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  1. #1
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    Good job! Squirt Chain Lube ...

    I have concluded a 5 month test/review of this lube in the New Products forum, if anyone is interested.


    Rainman.
    It is inevitable ...

  2. #2
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    Link for those who are lazy like me:
    "Squirt" Chain Lube.

  3. #3
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    Wow...people actually review chain lube?

  4. #4
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    R-man, have you used Pedro's Ice for any length of time? I wonder how it compares with Squirt. I have never found White Lightning or Pedro's Ice work as well in rain and muddy conditions as a wet oil lube, Dumonde-Tech light being my favorite all year lube now. But I see you had good results with Squirt in mud conditions. Maybe I'll try it, I like how wax lube keeps the chain and gears much cleaner.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by derby
    R-man, have you used Pedro's Ice for any length of time? I wonder how it compares with Squirt. I have never found White Lightning or Pedro's Ice work as well in rain and muddy conditions as a wet oil lube, Dumonde-Tech light being my favorite all year lube now. But I see you had good results with Squirt in mud conditions. Maybe I'll try it, I like how wax lube keeps the chain and gears much cleaner.
    How often (or how many miles) do you reapply Dumonde-Tech when riding in the bay area (Northern California)?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by BitterDave
    How often (or how many miles) do you reapply Dumonde-Tech when riding in the bay area (Northern California)?
    Probably too often, every ride. My local regular loop from home around Tamarancho is only 15 to 18 miles depending on options. It does need it each ride when its wet or muddy, but I could probably go 2 or 3 of those rides without relubing in dry conditions with Dumond-Tech.

  7. #7
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    Replies...

    There are a couple of things about Squirt that made me change over to using it.
    Previously, I had tested several other lubes, and while they were very good ... eg: Progold, R&R etc.. they fell down in one area badly.

    Degreasing.

    I hate degreasing chains. It's a messy, fiddly, time consuming, and polluting thing to do regularly. With Squirt, I have never had to do that. I just re-apply a new coating of the wax-based lube and ride!
    Squirt keeps the chain very clean, it doesn't attract as much crud as other 'wet' lubes i've used, and each application last a long time.
    The lube is bio-degradeable and friendly to the enviroment, unlike most other chain lubes.
    It's easy to apply, cheap, and does a fantastic job of keeping everything quiet and smooth. If Squirt has a 'down side' it is that after a wet [really wet] ride, you must re-apply the lube. That's it. Apart from that small 'glitch' which is part of the lubes bio-degradeability feature, being water-based, I couldn't fault it at all.
    For me, living here in AU which is a [usually] dry country most of the time, Squirt is perfect. It just takes all the hassles out of servicing the drive chains on my bikes.
    No more degreasing, no more pollution, just a really fast and easy method of keeping all your bike chains running smooth and quiet.

    I saw no excess wear on the chain or cogs over the test period, the original Shimano chain still looks like new.

    Give the Squirt a try for yourselves. It's cheap, and if you don't like it, just go back to what you were using before.

    I'm betting that you won't want to go back though. I didn't.


    Rainman.
    It is inevitable ...

  8. #8
    Trail Rider
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    I've been trying every type out there, for years

    I'm in SOCAL. I wanted something for winter and summer,(dry,dry dust and mud). I use K&N air filter lube spray. I clean with WD 40 and then spray it on the chain. I then wipe it off. It makes it through the long dry epic rides, and no chain suck this year in the mud(same chain and rings). I wanted something simple and easy. I use it for my air filter also.
    Don

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quattro
    I'm in SOCAL. I wanted something for winter and summer,(dry,dry dust and mud). I use K&N air filter lube spray. I clean with WD 40 and then spray it on the chain. I then wipe it off. It makes it through the long dry epic rides, and no chain suck this year in the mud(same chain and rings). I wanted something simple and easy. I use it for my air filter also.
    K&N filter oil! That is some sticky oil, and mixed with WD-40 after a cleaning would help the K&N penetrate the chain well. No chain suck in muddy conditions is a true test of effectiveness.

    I'm going to have to try Squirt. I like the easy cleanliness of a dry lube. If chain suck in mud is no worse than my best so far results found by using Dumond-Tech it would be a year round winner.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by derby
    I'm going to have to try Squirt. I like the easy cleanliness of a dry lube. If chain suck in mud is no worse than my best so far results found by using Dumond-Tech it would be a year round winner.
    Let me know if you find any local to where you are. I'm slowing working my way though a small bottle of the Dumonde lube, but will need a new bottle of lube sooner or later.

  11. #11
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    clean with WD40

    Quote Originally Posted by Quattro
    I'm in SOCAL. I wanted something for winter and summer,(dry,dry dust and mud). I use K&N air filter lube spray. I clean with WD 40 and then spray it on the chain. I then wipe it off. It makes it through the long dry epic rides, and no chain suck this year in the mud(same chain and rings). I wanted something simple and easy. I use it for my air filter also.
    wipe away
    I'll have to check the K&N. If it is 2 parts oil to 1 part mineral spirits (or something similar) you are pretty much in business

  12. #12
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    So I've been useing Squirt chain lube for two months on a brand new chain, rings, and cog. I'm sorry to report it doesn't keep my chain quiet for more than 17 to 20 miles on moderately dusty dry Nor Cal trails. And after the chain noise picks up, within a couple miles it becomes very loud in creaking and chirping when there is any minor cross chain alignment while climbing such as granny and middle ring lower gears.

    My 200 lbs ride weight is probably pushing the dry wax out of the chain faster than it would for a lighter rider. As I remember, Rainman is a much lighter weight rider than me.

    It works for me about the same as White Lighting, not as well as Pedro's Ice as I remember from years ago trying dry lubes previously. It's not a big hassle to stop and relube when the chain starts to sound up. But my long time favorite, Dumond Tech, lasts at least twice as long before chain noise would begin to pick up and then never allow the chain to become so loud in creaking and chirping.

    Like the other dry lubes Squirt is keeping the gears looking cleaner longer. After two months without cleaning the new cog's teeth are barely showing any dirt but the chain looks nearly as dirty as using a wet lube and wiping excess off each application.

    For lighter weight rider's it probably works much longer. Those little guys have all the advantages!

    I'm going back to using Dumond Tech wet lube.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by BitterDave
    Let me know if you find any local to where you are. I'm slowing working my way though a small bottle of the Dumonde lube, but will need a new bottle of lube sooner or later.
    I haven't seen it in the Fairfax bike shops. I got some small sample bottles at the Sea Otter then bought a 4 ounce bottle when in Moab a month ago. (I just posted a review below).

