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  1. #1
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    Pics of the Bashguard and Guide I just installed

    Probably not a whole lot of Ibis riders who care but here's a few pics of the Bash Guard and Chain Guide I just installed today.

    After reading feedback from a post that I made earlier this week here and consulting with my friend I decided to upgrade from a standard Triple Ring setup to a Bashguard, 2 ring setup with a chain guide.

    I didn't want to ad a bunch of weight or spend a lot of money so f I got a Shimano Saint bashguard and bolt kit for $25. Actually weighs slightly less than the XTR big ring. The guard was 72 grams and the XTR big ring was 82. For now I'm keeping the stock 22/32 gearing and will see how that works out, I might want to try the XTR 34 tooth middle ring next instead of the 32 though as I'm worried I'll be running out of gear n the DH.

    I then added a $25 Blackspire Stinger Chain guide, which basically just sandwiches between the BB cup and the frame. I also upgraded the pulley to a MRP lightweight pully which is supposed to save some weight and make the wheel quiter.

    I haven't had it out on the trail yet since we're in the middle of a storm but here's a few pics. I'm hoping my chain doesn't fall off as much and to reduce chain slap







    and while I'm at it I weighed the bike, still under 28 pounds, came right in at 27.92 and I hope to drop a lil more when I get the150 talas qr15

    Last edited by Yody; 01-24-2010 at 12:04 AM.

  2. #2
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    sweet set-up!

    looks like you need the HD!

    the bash guard looks burly...it is less than a triple ring?

    are you happy you got the white bike? I am debating over white or black for my frame I am about to order.

    thanks

  3. #3
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    Nice lookin SL Yody.Seems like your trying to keep the weight down, so I was wondering why you didn't mount the $12.00, guaranteed for life, 52 gram BBG guard?

  4. #4
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    Bashguard is plastic and yeah it weighs 12 grams less than the big ring, its pretty light.

    I'm happy with the white bike, it looks really nice, I wouldn't buy another white bike though, it just starts to look like **** if you don't keep it up which means a lot of washing and cleaning. I really wanted the matte black but ended up with a white because I had to have now.

    I'd love to have a HD but honestly I think once I get this 150 fork on this bike its going to be a real traill killer. I think once you start getting past 140 mm of rear travel bikes start to lose that playful feel. I could see one down the road but for now I'm stilll having fun on this bike

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by xc71
    Nice lookin SL Yody.Seems like your trying to keep the weight down, so I was wondering why you didn't mount the $12.00, guaranteed for life, 52 gram BBG guard?
    Well this guard was really only $10 turned out I had to order the Saint bolt kit to work with it which was the additional $14.

    I'm not a real bigtime weight watcher, but I do check stuff out for the hell of it and try to reduce weight where possible, its not really a huge concern though. And I liked the look of the Saint guard as it matches the cranks nicely

  6. #6
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    nevermind
    Last edited by Yody; 01-24-2010 at 12:07 AM.

  7. #7
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    looks good

  8. #8
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    Yody .. this looks pretty much the set up I'm looking for to add to my Mojo I also have XTR cranks but was never quite sure what I needed .. you say the bashguard is plastic ?? have you hit any big rocks with it yet ?? also I'm not very good at the mechanic's and would probably ask my LBS to carry out the work if I purchased the parts.
    Do you feel a difference with the chainstay guide ?
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  9. #9
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    I'm currently running the same setup. I've actually had the bash guard for a few years and it hasn't broken yet. The only issue I have with the guide is it moves into the chainstay when it gets bumped/hit going over logs, rocks, etc... The damage from the guide is minimal; however, when the guide is up against the stay the chain starts wearing into the carbon when in the granny. One way around this is to getter a bigger bash guard.
    I have a DRS w/36T bash on the way, so hopefully that helps some.
    Finding out that the HD did not have ISCG mounts was disappointing...

  10. #10
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    Out of curiosity why go with the talas 150 vs. the float 150? The a-c height change is minimal based on Ibis specs and you may save a bit more weight (i have no idea what they weigh).
    I'm running a talas 36 and notice that unless I change the shock setup it feels like it is more difficult to pedal when I drop the travel to 130. My guess was that the weight shift on the rear suspension was causing the problem, so to test I ran more sag in the rear while the fork was at 130 which seemed to fix it. That may have been why I felt the need to run more air in the RP23 with the fork at 160. At this point the only time I lower the fork is so that it fits in the car.

