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  1. #1
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    Mojo stolen! Replacement?

    A few years back I was an avid user on here, learning as much about bikes and spec as I could before building my dream bike in 2009 - An orange Mojo with ti bolt kit, blue linkages and a Lopes link followed soon after. For the last 5 years the bike was perfect hence why I haven't needed to be on here since!

    However Yesterday my pride and joy was stolen from my garage and I am absolutely gutted. Luckily the bike was insured and so I am in the position of having to pick a replacement. Obviously times have changed and technology has moved on quite a bit - 650b and 29" are the norm now - I haven't ridden either!

    So what do I do? A new Mojo in a different wheel size or is there another better alternative? I ride trail centres in the UK, I'm quite fast uphill and maybe not as ballsy as I used to be on the downs.

    I know there will be a biased consensus on this forum however in my short search I have come across the Santa Cruz Bronson, Transition Covert Carbon, Lapierre Zesty and this - Capra CF Comp 1-20141900 - which gets rave reviews.
    Any guidance would be very much appreciated!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Mojo stolen! Replacement?-10672138_570899164736_5046207529748487984_n.jpg  

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  2. #2
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    Mojo stolen! Replacement?

    Bummer about the theft.....but, Yay! New bike!
    I always lusted after the orange frames.....wasn't available on my last SL.

    I recently replaced my MojoSL (exact same geo as your frame) with a Mojo HDR. It's fantastic IMO, in part, because of its family DNA....it still feels like a Mojo....familiar and very easy to get comfortable on, but better in every way...so you might love it...stiffer, stronger, more "planted" feeling, and a more slack geo which is welcome in burly terrain, but it still fits, handles, pops, and corners like a mojo.
    I loved my Mojo C and SL, just like you, but the slacker and stiffer frame builds confidence and speed downhill, corners with more authority in chunk, and the 27.5 wheels (which I also ran on the earlier bikes) are a noticeable improvement everywhere.

    I'm sure others will argue against the HDR, which i can underetand, because there are frames w more travel, rear tire clearance, trendier geo.... even Ibis has a new one on the horizon, but that will be months away still.
    If you loved your Mojo, its highly evolved offspring on steroids is available now, and it's really great.
    Pivot Mach 6 is another badass do it all, all day, anywhere kinda bike.
    There are so many nice ones now, I'm sure everyone will recommend their pick.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by doismellbacon View Post
    Bummer about the theft.....but, Yay! New bike!
    I always lusted after the orange frames.....wasn't available on my last SL.

    I recently replaced my MojoSL (exact same geo as your frame) with a Mojo HDR. It's fantastic IMO, in part, because of its family DNA....it still feels like a Mojo....familiar and very easy to get comfortable on, but better in every way...so you might love it...stiffer, stronger, more "planted" feeling, and a more slack geo which is welcome in burly terrain, but it still fits, handles, pops, and corners like a mojo.
    I loved my Mojo C and SL, just like you, but the slacker and stiffer frame builds confidence and speed downhill, corners with more authority in chunk, and the 27.5 wheels (which I also ran on the earlier bikes) are a noticeable improvement everywhere.

    I'm sure others will argue against the HDR, which i can underetand, because there are frames w more travel, rear tire clearance, trendier geo.... even Ibis has a new one on the horizon, but that will be months away still.
    If you loved your Mojo, its highly evolved offspring on steroids is available now, and it's really great.
    Pivot Mach 6 is another badass do it all, all day, anywhere kinda bike.
    There are so many nice ones now, I'm sure everyone will recommend their pick.
    Many thanks for your response! Can I ask what height you are and on what size of frame on the HDR? I'm 5 10 and rode a L Mojo and wonder if a medium may be a better choice with the HDR?
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  4. #4
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    I'm 5'11" and ride a L in either. I would not consider going down in size on the HDR...it's TT is a couple mm longer than the standard Mojo, but the seat tube is slacker, so in terms of REACH I believe it's actually a tiny bit shorter than the Mojo C. My last setup on the SL was with 80mm stem and 685mm bars. The HDR has 70mm stem and 750mm bars... the stem length is great, but 750mm is too much for some of my most fun trails...kills speed and flow in some tight and treacherous spots. I'll be settling on 720-730mm wide bars and letting everybody else debate 750-800mm merits.

