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  1. #1
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    ripley...anyone running all cables externally?

    just wondering how it looks and what works best

    i can't seem to get the rear derailleur cable from getting pushed back into the top tube when the shock compresses...it makes the cable move which in turn makes the zip ties scrape against the inside (i know there is a related thread, but none of the tricks seems to work for me)

  2. #2
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    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  3. #3
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    A variation to consider

    I'm just using a slightly-varied approach on mine and it's working great.
    I run the rear der cable outside the frame and match it to the rear brake routing...it comes out very clean looking. I run front der and dropper post internally. Neither seems to move much at all and neither makes any noise (I do have the zip ties on them).

    The image uploader isn't working for me right now but I've uploaded images of my approach in other threads.

  4. #4
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    there's no reason your cables should move in the top tube cuz they're not getting pushed in by the compression of the shock

  5. #5
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    right. which makes my setup a good one, I think.

  6. #6
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    i think that is a good setup...since the rear derailleur cable and rear brake hose move in sync...gonna try that and keep the dropper running inside

  7. #7
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    That is a good idea....why didn't ibis do this originally? There must be a catch?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by canuck_tacoma View Post
    That is a good idea....why didn't ibis do this originally? There must be a catch?
    Hmm..does the Reverb hose fit throught the holes in the internal routing? I belive (have not measured) that it might have a lager dia than a gear housing.

  9. #9
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    I am running XO1 and am running the KS lev dropper cable through the internal routing hole, works great. Not sure about the Reverb...
    milesW

  10. #10
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    the internal routing holes can accommodate up to 4.5mm i believe. the reverb hose is hydraulic so likely wider than that. even the stock cable and housing that comes with the thomson dropper is too big. the stock lev housing is fine.

    Quote Originally Posted by simenf View Post
    Hmm..does the Reverb hose fit throught the holes in the internal routing? I belive (have not measured) that it might have a lager dia than a gear housing.

  11. #11
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    how are you running your rear derailleur cable?

    Quote Originally Posted by miles wadsworth View Post
    I am running XO1 and am running the KS lev dropper cable through the internal routing hole, works great. Not sure about the Reverb...

  12. #12
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    housings

    FWIW, I don't use the stock housings that come with the LEV (they used to ship with the weave style and now have solid black)...I use Shimano SIS housing (I buy large runs of it - like 30 ft - at a time. I use it because it's high-quality and matches the housings for my shifters / brakes. I really like the LEV's...just don't understand why they use funky housings.
    I've also done something a little different with the barrel adjuster to clean up the cockpit...I installed it just above the rear shock.
    see pics.ripley...anyone running all cables externally?-ripley-cable-routing.jpgripley...anyone running all cables externally?-ripley-lev-adjuster.jpg

  13. #13
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    the new housing that comes with the lev is crap. it is bent to fit in the box and basically impossible to straighten. i am using shimano housing as well.

    the woven cable looked neat...too bad they don't use it anymore

  14. #14
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    I never understood why they used the weave style...since nearly all the other brake / der housings are black on bikes...just makes more sense to me to go black. and I agree that the new black housings they're using are suspect.

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    I am running the rear internally through the left hole (left if sitting on the bike). The shifter and dropper cables cross before going into the frame.

  16. #16
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    First, I want to thank @riderup for the idea of running the rear derailleur cable on the outside of the top tube, paired up with the brake cable. This works beautifully for me, especially since I'm not running a front derailleur nor am I running a dropper post, thus only two cables travel back the length of the bike.
    Prior to the change in position my derailleur cable was being pushed up into the top tube on compression, and since no zip ties had been installed by the mechanic who built my bike, I was getting a loud knocking sound on rebound. Running the rear derailleur cable external allowed me to closely pair up the rear disk and rear derailleur cable. Interesting, I was still getting a knocking sound upon rebound, although less pronounced. I checked and it appeared that on rebound the cables were slapping the top tube just aft of the top tube cable stops. I fixed this by wrapping both cables with a small section of soft Velcro so that they don't slap the frame (or do so in a muted fashion at least). I will provide pictures of my setup soon. So far no more noises, at least in my test ride around the block.
    Now if I could only figure out that horrible "whack" sound that happens when I come off of small drops (1ft) that sounds like the rear shock is bottoming out - but according to the o-ring position it isn't. It isnít chain slap (I know that sound, plus Iím running X01). And my tires are thin (2.2), so it isnít a tire vs. frame thing. Maybe the clevis pin deal problem reported elsewhere? It makes me anxious when riding off of small ledges and stuff.