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by derby
    It works for me about the same as White Lighting, not as well as Pedro's Ice as I remember from years ago trying dry lubes previously. It's not a big hassle to stop and relube when the chain starts to sound up. But my long time favorite, Dumond Tech, lasts at least twice as long before chain noise would begin to pick up and then never allow the chain to become so loud in creaking and chirping.
    Similar experience here, it's substantially more expensive than WL, but I'm not convinced that it's really better. The main advantage seems to be that it's less prone to waxy buildup on the RD pulley cage. I do have a bottle of Pedro's Ice that I haven't tried yet though.

    As for wet lubes, I leave that for motorcycling. I haven't used them on my bicycles for quite a few years and I don't really care for going back to the black oily mess again.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by kestrel242
    As for wet lubes, I leave that for motorcycling....
    Always Bel-Ray dry lube on my street moto. Seems to work well enough with a 530 pitch chain for a few rides, the chain lasted more than 20k miles. Wet lubes spray too much all over my bike. Maybe I should try Bel-Ray on my mtb, but it's pretty sticky and might gum up the pulleys after a while.

  16. #16
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    I also use Bel-Ray wet lube on my Moto, it's good stuff, but does make a lot of mess.

    Sorry to hear that the Squirt lube didn't work out for you, but at least you tried it out. I'm still using it on the Mojo and all the bikes here.
    I like it. The Squirt works well for me. DT says he uses it on his bikes too, and I think he's a pretty big guy. I'm small and relatively light compared to most of you American riders, though.

    Rainman.
    It is inevitable ...

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by derby
    So I've been useing Squirt chain lube for two months on a brand new chain, rings, and cog. I'm sorry to report it doesn't keep my chain quiet for more than 17 to 20 miles on moderately dusty dry Nor Cal trails.
    Same here, I only get about 15-20 miles before the chain starts to rattle and sound crunchy. I like Squirt because it doesn't smell (I keep my bikes indoors), but in terms of performance it's only ok, nothing that special.

  18. #18
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    I ride in super dusty Tahoe/Truckee and Squirt is my favorite lube, mostly b/c it doesn't gum up. Maybe I wasn't cleaning off excess enough with other stuff (although I felt like I was).

    I haven't noticed the noise after 20 miles but I'll try to tune into it. As for me, I give it 2 thumbs up.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by BitterDave
    Same here, I only get about 15-20 miles before the chain starts to rattle and sound crunchy. I like Squirt because it doesn't smell (I keep my bikes indoors), but in terms of performance it's only ok, nothing that special.
    Well, even though it requires carrying some in my pack and reapplying when the chain gets noisy in 15 to 20 miles I'm still using Squirt.

    Like someone else mentioned it doesn't build up and gum up the sprockest and chain guides like some other dry lubes or wet lubes. I'm liking how much cleaner it is compared to anything else I've used.

    Wet ride conditions will be coming soon and I'm interested to see how it compares to a good wet lube for limiting muddy chain suck and overall chain/sprocket wear life.

  20. #20
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    I've started using motor oil, and get about 50 miles out of it before needing to reapply.
    Yeah it gums up, and collects dust, but it lubes great.

  21. #21
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    Squirt - the best I've ever used

    Quote Originally Posted by Rainman
    I have concluded a 5 month test/review of this lube in the New Products forum, if anyone is interested.


    Rainman.
    I just posted a 1 year review in the Lube reviews.

    Here's the details...

    Just completed a 1 year test of Squirt dry lube.

    In 2 weeks I'll have 1 year starting on a new drivetrain set of FSA rings, XT cogs and SRAM 971 chain using only Squirt dry lube.

    I'm amazed to say there is no more than 1/32 wear at most in 12 inches measuring various points around the chain. I really can't see any measurable wear, but there must be a little.

    I never cleaned my chain after putting it on new and cleaning off the grease that the chain came with. At first there was some increasingly loud chain noise after about 12 to 15 miles of light dusty spring season trail conditions, and I had to stop and give another dose of Squirt to the chain to ride further without noise. But after a few weeks the lube packed in and the chain broke in and I haven't noticed an excessively noisy chain in less than 25 miles.

    We had an especially muddy winter in NorCal coastal range this year. I expected this dry lube would cause chain suck worse than many prior years using Dumonde Tech. But besides a few minor sucks in both dry or muddy conditions while shifting to the granny no terminal suck ever occurred, unlike my experience with Dumonde Tech on the worse chain mud-caked days. I guess the Squirt dry lube packed inside the chain for many months without cleaning prevented mud from entering.

    I'm convinced Squirt is the best I've ever used. And it's the easiest to apply. No need to wipe off after application, there are no solvents "cleaning the chain" as it is applied. The excess wax flakes off while riding and with it surface dirt. My chain looks very dirty now, but my cogs look pretty clean compared to a wet lube, and this is after a year of never cleaning other than a dry brush a few times knocking dirt off. And unlike any other lube I've tried before, no measured wear that I could see using a 12" ruler. Wow!

  22. #22
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    No good Squirt... not for me...

    I've used a bunch of lubes over the years... I tried Squirt this winter in AZ riding and it just doesn't seem to hold up.
    The lube seems to be a dust magnet and it doesn't seem to stay on the chain for long periods of use.
    I clean my chain regularly and lube before every ride. I'm going to be going back to rock n' roll or something similar
    as they seem to work best for me.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ob1Hoagie
    I've used a bunch of lubes over the years... I tried Squirt this winter in AZ riding and it just doesn't seem to hold up.
    The lube seems to be a dust magnet and it doesn't seem to stay on the chain for long periods of use.
    I clean my chain regularly and lube before every ride. I'm going to be going back to rock n' roll or something similar
    as they seem to work best for me.
    If you look higher in this thread I almost quit using Squirt after a few rides due to the noise that developed after 15 miles. But I stayed with it because I wanted to find a dry lube that worked better than wet lube which is a frequent chore to keep clean.

    The key to Squirt working well is to not clean the chain between uses (or ever), and apply just before riding so the thick water based dry lube gets worked deep into the chain.

    Proof to me is Squirt has had by far the least chain wear or "stretch" over the same dusty and muddy year round conditions using the same brand of chain, plus I did more dusty sandy desert riding this year compared to most prior years. This is compared to Tri-Flow, White-Lightening, Pedros Ice, and Dumonde Tech (in increasing order of chain wear effectiveness).

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quattro
    I'm in SOCAL. I wanted something for winter and summer,(dry,dry dust and mud). I use K&N air filter lube spray. I clean with WD 40 and then spray it on the chain. I then wipe it off. It makes it through the long dry epic rides, and no chain suck this year in the mud(same chain and rings). I wanted something simple and easy. I use it for my air filter also.
    I'm 90% sure this is sarcastic, but it's done so well I can't be sure.
    Keep the Country country.

