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  1. #1
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    Mojo Noise Problem need help

    I just purchased a Mojo a few weeks ago, I love it, best bike I have ridden so far and I have owned many mtn bikes. I am selling my Santa Cruz Nomad, I still have a Santa Cruz Superlight and an old Litespeed that I turned into a single speed 3 years ago but this is my main mtn ride. Anyway, the bike is perfect for me EXCEPT for a noise that is bugging me. It is only when the bike is loaded up on a steep hill and only in the lowest gears?? I tried everything I could think of, then I brought it to a bike shop with a mechanic that has 11 years experiance that was unable to track it down. Has anybody experianced this, if so any fix? I pulled things appart, greased all pivots, snugged all bolts, the shop pulled the BB, and it's still there and still driving me crazy. Any help would be great.

  2. #2
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    places to check for noise abatement

    Sorry, there's not a lot to go by from your description..
    Where does the noise sound like it's coming from?
    What parts are involved?
    Here are a couple of wild a$$ guesses:
    Tighten your rear quick release
    check your pedals and chainring bolts
    if you've ridden in the rain recently, lube the place where the saddle rails go into the seat.
    Let us know the details or if one of those suggestions works!
    Hans

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Truckeemtb
    I just purchased a Mojo a few weeks ago, I love it, best bike I have ridden so far and I have owned many mtn bikes. I am selling my Santa Cruz Nomad, I still have a Santa Cruz Superlight and an old Litespeed that I turned into a single speed 3 years ago but this is my main mtn ride. Anyway, the bike is perfect for me EXCEPT for a noise that is bugging me. It is only when the bike is loaded up on a steep hill and only in the lowest gears?? I tried everything I could think of, then I brought it to a bike shop with a mechanic that has 11 years experiance that was unable to track it down. Has anybody experianced this, if so any fix? I pulled things appart, greased all pivots, snugged all bolts, the shop pulled the BB, and it's still there and still driving me crazy. Any help would be great.
    I had the exact same problem, and quickly found out my cassette lockring was loose AND my new rear wheel was in need of its break-in trueing.

    Check the backend (that's what she said) with the hanger bolt, the derailleur bolt, the cassette lockring...and for cracks in your rim.

  4. #4
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    Thanks much for the response, I have a few new things to try. I haven't pulled the rear cassette, that will be next on the list as will lubing the saddle rails. I have tried different pedals and wheels thinking it could be from there and have tried the chainring bolts and tightening the rear quick release. The hanger bold seems stripped, is this how they are supposed to be, I tried to snug it up and it just spins, seems wrong to me, I haven't seen another Mojo in person so I don't know if this is normal.? Or maybe this is the problem??

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Truckeemtb
    Thanks much for the response, I have a few new things to try. I haven't pulled the rear cassette, that will be next on the list as will lubing the saddle rails. I have tried different pedals and wheels thinking it could be from there and have tried the chainring bolts and tightening the rear quick release. The hanger bold seems stripped, is this how they are supposed to be, I tried to snug it up and it just spins, seems wrong to me, I haven't seen another Mojo in person so I don't know if this is normal.? Or maybe this is the problem??
    Oh NO!!! They are not supposed to be "like that." I presume it was fine when you go it; did you ham fist it?

  6. #6
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    It could be the chain hitting the swingarm...

    Truckee,
    You mentioned it happens on steep hills in the lower gears. On the Mojo, the chain can rub/slap the lowest part of the swing arm. Look at the pic, and you can see the chain barely clearing it near the bb. When compressed, on a rocky climb, it will surely hit this area.....
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #7
    flow where ever you go
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    Don't you need to break out some links from that chain?

    Quote Originally Posted by mbexx
    Truckee,
    You mentioned it happens on steep hills in the lower gears. On the Mojo, the chain can rub/slap the lowest part of the swing arm. Look at the pic, and you can see the chain barely clearing it near the bb. When compressed, on a rocky climb, it will surely hit this area.....
    That would pull your rear d. down and give some more clearance by the bb too!

