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  1. #1
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    Pics of the Bashguard and Guide I just installed

    Probably not a whole lot of Ibis riders who care but here's a few pics of the Bash Guard and Chain Guide I just installed today.

    After reading feedback from a post that I made earlier this week here and consulting with my friend I decided to upgrade from a standard Triple Ring setup to a Bashguard, 2 ring setup with a chain guide.

    I didn't want to ad a bunch of weight or spend a lot of money so f I got a Shimano Saint bashguard and bolt kit for $25. Actually weighs slightly less than the XTR big ring. The guard was 72 grams and the XTR big ring was 82. For now I'm keeping the stock 22/32 gearing and will see how that works out, I might want to try the XTR 34 tooth middle ring next instead of the 32 though as I'm worried I'll be running out of gear n the DH.

    I then added a $25 Blackspire Stinger Chain guide, which basically just sandwiches between the BB cup and the frame. I also upgraded the pulley to a MRP lightweight pully which is supposed to save some weight and make the wheel quiter.

    I haven't had it out on the trail yet since we're in the middle of a storm but here's a few pics. I'm hoping my chain doesn't fall off as much and to reduce chain slap







    and while I'm at it I weighed the bike, still under 28 pounds, came right in at 27.92 and I hope to drop a lil more when I get the150 talas qr15

    Last edited by Yody; 01-23-2010 at 11:04 PM.

  2. #2
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    sweet set-up!

    looks like you need the HD!

    the bash guard looks burly...it is less than a triple ring?

    are you happy you got the white bike? I am debating over white or black for my frame I am about to order.

    thanks

  3. #3
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    Nice lookin SL Yody.Seems like your trying to keep the weight down, so I was wondering why you didn't mount the $12.00, guaranteed for life, 52 gram BBG guard?

  4. #4
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    Bashguard is plastic and yeah it weighs 12 grams less than the big ring, its pretty light.

    I'm happy with the white bike, it looks really nice, I wouldn't buy another white bike though, it just starts to look like **** if you don't keep it up which means a lot of washing and cleaning. I really wanted the matte black but ended up with a white because I had to have now.

    I'd love to have a HD but honestly I think once I get this 150 fork on this bike its going to be a real traill killer. I think once you start getting past 140 mm of rear travel bikes start to lose that playful feel. I could see one down the road but for now I'm stilll having fun on this bike

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by xc71
    Nice lookin SL Yody.Seems like your trying to keep the weight down, so I was wondering why you didn't mount the $12.00, guaranteed for life, 52 gram BBG guard?
    Well this guard was really only $10 turned out I had to order the Saint bolt kit to work with it which was the additional $14.

    I'm not a real bigtime weight watcher, but I do check stuff out for the hell of it and try to reduce weight where possible, its not really a huge concern though. And I liked the look of the Saint guard as it matches the cranks nicely

  6. #6
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    nevermind
    Last edited by Yody; 01-23-2010 at 11:07 PM.

  7. #7
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    looks good

  8. #8
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    Yody .. this looks pretty much the set up I'm looking for to add to my Mojo I also have XTR cranks but was never quite sure what I needed .. you say the bashguard is plastic ?? have you hit any big rocks with it yet ?? also I'm not very good at the mechanic's and would probably ask my LBS to carry out the work if I purchased the parts.
    Do you feel a difference with the chainstay guide ?
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  9. #9
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    I'm currently running the same setup. I've actually had the bash guard for a few years and it hasn't broken yet. The only issue I have with the guide is it moves into the chainstay when it gets bumped/hit going over logs, rocks, etc... The damage from the guide is minimal; however, when the guide is up against the stay the chain starts wearing into the carbon when in the granny. One way around this is to getter a bigger bash guard.
    I have a DRS w/36T bash on the way, so hopefully that helps some.
    Finding out that the HD did not have ISCG mounts was disappointing...

  10. #10
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    Out of curiosity why go with the talas 150 vs. the float 150? The a-c height change is minimal based on Ibis specs and you may save a bit more weight (i have no idea what they weigh).
    I'm running a talas 36 and notice that unless I change the shock setup it feels like it is more difficult to pedal when I drop the travel to 130. My guess was that the weight shift on the rear suspension was causing the problem, so to test I ran more sag in the rear while the fork was at 130 which seemed to fix it. That may have been why I felt the need to run more air in the RP23 with the fork at 160. At this point the only time I lower the fork is so that it fits in the car.

