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  1. #1
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    New question here. Question for other Special Blend owners, pic inside

    I just picked mine up last week Saturday, and rode it Tuesday evening, Thursday evening, and Saturday morning. So far I am loving it, however there has been one hiccup that has me a tad concerned, and I'm wondering if any of you Special Blend owners have experienced this as well.

    The headset is the issue I'm speaking of, CaneCreek 40 (comes with the bike). After the first ride, it became loose, not a huge deal, as that is somewhat normal (from what i've read). I tightened it up, but still noticed a little bit of movement when doing the grasp the front brake, and rock it forward/backward check. My friend whom helped me build the bike (he has tons of bike building experience, high end ones at that), said that he was a little puzzled by this headset, and that something didnt seem quite right. Looking back, we are positive there weren't any extra parts in the bag that the headset was packed in. I have poked around here, and have deduced my issue to that of the headset did not come with the extra shims that are needed to help the looseness that I'm experiencing.

    So, have any of you Special Blend owners experienced this as well? If so, are the shims easily obtainable?
    Last edited by bdee; 07-19-2012 at 12:57 PM.

  2. #2
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    My SL did the same thing I ended with 3 shims in the headset to stop it. Cane Creek sell the shims if your LBS does not have them.

  3. #3
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    I emailed Cane Creek and their c/s was awesome, I had an email in my inbox the next morning, asking me to call them and they'dd take care of me!

    In the meantime, an LBS sent me this, will this work? If so, where should I install it?


  4. #4
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    That's the shim for under the top cap, pop another one under and see If the knock stops.

    http://www.canecreek.com/manuals/Hea...structions.pdf

    Also check your forks to see if their is any knocking coming from the bushings.

  5. #5
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    I took off the stem, pulled everything off and placed the shim in the head tube, then set the bearings in and all of the other pieces.

    I just took this pic, it looks like there is about a 1-2mm gap between the headtube and the top cap. Is this way off/wrong

  6. #6
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    The bearing sits flush in the head tube and the shim your lbs sent sits in the top cap. In the middle of the top cap the centre ring should pop out this where the spacers are, cane creek typically supply 2 and I ended up with 3 in there.

    Look at the following review, has a good picture of the top cap and diagram:

    Grams Light Bikes - Mountain Bike and Gear Reviews, and News: Cane Creek 110 IS Review

    Hope that helps

  7. #7
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    Thanks again Shiny.

  8. #8
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    Ok, I put shims in, but I am still getting movement. Its not the fork, when i carefully watch the top cap and hold the brake, and push fwd/backward, i can see the top cap move about a mm or two.

    This is very frustrating. Any other ideas?

    I see this has tons of page views, but only Shiny has replied. Anyone else have input?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdee View Post
    Ok, I put shims in, but I am still getting movement. Its not the fork, when i carefully watch the top cap and hold the brake, and push fwd/backward, i can see the top cap move about a mm or two.

    This is very frustrating. Any other ideas?

    I see this has tons of page views, but only Shiny has replied. Anyone else have input?
    Could be the compression ring is not contacting the bearing. Or the top bearing cover is not contating the compression ring and pressing it to the bearing.
    The link to grams lite bikes has a nice diagram. Parts 4-5-7-8 need to fit together tight.

  10. #10
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    Thanks CG, my concern is more of the fact that there is a tad bit of slop on the headtube around the top bearing. No matter how tight the top cap bolt is, that slop cannot be eliminated, its almost like there needs to be an inner shim or something that lines the inside of the headtube to hold the bearing a bit tighter.

  11. #11
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    yup, special blend owner here checking in with the same sloppy head tube :\

  12. #12
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    No slop issues with my Special Blend...

  13. #13
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    hi prae, and thanks for checking in pelly.

    my friend resolved the issue, and big thanks to Hans on here for his super speedy reply to my PM's regarding the issue!

    it turns out that the shims do in fact, help ALOT! we stacked a couple shims in there, enough to allow the headset top cap to clear the headtube, and cranked the headset bolt down, much more than i was used to, this eliminated the rocking that i was experiencing, and still allowed for smooth steering without any signs of binding.

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