Mojo/Mojo SL shock removal question
So here's a fun one. I was trying to service the shock on my trusty Mojo, and run into a jam getting the front shock mount hardware to come out. Done this a bunch of times in the past with no problems, but for some reason the pin seems to be seized inside the shock reducer hardware, and I can't tap it out. Squirted everything w/WD40, and no dice (pin rotates fine within the frame shock mount, but not within the shock reducer hardware). I'm trying to tap it out with a small socket and hammer, and applied as much force as I think I should: don't want to crack the frame's shock mount!
Anyone run into this before, or have any bright ideas? Feel like I'm missing something obvious... Thanks in advance!
Can you thread a longer screw into it and hammer on that? I wouldn't band too hard on those short screws when they are barely threaded in.
Turn the bike on it's side, and try and get some WD40 to work its way down?
I had to resort to exactly what d-bug suggested, but used penetrating oil instead of WD-40... just mind the finish... not sure what what prolonged exposure to that nasty stuff would do to it.
Great suggestion -- thanks! -- but still won't budge. Maybe I'll leave it overnight to soak in...
Originally Posted by d-bug
Cool; glad to know I'm not the first one to have difficulties. It should just tap right out, correct? Has been so easy in the past...
Originally Posted by doismellbacon
Will give the penetrating oil a try; otherwise will give the mother ship a holler & see what they say.
Yep, should tap out... better to let it soak overnight than going all gorilla on it. I did have to smack mine fairly hard though.
You could also try tightening one screw fairly tight to see if you can get it to rotate inside the shock. You would do this with the screw on the other side removed. Again, I would use a long screw so as to reduce the chance of ruining the threads.
You could try doing both methods at once. Someone tries to rotate the pin by tightening it, while you try to hammer it loose from the other side. The combination of the two forces should get it budging.
This assumes there isn't something physically wrong with the bike that us Internet troubleshooters can't see.
If you still don't have any luck with the penetrating oil you could try mixing up your own high powered penetrating oil by mixing ATF oil & acetone together. Wouldn't want to get any of this on the frame finish, so I would use an eye dropper or syringe with the bike on its side appling small amounts.
A Buddy of mine just did a full frame up restoration on a old Norton Commando & he had alot of issues with seized bolts & bushing to get the bike apart. When regular penetrating oil didn't work the home brew usually did the trick.
Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I'll have to get to the hardware store & grab some penetrating oil, since the wd40 isn't cutting it despite d-bug's excellent suggestions. (I wonder if I buy pen oil & acetone in the same transaction whether some light will go off in the Homeland Security black ops control center somewhere?) And what is ATF oil? Special blend for burning out Branch Dividians? (gratuitous Waco reference...)
Incidentally, I'm surprised this doesn't happen more often. The tolerance on this hardware must be super tight, since any play you'd feel immediately. And then if you sweat as much as I do...
The blend is acetone & ATF ( Automatic transmission fluid ). Budgie, do you think there's any chance the pin maybe slightly bent?
Originally Posted by budgie
Ah, auto transmission fluid makes a lot more sense.
Originally Posted by xc71
As for a bent pin, I'm trying to ignore this possibility but unfortunately I'm concerned this is the case. I realized tonight that when I thread in one of the bolts, it sort of "waggles" just a smidge as if it's not going in straight. It threads in fine with no resistance, so it's not a cross-threading/stripping issue, but if the pin were bent then it would explain it.
And if the pin is bent, I think I'm fcuked, which is why I'm choosing to ignore this possibility & pursue the other options!
Not sure how the pin would have gotten bent in the first place, but that's a whole other story...
Last edited by budgie; 01-07-2013 at 09:11 PM.
Last edited by budgie; 01-07-2013 at 09:10 PM.
Originally Posted by budgie
Yeah..... that waggling bolt is not a good sign.... sounds like you're going to have to slow down.... and jump lower. Do you bottom out your shock pretty regularly? Seems to me that excessive hard bottoming would be the likely explanation of a bent upper pin. May be time for a call to Ibisland...
Todd from Ibis emailed me with the winning combo (just of his own accord after seeing this thread, I might add):
"I think soaking it in liquid wrench for a day is worth a try. Sometimes you can use a washer under a water bottle bolt (m5x15or 20) and extract it by tightening the screw and pulling the pin into the small space under the washer."
So I did just that. I really cranked down on the bolt -- the reducer was still rotating with the pin -- and was concerned I was now going to have a stuck bolt to add to my worries. But this pulled the pin out just enough to get things going, and I was able to hammer it out the rest of the way from the other side. Phew!
The pin appears not to be bent after all. There is some scoring on it, which might be a result of all this abuse over the past few days. The reducer hardware does have quite a bit of corrosion on the inside surfaces. But other than that, I don't see anything obvious that would account for this issue. Chalk it up to my unusually corrosive perspiration, acidic personality, or chronically high blood-caffeine levels.
I think I'll replace the pin & reducer hardware, and start afresh once I've serviced the shock.
Overall, all's well that ends well! It's a huge relief to have it resolved & not have to retire my frame! It's a 2008, but I still plan on squeezing more miles out of it yet. Hope this thread is useful to anyone in the unlucky event that they're stuck in the same position. Thanks to everyone for their help, and of course to Todd for the expert advice & awesome customer support!