1x10 11-36 with a 34 up front I never have problems hitting the chainring. If I'm going to a lifted park or somewhere a bit technical I carry a spare chainring which is lighter than most bashring, but I have never had to use it.
Originally Posted by Cable0guy
Several races on my XX1 and some rough rides without issue (knock on wood). If you are running 1x I would suggest going up at least 2 teeth on the chainring compared to what you have currently. I was running a 36 up front and went to a 38. Perfect setup with the 42 in the rear.