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  1. #1
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    Warning: Change Fork Oil in FOX Often

    I thought I was pretty good about doing this. FOX service just called and said my uppers (stanchions) were wasted on my mojo SL.
    Fork is a FOX float RLC FIT. Since oil migrates to the oil spring about every 3 weeks, I change is often-not so much on the FIT side. I put the SKF seals on about 9 months ago.

    Anyway- I'm getting new blinging kashima lowers, but its also costing me $150. I had no idea that the forks were this sensitive. Looks like I need to replace seals every 40 hrs which is every other month.

    So my front end looseness wasn't just the lower headset bushing after all.

  2. #2
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    Best thing to do with your fox is to use the lowers as bottle openers. That's how my Talas gets used. It actually does that pretty well. Better than the whole, working as a fork thing.

    I wish I was joking.

    Hope it gets fixed and you get back on the trails though!

  3. #3
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    I just took apart my Talas 160 and there was NO oil left in one of the sides. "Squishy" ring was dry.

    Glad I opened it up when I did!

  4. #4
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    cough Marzocchi cough lol

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by nzl62 View Post
    cough Marzocchi cough lol
    Nothing is perfect. Just had an oil seal blow up on a 9 month old 44 RC3. Otherwise, pretty decent fork.

    Parts are on order. Oil seals are not covered under the Marzocchi warranty.

    But yeah, on the Fox thing, recently rebuilt a friends 32 Float RL that he had ignored for a couple of years. Uppers were toasted, with deep groves that lined up with the bushing seams, even on the open bath side.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by nzl62 View Post
    cough Marzocchi cough lol
    But I just got the cool $290 Fox shorts + window stickers!?!?!


  7. #7
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    I didn't service my Fox Float 36 [~2009 product] for the first 3.5yrs of regular riding [my bad!]. No damage. Fork works great. I'll be more on top of the service from now on.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  8. #8
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    Why can't they make a fork that lasts as long as a car or truck shock(without service)?
    milesW

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by miles wadsworth View Post
    Why can't they make a fork that lasts as long as a car or truck shock(without service)?
    They can. You aren't gonna want to strap a 10lbs fork on your bike though...
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  10. #10
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    It takes me 5 minutes to change the oil in my Fox fork*. I do it every couple months. I swapped to SKF seals a year ago and they show no signs of needing replacement. The TALAS cart seems to suck up chassis oil so when it feels too progressive I turn it upside down and depress the schrader valve to shoot that extra oil out of the cartridge. Let a little oil stay in.

    *Remove foot nuts, pull lowers down a centimeter, allow oil to drain. Flip bike upside down and use a syringe to refill with oil, re-install nuts. Could probably be done in 2 minutes if you don't wait for every drop to come out.
    Keep the Country country.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lelandjt View Post
    It takes me 5 minutes to change the oil in my Fox fork*. I do it every couple months. I swapped to SKF seals a year ago and they show no signs of needing replacement. The TALAS cart seems to suck up chassis oil so when it feels too progressive I turn it upside down and depress the schrader valve to shoot that extra oil out of the cartridge. Let a little oil stay in.

    *Remove foot nuts, pull lowers down a centimeter, allow oil to drain. Flip bike upside down and use a syringe to refill with oil, re-install nuts. Could probably be done in 2 minutes if you don't wait for every drop to come out.
    Thanks, will do. Now that sounds easy.
    milesW

  12. #12
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    FWIW, If you have your Fox fork Push'd, they actually recommend against regular oil changes, or any oil changes for that matter.

    Not endorsing the practice, just sayin'.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Betarad View Post
    FWIW, If you have your Fox fork Push'd, they actually recommend against regular oil changes, or any oil changes for that matter.

    Not endorsing the practice, just sayin'.
    Well that's silly, what's the logic on that one?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Betarad View Post
    FWIW, If you have your Fox fork Push'd, they actually recommend against regular oil changes, or any oil changes for that matter.

    Not endorsing the practice, just sayin'.
    I bet you're confusing chassis oil with damper oil. The damper is sealed and if they use a high end oil it won't need changing for long intervals and if it were changed you'd have to use the same oil they did to maintain the feel they went for. FWIW in 2 years I haven't changed my damper oil and don't feel any breakdown or change in damping.
    Keep the Country country.

  15. #15
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    After reading about the 40 hour chassis oil bath change interval earlier this year, I inquired with Push since I had my 36 Talus Push'd and converted to a float a year ago. They told me unless oil is seeping out the top seals significantly, there's no need to change the oil bath.