    I've ridden some nice 29ers too, Ripley included, and Pivot Mach 429 and 429c top my list. You'll have to ride some to decide if you like the feel of them....nothing rolls over chatter better, but they feel, well, different. If you'd rather maintain longer travel and the lively playful character of your last bike, then one of the new breed of mid-travel 650b bikes is the ticket, IMO. The ones I've watched with interest are:
    Mach 6
    Devinci Troy
    SC Bronson and 5010
    Norco Sight
    Knolly Warden

    and on the burlier longer travel side there's:
    Norco Range
    SC Nomad
    Mach 6 frankly can go in this category too, as could the Warden
    The new Canfield Balance looks badass also

    There are others I'm forgetting, and you may have ready access to some bikes in the UK that are not as common here....like that Capra...looks slick, but don't think it's an option in the US.

    Other things besides 650b that have happened since you got your Mojo that you might want to embrace:
    Dropper seatposts
    Shorter stem w/ lower, wider bars (plays nice w/ the above)
    Wide Carbon rims w/ tubeless ready tires (Game Changer!)
    single ring drivetrains (SRAM 1x11 is pricey, but probably worth it... aftermarket wide-range hacks for Shimano 10sp work pretty well too for 1/10 the price)
    Rock Shox suspension is back on top... 35mm Pikes and Monarch Plus shock blow the doors off the stock OEM Fox many bikes still come with

  5. #5
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    Thanks for taking the time to write these replies!

    There have been so many changes! I noticed the single front chainrings - what is the reasoning behind this? I often use all 3 rings!

    I'll definitely do some shopping around. I have a look at the Pivot - it looks lovely, as does the 5.7. That may be enough bike for me. I'll need to see where I can demo some examples.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by james beaumont View Post
    There have been so many changes! I noticed the single front chainrings - what is the reasoning behind this? I often use all 3 rings!
    With the wider range cassettes available now (10-42 w/ SRAM 11sp, and 11-42 with a hacked Shimano 10sp) many folks can get all the range they need with a single ring, and virtually everybody can with a 2x system... the benefits, when combined with the new clutch type rear derailleurs, are a simpler, quieter, and more reliable drivetrain.... especially with a 1x system, you shed a lot of weight and handlebar clutter, and with a narrow/wide chainring and clutch der. you get super reliable chain retention without adding a guide, and a super quiet drivetrain. I transitioned from 3x to 2x to 1x over the course of a couple years...with each step I had to "man up" a bit on the climbs, and the result is I'm a stronger rider. However, my trails are steep and technical in places, so a 1x based on a stock shimano 11-36 was not adequate... I briefly went back to a 2x w/ 26/36 rings, which is an awesome setup really, but with the wider range cassettes I finally found bliss with a 32t ring & 650b rear wheel.

    Jump on a dialed 1x system...you'll be shocked at how much noise and trouble you'd managed to convince yourself was an integral part of mountain biking.

  7. #7
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    I'm sorry for your loss. That would probably gut me.

    The quick and easy replacement path would be to get an SL-R if you want to stay with 26" or go with the HDR/650b if you want to move to where the market is going for the future. The HDR/650b has the same travel as the SL and SL-R but is burlier, a better descender, and doesn't give up much of anything on climbing. The slightly better rollover of the 27" wheels over the 26" wheels is good news too as we get older.

    The upshot is that you can be comfortable on either one immediately, you can probably have it in your hands quickly, and you don't have to think much about all the other things above except as they apply to what you want to spend on the new build at ibiscycles.com's build page.

    However, if you want to shop around and ride a bunch of new different bikes, there is nothing better than that either. Getting demos on different bikes and riding them on your home trails for a day or two really will show off which ones work for you and which ones don't.