  11. #11
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    I sometimes come across real steep climbs, or long climbs where the lower travel settings make it easier for me as the bars aren't so high and I don't have to spend as much energy worrying about the front wheel coming up, also on realy techy stuff its nice to have it low on occasion. I've just become used to it and like it, I could probably live without it, if my wheels took a 20mm TA I'd be on a revelation 150

  12. #12
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    Took the bike out for its first ride since the guide/bash install. Its been storming bad here for the past few weeks so only limited time riding. Was a total mud bath though, probably one of the top muddiest rides Ive ever done. Anyway..... OMG cant believe I waited so long to dod this. There really are no words to describe the way it feels to climb and descend with no chain slap, clatter, or noise. To me it is well worth the added drag that the pulley puts on the drivetrain.

    Speaking of, if I crank the pulley up high enough to put it where it needs to be to properly tension the chain correctly it does put a reasonable amount of drag on the pedals. . Its okay though because it wasn't all that noticable pedaling and the fact that I no longer hear the chain rattling around is worth it x 10
    Last edited by Yody; 01-28-2010 at 10:02 AM.

  13. #13
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    Also just as a note to anyone else considering going with this setup, I raised the pulley farther up than whats int the pics. The chain was not tensioned enough with the pulley that low. Its tricky though because as soon as you properly tension the chain you can feel the resistance in the pedals. They no longer spin freely. So in my head I wanted to leave the tension looser but really that defeats the purpose of a chain guide right? I raised the stinger all the way up only leaving maybe a 1/4" gap between the Stinger bracket and the botom of the rear triangle. Luckily I already had apatch of rubber glued to the bottom of the rear triangle for previous chain slap so if the stinger does get bumped up from a log or something hopefully it doesn't dig into the carbon.

  14. #14
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    Problem I ran into with a BS Stinger on my Mojo was that it increased the frequency of chain suck, which really sucked (pun intended).
    Gotta watch that as when you get chainsuck with that guide it can chew through that little metal/plastique (that's french) chainstay carbon guard as it just forces the chain up into the 'sucked' position a lot tighter. That's what she said.

    But keeping the chain slap noise down and damage to the rest of the chainstay was worth it IMO, despite a small weight penalty.

  15. #15
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    I've done two really muddy rides, like really really muddy and the shifting actually seems better now and the chain suck has gone away? Also I already jbwelded that stupid chrome guard back on after it kept falling offf, that sucker isn't going anywhere now

    The ONLY negative to this setup I"ve found so far is the fact that you are decreasing the pedaling efficiency by putting drag on the chain. But for me, its sooooo worth it to not drop the chain anymore and quiet down the system. The 90 grams or so I don't mind one bit

  16. #16
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    I've done two really muddy rides, like really really muddy and the shifting actually seems better now and the chain suck has gone away? Also I already jbwelded that stupid chrome guard back on after it kept falling offf, that sucker isn't going anywhere now

    The ONLY negative to this setup I"ve found so far is the fact that you are decreasing the pedaling efficiency by putting drag on the chain. But for me, its sooooo worth it to not drop the chain anymore and quiet down the system. The 90 grams or so I don't mind one bit

  17. #17
    _dw
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    With the roller being so low on your guide I don't think that it will be doing much for you in the middle ring at sag. The chain won't be touching the roller very often. You can forget about it being effective in the granny gear. The chain won't touch the roller at all.
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by _dw
    With the roller being so low on your guide I don't think that it will be doing much for you in the middle ring at sag. The chain won't be touching the roller very often. You can forget about it being effective in the granny gear. The chain won't touch the roller at all.
    Forgive my ignorance of chain guides, but would you really need it when you're in the granny gear? I figure the time you'd be bumping along at high speeds is when you're in the middle ring.

    I've still got the big ring on my bike, but I pretty much only use it to take up the slack in the chain when I'm going down hill to avoid chain slap.

