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  1. #1
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    Mojo & Offset bushings

    Is this possible, want to slacken the bike out a bit? Whats the best to go for? Price and quality considering. It is a standard mojo.

    Many thanks

  2. #2
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    Thinking the same fella

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Highland28 View Post
    Is this possible, want to slacken the bike out a bit? Whats the best to go for? Price and quality considering. It is a standard mojo.

    Many thanks
    Yes. I picked up a pair for my HD (HD & Mojo share same size bushings) from a seller on Ebay. Quality is good and I haven't had any problems. Max offset is 2mm per bushing. I ordered a pair and the lower BB is nice. I ended up only using one since I already have a -1 degree Angleset with a 170mm Fork and both bushings affected climbing too much.

    Offset Shock bushings | Mounting Hardware | Mount kit | All frames | Proshox | eBay


  4. #4
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    Burgetc

    Im using one offset bushing from Burgetc and -1 degree angleset , 160 mm talas ,I think it change a lot the leverage rate and it feels so plush but change HD pedals plataform before a used 170/180 psi and now to get a good pedal feeling Im using 230 but I love the way it works in downhill side.

  5. #5
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    Anyone tried these successfully with a Mojo SL?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by dreednya View Post
    Anyone tried these successfully with a Mojo SL?
    Mojo HD is said to be the same in this area as Mojo Classic and the Classic = Mojo SL, and so it should work just as well for your SL.

    Another way to slacken somewhat is to put on a 650b front wheel.

    "I must not be crazy because I'm seriously questioning my sanity"

  7. #7
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    How about just put a 160 fork in a mojo classic?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by noshortcuts View Post
    Another way to slacken somewhat is to put on a 650b front wheel.
    Quote Originally Posted by timex99 View Post
    How about just put a 160 fork in a mojo classic?
    not everyone wants to raise the front end and bb in order to slacken geo.

  9. #9
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    Quote:
    Originally Posted by dreednya
    Anyone tried these successfully with a Mojo SL?
    Mojo HD is said to be the same in this area as Mojo Classic and the Classic = Mojo SL, and so it should work just as well for your SL.

    Another way to slacken somewhat is to put on a 650b front wheel.
    Yup thinking very seriously of going 650B though with a 2010 150 Revelation Team it does mean changing the fork. Looked at off-set bushings, but I thought I had read on here somewhere that someone had tried it with a SL and it either did not fit or messed up the suspension characteristics of the bike.

    Would be good if I could, steepening the seat angle would also be a bonus

  10. #10
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    It will work, but will affect the DW-link performance also.

  11. #11
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    Is that a negative effect - I'm presuming it will be?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by dreednya View Post
    Is that a negative effect - I'm presuming it will be?
    Will be off the original design... it may be good or bad, depending on the desired use or feeling you're looking for.

  13. #13
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    So if the stroke starts off further into its travel then it may be in the mid-stroke, where it is very plush/blows through depending on your perspective. More of the travel may be affected by the bottom end ramp up. Am I thinking logically?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by dreednya View Post
    Anyone tried these successfully with a Mojo SL?
    If you try it, be sure to check your bottom out clearance between rear tire and seat tube with shock fully depressurized.

    I imagine that somewhere Dave Weagel is shaking his head right now in disapproval....

  15. #15
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    Ive been running the Burgtec bushings, one each side for a degree off the head angle. I have also been running the stock RP23 shock.
    No problems with frame clearance. However I have had issues with the shock blowing through its travel even on small drops/jumps. I know others have had this problem therefore I dont think the offset bushings and the slight change in suspension position is causing the problem.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by sailor74 View Post
    Ive been running the Burgtec bushings, one each side for a degree off the head angle. I have also been running the stock RP23 shock.
    No problems with frame clearance. However I have had issues with the shock blowing through its travel even on small drops/jumps. I know others have had this problem therefore I dont think the offset bushings and the slight change in suspension position is causing the problem.
    HD160?

    With the offset shock bushings the lower BB slacks the frame geometry and the slacker seat tube moves your weight more rearward while seated which does affect travel rate.

    A little change in shock geometry has an effect on compliance, particularly in shallow to mid travel. And the added rear weight bias with no other change makes it easier for the travel to compress through mid travel, and the easier it is to bottom.

    An air shock volume reduction spacer can firm up mid travel, and reduce bottom out frequency, without much loss in small bump compliance using the same sag. If coil , more preload or a firmer coil can do the same. Firmer external compression adjuster damping can reduce bottoming too, but with a more noticeable loss of smaller bump compliance.

  17. #17
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    Cheers Sailor74 and Derby. So the kit fits and works, but I may need to up the air shock volume reducer kit from the medium to large - sounds like it is worth a try, though I'd have to unfit the needle roller bearings from RWC

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by derby View Post
    HD160?