    Good luck!

  8. #8
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    Too bad for the theft but great it was insured! I ride a Mojo and if I were you I would get a Mojo SL-R.

    Not much has changed. Bikes are the same: no revolutionary suspension that let you go uphill without pedaling. The 27.5 vs 26 wheel (actually 27.47 inches vs 26.5) seems something better left to the forum diatribes. Drop-post have been around for years and you can install on any bike, same for 1x drive train (I use 30 x 1142 on my Mojo), brakes are more or less the same, suspension ditto, ultra-wide rims are debatable, especially considering the arrival of new Schwalbe procore system Grams Light Bikes - Mountain Bike and Gear Reviews, and News: Schwalbe Procore Dual Chamber Tire System

    So get a Mojo SL-R, it is more solid than the Original Mojo thanks to the tapered head tube and maxle rear, and you will have a state of the art bike.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by james beaumont View Post
    So what do I do? A
    My condolences and congrats! I rode a Mojo and then an Mojo SL-R for a total of 7 years combined and have now moved on the the Ripley with 1x11 drivetrain. I absolutely love it and would not go back to 26 (nor multiple chainrings). Maybe 27.5, but not 26. If you stay with 26" you can get great deals, but don't expect it it maintain much resale value. You can read the opinions, pros and cons of big wheels vs. smaller wheels all day and night, and there is no "right" size for everyone, but bottom line for me is that the pros have far outweighed the cons. Good luck!

  10. #10
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    Get a ripley. I was on a mojo for 5-6 years and loved it. I loved how nimble and comfortable it was. I was a 29er holdout and eventually got one after Ibis brought there's to market.
    I've been blown away by how fun the bike is, and how nimble it is for a big wheeled bike. My climbing speed has improved quite a bit as well.
    There are a ton of good bikes out there. Demo as many as you can. You can't go wrong these days.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by d-bug View Post
    Get a ripley. I was on a mojo for 5-6 years and loved it. I loved how nimble and comfortable it was. I was a 29er holdout and eventually got one after Ibis brought there's to market.
    I've been blown away by how fun the bike is, and how nimble it is for a big wheeled bike. My climbing speed has improved quite a bit as well.
    There are a ton of good bikes out there. Demo as many as you can. You can't go wrong these days.
    Thanks for all the advice everyone. At the moment it looks to he between the Ripley, Mojo 650b and a Pivot Mach (can't decide between the 5.7 and 6).

    There has however been a development. I tweeted about my bikes yesterday and in the evening had a tip off. It was stolen by a gang of 15 year olds who have been going around stealing high value bikes, motorbikes (they also got my dad's Ducatti) and cars. They posted pics of the bikes straight after stealing them. My Mojo is is even one of the little rats profile pics on Instagram. They have been reported. I'm not worried that if the bike is recovered it will be damaged, I'm not sure I want it back now at all to be honest. Heartbreaking to see this pic-

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  12. #12
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    Mojo stolen! Replacement?

    High school kids can be such idiots. To post pics of of stolen items is just so stupid. I own an ice cream store that was vandalized repeatedly this summer and the kids got caught because they were bragging at parties. Turns out they were being paid by their employer to do the deeds, the owner of a rival ice cream and mini golf place. He's an even bigger idiot for using high school kids to commit crimes for him. He's about to be indicted.


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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davide View Post
    Drop-post have been around for years and you can install on any bike, same for 1x drive train (I use 30 x 1142 on my Mojo), brakes are more or less the same, suspension ditto, ultra-wide rims are debatable, especially considering the arrival of new Schwalbe procore system Grams Light Bikes - Mountain Bike and Gear Reviews, and News: Schwalbe Procore Dual Chamber Tire System
    I don't see why Procore potentially negates the benefits of a wider rim other than running lower tire pressure? You need a fairly wide rim just to use the system. And, it's a whopping 200 g per wheel.