  17. #17
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  18. #18
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    you are welcome. glad it helped.

  19. #19
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    ripley...anyone running all cables externally?

    Quote Originally Posted by Thorin_2 View Post
    First, I want to thank @riderup for the idea of running the rear derailleur cable on the outside of the top tube, paired up with the brake cable. This works beautifully for me, especially since I'm not running a front derailleur nor am I running a dropper post, thus only two cables travel back the length of the bike.
    Prior to the change in position my derailleur cable was being pushed up into the top tube on compression, and since no zip ties had been installed by the mechanic who built my bike, I was getting a loud knocking sound on rebound. Running the rear derailleur cable external allowed me to closely pair up the rear disk and rear derailleur cable. Interesting, I was still getting a knocking sound upon rebound, although less pronounced. I checked and it appeared that on rebound the cables were slapping the top tube just aft of the top tube cable stops. I fixed this by wrapping both cables with a small section of soft Velcro so that they don't slap the frame (or do so in a muted fashion at least). I will provide pictures of my setup soon. So far no more noises, at least in my test ride around the block.
    Now if I could only figure out that horrible "whack" sound that happens when I come off of small drops (1ft) that sounds like the rear shock is bottoming out - but according to the o-ring position it isn't. It isnít chain slap (I know that sound, plus Iím running X01). And my tires are thin (2.2), so it isnít a tire vs. frame thing. Maybe the clevis pin deal problem reported elsewhere? It makes me anxious when riding off of small ledges and stuff.
    Sounds like that may come from a rear clutch-type derailleur with a bad grease job from the factory. Known issue. Have it checked at your LBS.


    simenf - brainwashed by the big wheel mafia.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by simenf View Post
    Sounds like that may come from a rear clutch-type derailleur with a bad grease job from the factory. Known issue. Have it checked at your LBS.


    simenf - brainwashed by the big wheel mafia.
    Agreed. My XX1 rear derailleur made a 'clunk' sound and you could feel it in the suspension when the clutch would break loose. I took it apart and re-greased it according to directions I found on the internet and it is much, much better now.

  21. #21
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    Pictures of cable setup

    As promised, here are some pictures of my setup. Please forgive the quality of the pics. I will try the rear derailleur adjust at some point, just that it doesn't sound like its that far back - plus I'm not shifting at the time.

    ripley...anyone running all cables externally?-img_4083.jpg
    ripley...anyone running all cables externally?-img_4085.jpg
    ripley...anyone running all cables externally?-img_4086.jpg
    ripley...anyone running all cables externally?-img_4087.jpg

  22. #22
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    Nice setup!

    FWIW - You don't have to be shifting to feel the 'clunk' of a SRAM type 2 rear derailleur clutch breaking loose. A couple things contribute to the clutch breaking loose. 1 - the suspension compressing causes chain growth, effectively lengthening the chainstay. The result is the derailleur cage is pulled forward. This is the direction the 1-way roller bearing clutch resists movement. The force of the suspension compressing will eventually overcome the resistance of the type 2 clutch bearing. 2 - The action of going off of a drop causes the chain to want to 'slap' the chainstay (it is pulled downward). At a point, this force (especially when coupled with the chain growth mentioned above) will also overcome the type 2 clutch, causing a 'clunk' that can be felt and in some cases heard. At least it could on my bike.

    It may also be the lower shock mount clevis fastener. They had some that were out of spec.

    I wouldn't discount the type 2 rear derailleur though. Like I said, I rebuilt mine. If you have some mechanical skills (and the instructions from the interwebs), 30 minutes and some decent lube, it makes a noticeable difference. At least it did in my case.

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