  25. #25
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    Thanks to you guys for trying something new and posting the results for all of us. Found the dealer in Canada (happens to be 3 hrs away from me) and ordered up a bottle. Should have it in a couple of days.

    Cheers,
    Straw
    Ease & Flow Where Ever I Go

  26. #26
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    I've been using Squirt for about 6 months and love it. Just like Derby, it didnít seem to hold up very well the first few rides. Especially if there is any residual petroleum based chain lube left on the chain. The cleaner your chain is for the initial application the sooner your results will improve. Once Squirt has fully embedded itself in your chain it works great. I now use it on all my bikes including my road bike.
    Mr_Mojorisen

  27. #27
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    Hmm, I might have to try Squirt again. I wasn't impressed with how long it lasted, but perhaps I didn't reapply it often enough. I'll try Squirt again once the original grease on my new chain wears out. I like Squirt because it doesn't smell and I keep my bikes indoors.

    I'm starting to think that the less you clean your chain/degrease, the longer it lasts.

  28. #28
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    I have been using only squirt for two years now. I have no plan to go back to anything else. I have seen the Longest drive train life that I have ever had. Here in fruita I have always used some kind of wax lube. Nothing holds up like Squirt.
    A never clean the chain the only thing I do is wipe the dust off before adding more. Now I'm the kind of guy that takes care of my bike after a ride never before. So Lube is always very dry before my next ride. I been out in rain an Snow and The Lube hang in there.
    " They May forget what you said, but they will never forget how you made them Feel"
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  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by straw
    Thanks to you guys for trying something new and posting the results for all of us. Found the dealer in Canada (happens to be 3 hrs away from me) and ordered up a bottle. Should have it in a couple of days.

    Cheers,
    Straw
    Who is the dealer in Canada that you got it from?

  30. #30
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    I prefer Squirt over any other chain lube I have tried (including T9, Triflow, Prolink, RocknRoll and White Lightning). It's extremely clean, it lasts long enough, never needs cleaning and is non-messy to apply. I've been using it for a year now.

    My second preference for a clean chain is RocknRoll, but that leaves more of a mess during application.

  31. #31
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    Canadian dealer

    Quote Originally Posted by xc71
    Who is the dealer in Canada that you got it from?
    Goggle Squirt Chain Lube and you will see "find a distributor." It's Brian from Podium Imports. email brian@podiumimports.ca or call 1-250-493-1144. He is in Pentiction BC

    Cheers
    Straw
    Ease & Flow Where Ever I Go

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by straw
    Goggle Squirt Chain Lube and you will see "find a distributor." It's Brian from Podium Imports. email brian@podiumimports.ca or call 1-250-493-1144. He is in Pentiction BC

    Cheers
    Straw
    Thanks Straw

  33. #33
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    Good job! Squirt Lube..

    I found the same in my own testing of this fine product. It really does work very well. It's the only lube I'll use on my bicycle chains now.


    Rainman.
    It is inevitable ...

  34. #34
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    I've been trying Squirt on one of my bikes for about 500 miles now. I followed all the instructions. I'm finding my chain is noisier than with Boeshield or Prolink. I like it because of the no cleaning required, but I don't find it lasts very long before the drivetrain makes the grinding sound. I've been riding for 30some years, and I've never heard anything like this. with dyno lube, you'd apply more, but with this, noise seems to be the norm.

    I'm not sure if drivetrain quietness has anything to do with longevity though. I reapply sometimes even after 40 road miles. The stuff that flies off tends t osplatter the rear wheel, which I use compressed air to clean off. Compressed air helps to clear off any buildup on the chain too.

    For those that have used it for a long time, is your drivetrain noisier than usual?

    Does it make any difference in longevity of the chain, rings or cogs?

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Garthr
    I've been trying Squirt on one of my bikes for about 500 miles now. I followed all the instructions. I'm finding my chain is noisier than with Boeshield or Prolink. I like it because of the no cleaning required, but I don't find it lasts very long before the drivetrain makes the grinding sound. I've been riding for 30some years, and I've never heard anything like this. with dyno lube, you'd apply more, but with this, noise seems to be the norm.

    I'm not sure if drivetrain quietness has anything to do with longevity though. I reapply sometimes even after 40 road miles. The stuff that flies off tends t osplatter the rear wheel, which I use compressed air to clean off. Compressed air helps to clear off any buildup on the chain too.

    For those that have used it for a long time, is your drivetrain noisier than usual?

    Does it make any difference in longevity of the chain, rings or cogs?
    After a full year of exclusive use with one chain and set of sprockets, my chain had nearly no wear. I've never had near that low wear. This is including 4 or 5 months with muddy conditions. At least 2500 miles off road in one year, climbing about 6000 vertical feet per week on average.

    Squirt did get noisy quickly at first, starting with a well cleaned new chain. But it gradually quieted down for a longer period as the wax built up. The noise reminds me not to cross chain for long periods. Wet lubes are quieter at first but pack dirt quickly if ridden off road.

    The trick is to not clean any off, let it build up, the extra will flake off, only wipe off drips on the outside of the chain after applying, and apply an hour or more before riding (although I rarely applied it early).

  36. #36
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    Thanks Derby.

    My last application was after I blew of the some of the buildup with compressed air. Instead of leaving it to dry as I normally do, I rode it still wet. It didn't last so long. I'll apply some more and see how it goes.... letting it dry first of course!

  37. #37
    MountainGoat aka OldGoat
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    Keep us posted Garthr. I want to try it when my Dumonde runs out.
    Vote with your feet.
    No bike is perfect!

  38. #38
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    Squirt is my favorite yet. The only downside is if you live where it is wet, you will have to apply quite often. Colorado is dry and it attract no dirt and lubes quites well. I reapply every 5-6 rides and it keeps things quiet and clean.

  39. #39
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    I think what caused so much drivetrain noise was blowing off the Squirt with the compressed air, then applying and riding directly afterward. The lube didn't have time to set, so much of it was lost during the ride. So .... I went back to the method I first used when I started.

    I apply it liberally from the top of the bottom part of the chain(technically the inside), one section at a time. (One section is the chain from the bottom pulley to the chainring) After I apply it, I roll my fingers back and forth to move he rollers a bit and work it in. I rotate the crank and do each section until complete. Then I slowly run the chain backward in each cog and ring, just enough to get some on all the surfaces. I don't know if this is necessary, but I do that instead of having all the buildup on the one cog when I applied it.

    So far after 40 miles, it's been fine again. The question becomes when to apply it again? Do I go by noise? How muchh Squirt is too much? I had reapplied it fairly often, maybe every 40-50 dry miles or so. Maybe it was too much.... I was getting some build up, and the chunks were sticking to my rear rim. That's why I blew it off with compressed air, to get rid it. There's no issue with blowing it off, just treat the chain liberally as you would when new, letting it dry before riding, and it will be good.

