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  1. #1
    zul
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    New Ibis Rider - Needing Suggestions

    Just one week into my Ibis HD. Plenty of things to love thus far.

    Here are some challenges:

    1. Rear shock bottoming out. When it bottoms, the rear tire rubs hard into rear der cable housing and seat tube. I'm already needing to replace the rear cable/housing. Do I need to spend $600 to upgrade the RP23? Will the shim kit prevent this?? I haven't even hucked the bike yet. Do riders huck this bike?? Or is that a no-no?

    2. Pedal cracking into the ground/rocks. I'm used to avoiding pedal slap but DANG!! High frequency of strikes, even when thinking about backpedaling or ratchet stepping. I'd rather be riding forward instead of back-pedaling (a lot).

    Like I said, so many sweet upsides but these problems seem somewhat unavoidable. I'm happy to change riding style or setup ... Suggestions?

    I weigh 165 lbs and ride rocky AM trails. Would increasing the air pressure in the shock minimize some of these problems?

    thx. zul
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  2. #2
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    The problem number one appears I'm my bike too, but only touch in the cable housing not in the frame. This only make a rubber mark in the housing but no more problem about this.

    I am thinking about to put some spacers into the rp23 air chamber. This will be more progressive.....i hope!!!

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  3. #3
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    Is your sag set properly for you with riding gear on? You could add pressure to get pedal clearance for rocky riding. I have no problem with pedal strikes with the sag set right. Huck that bike it'll handle.

  4. #4
    zul
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    More air was needed and the rebound was set way slow. Got that adjusted. I'm not sure what % sag but I will check with the mechanic who set it up for me. The shock doesn't have an O ring ... Lot's of adjusting and setup on these air can thingies.

    I have one riding partner suggesting that I stay with the RP23 while others are changing up to coil shock. For those who have switched to coil, thoughts?? Does the Ibis HD play nice with coil shocks?

    thx again! zul
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  5. #5
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    You can use a bread twist tie or something to check sag. 18.6 mm is the sag number for rp23.
    I think the Rock shox rc3 plus works great and it's an air shock so it's light. CCDB air is a good choice also. Try a search there's so much info already here.

  6. #6
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    Shorter cranks? I like the low BB. I run 170 crank arms.

  7. #7
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    #1 yes the shim kit will end that problem. I put it in and that stopped completely. It makes the shock ride so much more progressively.

    #2 riding style will help with pedal strikes. I have never had a problem with pedals hitting anything on my 140 HD and now that it's in 160, it would be even less.

    I typically think pedal strikes are from improper pedal placement. No don't get 170mm cranks. Sag should be at 30 percent, I run mine at 20 but you might want to check the sag. The RP-23 has a bad rep, but it can be made better with very cheap solutions.

  8. #8
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    This bike is not easy to set up. I have been messing with my set up for about four rides. I have just now gotten the bike to handle the way I want it to.

    The thing to remember with the mojo is that it is a bike that wants more sag and not less.


    As for the shim kit spacer install. I have read lots of good things about that.

  9. #9
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    I sag mine at 3/4".

  10. #10
    zul
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    My last bike was a Titus Supermoto with a big sloppy coil shock and Horst link. The bike served me well for many years; but this Air Can shock is all new to me.

    After 5-6 good rides and adjustments on the RP23, the bike is really setting up and settling in. Here has been the progression:

    I weigh 165lbs plus bike gear. Area trails are rock filled.
    The RP23 shock was initially setup @ 155lbs and 30% sag.
    Bottoming out on small drops (3 footers). Rear tire hitting and ruining cable and housing.
    Blowing through travel on G-Outs (Woah ... Waay Back!!)

    So ...

    I've inched my way up to 170lbs of air. The sag is less by about 2-3mm, so let's say 28% sag?

    During my testing rides, I've identified 2 different types of 'bottom out':

    1. Shock Bottom Out = The ORing on the RP23 getting sent to the VERY end of the shaft. No biggie. Using the ORing allowed for me to test out small trail features and see what this shock was doing.

    2. Bike Bottom Out = Tire rubbing hard into rear cable on the seat tube. Ouch, bad, ruining good parts fast.

    By adding 15lbs of air to the RP23, the difference has been great (so far). Pedal strikes have lessened. The added air in the shock helps the bike stay within it's travel, the Shock bottoms out much less. The rear cable is being replaced soon so we'll see if the Bike bottom out problem goes away (fingers crossed).

