Ripley paint damage: water bottle and cable routing
I just want to point a couple of things out to Ripley owners and builders.
First, just because a water bottle and cage fits into the upper mounts with room to spare does not mean it is suitable in that location. The suspension swing arm moves in the water bottle's direction. Have a look at the paint damage to my brand new Ripley after the first ride. This is from a plastic Lezyne mount and standard plastic bottle. The bottle was not in contact with the paint, but the swing arm bashing into it caused damage not only to the swing arm but somehow to the seat tube as well!
Second, be sure that you, or your LBS, install the derailleur cables in a crossed pattern into the internal cable routes, with adequate slack. If they are too short and go into the onside route, then there will be enough friction on the cable stops to cause some ugly paint damage there as well.
Not all bottle cages are created equal. I had an issue similar to your with a specialized stumpy years ago. I had to try a few cages until I found one with the mounting holes offset enough to not cause contact. Bummer about your scratches.
Are you using Lenz side mount cage? I just installed one on my Ripley but have not ridden it yet. Ill have to check fit by letting air out of shock and bottom it out to check clearance.
Oh man that sucks. Thanks for the warnings and don't let a few scratches take away the fun of the ride. How did the bike perform?
Oh, s sorry to see that. Looks fixable with paint and polish. Get in touch with Ibis. THose bottlecages....
Personally, don't like the internal routing on that bike. It doesn't add anything to it. Ibis, put the cables on the top tube.
Originally Posted by canuck_tacoma
You're absolutely right, the current internal route is dreadful and complicated, a true nightmare, I prefer thousand times on the top tube.
I agree completely - the cable routing on the Ripley is a train wreck. Hard to believe such an important detail was so poorly executed in the design. I contacted Ibis regarding steer tube damage from the cables, and they're sending a igus bushing to protect the steer tube. Nice band aid. Is there really no thought being put into a more comprehensive solution???
Originally Posted by Pat-G
Nice bike, but for the $$ and the time spent waiting for this frame, I expected greater attention to detail.
Going to wait for Rev. B on this one. Can't be too hard to change the mold. I don't see what internal routing gets you on this frame at all. The cables are still all over the place at the shock mount. It's hardly "clean."
Another potential Ibis customer here waiting for external cable routing before purchasing.
I also contacted them about just running on the top tube, and was not satisfied with their answer.
edit- Problem Solvers would work for routing. But I don't want holes in my frame for h2o infiltration. I know, I know...water gets in anyways. Not on my Mojo. Dry as a bone.
Note to self: 85% of FTP for 20 min.
everyone *****ed and moaned about external routing and begggged for internal on the last frames. I don't think they're gunna change it.
Can't please everyone...
Originally Posted by redmr2_man
Chainstays too long.
Water bottle in inconvenient place.
Water bottle scratching frame.
Can't run big enough tires.
Doesn't have internal cable routing.
Has internal cable routing.
Press in BB.
Too much travel.
Not enough travel.
Not a real 650.
Not enough color choices.
Something is scratched.
Takes too long to ship.
Takes too long to develop.
...did I miss any?
Nobody ever *****es about customer service though!
Oh I dunno...I could probably ***ch a bit about Ibis CS.
Originally Posted by d-bug
Ibis stating in this forum that the Ripley can easily fit a Hans Dampf in the rear, then responding to my concern that the tire rubbed the seat stay with a statement that "we didn't expect anybody to run such a big heavy tire".
I and my shop raised concern about the front shifter not playing well with the E-13 setup. Ibis told my shop they were doing it wrong, told them to make sure the shifter was set up for double (i.e. screw turned to "2") and then coming out a month later with a page showing everyone how they need to setup their shifter as a triple to get it to work right.
Ibis saying they haven't had any issue with the cable routing causing interference with the steer tube, but following up a couple months later by sending a plastic bushing to protect the steer tube. But only if you ask for it.
Shall I go on?
It's a nice bike, but the attention to detail at this price point is appalling, and rather than be honest about the shortfalls and getting out in front of issues, Ibis plays defense.