  11. #11
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    I sometimes come across real steep climbs, or long climbs where the lower travel settings make it easier for me as the bars aren't so high and I don't have to spend as much energy worrying about the front wheel coming up, also on realy techy stuff its nice to have it low on occasion. I've just become used to it and like it, I could probably live without it, if my wheels took a 20mm TA I'd be on a revelation 150

  12. #12
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    Took the bike out for its first ride since the guide/bash install. Its been storming bad here for the past few weeks so only limited time riding. Was a total mud bath though, probably one of the top muddiest rides Ive ever done. Anyway..... OMG cant believe I waited so long to dod this. There really are no words to describe the way it feels to climb and descend with no chain slap, clatter, or noise. To me it is well worth the added drag that the pulley puts on the drivetrain.

    Speaking of, if I crank the pulley up high enough to put it where it needs to be to properly tension the chain correctly it does put a reasonable amount of drag on the pedals. . Its okay though because it wasn't all that noticable pedaling and the fact that I no longer hear the chain rattling around is worth it x 10
    Last edited by Yody; 01-28-2010 at 09:02 AM.

  13. #13
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    Also just as a note to anyone else considering going with this setup, I raised the pulley farther up than whats int the pics. The chain was not tensioned enough with the pulley that low. Its tricky though because as soon as you properly tension the chain you can feel the resistance in the pedals. They no longer spin freely. So in my head I wanted to leave the tension looser but really that defeats the purpose of a chain guide right? I raised the stinger all the way up only leaving maybe a 1/4" gap between the Stinger bracket and the botom of the rear triangle. Luckily I already had apatch of rubber glued to the bottom of the rear triangle for previous chain slap so if the stinger does get bumped up from a log or something hopefully it doesn't dig into the carbon.

  14. #14
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    Problem I ran into with a BS Stinger on my Mojo was that it increased the frequency of chain suck, which really sucked (pun intended).
    Gotta watch that as when you get chainsuck with that guide it can chew through that little metal/plastique (that's french) chainstay carbon guard as it just forces the chain up into the 'sucked' position a lot tighter. That's what she said.

    But keeping the chain slap noise down and damage to the rest of the chainstay was worth it IMO, despite a small weight penalty.

  15. #15
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    I've done two really muddy rides, like really really muddy and the shifting actually seems better now and the chain suck has gone away? Also I already jbwelded that stupid chrome guard back on after it kept falling offf, that sucker isn't going anywhere now

    The ONLY negative to this setup I"ve found so far is the fact that you are decreasing the pedaling efficiency by putting drag on the chain. But for me, its sooooo worth it to not drop the chain anymore and quiet down the system. The 90 grams or so I don't mind one bit

  16. #16
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    I've done two really muddy rides, like really really muddy and the shifting actually seems better now and the chain suck has gone away? Also I already jbwelded that stupid chrome guard back on after it kept falling offf, that sucker isn't going anywhere now

    The ONLY negative to this setup I"ve found so far is the fact that you are decreasing the pedaling efficiency by putting drag on the chain. But for me, its sooooo worth it to not drop the chain anymore and quiet down the system. The 90 grams or so I don't mind one bit

  17. #17
    _dw
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    With the roller being so low on your guide I don't think that it will be doing much for you in the middle ring at sag. The chain won't be touching the roller very often. You can forget about it being effective in the granny gear. The chain won't touch the roller at all.
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by _dw
    With the roller being so low on your guide I don't think that it will be doing much for you in the middle ring at sag. The chain won't be touching the roller very often. You can forget about it being effective in the granny gear. The chain won't touch the roller at all.
    Forgive my ignorance of chain guides, but would you really need it when you're in the granny gear? I figure the time you'd be bumping along at high speeds is when you're in the middle ring.

    I've still got the big ring on my bike, but I pretty much only use it to take up the slack in the chain when I'm going down hill to avoid chain slap.