    With the offset shock bushings the lower BB slacks the frame geometry and the slacker seat tube moves your weight more rearward while seated which does affect travel rate.

    A little change in shock geometry has an effect on compliance, particularly in shallow to mid travel. And the added rear weight bias with no other change makes it easier for the travel to compress through mid travel, and the easier it is to bottom.

    An air shock volume reduction spacer can firm up mid travel, and reduce bottom out frequency, without much loss in small bump compliance using the same sag. If coil , more preload or a firmer coil can do the same. Firmer external compression adjuster damping can reduce bottoming too, but with a more noticeable loss of smaller bump compliance.
    Yes HD160mm.
    Im going to fit the standard bushings and see what the difference is if any. I see your point regarding slacker seat tube and therefore more rearward weight however weight is on the BB (pedals) not the seat when blowing through on jumps/drops etc etc.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by dreednya View Post
    So if the stroke starts off further into its travel then it may be in the mid-stroke, where it is very plush/blows through depending on your perspective. More of the travel may be affected by the bottom end ramp up. Am I thinking logically?
    To keep a similar pedaling point, you should use a smaller sag though a higher air pressure. It may produce a too firm feeling at the beginning stroke, and a too proggresive curve at the ending stroke. Both things could work ok on FR/hucking, just when lower BB is not required...

  20. #20
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    Any further reports?

  21. #21
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    im running the offset mounts and they are working fine. I am using an RC4 shock as the 2012 Kashima Fox air shock was poorly tuned and as such pretty useless. I note that for 2013 they are going back to a smaller air can, much like a few other manufacturers too.

    I had to make some small adjustments to the low speed damping and bottom out after fitting the bushings but that was to be expected.

    Anyway not much more to add apart from they do the job as advertised. If you are running the XV air can you fit the bushings to the detriment of the rear suspension which isnt worth the slacker/lower geometry.

  22. #22
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    Thanks. I have the 2013 CTD shock (in 140 mode) and will probably go with an X-Fusion for 160. It sounds like the bushings should work reasonably with them and help with the relatively steep HT and highish BB.

  23. #23
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    Back to the BurgetTec offset shock bushings on Mojo/ Mojo SLR. Has anyone used it successfully? I am looking to slacken the head angle, lower the BB by about .2" and relax the SA, all of which would be accomplished with the Burgetec bushings, (in lieu of
    the angleset alternative- which raises the BB, an unwanted byproduct).
    One possible firment issue with the SLR is that the front bushing offset will shift the Fox RP23 shock 2 mm closer (forward) into the front frame mount. This appears may cause and issue with the shock body/air valve rubbing on the frame mount? An alternative might be an upgrade to the 13 Fox Float CTD shock, which appears to have the airvalve located further inward from the shock eyelet. Any experience or input will be helpful!
    Last edited by buggymancan; 07-18-2013 at 08:04 AM.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by buggymancan View Post
    Back to the BurgetTec offset shock bushings on Mojo/ Mojo SLR. Has anyone used it successfully? I am looking to slacken the head angle, lower the BB by about .2" and relax the SA, all of wich would be accomplished with the Burgetec bushings, (in lieu of
    the angleset alternative- which raises the BB, an unwanted byproduct).
    One possible firment issue with the SLR is that the front bushing offset will shift the Fox RP23 shock 2 mm closer (forward) into the front frame mount. This appears may cause interfernce with the shock body/air valave rubbing on the frame mount? An alternative might be an upgrade to the 13 Fox Float CTD shock, which appears to have the airvalve located further inward from the shock eyelet. Any experience or input will be helpful!
    I've used a brand other than BurgTec, but they appear to be identical to mine in pictures other than being Ti vs Alum. The 5mm drop you're looking for can be achieved by using offset bushings on one end of the shock only, so you could just put them on the rear of the shock and not have to worry about clearance on the front end.

    It's a nice improvement, especially after decreasing shock air volume and dropping the pressure 10 psi.

    edit:

    This setup does decrease the anti-squat effect slightly, at least according to my finely calibrated ass-celerometer, so if you're after BRAIN-ish pedaling response it might feel a bit mushier than you like... I like it, though, for techy all mountain type riding.

    Also, be sure to check your bottom out clearance, tire to seat tube, with shock fully deflated after doing any shock bushing monkey business.

  25. #25
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    Thanks for the input. I have checked the tire/seat tube clearance, no problem w/ SLR. I am running XX1 w/ 32t chainring, so anti-squat is optimized in that chainring (according to IBIS) configuration. Should help negatate any mush resulting from the offset bushings. Did you try fitting the front bushing and if so was there enough shock to front frame mount clearance?

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