    I interpreted their logic as a combination of two factors: The materials they use (oil, seals, etc) are apparently superior to Fox factory materials to some degree, and they feel any high performance fork should be completely rebuilt at an interval of about a year or two, depending on performance degradation and owner preference. So they basically instructed me to run it hard without worrying about a thing, and when I feel a drop in performance, it's time to re-build.

    I've run it for almost a year now....no issues yet.

  16. #16
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    And as you guys probably know, the Talas fork is even more sensitive than the Float. I toasted mine by waiting a bit too long for oil change. And I had nothing but problems with that fork from the beginning, so I swore I'd never buy one of them again. There is hardly any oil on the Talas side and the Talas mechanism is just too fraught with issues.

    Everyone I know has moved away from Talas to fixed travel fork (various brands) which tend to be more reliable and better performance. I do miss it on the occasional long super steep climbs, but it's just not worth it.

    On the Push topic, I was told the same thing by Push...that you shouldn't have to change the oil after their service for a year for even pretty frequent riders, and by that time the fork needs a full service anyway.

  17. #17
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    I have always ridden my forks until oil is leaking and then get a rebuild, I have never had a problem with Talas or Float

  18. #18
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    I installed Enduro seals from Real World Cycling. Easy and awesome. No more leaks, smoother action.

    Easier to dial in the air pressure without all the stiction.

    The material of the stock seal/wiper is not that great based on the way it ripped apart while removing it.

  19. #19
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    so I too have lower leg oil going into the air chamber ('12 Float FIT 36) - was wondering why i never gotten full travel - and ended up with busted left seal with Northstar very fine powder dust - no oil in the left air spring whatsoever and lots of dirt. doooohhh.... right side has a sludge - so I was overdue (used bike).

    but I attributed to filling in the lowers upside down when the air pressure was out (which I did once) as I got no oil a second time (and likely ~60ml in the air chamber once I figured out where it went). I wouldn't think oil could migrate into the air chamber without first loosing air... only time will tell if it stays in the lowers... but yeah it's much easier to change Fox lowers than my revelation was, though every 30h seems like often. Hopefully the oil stays there now, if not that's a pretty bad design.

  20. #20
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    The guy who likes Enduro seals probably had the old Fox seals. The new ones made by SKF arw great.

    Chassis oil definitely gets sucked into the TALAS air chambers and apparently also the Float. Now and then flip the bike upside down and depress the schrader valve to squirt some oil out but not all of it.
    Keep the Country country.

  21. #21
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    I am looking to replace the seals in my 2011 Fox 32 Talas 150 FIT RLC and am trying to figure out the amount of oil to replace. I have been looking on the Fox site and and am little confused. The Fox Dust Wiper & Oil Chg page says to add 7 wt oil which has to be wrong but the amount it says is 10cc on the Talas side and 160cc to prime the cartridge side. Then if you look at the oil volume page is says Red 35.2cc (damper) then Green 30cc & 10cc for the damper and spring side oil bath. Any help is greatly appreciated.

    Oil Volumes
    32 mm TALAS III RLC
    "Some people live an entire lifetime and wonder if they have made a difference in the world. Marines don't have that problem.

  22. #22
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    I like 10 or 15wt to lube the chassis. About 40cc in each leg will do.
    Keep the Country country.

  23. #23
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    43) 2010-2012 TALAS 150
    (FIT RL & RLC dampers) FOX Red 10 wt. Damper 35.2
    FOX Green 10 wt. Damper-side oil bath 30.0
    Spring-side oil bath 10.0
    FOX Float Fluid Main Chamber 3.0
    Negative Chamber 3.0

    So, if you're just changing the oil baths, 30ml and 10ml

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lelandjt View Post
    The guy who likes Enduro seals probably had the old Fox seals. The new ones made by SKF arw great.

    this.

    I've rebuilt dozens of fox forks, and the enduro seals were decent. Certainly better than the old fox seals. But the new SKF fox seals are really nice. Stiction is down and they're a beefy damn seal. I'd recommend them to anyone doing seals, they're worth it and way better than the enduros.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by invictarocks View Post
    43) 2010-2012 TALAS 150
    (FIT RL & RLC dampers) FOX Red 10 wt. Damper 35.2
    FOX Green 10 wt. Damper-side oil bath 30.0
    Spring-side oil bath 10.0
    FOX Float Fluid Main Chamber 3.0
    Negative Chamber 3.0

    So, if you're just changing the oil baths, 30ml and 10ml
    Yes 10ml is the spec for the air side, even for my much larger volume 36 180. This is very little oil and I've had good results running much more. If you're concerned about air volume and progressiveness you can check by compressing the fork to bottom-out (with no air in the cartridge) after re-assembly and if it does ramp up noticeably let a little oil out. I'd say a safe starting point is matching the damper leg's oil volume.
    Keep the Country country.

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