Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner

Ripley paint damage: water bottle and cable routing

18K views 76 replies 39 participants last post by  GSoler 
#1 ·
I just want to point a couple of things out to Ripley owners and builders.

First, just because a water bottle and cage fits into the upper mounts with room to spare does not mean it is suitable in that location. The suspension swing arm moves in the water bottle's direction. Have a look at the paint damage to my brand new Ripley after the first ride. This is from a plastic Lezyne mount and standard plastic bottle. The bottle was not in contact with the paint, but the swing arm bashing into it caused damage not only to the swing arm but somehow to the seat tube as well!

Second, be sure that you, or your LBS, install the derailleur cables in a crossed pattern into the internal cable routes, with adequate slack. If they are too short and go into the onside route, then there will be enough friction on the cable stops to cause some ugly paint damage there as well. Blue Teal Aqua Azure Turquoise
Blue Electric blue Rim Aqua Azure
 
See less See more
2
#12 ·
Can't please everyone...
Too slack.
Too steep.
Too heavy.
Chainstays too long.
Water bottle in inconvenient place.
Water bottle scratching frame.
Can't run big enough tires.
Doesn't have internal cable routing.
Has internal cable routing.
Press in BB.
Too much travel.
Not enough travel.
Not a real 650.
Not enough color choices.
Something is scratched.
Takes too long to ship.
Takes too long to develop.
...did I miss any?

Nobody ever *****es about customer service though!
 
#18 ·
Been riding my Ripley for 2 months now. Superb bike, and an incredible climber, and I have been riding it everywhere, bike parks, technical terrain, ugly rock gardens, etc., and it does just fine, though occasionally tight switchbacks and tight maneuvers can be difficult, and on super gnarly terrain the 120/140 setup means you need to choose your lines more carefully. My poor HD has been relegated to the basement.

Some findings:

1) Maxxis Minion DHF 2.5 with carcass 2.35", knob width 2.55" - depending on the rim used, tire pressure and mud or wet debris being encountered, they can scrape the right side clevis. Currently running some WTB 2.3 Vigilante, a better fit but still tight by the clevis. On full on compression of the suspension (when I let the air out of the shock), right on the bottom out bumper, it barely buzzes the seattube, though I found it hard to replicate in real world conditions.
2) Running a 3-speed front derailleur with 2-speed shifter on the E-13 2x10, and it is giving me fits to get it to run perfectly
3) The internal routing was a pain to set up, and I'd prefer a normal top tube version, but it's working, when I pulled the fork out it had some subtle wear on the steerer, so I added some protection tape to keep the wear to a minimum, no wear for me on the insertion holes
4) Running a King Ti water bottle cage, and no issues at all
 
#24 ·
2) Running a 3-speed front derailleur with 2-speed shifter on the E-13 2x10, and it is giving me fits to get it to run perfectly
Hi Brian,

Here's an explanation and set up tricks that should help.

For those who are wondering why we did this..

Optimal anti-squat and suspension performance on the Ripley occurs with around a 30 - 34t chainring.
The fact that the 29" wheels cover more ground in one revolution effectively increases the gearing, so a 34 rides more like a 37t or so on a 26" bike. In other words you do not need as high of gears when running a 29" wheel, so we designed it to be optimized around a gear that's appropriate for the wheel size. The Ripley is one of the first 29rs that uses this approach.

There are currently no 2x cranksets available from Shimano or Sram that have the optimal gearing for 29" and the 100% anti-squat on the Ripley in a useful gear. The triples work great however with a 32 middle ring being right in there. You just don't need the 42T chainring unless you often get going REALLY fast.

E-13 made a great solution for this with a 2x crank with bash. It is actually a 3x crank arm, that is the 2x are in position 1 and 2 and the bash is in position 3.
In order to match the shape of the crank and the throw of the FD and shifters, you need to run a 3x FD and sometimes 3x shifters.

The FD needs to be clamped higher, related to the bash ring on the E-13 crank as if it were a normal chainring. Not adjusted lower close to the middle ring. (please see the PDF below)

Not simple, but it works great. This is a case of the details being important and difficult to communicate to everyone.

Once you ride the bike, most people are astonished at how well it accelerates and climbs, so we think it's worth the trouble. The bike component companies will catch up with this in the next year or two and the crank and FD selection with appropriate gearing will improve.

We made this to explain. If you are setting up a bike, please check it out:

http://www.ibiscycles.com/downloads/Ibis_Tech_Bulletin_Edit_2.1.pdf

Hans
 
#19 ·
I just want to point a couple of things out to Ripley owners and builders.

First, just because a water bottle and cage fits into the upper mounts with room to spare does not mean it is suitable in that location. The suspension swing arm moves in the water bottle's direction. Have a look at the paint damage to my brand new Ripley after the first ride. This is from a plastic Lezyne mount and standard plastic bottle. The bottle was not in contact with the paint, but the swing arm bashing into it caused damage not only to the swing arm but somehow to the seat tube as well!

Second, be sure that you, or your LBS, install the derailleur cables in a crossed pattern into the internal cable routes, with adequate slack. If they are too short and go into the onside route, then there will be enough friction on the cable stops to cause some ugly paint damage there as well.
Those are good tips and I'll add this info as well:
Regarding fitting a cage to the top of the Ripley down tube; at the shop we're using Arundel cages

ArundelBike - Sideloader & Other SideLoader Bottle Cage

and there is no interference at full travel. Most cages use a bolt hole location and cage location close to that of the Arundle. We sell the Arundel side loader cages on our website and they are also in many bike shops. Side entry cages are recommended.