  8. #8
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    Hmmm

    That hanger bolt has a nut on the back side that has a slot in it. (It is actually just a chainring nut and bolt). There is a specific little spanner tool for them or you can usually use a large screwdriver to hold it in place whilst tightening the outer Allan equiped screw....
    H

  9. #9
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    The large screwdriver worked to tighten the hanger, I finially found my chain whip and tightened up the cassette, I took out the skewers and put some grease on them, played with the freewheel tighness which feels a little funky, I have no experiance with Easton hubs, though the rear seems a little rough when I spin them no matter how loose or snug they are while the front is smooth. I did try a different wheel and that didn't help so even though the rear isn't spinning perfectly I don't think it the hub. Soooo the chain may need to lose a few links, the bottom bracket could be pulled again and I havent greased or looked at the DW pivots. since I have never pulled appart those kind of cranks I am trying to find a mechanic friend to help me this week or next and hopefully something will be found!!!!!! Thanks everyone for the help I gotta be getting closer.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Truckeemtb
    Soooo the chain may need to lose a few links,...
    Careful! Use the Shimano chain length guide that comes with many Shimano drivetrain products.

    The chain should fit the big ring and big cog combo with at least 2 links extra slack when the chain guide is stretched tight. (While riding avoid this combo due to chainline cross angle to the sprockets causing rapid tooth wear, but It's OK for short distances.)

    The axle to BB grows in length during travel compression and needs extra slack compared to a hardtail. If to short you will bind the suspension frequently while riding and wear out the hub, BB, chain, and suspension pivots very rapidly.

    There's no good reason to use a shorter chain than recommended. The chain in the picture above was not too long. It was in a gear combo you should never use. In the granny never go below 5th or 6th gear from lowest in back or risk chain suck and rapid wear.

    Your creek is not from chain slap, which makes a knocking noise that's obvious, and rarely happens when climbing and the chain is tensioned.

  11. #11
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    That makes sense I am always carefull not to cross chain while riding more friction, wear and tear, noise etc. I have had bikes in the past that have come with super long chains though I haven't checked this bike yet. I didn't know the 2 link trick, thanks. You are correct the noise is NOT a chain slap, I am 100% sure.

  12. #12
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    Right on, good points, but still check the chain length

    Quote Originally Posted by derby
    Careful! Use the Shimano chain length guide that comes with many Shimano drivetrain products.

    The chain should fit the big ring and big cog combo with at least 2 links extra slack when the chain guide is stretched tight. (While riding avoid this combo due to chainline cross angle to the sprockets causing rapid tooth wear, but It's OK for short distances.)

    ............. The chain in the picture above was not too long. It was in a gear combo you should never use. In the granny never go below 5th or 6th gear from lowest in back or risk chain suck and rapid wear.

    Your creek is not from chain slap, which makes a knocking noise that's obvious, and rarely happens when climbing and the chain is tensioned.
    At least when using an X.0 rear derailleur and a proper length chain, the never-use small-small combo doesn't look that extreme. At least not so it's rubbing back on the rear d.mojo rear.JPG

  13. #13
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    Derby is exactly right regarding chain length. When I proposed shortening the chain, Scot Nicol replied:

    "Using the small chainring in combination with the 11, 13, or 15 tooth cog is ill advised, we never use those gears and don't think people do use them too much. Thatís a pretty extreme crossover and there is duplicate gearing achievable in the middle ring. You could shorten the chain as long as the bike can go through the full range of travel without over stretching (tearing off) the rear derailleur."

    Only sloppy shifters like me use those gears, usually inadvertently.....Like when I try to clean a hill in the middle ring, then bail to the small chainring in a desperate panic!

  14. #14
    mojo mofo
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    If you can climb a steep rocky hill in that gear combo, you should either be sponsored or committed. Has anyone actually ridden their bike like that? Now I know why bike shops hate JRA warranty stories.

  15. #15
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    Eeeek - you wouldn't/shouldn't need to run the small-small combo - the same ratio is replicable with the middle ring + one of the 'bigger' rear cogs and puts far less strain across the chain pins / derr's etc.

    It's like driving everywhere in 1st gear (sorry - UK resident - I know sticks are less prevalent over there) - you just wouldn't...

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