    I think having a quieter bike when descending makes a big difference. It makes you feel faster and more confident when it doesn't sound like your bike is about to fall apart.
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by GuruAtma
    Forgive my ignorance of chain guides, but would you really need it when you're in the granny gear? I figure the time you'd be bumping along at high speeds is when you're in the middle ring.

    I've still got the big ring on my bike, but I pretty much only use it to take up the slack in the chain when I'm going down hill to avoid chain slap.

    I think having a quieter bike when descending makes a big difference. It makes you feel faster and more confident when it doesn't sound like your bike is about to fall apart.
    The biggest advantage of the guide, IMO, is when going over bumpy stuff it acts as a chain damper and reduces chain slack going up the front of the rings.
    Here's what I mean:
    1. hit a bump, and the rear der arm moves up towards the chainstay.
    2. this causes the chain to get loose and kind of creates a chain wave heading towards the chainrings.
    3a. without the lower roller, that wave can continue around the rings and you risk dropping the chain off the rings.
    3b. with the roller it eliminates the chain wave where the roller is, and reduces the chance of dropping the chain. Since less of the chain can flap around, you then get smaller waves, helping to reduce the chain from slapping on the chainstay, thus reducing the noise.
    It's like building a reef around a beach. You end up with a nice quiet/calm beach by controlling the waves.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by _dw
    With the roller being so low on your guide I don't think that it will be doing much for you in the middle ring at sag. The chain won't be touching the roller very often. You can forget about it being effective in the granny gear. The chain won't touch the roller at all.

    Sorry you must of missed the post right above where I describe that since those pictures were taken I had raised the pulley, hadn't ever ridden at the time those original pics were taken. However I do appreciate the advice as if anyone else looks at this post, I think its important for them to find out like I did, that there is no point in running a chain guide if you don't properly tension the chain.

    Quote Originally Posted by _Yody
    Also just as a note to anyone else considering going with this setup, I raised the pulley farther up than whats int the pics. The chain was not tensioned enough with the pulley that low.
    In these pics you can see where the roller sits now, and how that is as high as the roller can go before creating too tight clearance between the lower part of the rear triangle and the bracket for the Stinger. In this position so far the guide has been working very very well.




  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by GuruAtma
    Forgive my ignorance of chain guides, but would you really need it when you're in the granny gear? I figure the time you'd be bumping along at high speeds is when you're in the middle ring.

    I've still got the big ring on my bike, but I pretty much only use it to take up the slack in the chain when I'm going down hill to avoid chain slap.

    I think having a quieter bike when descending makes a big difference. It makes you feel faster and more confident when it doesn't sound like your bike is about to fall apart.
    You're totally right and on point. What DW was saying though, was that in the original pics the roller is not high enough to take enough slack out of the system to make the guide worth it, you will see in many peoples pictures, a chain guide that does not take enough slack out making it nearly useless. They probably have theirs setup like this for the same reason I did at first which was that when you crank up the pulley it really creates a drag on the pedals which probably scares some people. For me its just something to get used to and the small inefficiency in pedaling is a small sacrifice to have a quiet drivetrain over rough terrain

  22. #22
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    so if you're just having 2 rings in front, would you shorten the chain and use a med. cage derailleur? And wouldn't this also reduce a lot of chain slack/slap even without a chain guide? Though I'm sure the guide does it even more
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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by GuruAtma
    so if you're just having 2 rings in front, would you shorten the chain and use a med. cage derailleur? And wouldn't this also reduce a lot of chain slack/slap even without a chain guide? Though I'm sure the guide does it even more
    Yes to all above, except I'd doubt if it would reduce chain slap nearly as much as adding a guide

  24. #24
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    How many links did you remove from the chain when you installed the bash guard and stinger

  25. #25
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    Yody, I think what _dw is saying is the the roller is still pretty fr away from the frame, even in your later pictures. On mine the chin barely misses the frame. I have mine as far up as possible. I'll post pics later.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dictatorsaurus
    How many links did you remove from the chain when you installed the bash guard and stinger
    Somewhere around 4, but I wouldn't use a link count to make the changes.
    Put it in the largest cog and middle ring and pull tight until the rear der won't move anymore, then add 2 links to that length.

  27. #27
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    I heard some people remove as much as 10 links.