    I think having a quieter bike when descending makes a big difference. It makes you feel faster and more confident when it doesn't sound like your bike is about to fall apart.
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by GuruAtma
    Forgive my ignorance of chain guides, but would you really need it when you're in the granny gear? I figure the time you'd be bumping along at high speeds is when you're in the middle ring.

    I've still got the big ring on my bike, but I pretty much only use it to take up the slack in the chain when I'm going down hill to avoid chain slap.

    I think having a quieter bike when descending makes a big difference. It makes you feel faster and more confident when it doesn't sound like your bike is about to fall apart.
    The biggest advantage of the guide, IMO, is when going over bumpy stuff it acts as a chain damper and reduces chain slack going up the front of the rings.
    Here's what I mean:
    1. hit a bump, and the rear der arm moves up towards the chainstay.
    2. this causes the chain to get loose and kind of creates a chain wave heading towards the chainrings.
    3a. without the lower roller, that wave can continue around the rings and you risk dropping the chain off the rings.
    3b. with the roller it eliminates the chain wave where the roller is, and reduces the chance of dropping the chain. Since less of the chain can flap around, you then get smaller waves, helping to reduce the chain from slapping on the chainstay, thus reducing the noise.
    It's like building a reef around a beach. You end up with a nice quiet/calm beach by controlling the waves.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by _dw
    With the roller being so low on your guide I don't think that it will be doing much for you in the middle ring at sag. The chain won't be touching the roller very often. You can forget about it being effective in the granny gear. The chain won't touch the roller at all.

    Sorry you must of missed the post right above where I describe that since those pictures were taken I had raised the pulley, hadn't ever ridden at the time those original pics were taken. However I do appreciate the advice as if anyone else looks at this post, I think its important for them to find out like I did, that there is no point in running a chain guide if you don't properly tension the chain.

    Quote Originally Posted by _Yody
    Also just as a note to anyone else considering going with this setup, I raised the pulley farther up than whats int the pics. The chain was not tensioned enough with the pulley that low.
    In these pics you can see where the roller sits now, and how that is as high as the roller can go before creating too tight clearance between the lower part of the rear triangle and the bracket for the Stinger. In this position so far the guide has been working very very well.




  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by GuruAtma
    Forgive my ignorance of chain guides, but would you really need it when you're in the granny gear? I figure the time you'd be bumping along at high speeds is when you're in the middle ring.

    I've still got the big ring on my bike, but I pretty much only use it to take up the slack in the chain when I'm going down hill to avoid chain slap.

    I think having a quieter bike when descending makes a big difference. It makes you feel faster and more confident when it doesn't sound like your bike is about to fall apart.
    You're totally right and on point. What DW was saying though, was that in the original pics the roller is not high enough to take enough slack out of the system to make the guide worth it, you will see in many peoples pictures, a chain guide that does not take enough slack out making it nearly useless. They probably have theirs setup like this for the same reason I did at first which was that when you crank up the pulley it really creates a drag on the pedals which probably scares some people. For me its just something to get used to and the small inefficiency in pedaling is a small sacrifice to have a quiet drivetrain over rough terrain

  22. #22
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    so if you're just having 2 rings in front, would you shorten the chain and use a med. cage derailleur? And wouldn't this also reduce a lot of chain slack/slap even without a chain guide? Though I'm sure the guide does it even more
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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by GuruAtma
    so if you're just having 2 rings in front, would you shorten the chain and use a med. cage derailleur? And wouldn't this also reduce a lot of chain slack/slap even without a chain guide? Though I'm sure the guide does it even more
    Yes to all above, except I'd doubt if it would reduce chain slap nearly as much as adding a guide

  24. #24
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    How many links did you remove from the chain when you installed the bash guard and stinger

  25. #25
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    Yody, I think what _dw is saying is the the roller is still pretty fr away from the frame, even in your later pictures. On mine the chin barely misses the frame. I have mine as far up as possible. I'll post pics later.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dictatorsaurus
    How many links did you remove from the chain when you installed the bash guard and stinger
    Somewhere around 4, but I wouldn't use a link count to make the changes.
    Put it in the largest cog and middle ring and pull tight until the rear der won't move anymore, then add 2 links to that length.

  27. #27
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    I heard some people remove as much as 10 links.