I love the fact that Ibis is a small company that gives everyone a lot of attention, but at some point, you can be too small, and the fact that it took so long to get the Ripley out, and it's still pretty buggy, is evidence that maybe Ibis is a little too small. I've wanted a Ripley since the first time I saw a picture of the Interbike proto. I've since bought two other bikes in the trail 29er category, because the Ripley wasn't available. Now that it's available, I still wouldn't buy a Ripley yet, even though I still want one.
I'll admit that I might be more OCD than most, but things like cable routing and silent operation (and not having your bike knock paint off of itself) are a big deal when it comes to ownership experience. This is a top flight frame at a top flight price, and it is totally fair to have high expectations for it. There are companies out there getting these details right.
Did anyone see the reports about chemical weapons attack in Damascus? Pretty horrifying. The UN & NATO powers have some really tough decisions ahead of them. All in all, the Arab Spring has taken a very nasty turn in the past month.
I hope they revise it...really want to buy this bike.
Originally Posted by hillharman
That cable setup is more than an eye sore, it actually interferes with performance, and the durability of the bike.
Ripley paint damage: water bottle and cable routing
That's definitely true, and its awful.
Originally Posted by budgie
That said, I'm not certain the Ripley cable routing can be directly blamed for it.
Been riding my Ripley for 2 months now. Superb bike, and an incredible climber, and I have been riding it everywhere, bike parks, technical terrain, ugly rock gardens, etc., and it does just fine, though occasionally tight switchbacks and tight maneuvers can be difficult, and on super gnarly terrain the 120/140 setup means you need to choose your lines more carefully. My poor HD has been relegated to the basement.
1) Maxxis Minion DHF 2.5 with carcass 2.35", knob width 2.55" - depending on the rim used, tire pressure and mud or wet debris being encountered, they can scrape the right side clevis. Currently running some WTB 2.3 Vigilante, a better fit but still tight by the clevis. On full on compression of the suspension (when I let the air out of the shock), right on the bottom out bumper, it barely buzzes the seattube, though I found it hard to replicate in real world conditions.
2) Running a 3-speed front derailleur with 2-speed shifter on the E-13 2x10, and it is giving me fits to get it to run perfectly
3) The internal routing was a pain to set up, and I'd prefer a normal top tube version, but it's working, when I pulled the fork out it had some subtle wear on the steerer, so I added some protection tape to keep the wear to a minimum, no wear for me on the insertion holes
4) Running a King Ti water bottle cage, and no issues at all
Those are good tips and I'll add this info as well:
Originally Posted by mgs4410
Regarding fitting a cage to the top of the Ripley down tube; at the shop we're using Arundel cages
ArundelBike - Sideloader & Other SideLoader Bottle Cage
and there is no interference at full travel. Most cages use a bolt hole location and cage location close to that of the Arundle. We sell the Arundel side loader cages on our website and they are also in many bike shops. Side entry cages are recommended.
Regarding the paint damage on the head tube casing holes, we have seen a couple of frames like that and it seems to be due to the prep before painting and there being some filler near the edge of the holes. The filler is not strong enough to resist the pressure along the edge and can get chipped. We've asked that they eliminate the use of filler in that area to avoid chipping.
Please contact Ibis for help with replacing this frame or working out some compensation for the issue.
The Ibis service contact info is in a sticky thread at the top of the page, or email firstname.lastname@example.org.
Just to explain ourselves, we have run external cables forever but the shape of the TT s on the bikes are really nice and they do look better with internal routing. We were practically getting death threats if we didn't run them internal on our next bike. (not joking)
Originally Posted by canuck_tacoma
It IS harder to set up at first, and we have done an illustrated guide and a video
Ripley 29 Cable Routing Tips & Tricks - YouTube
that goes through how to set them up, but many of the bikes I see out in the world are not set up per the specs and are not working well. I understand the frustration.
The routing can work very well. Here are the main points to check. The illustration in the first link shows this the best, so check that. Here it is written out as well:
1. cross the cables in front of the head tube.