Regarding the paint damage on the head tube casing holes, we have seen a couple of frames like that and it seems to be due to the prep before painting and there being some filler near the edge of the holes. The filler is not strong enough to resist the pressure along the edge and can get chipped. We've asked that they eliminate the use of filler in that area to avoid chipping.

Please contact Ibis for help with replacing this frame or working out some compensation for the issue.

The Ibis service contact info is in a sticky thread at the top of the page, or email warranty@ibiscycles.com.

Hans
 
#43 ·
thought about that...it's not too unpleasant to look at as it is...and since the barrel adjuster is there I'd want to keep it accessible. (I also used regular black shimano SIS housing for the LEV instead of their weird carbon weave-look stuff just to keep all the cabling consistent)

I like the Weirwolfs...there's a tad of rub on the rear clevis but not bad. good, consistent, tire in what I've ridden them in so far...running as low as 20psi in them but usually am up around 24psi (I'm 180ish lbs)
 
#10 ·
Another potential Ibis customer here waiting for external cable routing before purchasing.

I also contacted them about just running on the top tube, and was not satisfied with their answer.


edit- Problem Solvers would work for routing. But I don't want holes in my frame for h2o infiltration. I know, I know...water gets in anyways. Not on my Mojo. Dry as a bone.
 
#14 ·
I love the fact that Ibis is a small company that gives everyone a lot of attention, but at some point, you can be too small, and the fact that it took so long to get the Ripley out, and it's still pretty buggy, is evidence that maybe Ibis is a little too small. I've wanted a Ripley since the first time I saw a picture of the Interbike proto. I've since bought two other bikes in the trail 29er category, because the Ripley wasn't available. Now that it's available, I still wouldn't buy a Ripley yet, even though I still want one.

I'll admit that I might be more OCD than most, but things like cable routing and silent operation (and not having your bike knock paint off of itself) are a big deal when it comes to ownership experience. This is a top flight frame at a top flight price, and it is totally fair to have high expectations for it. There are companies out there getting these details right.
 
#25 ·
Loving The Ripley

Well I am a happy Ripley owner, I like the cable routing and didn't have too much trouble putting it together. I think it looks clean. I was helping a friend with a Trek road frame and it was much harder to deal with, I was fishing for the housings in the frame. The bike has been solid and I have been riding it like I stole it.
 
#27 ·
Well I am a happy Ripley owner, I like the cable routing and didn't have too much trouble putting it together. I think it looks clean.
I just put my Ripley together, too, and didn't have problems with the cable routing. It was really easy to thread the cables through as suggested in the Ibis guidelines. I did have trouble with the cable tie trick - I couldn't keep the cable ties separated by an inch and oriented in opposite directions when I put the cables back through that little hole inside the frame. But it all seems to have worked well. And it does look clean.
 
#38 ·
I am constantly amazed at the PERSONAL responses given from Hans.... how many other companies take the time to be current and timely on forums like this. THIS is also a part of customer service.

This is one of the reasons I will always keep coming back to Ibis.... and of course for their great bikes. One month on the Ripley now and loving it!

Thank you Han's/Ibis :)
 
#41 ·
A couple potential solutions

First, on the cable routing, I haven't had any paint issues - and I've ridden the bike a fair amount - but I did cable it slightly differently that most people do. I ran the rear der housing outside the frame to follow the rear brake line...it just cleans things up a bit (although, with two der's / two brakes / dropper post it's a bit chaotic...love the simplicity of the cabling on my ss / no dropper and the DJ bikes my kids ride).

I also use these little connectors (avid sends them with their brakesets...ask you local shop)...they have a clamp for two cables and a little swivel mechanism...they seem to keep the lines from bouncing around.

Lastly, I moved the LEV adjuster to the back by the shock.

Pics attached for reference.

On the bottle cage, I'm using a Lezyne side loader with no interference on my med frame.
 

Attachments

#42 ·
First, on the cable routing, I haven't had any paint issues - and I've ridden the bike a fair amount - but I did cable it slightly differently that most people do. I ran the rear der housing outside the frame to follow the rear brake line...it just cleans things up a bit (although, with two der's / two brakes / dropper post it's a bit chaotic...love the simplicity of the cabling on my ss / no dropper and the DJ bikes my kids ride).

I also use these little connectors (avid sends them with their brakesets...ask you local shop)...they have a clamp for two cables and a little swivel mechanism...they seem to keep the lines from bouncing around.

Lastly, I moved the LEV adjuster to the back by the shock.

Pics attached for reference.

On the bottle cage, I'm using a Lezyne side loader with no interference on my med frame.
Looks pretty good...wonder if some black spiral wrap around the bundle over the shock would look good? May be more trouble than its worth.

How are you liking the 29r Weirwolfs? Loving mine on the HD.
 
#46 ·
I've had my ripley built up for a couple months few things I've noticed as well...

1- water bottle cage works, but you have to use a small bottle an move it up as far as the mounting holes allow. I compressed my suspension before riding it with the bottle in, an could see right away it hit.

2- my LBS did the cable routing correct an it still sucked in the top tube to the point I turned my bars too hard at one point an the cable sucked in so much while I was riding that it kinked my housing. I've since put a ziptie as it enters the top tube an no more problem

3- haven't taked apart to see any damage on the steer tube. But as soon as ibis releases the bushing I will use it.

4- no front der. issues as I'm running 1x10 with wolftooth chainring.. coupled with a xtr shadow plus, not one dropped chain, ever, over some serious descents etc..

Over all the bike is great an climbs like no other.. My HD has been sitting as well..
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top