Upgrading Mojo SL to 10 Speed
My 9-speed XT drivetrain is worn and this weekend a broken hanger killed the rear derailleur (and wheel and cable), so I am looking at options of upgrading.
Pretty decent deals on XT 2x10 and 3x10 components can be had right now (often cheaper than 3x9 replacements).
First I'm curious about rider's impressions with 2x10 and steep technical trails (ie much of Colorado), as well as any DW-Link efficiency concerns with gearing not available when the SL was designed.
The 2x10 gearing with 26-38 cranks covers nearly all the 3x10 range(minus <gear at bottom and top)
Second, I have not been able to find great info on 2X configurations compatible on the SL. The Ibis website has a list of front derailleur compatability, but it only lists XTR cranks. Additionally it says a 2x9 SLX front for 2x10 setups?
I only want to order parts once, so I'm trying to get this right the first time. Plus I think others will appreciate some concise information here.
Replace broken/worn components and stay 3x9? Upgrade to 2X10? 3x10?
I think I may go with the 3X and replace the big ring for a bash during my normal riding and put the big ring back on during races or known big ring riding trips.
What have been your experiences with replacing the 3X rings on existing 9 speed cranks to 10 speed rings?
Thanks for any input!
EDIT: Removed dedicated 2x10 from the options. Additional research has lead me to believe that, between the lack of low gearing ranges for some uber steep climbing I do, and the losses in anti-squat characteristics designed into the bike with with 3X front chainring diameters, 2X10 will be too detrimental to my riding in effort and efficiency standpoints.
Last edited by mtnzj; 05-04-2013 at 11:33 AM.
"and the losses in anti-squat characteristics designed into the bike "
DW-Link works on on everything from the standard triple to new XX1 (1x11) without any issues or loss in suspension performance.
10 speed chains also fit 9 speed rings (and cogs).
DW-Link is not dependent on 3 rings or a small granny.
I didn't mean to imply that DW-Link is dependent on 3 ring set ups. Dave Weagle designed it around 3 rings though. In his own words from a MBR question about 1x drivetrains, (link) "I design for optimization in the middle ring in the flats and light climbs, granny for the big climbs, and big ring for the descents. There is a lot of overlap there. "
Now, I know this doesn't mean complete inefficiency in chainring combinations outside of designed ideals, but I believe it decreases the anti-squat physics outside of the designed. I have noticed this characteristic decrease when cross-chaining a bit (out of laziness) in the small front ring on rides with repetitive steep climbs where I pedal short distances on flats and experience increased suspension bob. Others' experiences on this forum seem to mirror my own when experimenting with different drivetrain setups that the primary riding chainring is more than 4 teeth +/- from a 32 tooth ring.
Now I could be very wrong, and 2x setups on Ibis/DW-Link bikes could work just fine(I'd gladly admit it, if proven wrong). I love my Mojo and just want to keep the super-efficient pedaling characteristics that made me fall in love with this bike out of the dozen+ I demo'd before I chose it.
The dedicated 2X drivetrains intrigued me mainly due to some increased simplicity, and that it is rare that I use my highest gear ratios.
I guess my primary question (outside of physical drivetrain fitment issues) is whether there is an appreciable decrease in efficiency on setups that deviate far from the 32tooth middle ring for typical riding?
EDIT: Derby: thanks for your comment and your wide range of activity of this forum. Your quality input has been beneficial to me on many occasions.
Hey mtnzj, in the 4 years I've had a carbon Mojo I've run 3x9, 1x9, and 2x10. The 2x10 is definitely my favorite setup. You can successfully mix 9sp front components (chainrings, f. der, shifter) with dynasys rear (r. der, shifter, cassette, chain), so it was a relatively affordable upgrade to do.
I originally had the gearing that was typical and that DW was designing around, 22-32-44 front, 11-34 rear. Now, with the 11-36 cassette I run either a 24 or 26 small ring with a shimano 36t big ring & E13 bash, and it perfectly covers all the steep ups and downs I ride, although I'm not doing super-extended climbs & descents at altitude.
I actually like the way the suspension behaves a little better in this configuration. My trails have a lot of steep technical ledgy climbs, and the bigger inner chainring reduces the antisquat a bit and produces a little less pedal feedback when trying to surge up those steep steps. With the 22 on there I would occassionally get some disruptive monkey motion in the granny when flailing hard up the rough stuff. With my 26" rear wheel installed, I LOVE the 26/36 front combo.... I can stay in the 36 for so much of the ride when it's rolling up and down, but get low enough gearing and quick/tight shifts between chainrings since it's just a 10t jump down to the 26, with the aforementioned reduction in pedal feedback vs the original 22. With my 650b wheel installed I'll sometime switch to a 24 for help on the steepest pitches.
Also, when I made the switch I kept my 3x front derailleur on for a while, but later switched to the SLX that's designed for doubles and it's definitely worth it. I find it kinda funny that my non-standard, 9sp/10sp mutant setup is the best performing I've ever owned. There's a lot of wiggle room and personal perference involved......"overlap" is the term DW used, right? I wouldn't read too much into one 5 year old magazine quote.
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