    If you had a $2000 carbon wheelset that weighs 1500 g total would you add 400 g of weight to utilize Procore at 14 psi. I doubt it but it's cool to see the innovation.

    edit to add: OP, sorry about the theft and I hope you get your bike back. I had three stolen out of my garage. All showed up on craigslist, wife's bike within 24 hours. Truly a violated feeling.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by james beaumont View Post
    Thanks for all the advice everyone. At the moment it looks to he between the Ripley, Mojo 650b and a Pivot Mach (can't decide between the 5.7 and 6).

    There has however been a development. I tweeted about my bikes yesterday and in the evening had a tip off. It was stolen by a gang of 15 year olds who have been going around stealing high value bikes, motorbikes (they also got my dad's Ducatti) and cars. They posted pics of the bikes straight after stealing them. My Mojo is is even one of the little rats profile pics on Instagram. They have been reported. I'm not worried that if the bike is recovered it will be damaged, I'm not sure I want it back now at all to be honest. Heartbreaking to see this pic-

    Click image for larger version. 

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    PLEEEEASE tell me that the cops are involved! If the perps are posting on instagram, that should be a super easy thing to track them down. Have them arrested!

  15. #15
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    My recommendations would be to look at the following bikes;

    HDR
    Yeti SB5c
    Pivot Mach 6
    Ripley

    I would not consider anything in 26 if purchasing new. Nothing against 26, but support is simply not going to be there in the next 12 months for new innovative products. They will not stop producing what is already being made, but all of the cool new tires, forks, wheels etc won't make it out.

    As for the bikes, the Mach 6 is an outlier in terms of rear travel, but it rides excellent. HDR is great, but I would not be looking to buy one new at this point. We know it is going to be replaced in very short order with the new #enduro bike. Ripley is great if you like 29, but coming from 26 it might not be your cup of tea. I tried to ride 29 and it didn't work for me. Wasn't any slower, but just not enjoyable and wasn't any faster either. SB5c is the latest geometry and design and I have become a big believer in the updated geometry like my Nomad. If I was asked to recommend one bike it would be the SB5c. Closest to your Mojo, but with the latest innovations in geometry.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Salespunk View Post
    My recommendations would be to look at the following bikes;

    HDR
    Yeti SB5c
    Pivot Mach 6
    Ripley

    I would not consider anything in 26 if purchasing new. Nothing against 26, but support is simply not going to be there in the next 12 months for new innovative products. They will not stop producing what is already being made, but all of the cool new tires, forks, wheels etc won't make it out.

    As for the bikes, the Mach 6 is an outlier in terms of rear travel, but it rides excellent. HDR is great, but I would not be looking to buy one new at this point. We know it is going to be replaced in very short order with the new #enduro bike. Ripley is great if you like 29, but coming from 26 it might not be your cup of tea. I tried to ride 29 and it didn't work for me. Wasn't any slower, but just not enjoyable and wasn't any faster either. SB5c is the latest geometry and design and I have become a big believer in the updated geometry like my Nomad. If I was asked to recommend one bike it would be the SB5c. Closest to your Mojo, but with the latest innovations in geometry.
    How does the SB6c compare to the Mach6?
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  17. #17
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    Nobody knows yet since they have not started shipping. The geometry looks really good though. Only problem I see with them is the longer chain stays due to the Switch box by the BB.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockman View Post
    I don't see why Procore potentially negates the benefits of a wider rim other than running lower tire pressure? You need a fairly wide rim just to use the system. And, it's a whopping 200 g per wheel.

    If you had a $2000 carbon wheelset that weighs 1500 g total would you add 400 g of weight to utilize Procore at 14 psi. I doubt it but it's cool to see the innovation.
    The main reason to run a wide rim is to be able to use lower pressure (some make the argument that the shape of the tire is better, although it sounds like another potential candidate for forum diatribe). But wide rims are heavy, with carbon happily getting into the 450-500 grams/rim. Now the Procore only requires 23mm inner, so in principle you could get a much lighter rim, add a lighter tire and end up even or lighter ...