  40. #40
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    Update on my last application ..... I got about 125 dry miles out of it before needing more lube. That's pretty good!

  41. #41
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    Re: Chain noise
    Any squeaking, popping, grinding noise that comes from a chain means only one thing...
    Metal to metal contact. Perhaps it's just the sidelinks making contact, which doesn't really mean the chain is getting longer [just more flexible], but that 'sound' probably means that the pin is also metal to metal and wearing the chain to cause a length increase. The sound is actually metal galling, fretting, etc. It's not good. Denial is not an option. So you have only two choices, stop to lube the chain or just turn up the iPod if you're playing tunes.
    If you need sleep aids, read the links below... -B
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fretting
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galling

  42. #42
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    I switched to Squirt several months ago and love it. It's thinner that Ice Wax, but thicker than White Lightning.
    Keeps the drivetrain clean.
    Santa Cruz Tallboy
    Moonlander

  43. #43
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    I decided to give squirt a second chance. I ride mostly in northern California around the Marin area, so it's not particularly dusty. I cleaned the chain (only the first time) and replied Squirt every 10 miles or so for the first few rides. Even after several applications, Squirt starts to wear out around 10-15 miles and by 20 miles it's pretty much gone. In the Sierra area (dusty), it only lasted about 12 miles. A month ago I went for a ride in damp (but not wet) conditions. The attached pic is what my chain looked like the day after the ride.

    Not sure how the rest of you guys are able to get Squirt to last so long, but it's just not working for me.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Squirt Chain Lube ...-squirt.jpg  


  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by BitterDave
    I decided to give squirt a second chance. I ride mostly in northern California around the Marin area, so it's not particularly dusty. I cleaned the chain (only the first time) and replied Squirt every 10 miles or so for the first few rides. Even after several applications, Squirt starts to wear out around 10-15 miles and by 20 miles it's pretty much gone. In the Sierra area (dusty), it only lasted about 12 miles. A month ago I went for a ride in damp (but not wet) conditions. The attached pic is what my chain looked like the day after the ride.

    Not sure how the rest of you guys are able to get Squirt to last so long, but it's just not working for me.

    Are you allowing the Squirt to completely dry before riding? I tried it once by applying and riding immediately after, and I got about the same 10-15 miles out of it.

    The key is too apply liberally, rotate the chain backwards a few times to work it in, then let it sit for at least a few hours or more to dry, depending on humidity. If you've done all that and still only get 15 miles, Id have a hard time believing it.

  45. #45
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    I have been trying Squirt recently on my road bike and one of my two mountain bikes with good results so far.

    Noise, some people have said their drivetrain is louder, but on my road bike where I notice it easier than a mountain bike, my drivetrain is definitely quieter with Squirt than the oil lube I was previously using. I went out in near freezing temps last week and everything worked great, I was afraid it would be slow to shift but all was good. After the initial application. Only 106 road miles with Squirt, but no sign of needing another application, I won't apply more just for the sake of it, when I hear it needs it or performance indicates then I'll reapply.

    My singlespeed is the bike I'm riding more these days in the dirt so it is the one I decided to test with Squirt. After three rides on it, everything is going great. Some of the wax is flaking off as seen in other pictures, the chain is clean and seems to be happy. I'll probably re-apply more on this bike before it tells me to, with the harsher environment mountain biking I'd prefer to get a bigger buildup on this chain.

    All in all I'm very impressed with Squirt lube after several rides with it, I'll keep using it and hope to report continued success.
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  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Garthr
    Are you allowing the Squirt to completely dry before riding? I tried it once by applying and riding immediately after, and I got about the same 10-15 miles out of it.

    The key is too apply liberally, rotate the chain backwards a few times to work it in, then let it sit for at least a few hours or more to dry, depending on humidity. If you've done all that and still only get 15 miles, Id have a hard time believing it.
    I usually lube the chain the night before the ride. I apply squirt to the "inside" of the chain (the top of the chain when it's below the chainstay) until I see the lube work itself to the "outside". Then I usually ride around or backpedal for about a minute to work everything in.

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by BitterDave
    I usually lube the chain the night before the ride. I apply squirt to the "inside" of the chain (the top of the chain when it's below the chainstay) until I see the lube work itself to the "outside". Then I usually ride around or backpedal for about a minute to work everything in.

    Okay ...... I wonder how liberally you are applying it? I apply it the same way as you, but my chain is completely soaked in lube..... just to the point where some even drips to the ground. I've head of some people even thinning the Squirt of a bit by adding some water to the bottle, as it is pretty thick, and in cooler temps is gets thicker. I put my bottle in my pocket for about about 10 minutes prior to application here in the Fall/Winter. The temps in my garage are in the mid 50's. I've been using outside with temps in the 20's. Squirt being warmed seems to get in the chain better.

  48. #48
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    Swapped over to Squirt, am LOVING it. The Mojo HD's 1x10 drive train purrs along, and stays ultra clean, ride after ride, week after week.

    Time spent previously cleaning the drivetrain (tedious job!) now spent riding - can't knock that

    Posted a little review of Squirt at:
    http://digitalhippie.net/2011/01/22/...ased-dry-lube/
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Squirt Chain Lube ...-bikinventions_squirt_wax_lube_small.jpg  


  49. #49
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    Squirt Lube Is The Best Out There

    Not sure how the rest of you guys are able to get Squirt to last so long, but it's just not working for me.[/QUOTE]

    Here's the deal, if you are having issues with Squirt you have to use the stuff properly. The reason you've got a rusty chain is the same reason you would have rust on your chain if you missed spots with any other lube. Here is the proper application process.

    Of Course degrease, Squirt is waxes emulsified in water, which means it does not seperate likw all the other wax lubes out there. This also means you must have a dry drive chain before applting as more water thins the lube and it will not stay on as well and dry. Apply the lube liberally and what I like to do isrun the chain through my fingers to spread the lube all over all the pins plates and rollers. Do NOT use a rag as this takes the wax off and you want as much as possible to penetrate the chain links before it drys. Allow it to completely dry the apply another coating if you like, let id dry, then NEVER clean your drive train again, just knock any excess down with a soft wire brush. I get 40-80 miles per MTB ride with Squirt Lube, it's amazing stuff. Probably 80% of the knowledgable riders in my area ride Squirt and this includes MANY top pros including Jay Henry, Mike Kloser, Ned Overend, Travis Brown , Josiah Middaugh, Jake Wells and so many more, Squirt works amazing when used properly, just DO NOT take it off the drive chain once you start using it! Leave the protective waxes on, this is what lubricates and repels dirt...