2. There needs to be one zip tie that tightly clamps all the casings together just after they exit the top tube, just above the forward part of the shock.
Some of the casings move with the suspension and some do not. This locks them together so they do not slide in and out of the top tube or gradually ratchet the casing one way or the other. Many bikes I've seen do not have this zip tie. We are working on getting the word out about this set up detail. We may even make a little cable bundle clamp and include them / provide at no charge to existing owners. It's key to proper functioning.
3. the two casings that connect with the swingarm (rear brake and rear derailleur) need one zip tie about mid span between the clevis guide and tube tube exit. This keeps them moving straight up and down together, not allowing them to bow out sideways or get out of sync. Sometimes the routing works OK without it, but one tie placed there makes it work every time.
4. If running a FD the casing should go inboard of the clevis and should get loosely zip tied to the RD clevis zip tie. This holds it clear of the clevis so it does not wear on the paint and carbon.
Hope this helps you all get more enjoyment out of your Ripleys,
Last edited by slopetrash; 06-17-2015 at 12:44 AM.
Originally Posted by hanssc
NOw thats good customer service. I wish I could afford a Ripley, it on my very short list of bikes to buy within the next year and seeing deeds like this make me want to pack my lunch everyday and pinch pennies so I can get one. WTG IBIS!!
There is a permanent solution for the steerer shield in the works that will be shipping with all bikes and provided at no charge to all Ripley owners.
Originally Posted by mtnwater
We did not realize the potential for the casing to wear on the steerer until the Bike Radar test. (It's not consistent and some of our bikes here with hundreds of hours on them have minimal marks, barely scratching the ano, similar to where the headset contacts the steerer etc, but in some cases the casing can wear a groove into the steerer and that could weaken the steerer enough to be a problem eventually.)
We have been testing various approaches to determine the best one and then getting tooling and parts made. We will have a nice little stainless steel shield that drops onto the steerer and protects it in case the casing rubs against it. The material is close to what our stainless chain suck plates are made of and should last a lifetime. We will put the part on the web store at no charge and put the word out to everyone officially in about 2-3 weeks.
Originally Posted by pastajet
Here's an explanation and set up tricks that should help.
For those who are wondering why we did this..
Optimal anti-squat and suspension performance on the Ripley occurs with around a 30 - 34t chainring.
The fact that the 29" wheels cover more ground in one revolution effectively increases the gearing, so a 34 rides more like a 37t or so on a 26" bike. In other words you do not need as high of gears when running a 29" wheel, so we designed it to be optimized around a gear that's appropriate for the wheel size. The Ripley is one of the first 29rs that uses this approach.
There are currently no 2x cranksets available from Shimano or Sram that have the optimal gearing for 29" and the 100% anti-squat on the Ripley in a useful gear. The triples work great however with a 32 middle ring being right in there. You just don't need the 42T chainring unless you often get going REALLY fast.
E-13 made a great solution for this with a 2x crank with bash. It is actually a 3x crank arm, that is the 2x are in position 1 and 2 and the bash is in position 3.
In order to match the shape of the crank and the throw of the FD and shifters, you need to run a 3x FD and sometimes 3x shifters.
The FD needs to be clamped higher, related to the bash ring on the E-13 crank as if it were a normal chainring. Not adjusted lower close to the middle ring. (please see the PDF below)
Not simple, but it works great. This is a case of the details being important and difficult to communicate to everyone.
Once you ride the bike, most people are astonished at how well it accelerates and climbs, so we think it's worth the trouble. The bike component companies will catch up with this in the next year or two and the crank and FD selection with appropriate gearing will improve.
We made this to explain. If you are setting up a bike, please check it out:
Loving The Ripley
Well I am a happy Ripley owner, I like the cable routing and didn't have too much trouble putting it together. I think it looks clean. I was helping a friend with a Trek road frame and it was much harder to deal with, I was fishing for the housings in the frame. The bike has been solid and I have been riding it like I stole it.
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