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  1. #1
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    Reputation: Irrenarzt's Avatar
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    So she finally came in last night, some Q's

    My Mojo fianlly arrive last night and I spent the majority of the evening with the 3M leading edge tape. That **** is amazing as it can conform to some curvy surfaces without bubbling with the proper manipulation. Still some more taping to go but the bulk is done. I had one big chip in the paint upon arrival and I took a picture but they included touch up paint so I'll work on that later.

    My questions: The little black cable sleeve clip thingees. What to do with these?

    I'm gonna be running a Cane Creek IS-8 headset and the frame came with the "cups" pressed in I was told. However, it is not making sense how the bearings couple with these. It looks like they just sit on them with half the bearing exposed. This can't be correct. Does anyone have a pic of how this headset should look installed? Any suggestions are appreciated.

    I'll post pics when she's all assembled and ready to rock.

  2. #2
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    The little Black widgets are for holding your rear brake line in the top tube hose holders.
    I use a Ritchey headset so I don't know what yours looks like.
    A bicycle will take you to fantastic places....if you let it.


    Ibis fan since '08 now rolling on the big wheeled Ripley.

  3. #3
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    There was a thread regarding integrated headsets last week but basically, unlike a conventional headset which has a pair of cups pressed into either end of the headtube, the Integrated design uses a pair of cartridge bearings which "sit" in the headtube.

    Here's a link to the installation manual for your IS headset which explains this in diagram form :
    http://www.canecreek.com/fileadmin/c...12-16-2004.pdf

    Each bearing has an up and down so make sure you put the beveled side in the proper direction while assembling.

    Enjoy your bike and be sure to post pics when done!

  4. #4
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    Thanks for the input. I think I get it but it seems strange for the bearing to simply float there. It's likely not an issue when all bolted up.

    One more Q relating the headset. It comes with 3 shim stock thickness washers but the diagram only shows one (number 7 in the linked diagram). Should I use all three or just one like the diagram?

  5. #5
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    Tried calling Cane Creek but the lines are down in both their 800 and pay-per-number

  6. #6
    It's the axle
    Reputation: Gregg K's Avatar
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    I know it's not obvious. I also was confused by the number of shims to use.

    I used all of them. And still it seemed that they were not enough. The instructions call for a gap between the headtube and the rubber seal on the headset. What I found is that the rubber seal should actually be sitting directly on the headtube. Otherwise, what good does the seal do.

    My advice is to just assemble everything and see how it works. If you can ride without hands, and the fork steers without undo friction, then you're pretty well set.

    I know that's a non answer, but I think you'll get a better understanding once it's all together.

  7. #7
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    Thanks. I'll get to that soon. I need to finish taping tonight, then I'll start the assembly process.

    Pics to follow in a week or so.

  8. #8
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    Reputation: Davide's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Irrenarzt
    Thanks for the input. I think I get it but it seems strange for the bearing to simply float there. It's likely not an issue when all bolted up.

    One more Q relating the headset. It comes with 3 shim stock thickness washers but the diagram only shows one (number 7 in the linked diagram). Should I use all three or just one like the diagram?
    The IS has been around quite a long time and it is a very smart system when you think about: no more pressing cups just pop the bearings in and you are off ...

    For the shims: The IS-8 requires 1.2mm of spacers, the IS-2/IS-6 and Solos 0.5mm. Note that the IS-8 generally does not come with enough spacers and you have to find an additional 0.5mm (at the bike shop) or ask Cane Creek for the 1.2mm spacer.

    The spacer IS important. If you do not have enough the covering cup will touch the frame and you will not be able to apply the correct amount of torque on the bearing.

    The torque to apply to the bearing is pretty much the same of a standard headset: very little somewhere in the ballpark of 3.0nM ... that is ... do it by feel when the headset has no more play but the handlebar can still be moved side to side with a little effort before torquing down the stem bolts

  9. #9
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    Ok thanks for the tip. I have some extra shims on the way. I didn't get to play with it last night as some other schit came up.

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