  50. #50
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  51. #51
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    All this yak about Squirt, why?

    Some of you were happy it lasted 125 miles, with Chain L I get 400 plus.

    All of you who have used Squirt says it works best if you reapply it frequently, really? with Chain L I only have to apply it once in the 400 miles and use only one coating not two as with Squirt. This means all you Squirt users will go through a $10 bottle of the stuff at least 10 times faster then I will with Chain L...gee I wonder which is cheaper to use?

    Some of your Squirt users were reporting that your chain is noisier now but thought that was ok...NO THAT'S NOT OK! Noise is a symptom of metal to metal contact which means your chain is wearing out faster. That's like saying you found a new oil for your car but your car lifters and bearing rattle more but that must be ok!! Think guys. With Chain L my chain never makes a noise. But before I switched to Chain L I use Finish Line Teflon Dry, that stuff lasted about 250 miles with no noise but got black as coal, but even Finish Line Teflon Dry is better then Squirt. Finish Line does get black, Chain L runs cleaner though the chain probably will not be as shiny and new looking as Squirt, but I don't care about the chain looking shiny and new, I care about how long the chain will last. In the old days I use to use melted Paraffin wax in a can and my chains were very clean, but the chain would rattle after about 60 miles or so; then I switched to TriFlow (a teflon based lube) and the noise went away and my chains lasted longer.

    There are plenty of other lubes out there that are better then Squirt, like Prolink Gold Pro, or Rock and Roll, take your pick but don't pick Squirt. Wax has never been an effective lubricant, they just keep repackaging it and attaching super sounding words to market junk...kind of like Bose and other infomercials on TV.

  52. #52
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    Tried Rock and Roll, Triflow too. Come to think about it, have tried a lot of lubes over a life time of riding. Squirt has worked well for me the last 6 months or so. Might try another lube in the future, might not. It's not life and death yeah, and whichever lube you use the drivetrain will still wear out at some point.

    YMMV

  53. #53
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    To each their own Froze, if you don't like squirt , without trying it, it doesn't mean anything. I've got two bikes with identical drivetrains, one using squirt, one using Dino lubes like pro-link, etc. Drive train wear has been less on the squirt one. The bonus is it is truly a no clean required lube. All Dino lubes still require a chain cleaning in solvent no matter the self cleaning claims, based on my riding experience. When fine grit gets in your chain from Dino lubes, there is only one way to get it out, as reapplying more doesn't really work...... it needs cleaned.

    Squirt cost more? Factor in no cleaning of the chain anymore. We're talking chump change here....LOL......I'll gladly pay $10 a year for a bottle of lube that I use. Complaining about the cost of a lube, is just an excuse to complain.

  54. #54
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    I put Squirt lube on my girlfriends bike recently. She pretty much rides along paved bike trails near the ocean. After about a month of riding (maybe 50 miles), the side plates are dark orange-brown from what appears to be rust (from the salt air???). I guess since you aren't supposed to wipe the chain when using Squirt lube, you don't really end up coating the side plates that well. The chain did stay clean and seemed well lubed, but it sure doesn't seem to offer much corrosion resistance.

    I'm also thinking that Squirt seems to work better on chains that aren't nickle coated. Perhaps the nickle coating is too slick for Squirt to stick on to. Shrug... just a thought. I don't get much mileage out of Squirt. Rock n Roll seems to be working well for me lately, but I don't know if it lubricates as well as Dumonde Tech.

  55. #55
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    you aren't supposed to wipe squirt down, apply and let dry, its self cleaning after that...the chain also needs to be completely stripped of existing grease or it wont stay on the chain
    can imagine salty air wouldn't be protected much by a wax lube

  56. #56
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    Was has no anti-rust properties as an oil has. So good luck with the rust issue.

  57. #57
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    long long term - still using squirt?

    Resuscitating this thread to ask how you are all feeling about this lube a couple years on.

    I was motivated to try squirt by this thread oh so long ago. I've found it to be a good product, and am still using it pretty happily.

    Curious who is still using it, and who has moved on, and to what?

  58. #58
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    Yeah I'm still using Squirt, just bought a new workshop size bottle the other week in fact.

    Squirt's archilles heal for me is that it's not great in wet conditions. There isn't much wet weather where I live though and generally I don't go out riding in wet conditions anyway.

    Biggest upside remains the minimal drivetrain cleaning etc. To lube the chain I just take the chain off, with the quick link that's a few seconds, hang it up, lube it, leave it to dry, put it back on usually the next morning. Done this way... well I haven't cleaned the drivetrain for close to half a year now I guess and it's all clean. Only ocassionally a bit of goop builds up between the 11 tooth and the next on the rear, just clean that out with a fork from the kitchen drawer
    Last edited by digitalhippie13; 06-23-2012 at 12:49 AM.

  59. #59
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    Still using it on both road and MTB in Phoenix AZ, very happy with it several years later.
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  60. #60
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    Been using Squirt since day 1 on my HD, about 1.5 years now. Overall I'm happy with it. I've never had to clean the chain beyond running it through a rag every once in a while, the stuff just does not attract much dirt. I'm only getting about 20 miles per application though. Squirt just does not deal very well with water. My local trails have a few stream crossing deep enough to submerge the lower pully of the rear derailleur. After pedaling through a stream I often get chain noise before the ride is over. Without water contact, I find it lasts a lot longer.

  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikemikemike View Post
    Resuscitating this thread to ask how you are all feeling about this lube a couple years on.

    I was motivated to try squirt by this thread oh so long ago. I've found it to be a good product, and am still using it pretty happily.

    Curious who is still using it, and who has moved on, and to what?
    I'm into my 3rd year using Squirt. I've gotten so much longer measured chain wear by far.

    I've delayed my yearly late spring drive-train replacement, I'm on my current chain now 1.25 years after trips to the dusty gritty deserts, and many muddy rides last winter. And I'm applying it less often, unless muddy condition, to see if that matters. Squirt works better in muddy conditions than any wet lube I've used.

    I believe chain life wear is the best indication if a chain lube works well.

    Maybe there are other water emulsified wax lubes now which could protect the chain as well in wet, muddy, and dusty dry conditions; as far as I know Squirt was the first.

    The grainy sandy minerals in dust and mud or metal to metal is what wears the chain. Oil and oil solvent based dry lubes absorb dust, mud, and water, and the dirty oil paste grinds the metal, and the water absorbed in oil rusts the chain. Dried wax does too, but far slower than an oil or oil saturated softer wax lube. The water emulsified wax in Squirt is not liquified by solvents when it is applied, the water in Squirt may dry slower than a solvent so apply about 30 minutes before riding for best endurance, but the Squirt wax is never soft to absorb mud, dust and water.

