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  1. #1
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    Probable new Mojo HD owner and a few questions

    Hello,

    I知 probably switching my current Santa Cruz SuperLight to a new and a bit more aggressive rig. I知 currently hesitating between the NomadC and a Mojo HD, since this is the Ibis forum is probably pointless asking about a recommendation on that side, however I have more specific questions regarding the HD...

    I知 about 210lb and 6 tall (legs longer than standard proportion). From what I致e read, the HD sizing runs small, so what would you say fits me better, an L or XL frame? On the other hand, is frame cracking an issue with HD frames?

    I知 coming from a 120mm fork and plan to go 160mm. I壇 like having the Lyrik as an option but as I have only Fox options, I壇 go with the Talas 160/120, but is it worth the extra money from the default Float 36 160? Basically I like the idea of not losing the uphill efficiency by lowering the Talas, but I知 not sure about extra weight and complexity.

    On the shock side, I知 recently seeing discussions about if better running coil shocks on the HD, especially with the default RP23 option. Given the 160mm fork and my 210lb weight, is the RP32 a bad choice?

    Quite a bunch of questions, but hopefully all the Ibis crowd can help me with this.

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    Reputation: d-bug's Avatar
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    Go with a Large, though if coming from an XC background the L may feel small.
    The RP23 is a fine shock, but there are better options out there. You can always upgrade later. Coil seems to be more geared towards those that ride for the DH, and climbing is just a means to get to the DH.
    Lyrik is an awesome fork. Travel adjust on the fork is a personal thing. Some love it, some never use it.
    I think you'll find a general consensus that a Fox Float is a much better fork than the TALAS.
    Those who know, ride a Mojo AND a Mojo HD.
    Quadzilla
    Quote Originally Posted by benja55
    Ok, whatever, cold water on my bike boner right there.

  3. #3
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    How long is the Top Tube of your superlight?

  4. #4
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    I compared the Nomad and my HD side by side and the HD is way better for out of saddle pedaling.
    Go XL but try before you buy.
    I've flung my bike into boulder fields and had less damage than an aluminum frame would show.
    Air shocks are getting pretty good now so I'm liking the Rockshox Monarch rc3 plus. Now there's the Cane creek air that's likely to be great.
    I think you can get the bike without a shock or maybe that was a frame only thing.
    Being a heavier rider you should really notice the stiffness of the frame and the rear thru axle wheel.

  5. #5
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    I'm 6' 4", 220 lbs, long legs too. I love my XL HD, but agree their sizing runs on the compact size. Depends a bit on your preference - some folks prefer a compact cockpit, some don't - but I think you'd be wise to test ride an XL.

    I have a 160/120 Talus that I had Pushed and converted to a Float. Never liked using the travel adjust so why have it I figured.

    I still have the Kashima rp23 that came with the frame, but I'm running a pushed rp23 I had as a spare (Pushed for the HD, they can't Push the Kashima version yet). It's OK but still seems a bit harsh on high speed chunk. I'm looking forward to trying a Monarch plus soon, as I keep hearing good things about this shock and the HD.

    With my current set-up, and by virtue of the DW-link suspension I'm sure, this thing climbs like nobody's business. And the frame feels stiffer than anything I've had previous. Can't speak to the frame's durability from experience - I've only had it 3 months now. But in researching the issue myself prior to purchase, I'm satisfied with the general consensus that the HD frame is ready for anything that comes it's way.

  6. #6
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    Ride both the Nomad and the HD and pick which one you like best. You do not have to worry about the HD as far as cracking or breaking. Size wise it's best to demo both though. The Nomad is a more plush bike if that's a good word to use, and the HD is more of a go fast bike. I have always felt the Nomad is supple DH, but I wouldnever in a million years use one as a trail ride. You can use the HD in both, trail and DH, that's what makes it so special. But honestly, you can get a shock to make the HD ride almost anyway you want, it all comes down to tuning.
    Last edited by mazspeed; 06-06-2012 at 09:53 AM.

  7. #7
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    I'm 6'3" and run an XL with a 50mm stem and a Talas 180 that I use all the time for my big climbs. If I was 6'0" I would still run the exact same setup. I know guys that can rip on all kinds of different HD setups, including the Talas, Float, and Lyric. I also know guys that can rip on Nomads. At the level we're talking here no matter what you pick you'll be just fine and the sooner you can start working technique on the new build you choose the better. Have a great season, it's looking up for you with these choices.

  8. #8
    [put something cool here]
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    I joined the sizing discussion earlier, but for this time I want to skip all measures and numbers. Does this frame look too small to you?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kerberos View Post
    I joined the sizing discussion earlier, but for this time I want to skip all measures and numbers. Does this frame look too small to you?

    For me yes, too small for sure. For someone else, they might like a little bike underneath them. Would need to see you seated for sure tho, that picture could be misleading.
    Last edited by Yody; 05-29-2012 at 12:09 PM.

  10. #10
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    It does look a bit small, especially if that's not an XL. But to be honest, that's probably what I look like on my XL.

  11. #11
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    I don't think the picture or analysis of it is a helpful tangent for the OP. I think taking one out from your local dealer or catching the Ibis demo day is the way to go.

  12. #12
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    there is no way in hell that you need to worry about cracking the frame. You probably won't even flex it. Can't comment on sizing. I've ridden the HD w/ the float and the talas. Honestly, I prefer the talas, but i choose to ride relentlessly long and steep climbs. If you're only climibng fire roads and singetrach that isn't too steep, the float is sick.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Betarad View Post
    It does look a bit small, especially if that's not an XL. But to be honest, that's probably what I look like on my XL.
    Me: 6' 0", 35.43 inseam (1.84m, 90cm SL)
    HD: Large, 720mm bar, 60mm stem

    Before I ordered I test rode an XL on unknown terrain, felt good. And I test rode an L on familiar terrain, felt good. Well...