    Cost involved would be of course way less than a new set of wheels. Add that weight of the procore will probably come down when others develop one or a cross-country version comes about, and the need to use a track-size wheel might kind of disappear ... we'll see how it goes. The reviews from people who tried them are kind of euphoric First Ride: Schwalbe Procore dual chamber system - MBR
    Last edited by Davide; 09-02-2014 at 07:06 PM.

  19. #19
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    The benefits of wide carbon rims (or lack of) are being debated only by people who haven't tried them.... or I guess, people who think less traction, less control, and tires folding over sideways are good things....those folks might have a legitimate beef with wide carbon rims.

    I'm 1027.47% certain of this.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by doismellbacon View Post
    The benefits of wide carbon rims (or lack of) are being debated only by people who haven't tried them.... or I guess, people who think less traction, less control, and tires folding over sideways are good things....those folks might have a legitimate beef with wide carbon rims.

    I'm 1027.47% certain of this.
    I approve this post. Wide carbon rims are game changers.

  21. #21
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    ....and my latest "27.5" tire measures 28.25" in diameter....

    So run'n tell that, homeboy.

  22. #22
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    First off, you have my condolences. I had my Mojo SL stolen two years ago. Absolutely gut-wrenching. The pain is about one step below someone stealing your dog (and you don't mess with a man's dog).

    The legal things out of the way first: If the police aren't on it already, they should be. Stress to them that the value of the bike makes the charge a felony grand larceny if caught and convicted. Second, if you complete an insurance claim before the stolen bike is recovered, the bike is the property of your insurance company. Depending on the circumstances and how much time has passed, they may give you the option of buying it back (at a valuation of their choosing) or participate in its auction. That said, if you've gotten a check it's yours to keep even if the bike's recovered (if your claim wasn't fraudulent of course), so feel free to build your dream bike.

    When I built my insurance-funded bike, I went with a HD140 (before the HDR was announced) with 650b carbon wheels, 160mm fork, and a 2.25" shock (with 140 limbo chips) to get ~150mm travel with geometry numbers pretty close to the 26" HD160. If I was to do it again, my perfect bike would look something like the Mach 6's geometry numbers, 150mm-160mm of travel with an Ibis suspension feel and without Pivot's awful graphic design. The new Ibis "enduro" bike would probably tick all those boxes for me. If you don't need a new bike *this week*, might be worth it to at least wait for the announcement and then decide if the bike interests you.

    Personally, I'd borrow a friend's bike for some maintenance rides to keep myself sane and take the time to research and demo everything I could. In the price range we're talking about there are very, very few bad bikes and so much variety you can find exactly what you want. As long as you think you know what you want, of course.

    I think I'm an Ibis guy, so I'd probably go for the new mystery bike, then an HDR650b, then a Ripley, in that order. That said, my shortlist of 140mm-160mm trail bikes to demo (outside Ibis offerings) would probably look something like this (in no particular order):
    Pivot Mach 6
    SC Bronson
    Intense Tracer
    Knolly Warden
    Banshee Rune
    Yeti SB6c
    Spesh Enduro 29 (mostly because of the hype )

    I'm not a fan of how most single-pivots feel, or FSR really. I love the small-bump compliance and light LSC tune of the dw-link, so on paper that'd be my first choice, with the demo ride being the real judge.

    For shocks, I've always felt underwhelmed by the Fox Float with repetitive hits. I would strongly suggest looking at a good reservoir air shock, like the XFusion Vector, CCDBAir, RS Monarch Plus, or perhaps the new Float X, especially the rockier and chunkier your trails are.

