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  1. #1
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    Original Mojo or Mojo SL?

    Having some issues here... Why does the Mojo SL exist? It's not really all that different to the Mojo Carbon is it? Differences as far as I can see:

    1) It's 130grams lighter in the frame (disregarding the weight loss that you can get off the Mojo Carbon by swapping out the bolts and the RP23 for Ti and the DT Swiss shock)
    2) It's got the funky rubberized paint...

    What else is there that I'm missing? Is it stronger? Is it stiffer? Is it a more refined ride than the original (as a result of all the extra CAD work)? If it's none of these things, I should just go for the Carbon right? But I want the rubberized matte paint, don't like the overly glossy finish on the Carbon... aaargh!

    I'm pretty sure I'm going to buy a Mojo, (though I'm tempted to stay in The Tribe and go with a '08 Yeti 575 instead...) Basically wanting to build a 'tough as' All-Mountain trail bike; currently ride a Yeti ASR-sl and I want something with more travel, but still keeping most of the agility of my current steed

    I ride mostly XC & twisty singletrack (plus a lot of road miles to be honest!), but I love getting out to the UK trail parks and I really want to do a lot more 'wild' riding up in Scotland & in Wales, plus it'd be nice to head over to the Alps as well. So I'm basically trying to build a very versatile bike! This is going to be my dream bike for the foreseeable future (can't see myself being able to layout over GBP3000 every other day!!)

    To give you an idea of what I'm thinking, here are a few of the components I'm looking at:

    Medium Mojo SL - Matte Clear
    Cane Creek 110 IS Headset
    Fox RP23 (PUSH'd) --> also looking into the Double Barrel with Ti spring, will this fit?
    Fox 36 TALAS (PUSH'd)
    Stans ZTR flow Rims on CK rear hub and Hope Pro II 20mm front hub
    Formula 'The One' disc brakes F & R (180mm & 160mm rotors)
    Joplin Seatpost, plus full SRAM X0 setup, FSA carbon cranks, Rotor Q-rings and more :-)

    Is this overkill? Would I be better going with the 32 TALAS? Weight's not really an issue (I weigh in at over 200 pounds with gear, so if I'm going to lose weight it's going to be off me, not the bike! :-) If I can keep the bike around 28 pounds I'll be happy...

    What are everyone's thoughts?

    Cheers

  2. #2
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    If you're not a weight weenie like myself, then just get the Standard Mojo with the DHX & Talas. You might even get the paint done on the standard if you need it. There is a SL with the gloss out there custom ordered right now, so I see it being possible to get Ibis to get you a standard with the rubber paint.
    I'm setting mine up like that, cause my SL is ready to ride already. I'll have the same design for training that I have for racing, just a lot lighter for the races. No having to get used to a hardtail that weighs the same as my SL will benefit me for sure. I can get my Silk goin for long road rides too so I am looking forward to this season for sure!
    Good luck with your decision, you have made the right choice with Ibis

  3. #3
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    tensim,

    I'm looking at a very similar build myself (though it will be XT/XTR instead of XO, but thats just personal preference)

    First off, Push does not offer tuning on 36's. Also a 36 is 20mm taller than a 32 at the same travel. Just something to consider. So a Talas 36 set at mid travel - 130 - is still going be taller than a 32 at 140.

    I am leaning towards a Pushed Pike for mine. I also want a 20mm axle, and in talking to the guys at Push, they are really liking this fork.

    The other tidbid they let slip is that they are working on a dw-link specific tune for the RP23. I would definitely wait to get the rear Pushed until they finish that design.

    - Jeff

  4. #4
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    I think the biggest noticeable ride time difference with the SL vs. base Mojo (using the same shock) is the rubberized finish of the SL. If you are prone to scratching your bike the rubberized finish should protect about as well as anodizing does for an aluminum frame. I've seen a few of the rubberized finishes in person, and the clear matte rubberized really does look great, you can see the weave easily through it. The colors are a personal choice too.

    Regarding PUSH, they are planning to tune the Fox 36 version and Rockshox Lyrik, and are already testing the Talas 36 I've heard. A2C etc needs to be considered. The Mojo is very well balanced in handling as they come with a 130 - 140mm Fox 32 fork.

    You might consider staying with a Fox 32/140 fork and add a Gravity Dropper seat post with remote to lower your weight 1 inch or 3-4 inches on the fly for downhills and drop offs.