  14. #14
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    Thanks for all your input so far!
    Quote Originally Posted by canuck_tacoma View Post
    How long is the Top Tube of your superlight?
    From the center of BB to the center of the crossing of the tubes, about 17.5"; to the top of the tube, 19.5. From the center of BB to the highest point of my seat, 31.5", thus about 12" of exposed seatpost including the seat itself.

    For the try'n'decide, unfortunately I'm pretty far from the nearest places where I can actually try one before purchasing (Mexico). I have to go with the best bid.

    A typical weekend ride is about 3hr uphill and 30min downhill. Currently I'm among the first to arrive in uphill and trying to keep that way... though not of the firsts on the downhill, yet! From Fox website the coil shock is about 250 extra grams -without spring-. It seems I'd keep with RP23 and the Float... I wish there were DHX Air as an option

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kerberos View Post
    Me: 6' 0", 35.43 inseam (1.84m, 90cm SL)
    HD: Large, 720mm bar, 60mm stem

    Before I ordered I test rode an XL on unknown terrain, felt good. And I test rode an L on familiar terrain, felt good. Well...
    I'm 35.2 inseam, so I guess is a pretty good estimate. I suppose the L frame is the one on the pic you posted, right?

  16. #16
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    Ah, yes, I own that L frame now for 5 months. I keep wondering if XL would have been the better choice. But I am aware that I don't take the most efficient and ergonomic position in descents. I tend to be tensed/cramped too far in the rear.
    Not sure if those extra 2cm top tube would help in that respect or not.

    -- sent from mobile

  17. #17
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    i have the 120/160 talas and use the talas everytime the hill points up hill.

  18. #18
    the refurbished one
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    def XL! the mojo hd feels very small.
    at 6.1 and 35.8" inseam the mojo feels just right and equal than the previous nomad in XL (with shorter seattube and longer headtube). my seatpost ist exposed 9.3". with a 60mm stem i do have a very upright position for tech rides. i change to 75mm for smoother rides.
    thats how it looks.
    Sokrates is dead, Galilei is dead, Newton is dead, Einstein is dead, Pantani is dead and i am feeling sick too.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by hball View Post
    def XL! the mojo hd feels very small.
    at 6.1 and 35.8" inseam the mojo feels just right and equal than the previous nomad in XL (with shorter seattube and longer headtube). my seatpost ist exposed 9.3". with a 60mm stem i do have a very upright position for tech rides. i change to 75mm for smoother rides.
    thats how it looks.
    We are about the same size and I'm running a 3" riser bar with a 40mm 0 Deg. rise stem on my XL.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Betarad View Post

    I have a 160/120 Talus that I had Pushed and converted to a Float. Never liked using the travel adjust so why have it I figured.
    +1 for this. Just sent my Talas off to Push for this conversion too. The bike climbs really really well so I never used the adjustment. The Talas cartridge also has 30 seals in it alone (i.e. potential for failure) so I'd prefer to have a simpler setup. Personally, I found that finding the right position on the bike with my stem length and saddle settings made up for anything I "lost" not having the Talas.

    Should have my fork back in a couple days and can't wait to try it out.

  21. #21
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    Thanks.

    It seems I'll be able to test the L size in the next few weeks. From there I'll be able to make a choice on sizing.

  22. #22
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    The Nomad has a better carbon layup process(mandrels instead of bladders) which makes it stronger and lighter than the HD. Very similar geometry. Nomads will have thru-axles by the middle of summer. You will have to do more regular maintenance on the lower link of the nomad, though it's very simple. Top tube length is different between Ibis and SC.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by erik2k10 View Post
    The Nomad has a better carbon layup process(mandrels instead of bladders) which makes it stronger and lighter than the HD. Very similar geometry. Nomads will have thru-axles by the middle of summer. You will have to do more regular maintenance on the lower link of the nomad, though it's very simple. Top tube length is different between Ibis and SC.
    The Nomad is stronger than the HD? You know this how? You have seen a side by side comparison of both bikes strength wise, Tests? The answer to that is NO you don't. Both frames are so strong, worrying about which one is stronger is the wrong thing to worry about with these bikes. To say something is stronger without any proof is silly to say unless you can prove it.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by mazspeed View Post
    The Nomad is stronger than the HD? You know this how? You have seen a side by side comparison of both bikes strength wise, Tests? The answer to that is NO you don't. Both frames are so strong, worrying about which one is stronger is the wrong thing to worry about with these bikes. To say something is stronger without any proof is silly to say unless you can prove it.
    Check out this thread by Hans at Ibis:
    How tough is the Mojo HD?
    "It takes about 1500 pounds of force at the fork to break the front"

    Then check out this video by SC of the same test
    Santa Cruz Bicycles - Test Lab - Pinkbike
    2050 lbs of force

    I think that is sufficient enough proof to conclude that SC mandrel layup process creates a stronger frame than the HD. Btw, I tested the HD and loved it.
    Last edited by erik2k10; 06-06-2012 at 11:01 AM.

  25. #25
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    Buy the bike that fits you the best and feels the best. It's really that simple.
    Both bikes are fantastic machines, have incredible strength, and will provide you with tons of fun.

    The whole "Nomad vs. HD strength argument" is pretty silly. It's unlikely that either frame is going to break before other components (bars, fork, etc.) do under these extreme loads.

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