    You method seems better though since not all drivetrains are alike.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by dan51
    Yody, I think what _dw is saying is the the roller is still pretty fr away from the frame, even in your later pictures. On mine the chin barely misses the frame. I have mine as far up as possible. I'll post pics later.
    There's only an 1/8" gap between the chain stay and stinger bracket and quite a bit of tension on the chain, I guess you just can't tell in the pics.

    FYI My chain was already pretty short since I was running a medium cage derailleur to start with, IIRC I took about 2-3 links out after removing the Big Ring.

  29. #29
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    Okay last pics but these should clear up any confusion to how high you can mount this guide on the Mojo. As Dan 51 said, after checking you have to watch the stinger bracket clearance to the bottom rear swingarm, and how much room you have between the pulley and the bottom of the swingarm for the chain to pass thru in small ring



    I also ditched the lightweight MRP wheel, at least for now and went back with the stock Blackspire wheel. When I tightend the bolt down the wheel won't spin freely?

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yody
    Okay last pics but these should clear up any confusion to how high you can mount this guide on the Mojo. As Dan 51 said, after checking you have to watch the stinger bracket clearance to the bottom rear swingarm, and how much room you have between the pulley and the bottom of the swingarm for the chain to pass thru in small ring



    I also ditched the lightweight MRP wheel, at least for now and went back with the stock Blackspire wheel. When I tightend the bolt down the wheel won't spin freely?
    That pic explains it all. I looked at mine and am setup similarly. I'm tempted to take the guide to my grinding wheel and carve out some of it so it fits closer.

  31. #31
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    I don;t think grinding will help. If you raise the pulley any higher then chain will hit the swingarm, I don;t find this a problem though, so far it feels as if my chain guide is working nicely.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yody
    I also ditched the lightweight MRP wheel, at least for now and went back with the stock Blackspire wheel. When I tightend the bolt down the wheel won't spin freely?
    Was there a small washer between the wheel and arm?? If not thats why it wont spin, try putting another or more washers between the 2. I use disc brakes washer shims, work excellent.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guy.Ford
    Was there a small washer between the wheel and arm?? If not thats why it wont spin, try putting another or more washers between the 2. I use disc brakes washer shims, work excellent.
    There was on the original stinger wheel but not on the lightweight MRP wheel. It has more of a bushing system rather than a bearing?

  34. #34
    ebe
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    The lightweight version

    I just installed the Salsa Ring Dinger and a 36t Stronglight chainring. Saved me a total of 60 gram.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Pics of the Bashguard and Guide I just installed-3img_2296.jpg  

    Pics of the Bashguard and Guide I just installed-4img_2329.jpg  


  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yody
    Okay last pics but these should clear up any confusion to how high you can mount this guide on the Mojo. As Dan 51 said, after checking you have to watch the stinger bracket clearance to the bottom rear swingarm, and how much room you have between the pulley and the bottom of the swingarm for the chain to pass thru in small ring



    I also ditched the lightweight MRP wheel, at least for now and went back with the stock Blackspire wheel. When I tightend the bolt down the wheel won't spin freely?
    This picture just made the decision for me to not bother with the stinger...it totally undoes the increased clearance of getting rid of the big ring, which is exactly why I am debating getting rid of it and replacing with a bash guard. My big rings always get smashed and are useless quite quickly.

  36. #36
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    I did it for the opposite reason, I wanted teh chain guide and since they don't really work with a triple whats the point of having a big rings. Also a friend was telling me how he had a friend who crashed and ripped his leg open on his big ring and had to ride out before going to the hospital to get stitches. I don't really plan on bashing anything, although it happens occasionly. I am hoping htat when it does just the front part of the bash hits and slides before the rear wheel hits the obstacle and pushes the bike up and over before the chain guide wheel hits?

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by ebe
    I just installed the Salsa Ring Dinger and a 36t Stronglight chainring. Saved me a total of 60 gram.
    Think how much more you could save of you dumped the frt der, frt shifter and the 22t sissy ring!!

    Looks nice though, just a suggestion since you seem to like saving weight. Oh and before you tell me about the grueling climbs in your area, 2 words, Mark Weir.

  38. #38
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    Opposite reason…? Well I did it mainly because of ground clearance but it will also protect my leg from the chain ring (even if the Bash ring is only 4mm wide). The weight saving is only a bonus.