  5. #5
    Mojo0115
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    Someone else went through a similar process of trying to decide between the two choices in another thread.

    BobAustin had this to say.
    Hi..I have two SL's on order and have chosen the Fox shock instead of the DT Swiss. We got a credit for not taking the Swiss shock and you can probably get a credit if you take no shock or the Fox. We will have the Fox RP23's Pushed.

    So, once the Fox shock has been substituted, for a few hundred more than the Mojo Carbon, you get a ligher frame, a ti bolt kit, nicely colored linkages, and a much more durable paint...and likey a better resale value for the SL if that should happen...It seemed to me to be the way to go. Also, the Mojo was built around the Fox shock and according to an email I received from Hans, the PUshed Fox RP23 offers the best rear shock option of the bunch..Pushed Fox, DT or regular Fox.

    Bob Austin, Vancouver Island...bc.
    I run my Mojo with a Coil Lyrik and Maveric Speedball Remote seat dropper and absolutely love what they bring to the frame. I just wish that Winter was finished and 50-70degree temperatures were here again.
    Last edited by zzsean; 01-23-2008 at 03:14 PM.

  6. #6
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    If you are looking for a Med Mojo SL frameset, e-mail me for details. I can save you a few $ and get you set up right away.
    Please post a private message to this forum if interested.
    Last edited by buggymancan; 02-02-2008 at 09:02 AM.

  7. #7
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    Go with the Sl if you can afford it.
    Last edited by buggymancan; 01-26-2008 at 02:25 PM.

  8. #8
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    The biggest thing is getting a Moj SL will take some time. I imagine you can find some pretty good discounts on Moj Classic.
    A new paint and uhm carbon (Ultra High Modulus vs High Modulus) carbon weave. ( at about 37% of the front and back of the bike it makes sl about 5% stronger and stiffer for a rough estimate). While this does not matter much cause the moj classic is allready plenty strong, the paint is a different story. If I were to go with Moj classic it would not be painted. But, the new condom paint has never been used in the bike industry before and it seems to be tough as hell. At least from the results I've seen on some demo bikes that were hammered on pretty good. Some of the paint jobs look really rough on the standard moj after a couple of years. Most guys are covering their painted moj classics with all sorts of helicoper grade tape etc to address this.
    Honestly I would probably order and sl with rp23 (save 200 bucks) which is the shock the moj was originally designed for and save the extra money to have it tuned with a moj specific tune at push industries.
    I would imagine the dt swiss shock will have allot more issues (like I've read about many warranty send backs to europe on their forks) Note, not that fox haven't had some issues (here in US.)
    But, I allready have an rp23 I can use on the bike and I wanted to have the extra shock to play with.

  9. #9
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    Ultimate All Mountain Mojo SL

    tensim

    I built my dream bike similar to what you want to build. Look at my thread:

    All Mountain Mojo

    This bike is awesome, it rides like a dream!!!! I have been pounding it the last couple of weeks and she looks at me and says, "Is that all you got !!!! " I highly recommend the 36 Talas RC2. At 100mm it puts you in a very comfortable position for climbing the steepest of mountains. At 130mm it's perfect for the flats and the twisty single track trails, at 160mm it becomes a monster devouring anything in it's path. The DHX 5.0 makes baby heads feel like small ripples. Good luck on your build!!!!

  10. #10
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    [QUOTE=ghawk] ...I've read about many warranty send backs to europe on their forks... [QUOTE]

    they have?

    But they haven't delivered any actual DT Swiss forks worldwide yet... (AFAIK)

    We're being told that 1st production of aftermarket forks is March 08...

    Elvis.

  11. #11
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    But they haven't delivered any actual DT Swiss forks worldwide yet... (AFAIK)

    We're being told that 1st production of aftermarket forks is March 08...

    Elvis.
    Oops, sorry DT swiss bought Pace. So really they are the Pace forks I heard about. Kinda like Microsoft, "innovate or buy" err, I mean die.
    Btw, I told everyone he was not dead.
    Wow, I'm sorry.