    I won't be downgrading back to Dumond Tech blue, the prior best all condition lube I had used previously.

  62. #62
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    still using myself as well, generally reapplying @ 30-40 miles, or if i forget, when i start to hear some noise...no need to wipe it down or remove the chain for me, though
    I also dont ride any wet stuff other than the occasional creek crossing, fwiw

  63. #63
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    I was using Squirt for a while and switched to Chain-L.

    There is pro and cons of each and I might go back to Squirt for my new bike.

    Squirt needs to be re-applied more frequently but is a very clean lube and the drivetrain stays quite clean. I found after a creek or stream crossing the chain would be very noisy with lots of crunchy noises. I also found it required several applications on a new clean chain to build a layer of wax for it to be quiet. Depending on conditions I would need to reapply every few rides which is a simple process.

    Chain L is a little tricky to apply as it is quite thick, but run it under warm tap water and drop on each link eases the process. As it is a wet lube it does collect a bit of dust after initial application but thats it, just wipe the chain down every few rides keeps any build up to a minimum. Drivetrain runs super smooth and only need to reapply once you hear drivetrain noise, which can be months! Biggest downside is the smell! Also as it lasts so long a bottle last ages, with Squirt I would go through at least two standard bottles in a year.

    As far as chain wear I have not noticed any signifance difference between the two, maybe a slight edge towards the Chain L. I have tried lots of chain lubes over the years and these two are my favorite so far, both with their pro and cons. There is some new ones on the market I would'nt mind trying but trying to use up all my Chain L first!

  64. #64
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    Been using this for a bit over a year and still very happy with it.. I actually apply after every ride.. I do a nice coating on the inside of the chain-- run it through the pullies a few times and then let it dry.. After a few rides i do both inside and outside-- and run that through the pullies.. Chain is clean-- no noise-- and is only at .65 on the chain wear tool..
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  65. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by clewttu View Post
    generally reapplying @ 30-40 miles, or if i forget, when i start to hear some noise...
    yeah that's pretty much the same for me too, after every couple of rides depending on conditions and length, or when I start to hear some noise.

    Some new trails were thick with powdery dust a while back, chain needed re lubing after each ride. Generally though that's not the case.

    I do have one of those Grunge chain brush tools - very rarely (when I remember) I'll run it down the chain when it's off the bike... I guess to make me feel like I'm doing something to keep it clean

  66. #66
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    thanks for these thoughts. Interesting that no defectors chimed in. I agree, it's kept me happy too. Switched to wet lube for a spell, but didn't like having to clean up the chain so much.

    Thought of this when re-lubing 40 miles in to a ride the other day and realizing that it's the first time my chain has made noise in a long long time...

  67. #67
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    Tried Squirt extensively. Like most clean-ish lubes, it just doesn't last very long before the chain starts getting noisy. Dupont makes a spray-on teflon wax lube that works just as well, and sells in a big can for about $4 at Lowes. Drip bottles are also available, and it is astounding how similar that stuff seems to Squirt.

    I ride long, and pedal pretty hard. My best luck at long-lasting lube -- after a ridiculous amount of experimenting -- is still Finish Line Wet, with just a pinch of mineral spirits added in to help get it into the chain without having to warm the stuff up.
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  68. #68
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    Still using it. Great stuff.

    I have found a way to extend it without reapplying it other than every other ride. I take a torch and spin the cranks, making the chain move past the flame for about 30 seconds.
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  69. #69
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    kinda seems like a light buildup of old chain lube and muck on the chain and cassette keep everything shifting better and running quieter. I know when I clean my whole drivetrain its way noisier and crunchy (even after lubing it) then one that has some miles on it and has been only wiped down and relubed. I can see the buildup on all of hte gears and on the chain links. I almost think that this gooey gunk actually helps the drivetrain out? (within reason)

  70. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gregg K View Post
    Still using it. Great stuff.

    I have found a way to extend it without reapplying it other than every other ride. I take a torch and spin the cranks, making the chain move past the flame for about 30 seconds.
    Interesting. So, you heat the chain and then apply, or heat the chain after applying?

  71. #71
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    Still using Squirt as well. I love being able to touch my drive train without getting black lube all over my hands that won't wash off. I never need to clean my drive-train except for the wax boogers that accumulate on the chain rings.

    On long rides I carry a small bottle of it with me in case I need to relube.

  72. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yody View Post
    kinda seems like a light buildup of old chain lube and muck on the chain and cassette keep everything shifting better and running quieter. I know when I clean my whole drivetrain its way noisier and crunchy (even after lubing it) then one that has some miles on it and has been only wiped down and relubed. I can see the buildup on all of hte gears and on the chain links. I almost think that this gooey gunk actually helps the drivetrain out? (within reason)
    I totally agree the dirty paste build up inside a wet lubed chain keeps it quite a long time. That paste is fine grained minerals, residual dust build up, that absorbs more oil than a thoroughly clean chain can, and the oil takes longer to evaporate. A cleaned chain and fresh wet light viscosity lube is louder and my not shift any better. A thick viscosity wet lube like Dumond-Teck (blue), Chain-L, and chain-saw oil, is quiet longer than a light lube, but harder to clean thoroughly.

    I believe wax build up from "dry" lubes, particularly the harder Squit water emulsified wax, makes a much better and more protective build up inside the chain compared to dirt paste. This seems reasonable, but I'm not a physics scientist.

    But no, the gooey paste grinds and wears the chain rapidly. It may be better performing temporarily than a clean and freshly wet lubed chain. But the life of the drive-train is shorter than a daily cleaned chain and wet lube, or the longest protection possible from never cleaning the chain and using Squirt (or similar water based wax lube, if available now).

  73. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikemikemike View Post
    Interesting. So, you heat the chain and then apply, or heat the chain after applying?
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  74. #74
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    Great, but do you apply the squirt before or after this? I'm guessing after? While the chain is still warm? What does this accomplish? Probably won't make this much effort, but curious.

    Quote Originally Posted by Gregg K View Post
    CAUTION- 2011 Tour de France content.

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  75. #75
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    Oh, I forgot to mention that part. I don't add any lube. What it does is before the next ride, it redistributes the lube. If you wiggle the chain on it's axis, you can tell that it's dry. Run the heat over the chain, and you can see that the chain no longer has metal to metal.

    Also, it sounds like I'm really blasting it with the torch. But it's more of a low flame over about five revolutions of the chain.

    This way I don't apply lube every ride, yet I get the benefit of... argh, this is turning into a diary here.
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  76. #76
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    old thread.. new Squirt user...

    i just wiped my chain clean with cloth and applied squirt liberally and let dry. hit the trail after 2 hours of drying..

    my question is, should i have degreased/cleaned my chain before applying squirt?
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  77. #77
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    Squirt Chain Lube ...