    For a fork, the RS Pike is in vogue right now. The new Fox 36 is supposedly pretty decent, and XFusion has some fantastic stuff at a competitive price - the Sweep (34mm) is like a Pike with more mid-stroke support and the Metric (36mm) has the smoothest, most buttery coil-like air spring I've ever felt. Because 34mm/35mm/36mm-stanchioned forks have become lighter in recent years, there is no reason to run a 32mm fork when you're in the 140+mm travel range. Travel-adjust forks are still around, and some like them, but dropper posts help climbing enough that they aren't as necessary.

    I highly recommend a dropper post. They've gotten pretty reliable, and they let you get low when descending and give you power while climbing. You'll find yourself using it more often than you shift - down a little to set up a corner, up a little after you sprint out of it, down to pump a g-out, then back up to climb out, etc. Get one that's infinitely- adjustable.

    Wide carbon rims and tubeless tires are a great combination. Together they offer better traction, more cornering force, and more rim protection. I would skimp on other components to get a great wheelset, and I wouldn't buy anything narrower than 23mm (internal). A high engagement hub is also great on technical terrain.

    1x drivetrains with a wide cassette are pretty nice. I prefer the Shimano lever feel, so I'm using a 1x10 30t 11-36, and I'm considering adding a 40t to that (probably when I'm on my weak Spring legs in six months). Mostly it lets you just pedal instead of focusing on how to shift your front under load when you really need to drop a gear on a climb.

  23. #23
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    never mind ... no diatribe
    Last edited by Davide; 09-03-2014 at 12:32 AM.

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    Turner is announcing a new bike at Outerbike, too.

    Davide: better check your facts, buddy! Bicycle wheel - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by lazarus2405 View Post
    First off, you have my condolences. I had my Mojo SL stolen two years ago. Absolutely gut-wrenching. The pain is about one step below someone stealing your dog (and you don't mess with a man's dog).

    The legal things out of the way first: If the police aren't on it already, they should be. Stress to them that the value of the bike makes the charge a felony grand larceny if caught and convicted. Second, if you complete an insurance claim before the stolen bike is recovered, the bike is the property of your insurance company. Depending on the circumstances and how much time has passed, they may give you the option of buying it back (at a valuation of their choosing) or participate in its auction. That said, if you've gotten a check it's yours to keep even if the bike's recovered (if your claim wasn't fraudulent of course), so feel free to build your dream bike.

    When I built my insurance-funded bike, I went with a HD140 (before the HDR was announced) with 650b carbon wheels, 160mm fork, and a 2.25" shock (with 140 limbo chips) to get ~150mm travel with geometry numbers pretty close to the 26" HD160. If I was to do it again, my perfect bike would look something like the Mach 6's geometry numbers, 150mm-160mm of travel with an Ibis suspension feel and without Pivot's awful graphic design. The new Ibis "enduro" bike would probably tick all those boxes for me. If you don't need a new bike *this week*, might be worth it to at least wait for the announcement and then decide if the bike interests you.

    Personally, I'd borrow a friend's bike for some maintenance rides to keep myself sane and take the time to research and demo everything I could. In the price range we're talking about there are very, very few bad bikes and so much variety you can find exactly what you want. As long as you think you know what you want, of course.

    I think I'm an Ibis guy, so I'd probably go for the new mystery bike, then an HDR650b, then a Ripley, in that order. That said, my shortlist of 140mm-160mm trail bikes to demo (outside Ibis offerings) would probably look something like this (in no particular order):
    Pivot Mach 6
    SC Bronson
    Intense Tracer
    Knolly Warden
    Banshee Rune
    Yeti SB6c
    Spesh Enduro 29 (mostly because of the hype )

    I'm not a fan of how most single-pivots feel, or FSR really. I love the small-bump compliance and light LSC tune of the dw-link, so on paper that'd be my first choice, with the demo ride being the real judge.

    For shocks, I've always felt underwhelmed by the Fox Float with repetitive hits. I would strongly suggest looking at a good reservoir air shock, like the XFusion Vector, CCDBAir, RS Monarch Plus, or perhaps the new Float X, especially the rockier and chunkier your trails are.