  12. #12
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    Weightweenie Tensim, I doubt it

    I am disgusted ( ! ) by the weight of your Ibis, 28LBs ( around 12 to 13 kilos ! ) .
    Man that is is too heavy I believe for the SL ( especially as it means SUPERLITE ) sorry !!!
    Please forgive me for saying so, but If you really love your ride ( Ibis mOjo : ride ) then you should be looking at between 9 to 11 kilos MAX ( that's no more than 25LBS ! If I am not wrong... : )
    I am doing a research into the ways we think about ( those that are really ''into' customising their ride, I refer to price vs.weight.vs. high end componants.

    Eventually, my objective is to build my own Ibis , first on paper then if the price is right, then I will build one. My aim is to understand how we can justify the economical aspect against the desire as well as the overall cost in general. It's amazing the pasion for this bike. And this is just one of many forums around the web...Getting back to the weight of your ride, have you checked the Ibis websight, 'course you have, and wrenchscience. Real experts !
    I hope this thread goes on and on...and on..!

  13. #13
    Mojo0115
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    Quote Originally Posted by richmck
    I am disgusted ( ! ) by the weight of your Ibis, 28LBs ( around 12 to 13 kilos ! ) .
    Man that is is too heavy I believe for the SL ( especially as it means SUPERLITE ) sorry !!!
    Please forgive me for saying so, but If you really love your ride ( Ibis mOjo : ride ) then you should be looking at between 9 to 11 kilos MAX ( that's no more than 25LBS ! If I am not wrong... : )
    I am doing a research into the ways we think about ( those that are really ''into' customising their ride, I refer to price vs.weight.vs. high end componants.

    Eventually, my objective is to build my own Ibis , first on paper then if the price is right, then I will build one. My aim is to understand how we can justify the economical aspect against the desire as well as the overall cost in general. It's amazing the pasion for this bike. And this is just one of many forums around the web...Getting back to the weight of your ride, have you checked the Ibis websight, 'course you have, and wrenchscience. Real experts !
    I hope this thread goes on and on...and on..!
    Yep, I don't agree.

    Personally I would have no problem at all building up a 30lb Mojo SL. I love running beefy true all-mountain components and I absolutely believe that the SL frame is capable of that riding. That would every easily push the bike weight to close to 30lbs.

    For example if I was to change frames on my Ibis Mojo to and Mojo SL I wouldn't change a thing about the rest of the build and that would drop the weight to 29-30lbs with pedals.

    I absolutely love my ride and love that it can have the components on it and *only* be around 30lbs. Put the same components on another bike and get a similar ride quality and you are going to be hard pressed getting close to 30lbs.

  14. #14
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    [QUOTE=richmck]I am disgusted ( ! ) by the weight of your Ibis, 28LBs ( around 12 to 13 kilos ! ) .
    Man that is is too heavy I believe for the SL ( especially as it means SUPERLITE ) sorry !!!
    Please forgive me for saying so, but If you really love your ride ( Ibis mOjo : ride ) then you should be looking at between 9 to 11 kilos MAX ( that's no more than 25LBS ! If I am not wrong... : )
    QUOTE]

    Really disgusted? like, you've just been sick? that's a tad extreme

    I do think you're wrong, I've never claimed to be a weight weenie, I'm only looking at the SL as I think it's the most cutting edge frame on the market today... I've also been considering the SC Nomad and the Yeti 575 '08, but I can't get over my lust for the stealth look of the SL... absolutely the coolest bike I have ever seen and I want one bad

    If I can have it's looks and technology in a genuine all-mountain build, one that lets me climb hard and descend harder, well that's freeking fantastic!! What's 3-4 pounds when I weigh in at 90kg+ fully kitted out? easier for me to lose a few pounds myself, and better for me overall... It's testament to the designers that this bike can be built superlight or supertough, whichever tickles your fancy

    If the Mojo SL could only be built as a XC race bike, it wouldn't be an option for me, if that's what I wanted I'd be sticking with my ASR-sl (yep, sl means superlite in Yeti speak as well, I think ) And if Ibis would let me have the original Mojo in the matte clear paint, I'd go for that and save the money, but they won't (damn them ) so the SL it is... My build is going to be an effing awesome all-mountain ride and I can't wait to test it out!

    cheers

  15. #15
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    Wink you certainly are NOT a weightweenie !

    I have decided to agree with you, my words were a tad too extreme !
    I will stick with my stlye whilst you go with your 30lb ride. But don't go changing the Ibis for the Yeti, get'em both ! Then you'll have the best of both worlds !
    Enjoy saying ho ho HO, its's a MOJO !

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