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  1. #1
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    Mojo HDR-650b-What setting for Cane Creek DB Air?

    Cane creek only lists a base tune for the HD on their website and this is what I've started with. So far I've found nobody posting their tune and I haven't had a response to my post in the Cane Creek lounge. Any input from someone running the CCDBA would be much appreciated!

  2. #2
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    That is probably because you have to take apart the shock and shim it to work with either 650b in 160 mode reduced to 145-150 and they would probably want different valving, or because the shock's stroke will be too long with the frame(chips) in true 650 mode. And while Ibis is very freewheeling with other manufacturers products ( just take things apart and frankenstein the shock to make it the bike you really wanted ), other manufacturers probably don't want to touch anything remotely sounding as official ( think Fox here with shimming shocks, while Ibis is all about it, I haven't read one official PR from Fox on "go ahead and start playing with shims" with regards to customers modifying other manufactures products to make them something they inherently are not engineered in an OEM fashion to do ).

  3. #3
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    What size shock/travel are you using? What type of terrain do you ride? One of the reasons for the 4 way tuning capabilities is for personalization.

    My personal tunings on my HD 650B 160 (not much difference in the bikes):

    Sag - 35% or 22mm
    HSC - .5 turns
    HSR - 3 turns (+ .25 base)
    LSC - 7 clicks (+2 base )
    LSR - 14 clicks (-2 base)


    HDR 650B (130) => 200 mm x 50 mm (7.87 in x 2 in)
    HDR 160 is => 215 mm x 63 mm (8.5 in x 2.5 in)

    As a side note, Cane Creek doesn't concur with any shimming, for them you get a shock with the proper stroke/travel

  4. #4
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    I'm running the 2"X 7.87" shock.

    I ride in Western North Carolina with a 50% mix of fire roads and single track. Rocks and roots are common. I am headed to Colorado in a couple weeks and will be riding mostly gravel single track and some long fire road climbs for few of my rides.

    I've been reviewing the Cane Creek website and it seems like I'll need to pay attention to pedal bob on the climbs and make adjustments for that, readjust the SAG when I get to CO, and adjust HSC if I'm going to be descending any gnarly terrain. I've never ridden a bike with this much travel and an adjustable shock. It's all new to me....and fun!

    Quote Originally Posted by pastajet View Post
    What size shock/travel are you using? What type of terrain do you ride? One of the reasons for the 4 way tuning capabilities is for personalization.

    My personal tunings on my HD 650B 160 (not much difference in the bikes):

    Sag - 35% or 22mm
    HSC - .5 turns
    HSR - 3 turns (+ .25 base)
    LSC - 7 clicks (+2 base )
    LSR - 14 clicks (-2 base)


    HDR 650B (130) => 200 mm x 50 mm (7.87 in x 2 in)
    HDR 160 is => 215 mm x 63 mm (8.5 in x 2.5 in)

    As a side note, Cane Creek doesn't concur with any shimming, for them you get a shock with the proper stroke/travel

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by nevermiss View Post
    I'm running the 2"X 7.87" shock.

    I ride in Western North Carolina with a 50% mix of fire roads and single track. Rocks and roots are common. I am headed to Colorado in a couple weeks and will be riding mostly gravel single track and some long fire road climbs for few of my rides.

    I've been reviewing the Cane Creek website and it seems like I'll need to pay attention to pedal bob on the climbs and make adjustments for that, readjust the SAG when I get to CO, and adjust HSC if I'm going to be descending any gnarly terrain. I've never ridden a bike with this much travel and an adjustable shock. It's all new to me....and fun!
    No need to go too crazy. If you like your current settings, try adding one click each of LSC and LSR and don't change anything else. You might decide you want more but that one click usually does it for me. I do the opposite if trail conditions are super greasy.
    Only two infinite things exist: the universe and stupidity. And, I am unsure of the universe
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  6. #6
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    The new DBair CS is the ticket. I test rode for a couple of longs rides on a HDR 650B and it was pretty ideal. I just got one in house to test on my normal HD 160, so looking forward to some more long term testing.

    My usual quick fix for long climbs was just to bump up the air pressure. I found that the LSC and LSR made more differences on the DW-Link than either of the high speed ones.

    Gravel singletrack, sounds like my local Colo Spgs terrain!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by pastajet View Post
    The new DBair CS is the ticket. I test rode for a couple of longs rides on a HDR 650B and it was pretty ideal. I just got one in house to test on my normal HD 160, so looking forward to some more long term testing.

    My usual quick fix for long climbs was just to bump up the air pressure. I found that the LSC and LSR made more differences on the DW-Link than either of the high speed ones.