    You method seems better though since not all drivetrains are alike.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by dan51
    Yody, I think what _dw is saying is the the roller is still pretty fr away from the frame, even in your later pictures. On mine the chin barely misses the frame. I have mine as far up as possible. I'll post pics later.
    There's only an 1/8" gap between the chain stay and stinger bracket and quite a bit of tension on the chain, I guess you just can't tell in the pics.

    FYI My chain was already pretty short since I was running a medium cage derailleur to start with, IIRC I took about 2-3 links out after removing the Big Ring.

  29. #29
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    Okay last pics but these should clear up any confusion to how high you can mount this guide on the Mojo. As Dan 51 said, after checking you have to watch the stinger bracket clearance to the bottom rear swingarm, and how much room you have between the pulley and the bottom of the swingarm for the chain to pass thru in small ring



    I also ditched the lightweight MRP wheel, at least for now and went back with the stock Blackspire wheel. When I tightend the bolt down the wheel won't spin freely?

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yody
    Okay last pics but these should clear up any confusion to how high you can mount this guide on the Mojo. As Dan 51 said, after checking you have to watch the stinger bracket clearance to the bottom rear swingarm, and how much room you have between the pulley and the bottom of the swingarm for the chain to pass thru in small ring



    I also ditched the lightweight MRP wheel, at least for now and went back with the stock Blackspire wheel. When I tightend the bolt down the wheel won't spin freely?
    That pic explains it all. I looked at mine and am setup similarly. I'm tempted to take the guide to my grinding wheel and carve out some of it so it fits closer.

  31. #31
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    I don;t think grinding will help. If you raise the pulley any higher then chain will hit the swingarm, I don;t find this a problem though, so far it feels as if my chain guide is working nicely.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yody
    I also ditched the lightweight MRP wheel, at least for now and went back with the stock Blackspire wheel. When I tightend the bolt down the wheel won't spin freely?
    Was there a small washer between the wheel and arm?? If not thats why it wont spin, try putting another or more washers between the 2. I use disc brakes washer shims, work excellent.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guy.Ford
    Was there a small washer between the wheel and arm?? If not thats why it wont spin, try putting another or more washers between the 2. I use disc brakes washer shims, work excellent.
    There was on the original stinger wheel but not on the lightweight MRP wheel. It has more of a bushing system rather than a bearing?

  34. #34
    ebe
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    The lightweight version

    I just installed the Salsa Ring Dinger and a 36t Stronglight chainring. Saved me a total of 60 gram.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Pics of the Bashguard and Guide I just installed-3img_2296.jpg  

    Pics of the Bashguard and Guide I just installed-4img_2329.jpg  


  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yody
    Okay last pics but these should clear up any confusion to how high you can mount this guide on the Mojo. As Dan 51 said, after checking you have to watch the stinger bracket clearance to the bottom rear swingarm, and how much room you have between the pulley and the bottom of the swingarm for the chain to pass thru in small ring



    I also ditched the lightweight MRP wheel, at least for now and went back with the stock Blackspire wheel. When I tightend the bolt down the wheel won't spin freely?
    This picture just made the decision for me to not bother with the stinger...it totally undoes the increased clearance of getting rid of the big ring, which is exactly why I am debating getting rid of it and replacing with a bash guard. My big rings always get smashed and are useless quite quickly.

  36. #36
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    I did it for the opposite reason, I wanted teh chain guide and since they don't really work with a triple whats the point of having a big rings. Also a friend was telling me how he had a friend who crashed and ripped his leg open on his big ring and had to ride out before going to the hospital to get stitches. I don't really plan on bashing anything, although it happens occasionly. I am hoping htat when it does just the front part of the bash hits and slides before the rear wheel hits the obstacle and pushes the bike up and over before the chain guide wheel hits?

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by ebe
    I just installed the Salsa Ring Dinger and a 36t Stronglight chainring. Saved me a total of 60 gram.
    Think how much more you could save of you dumped the frt der, frt shifter and the 22t sissy ring!!

    Looks nice though, just a suggestion since you seem to like saving weight. Oh and before you tell me about the grueling climbs in your area, 2 words, Mark Weir.