    Hmm, this sounds promising. I've gradually improved my drivetrain performance and chain life over the years by experimenting with various methods of cleaning and lubing. I'm ~150lbs with gear, 1x9 drivetrain, FS, mostly dry & dusty trail, try to stay out of the wet & mud.

    During the last year or so, upon getting a new chain, I will run the chain thru a rag w/ a little isopropyl alcohol until there is no apparent factory lube on the outside of the chain. The goal here is keeping all the factory lube in between the rollers while eliminating the stuff on the outside that attracts grit like no other. Before each ride I tend to run the chain thru a rag a few times until it is clean, making sure to hit the bends at the jockey pulleys where the rollers are more exposed. Using this method, the factory lube has lasted for probably 200 miles or so before breaking down enough that I must add lube (anyone tried Shimano PTFE lube?). However, as the factory lube breaks down and is forced out of the rollers it naturally migrates to the cassette, jockey wheels, and chainring. So I have to be pretty diligent about keeping that clean too.

    I'm interested in this Squirt stuff tho because it should result in a very clean drivetrain and protect from the dusty & sandy conditions here. I've tried some other waxed based stuff like White Lighting (never seemed consistent because of separation) but gave up on it. This Shimano PTFE lube is amazingly quiet initially and pretty clean. However, I have only started using it this season with a few rides and a race.

    Anyway, I might buy a new chain to test the Squirt. I know that these wax-based lubes rely on a chain that is clean of grease and solvents, especially from the get-go. What do you all think about throwing the new chain in an ultrasonic bath with degreaser or mineral spirits? I have access to this little gadget at work and am wondering if it will allow the wax to really penetrate and stick between the rollers. Thoughts?

  78. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by conekilr View Post
    Hmm, this sounds promising. I've gradually improved my drivetrain performance and chain life over the years by experimenting with various methods of cleaning and lubing. I'm ~150lbs with gear, 1x9 drivetrain, FS, mostly dry & dusty trail, try to stay out of the wet & mud.

    During the last year or so, upon getting a new chain, I will run the chain thru a rag w/ a little isopropyl alcohol until there is no apparent factory lube on the outside of the chain. The goal here is keeping all the factory lube in between the rollers while eliminating the stuff on the outside that attracts grit like no other. Before each ride I tend to run the chain thru a rag a few times until it is clean, making sure to hit the bends at the jockey pulleys where the rollers are more exposed. Using this method, the factory lube has lasted for probably 200 miles or so before breaking down enough that I must add lube (anyone tried Shimano PTFE lube?). However, as the factory lube breaks down and is forced out of the rollers it naturally migrates to the cassette, jockey wheels, and chainring. So I have to be pretty diligent about keeping that clean too.

    I'm interested in this Squirt stuff tho because it should result in a very clean drivetrain and protect from the dusty & sandy conditions here. I've tried some other waxed based stuff like White Lighting (never seemed consistent because of separation) but gave up on it. This Shimano PTFE lube is amazingly quiet initially and pretty clean. However, I have only started using it this season with a few rides and a race.

    Anyway, I might buy a new chain to test the Squirt. I know that these wax-based lubes rely on a chain that is clean of grease and solvents, especially from the get-go. What do you all think about throwing the new chain in an ultrasonic bath with degreaser or mineral spirits? I have access to this little gadget at work and am wondering if it will allow the wax to really penetrate and stick between the rollers. Thoughts?
    kind of over-the-top compared to this simple video:Mountain bike chain degreasing maintenance - YouTube but heck, if you the gadgets readily available why not.
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  79. #79
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    My wife and I switched to Squirt Lube about 3 years ago after using various oil lubes and White Lightning and I love it. I do the maintenance on our bikes and I love how easy it is to clean and lube our chains.
    I too also wondered if I should clean a new chain before applying Squirt. I did a lot of reading and boy is there lots of stuff out there on that subject. In the end I talked to my lbs mechanic about it. He said that on cheap chains the oil is very thick and should be removed. However on higher end chains the factory lube does not need to be removed. In our case we are using xt and xtr chains so I have never bothered to clean them before using Squirt.
    We change our chains as wear dictates, which usually is once a year. We both do about 80 rides a year in all kinds of conditions. My wife's bike is a 2010 model and I did change her cassette and front rings mid 2012 season. So 2 1/2 seasons of riding seems good to me.
    Bottom line is that I love the ease of using Squirt Lube plus I have found their customer service to be awesome. Hope this helps.
    Cheers
    Ease & Flow Where Ever I Go

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    Quote Originally Posted by straw View Post
    My wife and I switched to Squirt Lube about 3 years ago after using various oil lubes and White Lightning and I love it. I do the maintenance on our bikes and I love how easy it is to clean and lube our chains.
    I too also wondered if I should clean a new chain before applying Squirt. I did a lot of reading and boy is there lots of stuff out there on that subject. In the end I talked to my lbs mechanic about it. He said that on cheap chains the oil is very thick and should be removed. However on higher end chains the factory lube does not need to be removed. In our case we are using xt and xtr chains so I have never bothered to clean them before using Squirt.
    We change our chains as wear dictates, which usually is once a year. We both do about 80 rides a year in all kinds of conditions. My wife's bike is a 2010 model and I did change her cassette and front rings mid 2012 season. So 2 1/2 seasons of riding seems good to me.
    Bottom line is that I love the ease of using Squirt Lube plus I have found their customer service to be awesome. Hope this helps.
    Cheers
    thanks for the input. my RF PRO has an XT drivetrain and im thinking i have an XT appropriate chain, therefore like you, i dont think i need to clean my chain which is good news! my LBS shop is closed and i need a master link pliers.. .
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    Squirt Chain Lube ...

    Quote Originally Posted by bapski View Post
    kind of over-the-top compared to this simple video:Mountain bike chain degreasing maintenance - YouTube but heck, if you the gadgets readily available why not.
    Haha yep, I tend to go over-the-top sometimes but it really would be as simple as throwing the chain in the bath, flipping it on, setting the timer, and walking away. Although, I've previously used the method that you posted the video to.

    The ultra-sonic gadget is pretty small and I think it's from Harbor Freight so nothing too fancy. Good for cleaning cassettes and such too.

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    Squirt Chain Lube ...

    Couldn't wait for master link pliers to take off my chain to soak in mineral spirits. Since the chain, On my RUMBLEFISH is fairly new and has had only one application of T9 and single coat of Squirt yesterday I just decided to just coat it with squirt but this time with two coats.

