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Thread: Mojo SL woes

  1. #1
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    Mojo SL woes

    Hi guys, I just got a mojo SL and pretty much happy with the bike.
    Something which I had tried but just couldn't get it done right.

    Anyway to alter the bikes geometry because I seem to be sitted "on" the bike but not "in" the bike feel... Which at times due to my lack of skills I feel instability when the bike points down

    Currently using 70mm stem, size S SL, 150mm talas fork upfront..

  2. #2
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    wider bars helped my mojo feel more stable when pointed down. Do you know what size bars you're currently on? Not many people make the jump from 660s to 750s, but something in between might be the ticket!

    Also, a dropper post can do wonders. Seat xc high makes the bike a little bit of a chore to handle the real rough stuff.

    And of course, ditching the talas will make the front feel buttah/better

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    run the shock a bit softer and slower.

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    Quote Originally Posted by redmr2_man View Post
    wider bars helped my mojo feel more stable when pointed down. Do you know what size bars you're currently on? Not many people make the jump from 660s to 750s, but something in between might be the ticket!

    Also, a dropper post can do wonders. Seat xc high makes the bike a little bit of a chore to handle the real rough stuff.

    And of course, ditching the talas will make the front feel buttah/better
    Redmr2_man , I am using crankbro opium bar at 720mm, kronolog dropper post and Thomson x4 70mm 0• stem with only 1 10mm spare in between.
    Also what do u mean by ditching the talas, it's the cause of it? I supposed my problem is to slacken the bike right?

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    How tall are you?

    Sometimes a photo of you on the bike is a big help.

    H

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    Maybe it's simpler than all that.
    I'm 5'7" and Ibis demo peeps put me on a small mojo. I preferred (bought) a med frame for better "in". You can throw a smaller bike around more, but if you're in between sizes, the med frame might work for your stability concerns.
    "My opinions are often more offensive than my *******." - Twindaddy

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    Quote Originally Posted by hanssc View Post
    How tall are you?

    Sometimes a photo of you on the bike is a big help.

    H
    Hi H,

    My height is 5'4 - 5'5 it should be a clear size S right?

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    I am also 5'7 and use a medium, the quick fix is likely to try an angle set but you have said yourself a lack of skill may be an issue so what I would do is try a skills course as the guys would just as what is pointed out here get a chance to look at your style and movement on the bike and maybe a stem change or layback post etc might be recommend either way it is money well spent. I am always amazed of the so called cross country guys skill on steep and rough trails with tiny handlebars and fixed seatpost that reach into the sky they are on the bike rather than in and look what they can do, so skill and movement are a starting point

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    Quote Originally Posted by davidsos View Post
    I am also 5'7 and use a medium, the quick fix is likely to try an angle set but you have said yourself a lack of skill may be an issue so what I would do is try a skills course as the guys would just as what is pointed out here get a chance to look at your style and movement on the bike and maybe a stem change or layback post etc might be recommend either way it is money well spent. I am always amazed of the so called cross country guys skill on steep and rough trails with tiny handlebars and fixed seatpost that reach into the sky they are on the bike rather than in and look what they can do, so skill and movement are a starting point
    Haha, Davidsos, 5'7 and 5'4 makes a whole lot difference dude
    But I agree movements are a starting point. The reason why I am asking is I liked the SL and hope that I don't need to change frames to get what I hoped for.
    My prévious ride was a stumpy and I liked the geo alot.. That kind of in the bike feel

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    So, that's about it? No other alternatives?

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    You won't get a better answer than Hans. "Sometimes a photo of you on the bike is a big help."

    If you can post something up with you riding (like a side angle) he might be able to point out suggestions.
    "My opinions are often more offensive than my *******." - Twindaddy

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    Agree it would be helpful if people posed a side veiw picture of them on the bike fully geared up, and proper base spec setting.

    Otherwise you get allot of opinion may or may not be correct, could get expensive and not suit you at all, not all suggestions including my own suit everyones needs or riding styles.

    To help you! you need to help us

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    Quote Originally Posted by Riyute View Post
    Hi H,

    My height is 5'4 - 5'5 it should be a clear size S right?
    Yes, small sounds right.
    Hans

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    Have you read the thread below link? read some points in here might be useful, various suggestions here, at-least try some base stuff out, you don't need new shocks angle sets just make one change at a time to see if you get the desired outcome you're after.

    Mojo sl woes

    Other than that without seeing you/bike as above I think your cockpit setup is fine for the SL based on what you've told us, I would add the Stumpy GEO is quite different but similar, confusing huh, but they're are subtle differences and Stumpys have a longer reach than similarly sized Mojos while Im not big on static GEO esp for different designs in rear suspension types, single pivot, Horst, VPP, DWL etc you have to look at things a little different each time, based on what how you like to ride, the sit in pos and setup on a horst link you have to apply things differently, Ive owned a Stumpy EVO, you do get some squat on HL even though they pedal great its different to dwl.