  38. #38
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    Opposite reason…? Well I did it mainly because of ground clearance but it will also protect my leg from the chain ring (even if the Bash ring is only 4mm wide). The weight saving is only a bonus.

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guy.Ford
    Think how much more you could save of you dumped the frt der, frt shifter and the 22t sissy ring!!

    Looks nice though, just a suggestion since you seem to like saving weight. Oh and before you tell me about the grueling climbs in your area, 2 words, Mark Weir.
    I've been contemplating this, but everytime I'm on some steep grueling climb, I just could not imagine not having my "sissy" 22T

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yody
    I've been contemplating this, but everytime I'm on some steep grueling climb, I just could not imagine not having my "sissy" 22T

    Awwww you could do it, trust me its not that hard. Its def something you have to work up to, but completely do able. Its one of the top 5 upgrades Ive ever made to a bike. Super quiet and simple!!!

  41. #41
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    Maybe in the future

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    single cody. if i can push a 36T you can to
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  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yody
    Maybe in the future
    The future is now, for it is what you (we) make of it.

  44. #44
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    Thought I'd update this thread, just put a raceface 36T middle ring on, previously was running a 32 which was stock with the XTR cranks.

    Since the Saint bashguard was only good for up to 34T I had to get a new guard as well, poor planning on my part previously. So I put a Salsa Ring Dinger on which is even lighter and was $25, the stock chain ring bolts worked too. The Raceface chain ring was $35

    I'm just about to go take it for a spin so no impression yet, I'm pretty sure what to expect tho, not rocket science.

    Another nice thing is that now the chain guide roller wheel is tucked up because of the bigger ring/bash. Doesn't look like I'll have to worry about hitting it like I used to with the 32 setup. Also put more tension on the chain (when in the middle ring)


  45. #45
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    Nice one Yody

    I've been thinking about taking out my big ring as I'm not using them. The single track I ride even the rolling section does not require the large ring. You just gave me the idea may be I'd do the same just take out my big ring and slap on the stinger which I already have and get some bash guard.

    Sweet bike.

  46. #46
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    Thanks, the 32 ring was working for me, but on a lot of sections I realized I just needed more gear, especially rolling trails with flat sections. Seems most people go to 36T so it seemed like the logical thing to do. You might consider doing the same the first time around. Or at least get a bash that can go up to 36

  47. #47
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    I'm running a SLX 22/36 on my Moment and Hammerschmidt 22/36 on my Seven, so I'm used to the 36t. On my Mojo I have the standard ring set and not gone up to 44 ring at all so may be it's time to retire it
    Thanks for the input.

  48. #48
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    Hey, Yody, I was just looking at your pics and thinking something looked wrong with your front derailleur - it looks way too high. And then I realized that it looks like you're using a top-swing derailleur, no? Mojo's designed for a bottom-swing derailleur. I don't think you can get the top-swing down into the sweet-shift zone, around 2mm clearance of your big ring/bashguard.
    "I thought you'd never love me without my Mojo." -Austin Powers

  49. #49
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    Help me

    Quote Originally Posted by mtb143
    Hey, Yody, I was just looking at your pics and thinking something looked wrong with your front derailleur - it looks way too high. And then I realized that it looks like you're using a top-swing derailleur, no? Mojo's designed for a bottom-swing derailleur. I don't think you can get the top-swing down into the sweet-shift zone, around 2mm clearance of your big ring/bashguard.

    I thought in the pic is the bottom-swing der. Can you help me clarify this. The only info I on the manual is that the mojo require 34.9mm top pull, bottom swing der. Unless, it's change. But the pic is a bottom swing for sure looks like a top pull as well.

  50. #50
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    Yeah, I think you're right and I'm a tard. Well, I am, but I already knew that. I just looked up derailleur pics on the Shimano website, and Yody's matches the bottom-swing.

    I'm left a bit puzzled though by the huge gap between the outside bottom edge of the derailleur and the bash guard. Compare that to how much space you can see on the seat-tube below the derailleur clamp - not much room to move the derailleur down. Not enough to put the derailleur where it's supposed to be relative to the rings. That's why I was thinking it was a top-swing. Hmm...does a bashring have that much of a lower profile, could that be it?
    "I thought you'd never love me without my Mojo." -Austin Powers

  51. #51
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    you are right though, it looks a little high. Yody do you have any clearance issue with the bash ring?, Thanks

    BTW, What do you think about E13 DRS, thinking about putting it on my mojo

  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yody
    Thought I'd update this thread, just put a raceface 36T middle ring on, previously was running a 32 which was stock with the XTR cranks.