    For a fork, the RS Pike is in vogue right now. The new Fox 36 is supposedly pretty decent, and XFusion has some fantastic stuff at a competitive price - the Sweep (34mm) is like a Pike with more mid-stroke support and the Metric (36mm) has the smoothest, most buttery coil-like air spring I've ever felt. Because 34mm/35mm/36mm-stanchioned forks have become lighter in recent years, there is no reason to run a 32mm fork when you're in the 140+mm travel range. Travel-adjust forks are still around, and some like them, but dropper posts help climbing enough that they aren't as necessary.

    I highly recommend a dropper post. They've gotten pretty reliable, and they let you get low when descending and give you power while climbing. You'll find yourself using it more often than you shift - down a little to set up a corner, up a little after you sprint out of it, down to pump a g-out, then back up to climb out, etc. Get one that's infinitely- adjustable.

    Wide carbon rims and tubeless tires are a great combination. Together they offer better traction, more cornering force, and more rim protection. I would skimp on other components to get a great wheelset, and I wouldn't buy anything narrower than 23mm (internal). A high engagement hub is also great on technical terrain.

    1x drivetrains with a wide cassette are pretty nice. I prefer the Shimano lever feel, so I'm using a 1x10 30t 11-36, and I'm considering adding a 40t to that (probably when I'm on my weak Spring legs in six months). Mostly it lets you just pedal instead of focusing on how to shift your front under load when you really need to drop a gear on a climb.
    So the update on this is the bike was reported stolen straight away. I know who stole the bike. There's a gang of 14/15 year olds doing it most nights and the police know about it and aren't doing anything.
    I was contacted this morning on Facebook by a guy who was offered my Mojo last night for £400!

    So in the meantime I am still researching bikes. Definitely think I'll wait for the new Ibis to be released. Maybe get something second hand for the time being, been offered an alu Pivot 5.7 very cheap.
    I have to say the spec of Canyons line up is very tempting...
    Canyon Spectral 8 EX
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  26. #26
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    Mojo stolen! Replacement?-image.jpg

    Thoughts on this as a temporary replacement? How will it feel compared to the Mojo?
    Canyon Spectral 8 EX
    Dialled Bikes Prince Albert
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  27. #27
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    Mach 4? 5?
    Pivots tend to have a stiffer frame, firmer suspension, and taller bottom brackets than Mojo/SL.

    Mach 5 was my #2 choice back in '09 when I bought my Mojo SL. All the DW goodness, just not quite as plush.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnzj View Post
    Mach 4? 5?
    Pivots tend to have a stiffer frame, firmer suspension, and taller bottom brackets than Mojo/SL.

    Mach 5 was my #2 choice back in '09 when I bought my Mojo SL. All the DW goodness, just not quite as plush.
    It's a 5.7. Bit of a hotch potch of parts though -

    Medium frame, 142X12mm rear axle (frame can hold stealth dropper post)
    Fox Float RP23 Boost Valve Kashima coated 145mm of travel
    Shimano SLX brakes (seriously powerful somehow!)
    Shimano ZEE 203mm rotor (front)
    Shimano ZEE 180mm rotor (rear)
    WTB Rocket V Saddle
    Raceface Chester seatpost
    Shimano XT shifters
    Mavic EN321 rims on hope PRO 2 EVO'S)
    RockShox Sektor dual position coil 150mm 15mm axle (medium coil and seal kit provided)
    Maxis advantage 2.40 (front)
    Maxis high roller 2.35(rear)
    Renthal Fatbar 780mm, 20mm rise
    Lizard skins grips
    Hope 40mm stem
    Shimano XT shadow+ mech (medium cage)
    Shimano XT 10sp cranks converted to 2X10
    Shimano XT front mech e-type
    Shimano XT M771 cassette
    Hope BB with stainless steel bearings (recently replaced with new ones)

    The wheels, especially with those tyres will be pretty heavy..

    I've also got the option of a Transition Bandit (both 26 and 29) or an Tomac Snyper!
    Canyon Spectral 8 EX
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