    Try this to start. Sounds basic but not followed well, they're s actually very good base info the the IBIS booklet as well.

    Always do the fork first.

    Fork:
    Start by adding air in 5psi increments then adjust rebound then adjust compression in that order some air in 5 psi increments try each change as you go up, remember stiffer spring rate slower rebound, you need to check each change before adding more air, more air you start again, time consuming but best way to get correct result

    Front should be faster than rear, if you like balance front n rear adjust to suit, I prefer faster upfront but still planted, if start losing traction skipping slow down your rebound bit at a time.

    Shock:
    Slow your rear down, dwl is very responsive and with anti squat will sit up putting more weight over the front, too fast rebound this will steepen your HA especially in corners and over obstacles on the way down, as will too much spring rate/air pressure or not enough sag, reduce air pressure in 5psi increments.

    Rear should be slower than the front, the shaft is good starting point, the shock should rebound after compression to full extension but not so fast its trying to top out, do this by pushing down and releasing the rear, if its slow to extend and struggling to reach full stroke speed up until you get full extension, this will be in a controlled manner on its own.

    Try those things first the let us what you find and how the bike feels, do this over the same trail to get consistent feedback for your changes.

    Good hunting.

  15. #15
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    Watch this!

    Just to show you what can be done, ok by a world class rider but still this shows,
    a: you don't need lots of suspension to ride hard or fast or go big.
    b: you don't need to be slacked out.
    c: learn the skills,

    doing a & b just hold back your learning curve until you develop those skills and if people had them, they wouldn't get the basics so wrong.

    This rig has 125mm in the rear 15mm less than your bike, 68 deg Head Angle with an a2c of 501mm way less than most people run, 130mm x 32mm legged fork oh its they're new alloy low cost option.

    I highlight this as its about the rider but setup lets you ride grow to your potential not the bike, bike is just the last peace of the puzzle all bikes today are pretty dam good, but can be easily stuffed up due to the tune-ability they have especially full sus which usually gets set up worse the more travel people get.

    Proper base tuning, these guys will change a few basic things then go ride like this, you should be able too too, the designers know what they are doing, we don't it is a black art though carefully guarded

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    talking about pics! will this do??
    Last edited by Riyute; 01-26-2013 at 05:02 AM.

  17. #17
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    Lots of good info here, but I'd stress one thing: that horst link bikes like the stumpy may tend to run lower in their travel than the DW link ibis, and effectively have a slacker head angle. So a stumpy will favor a more "sit back and plow" technique in the steeps, which is maybe the difference you're feeling. When I got my Mojo, it was a bit of an adjustment, but I quickly got used to a more aggressive "over the front and charge" posture, which is actually a more centered body position that in fact I find to be faster, better for cornering/technical control, and more fun! It's a matter of personal preference, and different designs favoring different riding styles.

    Having said all that, if you're looking for a slacker geometry run 30-35% sag in the rear. The mojo still pedals great at that level, which is one of the attributes of DW link: consistent pedaling at a variety of pressures.
    Last edited by budgie; 01-23-2013 at 07:42 PM.
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    Ok, so far running the sag at 30-35% is one option that I will do.
    Any more options? What do u think about a 50mm 0• stem with cobalt bars?

    Hans, any suggestions based on the photo which I can try?

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    If anything, I would say a longer stem and an offset seatpost. You seem to be sitting very straight up on your bike with little room for shifting your body back and forth.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Crossmaxx View Post
    If anything, I would say a longer stem and an offset seatpost. You seem to be sitting very straight up on your bike with little room for shifting your body back and forth.
    Hi crossmaxx, from what I interpret on your suggestion, it seems wrong frame size?

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Riyute View Post
    talking about pics! will this do??
    You have a longer upper body and we would suggest trying a medium size frame. The seat tube and stand over height are not too high and you would probably get that "in between the wheels instead of up on top of them feeling" that you are looking for.

    Hans

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    Quote Originally Posted by hanssc View Post
    You have a longer upper body and we would suggest trying a medium size frame. The seat tube and stand over height are not too high and you would probably get that "in between the wheels instead of up on top of them feeling" that you are looking for.

    Hans
    Hi Hans, but will the M frame be the appropriate frame met for my built?

  23. #23
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    Umm....try flipping your stem. Looks like a negative rise from the photo.

    Reaching down makes you feel on.
    Reaching a little more up makes you feel in.
    Keep your head tube up!
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    looking at your picture, the bike fit seems right to me. I guess you just have to ride it more and get the feeling of it. I have ditch my talas 140 in my mojo c and replaced it with float 36 with 160 travel on it and a shorter stem and I'm loving it. Much easier to move around the bike with a shorter stem so I guess you might want to try the 50mm stem that you are talking about.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Riyute View Post
    Hi Hans, but will the M frame be the appropriate frame met for my built?
    Sorry, not understanding "met for my built".

    The medium with a short stem is what we suggest having looked at your photo. Do you have a good dealer to work with?

    Hans

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