    Since the Saint bashguard was only good for up to 34T I had to get a new guard as well, poor planning on my part previously. So I put a Salsa Ring Dinger on which is even lighter and was $25, the stock chain ring bolts worked too. The Raceface chain ring was $35

    I'm just about to go take it for a spin so no impression yet, I'm pretty sure what to expect tho, not rocket science.

    Another nice thing is that now the chain guide roller wheel is tucked up because of the bigger ring/bash. Doesn't look like I'll have to worry about hitting it like I used to with the 32 setup. Also put more tension on the chain (when in the middle ring)
    Is your stinger pulley touching the bashring? The setup guide says to have it 'lightly touching'. This would mean that the pulley is rotating anti-clockwise (at approx 10x the bashring speed) whilst pedalling, resulting in the chain being helped on its way as it passes over the pulley instead of being dragged across a slowly rotating or static pulley. I'm awaiting delivery of my stinger and will see if pulley/bashring contact makes any difference to chain drag.
    A green bird with a red body. We could look it up in a book. Or we could look up

  53. #53
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    I've had it lightly touching and not touching, I haven't noticed a difference either way

  54. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by mimi1885
    you are right though, it looks a little high. Yody do you have any clearance issue with the bash ring?, Thanks

    BTW, What do you think about E13 DRS, thinking about putting it on my mojo
    You want the stinger/roller wheel as high as possible.

    I don't have any experience with the E13

  55. #55
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    So two rides on my mojo with a similar setup (blackspire stinger, 34t ring and guard).

    Both rides the stinger started off much further from the rear triangle, and has moved so its about as close as the pic above. I think, (but not positive) that it moves during the ride, and the triangle just pushes it back so there is a gap similar to these pics. When I jump and the frame tops out, I think I hear it hitting the guide. Not want. But I'm wondering how much force this is, and if its really that bad (if I protect the stay more). I tightened down the BB cups pretty darn good for the second ride, fwiw.

    Also results in the chain getting stuck when in granny (I don't believe it was chain suck, but a function of the the suspension and the stay grabbing the chain because it was so close.

    Any halp? I need to cover more of the stay with some rubber or a tube.

    Yody, that guard is for up to 36t right? I think I might be more successul with the chain catching the stays if I move the pulley a bit further away (to a 36t guard distance). Imagine in your pic if the pulley was closer to the BB, the chain would be too.

  56. #56
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    Yes it should help, I put some rubber padding on the chain stay and every now and then if I hit a log I'll have to readjust it when I get home, kind of a nuisance but it doesn't happen that often. I can tell because like you said, in small ring it rubs and doesn't shift right. The salsa ring dinger that I put on is for a 36T I posted pictures of it later in the thread, the first pics has a Saint guard which is only good for 34

  57. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by grrrah
    So two rides on my mojo with a similar setup (blackspire stinger, 34t ring and guard).

    Both rides the stinger started off much further from the rear triangle, and has moved so its about as close as the pic above. I think, (but not positive) that it moves during the ride, and the triangle just pushes it back so there is a gap similar to these pics. When I jump and the frame tops out, I think I hear it hitting the guide. Not want. But I'm wondering how much force this is, and if its really that bad (if I protect the stay more). I tightened down the BB cups pretty darn good for the second ride, fwiw.

    Also results in the chain getting stuck when in granny (I don't believe it was chain suck, but a function of the the suspension and the stay grabbing the chain because it was so close.

    Any halp? I need to cover more of the stay with some rubber or a tube.

    Yody, that guard is for up to 36t right? I think I might be more successul with the chain catching the stays if I move the pulley a bit further away (to a 36t guard distance). Imagine in your pic if the pulley was closer to the BB, the chain would be too.
    grrrah, welcome to the Ibis family.