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guy.Ford
    Think how much more you could save of you dumped the frt der, frt shifter and the 22t sissy ring!!

    Looks nice though, just a suggestion since you seem to like saving weight. Oh and before you tell me about the grueling climbs in your area, 2 words, Mark Weir.
    I've been contemplating this, but everytime I'm on some steep grueling climb, I just could not imagine not having my "sissy" 22T

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yody
    I've been contemplating this, but everytime I'm on some steep grueling climb, I just could not imagine not having my "sissy" 22T

    Awwww you could do it, trust me its not that hard. Its def something you have to work up to, but completely do able. Its one of the top 5 upgrades Ive ever made to a bike. Super quiet and simple!!!

  41. #41
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    Maybe in the future

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    single cody. if i can push a 36T you can to
    64,999,987 firearms owners killed no one yesterday.

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yody
    Maybe in the future
    The future is now, for it is what you (we) make of it.

  44. #44
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    Thought I'd update this thread, just put a raceface 36T middle ring on, previously was running a 32 which was stock with the XTR cranks.

    Since the Saint bashguard was only good for up to 34T I had to get a new guard as well, poor planning on my part previously. So I put a Salsa Ring Dinger on which is even lighter and was $25, the stock chain ring bolts worked too. The Raceface chain ring was $35

    I'm just about to go take it for a spin so no impression yet, I'm pretty sure what to expect tho, not rocket science.

    Another nice thing is that now the chain guide roller wheel is tucked up because of the bigger ring/bash. Doesn't look like I'll have to worry about hitting it like I used to with the 32 setup. Also put more tension on the chain (when in the middle ring)


  45. #45
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    Nice one Yody

    I've been thinking about taking out my big ring as I'm not using them. The single track I ride even the rolling section does not require the large ring. You just gave me the idea may be I'd do the same just take out my big ring and slap on the stinger which I already have and get some bash guard.

    Sweet bike.

  46. #46
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    Thanks, the 32 ring was working for me, but on a lot of sections I realized I just needed more gear, especially rolling trails with flat sections. Seems most people go to 36T so it seemed like the logical thing to do. You might consider doing the same the first time around. Or at least get a bash that can go up to 36

  47. #47
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    I'm running a SLX 22/36 on my Moment and Hammerschmidt 22/36 on my Seven, so I'm used to the 36t. On my Mojo I have the standard ring set and not gone up to 44 ring at all so may be it's time to retire it
    Thanks for the input.

  48. #48
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    Hey, Yody, I was just looking at your pics and thinking something looked wrong with your front derailleur - it looks way too high. And then I realized that it looks like you're using a top-swing derailleur, no? Mojo's designed for a bottom-swing derailleur. I don't think you can get the top-swing down into the sweet-shift zone, around 2mm clearance of your big ring/bashguard.
    "I thought you'd never love me without my Mojo." -Austin Powers

  49. #49
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    Help me

    Quote Originally Posted by mtb143
    Hey, Yody, I was just looking at your pics and thinking something looked wrong with your front derailleur - it looks way too high. And then I realized that it looks like you're using a top-swing derailleur, no? Mojo's designed for a bottom-swing derailleur. I don't think you can get the top-swing down into the sweet-shift zone, around 2mm clearance of your big ring/bashguard.

    I thought in the pic is the bottom-swing der. Can you help me clarify this. The only info I on the manual is that the mojo require 34.9mm top pull, bottom swing der. Unless, it's change. But the pic is a bottom swing for sure looks like a top pull as well.

  50. #50
    Church of the Wheel
    Reputation: mtb143's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    748
    Yeah, I think you're right and I'm a tard. Well, I am, but I already knew that. I just looked up derailleur pics on the Shimano website, and Yody's matches the bottom-swing.

    I'm left a bit puzzled though by the huge gap between the outside bottom edge of the derailleur and the bash guard. Compare that to how much space you can see on the seat-tube below the derailleur clamp - not much room to move the derailleur down. Not enough to put the derailleur where it's supposed to be relative to the rings. That's why I was thinking it was a top-swing. Hmm...does a bashring have that much of a lower profile, could that be it?
    "I thought you'd never love me without my Mojo." -Austin Powers

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