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  1. #1
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    Upper link & brake line rub

    So I've had my 2013 HD about 6 weeks now. Everything has worked perfect. Last weekend while riding a local lift area the rear brake would come and go. I thought I might have had some air in the line (I did) so I went to the shop and asked for a bleed. Air kept coming and coming and coming. Problem discovered - the upper link was rubbing a hole in the brake line.

    Obviously this could have led to a complete fail. I sort of assumed that the shop had routed the original brake line incorrectly. I mean, otherwise it would be a design flaw right? And I couldn't imagine the fine folks at Ibis doing that.

    Well, a new rear brake line comes in last night. I'm working with our local hero wrench and there simply isn't a way we can route the line on the inside of the rear triangle (as Ibis directs) without the brake line rubbing the link bolt when the suspension activates. We ended up running the line around the outside. Not elegant but I didn't know what else to do.

    The shop I ride for has quite a few demo mojos (HD and SLR). There were several in the shop last night including the owner's HD. Every single one of them that had any mileage was experiencing the same thing - the upper link bolt was wearing a hole in the rear brake line.

    So:

    Who else has experienced this???

    Hans - what gives?

  2. #2
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    I used to have this problem because I had routed the line incorrectly. I didn't get the booklet when I got my frame so I just looked at some pictures in the forums. I had put the line on the inside of the frame and then zip tied it to the seat stay and ran it along the outside of the seat stay to the rear caliper. I was getting some rubbing on big hits and I was afraid that it was going to wear through so I put some tape around the brake line. I was out riding and a guy on an HD saw the tape and said I should run the brake line on the inside of the seat stay. Since I changed it I haven't had a problem.

  3. #3
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    It was routed correctly as per Ibis instructions (inside seat stay) and still got the rub.
    We also did try making this as short as possible and still the rub - less, but it was there. :/

  4. #4
    Too Much Fun
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    Too much line

    Quote Originally Posted by sdemars View Post
    The shop I ride for has quite a few demo mojos (HD and SLR). There were several in the shop last night including the owner's HD. Every single one of them that had any mileage was experiencing the same thing - the upper link bolt was wearing a hole in the rear brake line.

    Who else has experienced this???
    I haven't, and I'm gonna be building my 3rd Mojo soon. It sounds like whoever has been been building those bikes has been allowing a bit too much line going from the DT to the stay. It shouldn't be floppy or loose and should be snug up against the inside of the stay.

    The Ibis Owners manual and some of the images on the Ibis site show how the line should run and it would be hard to get it over to the bolt without there being some extra slop. You can see in this image that it's almost taught, especially as it leaves the DT protector.Upper link & brake line rub-mojo_hdr130b-ibis7160.jpg
    Last edited by benja55; 07-24-2013 at 11:29 AM. Reason: wrong wording!
    - -benja- -

  5. #5
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    I have the opposite problem, my brake line was sawing my rear traingle in half. The reinforcment between the seat and chainstay was getting worn from the rough brake line. Everytime the suspension compressed the brake line would rub across it. IMO Ibis should be putting a stick on reinforcement there.

    Take a look at your bike and make sure it's not sawing through.

  6. #6
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    mine was too slack when i built it and got pinched between triangle and i assume upper link. you might want to check that.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by benja55 View Post
    I haven't, and I'm gonna be building my 3rd Mojo soon. It sounds like whoever has been been building those bikes has been allowing a bit too much line going from the DT to the stay. It shouldn't be floppy or loose and should be snug up against the inside of the stay.

    The Ibis Owners manual and some of the images on the Ibis site show how the line should run and it would be hard to get it over to the bolt without there being some extra slop. You can see in this image that it's almost taught, especially as it leaves the DT protector.Click image for larger version. 

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    Benja55 is on it.
    I have had my HD for almost 2 years now and the brake cable shows no wear. I just deflated my shock and cycled suspension. At its closest point its still .25" clearance. My cable is routed just as Benja55 showed. My line leaving the downtube protector and going to the seat stay is a short as it can go with out causing a kink in the line.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by brankulo View Post
    mine was too slack when i built it and got pinched between triangle and i assume upper link. you might want to check that.
    I had the same problem. Link bolt pinched my brake line.

  9. #9
    Mtb Guide
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    sdemars probably helpful if you posted some pics, Ive not had this issue, either with cable to the stay arm, I did run some sail tape black on the inside of the stay bridge just to keep it cosmetically clean.

    Benj is bang on plus they should remove the shock before cutting cables and check the length is correct when compressed and at full extension with out rubbing or caught in linkage a good LBS would do this, just good experience on any bike!

    On brakes, what brakes you guys are running, not all cables are equal either.

    Mine are semi braided very hard in a good way, I just replaced my brake pads, why I didn't do this sooner I dunno I did do this on my DH bike sooner with my 2012 Codes, switched from organic to sintered and they were awesome, now Ive done my XO trails wow awesome power and control definitely a big improvement.

    Sorry for the slight derail, for anyone running Avids, switch to sintered it is night and day, just brake them in properly, meaning run down a gradual hill one brake at a time, don't pull lever on off, you want consistent pull not stopping but hard enough to heat the pad over the circumference of the rotor so it doesn't glaze or make the pads uneven, this way the Avid rotors won't be noisy, mine are silent and now deadly.

    You definitely don't want the brake cable routed on the outside any LBS that does that should be shot, its poor workmanship and a bad solution, not just for looks but a good crash is more likely to cut the cable or rip it out of the caliper connection same with forks, as soon as I see a disc brake cable routed on the outside I know some muppet has worked on that bike, just not acceptable ever, people just don't know better but any LBS should, plus they should know the in's and outs of what they sell.

    Sorry for being a hardarse on this but you pay for some thing from those that should know how it should be done to standard, a great LBS will do it to a std beyond that

  10. #10
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    I noticed mine rubbing so I just added a zip-tie. Problem solved.

  11. #11
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    avid brakes suck
    other than being cheap for oem
    from a shop stand point, they suck
    are you aware of how much time has been accumulated on bleeding these things( even when new)
    why dont you start a poll for shop mechanics on how much of their time is wasted on elixir garbage.

    on a side note, have a nice day

  12. #12
    aka dan51
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    Quote Originally Posted by brankulo View Post
    mine was too slack when i built it and got pinched between triangle and i assume upper link. you might want to check that.
    I had the same problem, too much cable was my problem. Been problem free for 3 years once I fixed it.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    ...People thought they were getting a good fork because it was a "fox".

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