    Not quite the same story with my SUPERFLY chain as it has had several coats of T9. So I guess I'd have to soak it overnight in mineral spirits?
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    I am a disappointed user of squirt lube and this is because after starting using squirt, my chain broke 3 times (in a total of 6-7 rides)!!!
    I followed instructions to the letter before applying for the fist time.

    I have contacted in2dust.co.uk but since 15 July i have had no reply back.

    I also think that what they claim about the chain not attracting girt is not true. Just look at the photo of my last broken chain. It is full of girt (i ride dry dusty rocky trails). You should also see the jockey wheels! Much worse compared to other chain lubes.

    So thumbs down to squirt. I have mailed them again and asked for refund since squirt has cost me about 50 euros (squirt=10euros, 3 chain links=10 euros, new XT chain=28 euros). Lets see what and IF they reply!!
    Squirt Chain Lube ...-img_20130820_205118.jpg

  84. #84
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    doesnt look like you cleaned all the grease off first

  85. #85
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    I would complain to Shimano, a lube isn't going to cause a chain to break like that. Shimano should be replacing that chain for you.

  86. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by d-bug View Post
    I would complain to Shimano, a lube isn't going to cause a chain to break like that. Shimano should be replacing that chain for you.
    Yeah, this has nothing to do with the chain lube. The chain lube will not have any effect on the structural integrity of the chain.

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    You should try a SRAM chain - I bet your brakes were all due to those stupid pins that Shimano uses. I just use a master link and I haven't had trouble w/ their chains but the pins never work right for me.

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    Quote Originally Posted by clewttu View Post
    doesnt look like you cleaned all the grease off first
    I cleaned the chain very thoroughly before applying squirt for the first time. I think this is why the chain broke. The squirt did not penetrate the links/pins very well.

    Quote Originally Posted by d-bug
    I would complain to Shimano, a lube isn't going to cause a chain to break like that. Shimano should be replacing that chain for you.
    Quote Originally Posted by neilether
    Yeah, this has nothing to do with the chain lube. The chain lube will not have any effect on the structural integrity of the chain.
    I dont think its a coincidence that chain started breaking after using squirt. Chain was 3-4 months old. I am into MTB for 7 years now and i have NEVER broken a chain. And now 3 times in 7 rides?

    Let me also clarify that the broken likns were the original chain pins and not the spare ones included with the chain

  89. #89
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    A lube didn't 'penetrate the links and pins' causing your chain to break multiple times just like that huh? It's not surprising you haven't heard back from in2dust.co.uk...

    As for attracting grit - how did you apply Squirt and did you give it time to set before riding?

    Here's what I do with Squirt - and it's worked great for the last three years (no broken chains either in those years, go figure!):

    - Take chain off bike (KMC Missing Link makes this quick and easy by hand)
    - Hang chain somewhere and apply lube
    - Leave until lube has set (goes clear). I leave it overnight
    - Put chain back on bike

    Do it this way and occasionally there is a small build up of goop between the smallest two cogs on the cassette, but other than than everything else stays pretty well clean months on end (terrain here is also rocky/dusty)

  90. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by digitalhippie13 View Post
    Here's what I do with Squirt......
    Thanks for your advice, however i ve had enough of squirt. I am not using it again.
    As far as girt is concerned, i applied squirt for the first time on the chain while off the bike. I let it dry and applied again, just like described in the instructions. I let it dry before riding.
    Quote Originally Posted by digitalhippie13 View Post
    A lube didn't 'penetrate the links and pins' causing your chain to break multiple times just like that huh? It's not surprising you haven't heard back from in2dust.co.uk...
    Are you being ironic or you had a similar experience with in2dust?

  91. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by algian View Post
    Are you being ironic or you had a similar experience with in2dust?
    I doubt any lube distributor or lube company would refund $ for side plate failure as shown in the pic. A chain manufacturer or wherever you bought the chain from might replace it though IMO. Fwiw I've had a great run with KMC chains for years.

    Good luck!

  92. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by digitalhippie13 View Post
    I doubt any lube distributor or lube company would refund $ for side plate failure as shown in the pic. A chain manufacturer or wherever you bought the chain from might replace it though IMO. Fwiw I've had a great run with KMC chains for years.

    Good luck!
    I am only asking for a refund on the cost of squirt

  93. #93
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    squirt doesn't look like that on your chain if you properly clean the previous grease off, been using it for years now
    but as stated, that breakage isnt squirts fault, somewhere in the poor chain/poor shifting spectrum iyam

  94. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by algian View Post
    I am only asking for a refund on the cost of squirt
    If you truly thought that the chain lube was the cause of your broken chain, why wouldn't you ask for a new chain too? This IS a coincidence. Nothing to do with the lube.

  95. #95
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    For Squirt converts (like me): Blue Sky Cycling has 4 oz bottles of Squirt for $2.98. I bought 4, that's such a great price.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ob1Hoagie View Post
    I've used a bunch of lubes over the years... I tried Squirt this winter in AZ riding and it just doesn't seem to hold up.
    The lube seems to be a dust magnet and it doesn't seem to stay on the chain for long periods of use.
    I clean my chain regularly and lube before every ride. I'm going to be going back to rock n' roll or something similar
    as they seem to work best for me.
    I was surprised by your saying Squirt was a dust magnet until I read that you lube before every ride.
    Squirt is a dry lube, you have to let it dry before using it. It works best if you re-lube after a ride so it can dry, once it's dry it won't attract dust.

    I tried it and like it a lot. I did find there was an initial period where an application didn't last as long and would gum up the spaces between the cogs but now that it has worked itself in an application seems to last about 4-5 hours of riding. The chain runs really clean too, even in the really dusty conditions here in Alberta.

  97. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by xc71 View Post
    Who is the dealer in Canada that you got it from?
    Mountain Equipment Coop

  98. #98
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    I don't know one person who runs anything other then a KMC chain. I've run them dry and had minimal shifting issues with a little noise. I don't ride aggressive, nor do I ride casual, sometimes I'll stand on the bigger rings in climbs. I've used KMC since I can remember(it's all bob bicycles would recommend) and can't remember any binding or breaking when riding either BMX or MTB.
    I drive more when the streets need repairs! -'95 ZJ

  99. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by agoura_biker View Post
    For Squirt converts (like me): Blue Sky Cycling has 4 oz bottles of Squirt for $2.98. I bought 4, that's such a great price.
    damn! this thread reminded me i needed some, so i bought locally cuz i couldnt find any deals online...stocking up on some at that price

  100. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by agoura_biker View Post
    For Squirt converts (like me): Blue Sky Cycling has 4 oz bottles of Squirt for $2.98. I bought 4, that's such a great price.
    Thanks, I just ordered 15.
    I got some bad ideas in my head.

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