    Mine was doing chainsuck when in granny, and it was because the roller got too close to the chainstay. It was so bad I rode it as 1X9 for a few weeks until I took a closer look. What I found was the chain was staying in the groove that lines up with the middle ring instead of along the section for the granny ring. This was twisting the chain weird, and chainsuck would happen easily under a heavy/moderate load. Last week I moved the roller farther away from the chainstay and haven't had a single problem since.

  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yody
    The salsa ring dinger that I put on is for a 36T I posted pictures of it later in the thread, the first pics has a Saint guard which is only good for 34
    Didn't know about the salsa bash guard, but I've had good luck with bbg bashguard with are very light, comes in colors/design, and are the right thickness so you don't have to get defferent bolts, unlike the Saint Guard you first used (and cheaper than all as well at $12).

    My mojo came with a carbon version of that bash guard (mrp I think - label is gone now) which I grinded down from 36T to 32T to get back to clearance I had on my MKIII (which I sold with bash guard).



    Getting rid of 3rd ring made clearing logs so much easier, and I never really needed 44T anyway, but wanted to protect my BB rings. Don't use a chain guide, and I still get some chain slap (shorten chain as much as possible, have XTR shadow long case in the back) but never had it dropped. Neoprene protector does a good job for the most part, so I'm ok.

  59. #59
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    Thanks, am gonna try to just move to roller a bit further away, and see if that helps (and protect the stay since I think its moving even without hitting the guide on a log or something)
    Quote Originally Posted by dan51
    grrrah, welcome to the Ibis family.
    The bike is sweet! I realized ripping down ridge/sawpit and sweetness that its exactly what I was hoping for. Now I just need to work on my fitness.

    First pics of the bike:
    before the guide moved, in granny.

    edit: photocredit to Diesel!
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by grrrah; 06-10-2010 at 05:21 PM.

  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by grrrah
    Now I just need to work on my fitness.
    And those brake lines...

  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by grrrah
    Thanks, am gonna try to just move to roller a bit further away, and see if that helps (and protect the stay since I think its moving even without hitting the guide on a log or something)

    The bike is sweet! I realized ripping down ridge/sawpit and sweetness that its exactly what I was hoping for. Now I just need to work on my fitness.

    First pics of the bike:
    before the guide moved, in granny.
    sweet bike! I am thinking about getting blue but leaning towards white

  62. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by dan51
    And those brake lines...
    +1

    I'd hate to see you snare your head in that front line in a crash.

  63. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by dan51
    And those brake lines...
    too long? thats what she said!

    punk!
    (white brake lines ordered, then these can go back on the other bike)

  64. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by grrrah
    Thanks, am gonna try to just move to roller a bit further away, and see if that helps (and protect the stay since I think its moving even without hitting the guide on a log or something)

    The bike is sweet! I realized ripping down ridge/sawpit and sweetness that its exactly what I was hoping for. Now I just need to work on my fitness.

    First pics of the bike:
    before the guide moved, in granny.
    Man, I need to start watermarking my photos....guess you got the link I sent over!

    Glad you are enjoying your bike.

    -D

  65. #65
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    ooops, my bad, yup, thanks for the pics. Proper credit to due to Diesel~ !

    Semi-update on the moving chainguide:

    So the spacers I was using were the 2.5mm plastic spacers that come with the XT cranks. I swapped the drivetrain side spacer with a 3.0mm aluminum spacer (where do I find these parts in my garage that mysteriously fit?).

    One ride so far and it stayed put. No log crossings or rocks to hit the guide though, more XC than the first 2 days of riding.

  66. #66
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    Interresting, sounds like the aluminum spacer creates more friction against the guide plate.

  67. #67
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    Hey Yody, i got a Saint bash guard lying around, and i'm considering mounting it onto my crankset, but i've read in some other thread here that the Saint bash guard doesn't quite fit the XTR crankset - the cut out space for the crank arm needed to be filed down a bit. Did you also have to remove some material from the bash guard to get it to fit your cranks?

  68. #68
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    Yup, had to shave it a lil, no big deal, it was easy, gotta have the longer chainringbolts to use that guard tho

  69. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yody
    Yup, had to shave it a lil, no big deal, it was easy, gotta have the longer chainringbolts to use that guard tho
    I also bought the Saint bolts too, is this what you used?