    Bottom line, the 'New Bike Euphoria' is setting in. Enjoying some SWEET rides and getting into the 'feel' of the new geometry:

    Woooo HOOOO!!!!

    (Seat post dropper should be installed later today, YES.)
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  11. #11
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    You should really try a volume spacer in the rp23, it helps alot with your problems. It will allow lower air pressure giving increased small bump compliance, but also make the shock more progressive which helps the shock not bottom out as easy. It really is a great upgrade thats cheap around $25 for the volume kit which includes 3 diffrent size spacers and takes 5 minutes to change. I weight 190 ready to ride, and used a medium spacer for normal rides and the large spacer for more dh style riding. The HD really likes 30% plus sag and you just can't get that with out bottoming out every where unless you add a volume spacer to the rp23.

  12. #12
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    +1 on spacer. if you do research you will learn that everybody running rp23 having same issue. i am 185lbs no gear, started with medium spacer. after i switched to 650b wheels i also changed to biggest spacer and like this setup so far. i am still going to replace rp23 maybe next spring.
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  13. #13
    zul
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    Thx for the tips on the RP23 spacer / shim kit. Will check w/ the LBS mechanic and see what he thinks. Great Suggestion!!

    zul
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  14. #14
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    You really don't need a mechanic to change or try the different volume spacers on the rp23. When I was experimenting with which spacer to use I just swapped them out on the trail, no tools needed. That way you can try the sizes back to back out on the trail. You can order the spacers direct from Fox by phone, or JensonUSA has them in stock right now to. Here's an article from Pinkbike that explains what it does and how to install. Click the link,
    Tech Tuesday - How to Install a Fox Float Air-Volume Spacer - Pinkbike

  15. #15
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    If you ride a lot of rocks like in Socal or AZ then the RP23 will become overwhelmed very quickly. My results as well as several riding buddies is that the RP23 is great for single large hits or smoother trails, but it starts to break down with quick repetitive hits. I did not have any problems with bottoming.

    I have one friend that went with a coil and is now back to air with a Pushed Monarch RC3 Plus which is what I run.

  16. #16
    zul
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    New shock is on the wish list, maybe Spring 2013.
    For now I am still digesting (a really good) purchase price.
    Plus, I've got a Hadley hub sitting in the garage just waiting for a Stans Flow rim and build ...

    Thanks for the link. We'll see how the shim kit goes ...
    If lovin you is wrong, I don't wanna be right

  17. #17
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    I agree with Salespunk. The rp23 feels harsh on fast rocky rutted trails. The volume spacers improve it, but the problem is still there. My rp23 is sitting in a drawer as a back up shock. I'm running the monarch plus rc3 push tuned and its impressive! Much better than the rp23. It's a good option if your looking to upgrade shocks.

  18. #18
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    Converting to 650b cured the problem of the trendy smooth trail SoCal low bb of my Mojo C and HD for me. 650b (27.5) wheels raised the BB about 3/8" from my previous 26 inch wheels high volume tire workaround, to better enjoy riding my favorite rocky rough eroded NorCal trails without irritating momentum killing pedal strikes and frequent timing hesitations.

  19. #19
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    #2
    +1 of the rp23 volume spacer (I'm 200lbs and use the medium, sold the large to another user here - should have kept it). I take my HD to bike parks and that helps a lot with too easy bottoming out - I like 35% sag (DW links are designed for 35 to even 40% so you don't want a ton of pressure which makes it ride high and harsh). Makes it more progressive, less pedal strike, no loss in travel. Cheap!

    for #1 you can take the pressure off and compress the shock all the way (o-ring almost falls of the rp23) to test things out. I have the original HD (less clearance) so early on I took the back screw FR cable holder out (that holds the cable in place away from the back post (close to tire) and run it along the side post with a tie to hold it in place. Now if the tire hits it will be the seat post, which it can't with my 2.3 high volume tire. Get that cable out of the way!
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  20. #20
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    Hi guys!

    Do u known if its possible to achieve this spacer kit in spain???? Where do you buy it????

    Thanks!!!

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  21. #21
    zul
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    JensonUSA is a web site here in the US, not sure if they ship to Spain??

    Fox Float Volume Spacer Kit > Components > Rear Shocks > Reducers | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop
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  22. #22
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    coil shocks absorb bumps better than air imo.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by zul View Post
    JensonUSA is a web site here in the US, not sure if they ship to Spain??

    Fox Float Volume Spacer Kit > Components > Rear Shocks > Reducers | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop
    Thanks, zul!!!

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