  70. #70
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    Yup, not using anymore but when I was using that guard, yes.

  71. #71
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    Guys,

    I also am planning going on the two ring way and started out a thread about which bashguard and chainguide and or tensioner to use. After much research, a majority use the Blackspire Stinger coupled with a bashguard. I plan to run the stinger on an SLX Crankset. My question is do I need to change any of my BB spacers? The reason I ask is that I am somewhat confused since some posts say they have changed spacers to smaller widths while others have not.

    Any thoughts on this?

  72. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by tandem
    Guys,

    I also am planning going on the two ring way and started out a thread about which bashguard and chainguide and or tensioner to use. After much research, a majority use the Blackspire Stinger coupled with a bashguard. I plan to run the stinger on an SLX Crankset. My question is do I need to change any of my BB spacers? The reason I ask is that I am somewhat confused since some posts say they have changed spacers to smaller widths while others have not.

    Any thoughts on this?
    Yes, you do need to change spacers.
    According to the setup instructions for it, you just need one factory spacer.
    http://www.blackspire.com/site_asset...etup_guide.pdf
    I'm skeptical about that. In my experience these chainguides are NOT 2.5mm thick, so I've always found some thinner spacers are needed to make up the difference.

    Without the additional spacers, what I have seen is bottom brackets do not go all the way into the frame due to the black plastic sleeve that sits between them.

    I got the e13 DS and it came with 3 1mm spacers and 1 .5mm spacer.

  73. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by d-bug
    Yes, you do need to change spacers.
    According to the setup instructions for it, you just need one factory spacer.
    http://www.blackspire.com/site_asset...etup_guide.pdf
    I'm skeptical about that. In my experience these chainguides are NOT 2.5mm thick, so I've always found some thinner spacers are needed to make up the difference.

    Without the additional spacers, what I have seen is bottom brackets do not go all the way into the frame due to the black plastic sleeve that sits between them.

    I got the e13 DS and it came with 3 1mm spacers and 1 .5mm spacer.
    thanks d-bug! I know the SLX Hollowtech's BBs come with 2.5mm spacers. 2 on the drive side (making a total width of 5mm), 1 on the non-drive side.

    Just to be sure, the Blackspire Stinger I believe is 3mm in width. So I need a 2mm spacer on the drive side to equal the total width of 5mm of the previous two 2.5mm spacers??

  74. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by tandem
    thanks d-bug! I know the SLX Hollowtech's BBs come with 2.5mm spacers. 2 on the drive side (making a total width of 5mm), 1 on the non-drive side.

    Just to be sure, the Blackspire Stinger I believe is 3mm in width. So I need a 2mm spacer on the drive side to equal the total width of 5mm of the previous two 2.5mm spacers??
    I'd be surprised if the Stinger was over 2mm, but I've never gotten a good look at one.
    Whatever you do, the stuff between the BB shell and BB cup needs to add up to 5mm. You might not be able to get it perfect and don't worry yourself if you can't. On the bike with the Heim guide I'm running about 5.5-5.75mm with no problems.

  75. #75
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    d-bug,

    thanks for the quick reply. I really appreciate it. Just measured the stinger and it is 3mm. so without changing spacers, I'll have a total width of 5.5mm. I'll see if I can find a 2mm spacer from a nearby LBS so that when I work on the bike, I'll have all the necessary parts available on hand.

  76. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by tandem
    d-bug,

    thanks for the quick reply. I really appreciate it. Just measured the stinger and it is 3mm. so without changing spacers, I'll have a total width of 5.5mm. I'll see if I can find a 2mm spacer from a nearby LBS so that when I work on the bike, I'll have all the necessary parts available on hand.
    If you can't find a 2mm or 2 1mm spacers don't sweat the extra .5.

  77. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by d-bug
    If you can't find a 2mm or 2 1mm spacers don't sweat the extra .5.
    got it! thanks again!

  78. #78
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    I'm running the stinger with (1) stock shimano spacer with no problems

  79. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yody
    I'm running the stinger with (1) stock shimano spacer with no problems
    thanks Yody.

    Quick question if you don't mind, how did you mount the spacer and the stinger?

    Was the spacer between the frame and the stinger or did you mount the stinger beside the frame and then the spacer?

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