    Gravel singletrack, sounds like my local Colo Spgs terrain!
    FWIW, the CS works by adding LSC and LSR. It's not as convenient with the standard CCDBA but you can do the same thing.
    Only two infinite things exist: the universe and stupidity. And, I am unsure of the universe
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by pastajet View Post
    The new DBair CS is the ticket. I test rode for a couple of longs rides on a HDR 650B and it was pretty ideal. I just got one in house to test on my normal HD 160, so looking forward to some more long term testing.

    My usual quick fix for long climbs was just to bump up the air pressure. I found that the LSC and LSR made more differences on the DW-Link than either of the high speed ones.

    Gravel singletrack, sounds like my local Colo Spgs terrain!
    So I just picked up a used Mojo (135x12 rear axle) frame with a pushed Monarch RT shock. I settled on 35% sag, 6 clicks rebound,no compression. I am 6'2 225 with gear. I am definitely going to convert to 650B. I am also considering upgrading to the CCDBA. I ride mostly 15-25 mile rides, lots of climbing, fast chunky descents, I don't jump, I do take drops. I go up to the ski area maybe 3-5 times a year. I can't really afford a new CCDBA so I am looking at used units without the CS switch.

    My questions:
    -Will I really need a shock with the CS switch (It pedals pretty good without out)?
    -The big shimming question (Everyone on here says it has to be done. Yet you seem to get away without it. I weigh a lot more than you though)?
    -What rear tires have you successfully used with your project?
    -instead of shimming can I tweak the shocks settings to just not allow me to get the last bit of travel out of it?
    -should I be asking any other questions?
    2012 Ibis Mojo HD (153mm 650B)
    Yeti SB95 Carbon
    1993 Brodie Expresso
    RIP 1997 Santa Cruz Heckler.In 2010 the frame cracked

  9. #9
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    in 160 mode it has to be shimmed. i wouldnt risk it without it. i was going to wait for cs but couldnt wrap my head around how to reduce travel and cc responses were not really helpful. instead i ordered roco from bikeco, tuned, with reduced stroke for hd 650b conversion.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by brankulo View Post
    in 160 mode it has to be shimmed. i wouldnt risk it without it. i was going to wait for cs but couldnt wrap my head around how to reduce travel and cc responses were not really helpful. instead i ordered roco from bikeco, tuned, with reduced stroke for hd 650b conversion.
    I have thought about trying different companies shock. But I have heard that the CCDBA is the best. And being a Clydesdale, knowing that in my 25 years of MTB'ing this is hands down the most amazing bike I have ever ridden, why settle for anything less than the best if I can afford it (Used of course). I have considered the old style DHX air, RS vivid, RS Monarch RC3, really didn't think about the Roco. I will put that on the list. I am also really thinking about trying the DSP racing Dueler shock. Weight and cost isn't bad and it comes with a titanium spring. So many choices. But again I have always wante to try the CCDBA so who knows. Hopefully Brian will chime in at some point.
    2012 Ibis Mojo HD (153mm 650B)
    Yeti SB95 Carbon
    1993 Brodie Expresso
    RIP 1997 Santa Cruz Heckler.In 2010 the frame cracked

  11. #11
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    call bikeco see what they can do for you. they will tune roco for you.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by spunkmtb View Post
    I have thought about trying different companies shock. But I have heard that the CCDBA is the best. And being a Clydesdale, knowing that in my 25 years of MTB'ing this is hands down the most amazing bike I have ever ridden, why settle for anything less than the best if I can afford it (Used of course). I have considered the old style DHX air, RS vivid, RS Monarch RC3, really didn't think about the Roco.
    Do a little research on Avalanche Downhill Racing also. Craig, the owner, is a great guy and his shocks and dampers are some of the best. He will custom tune a shim stack in his SSD according to your personal preferences. I have never ridden a CCDB but it is unbelievable how better his speed sensitive damper in a coiler chassis is compared to a stock RP23. It transforms an already great HD to a different, much better bike. People who tried Avy are converts for life.

  13. #13
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    Well I purchased the CCDBA tonight. Now the question is to get it shimmed or increase the bottom out. I will get to ride it for a bit before I 650 my bike to decide what to do and play with the settings.
    2012 Ibis Mojo HD (153mm 650B)
    Yeti SB95 Carbon
    1993 Brodie Expresso
    RIP 1997 Santa Cruz Heckler.In 2010 the frame cracked

  14. #14
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    To the OP how is the CCDBA and the 650B conversion going? About a week after purchasing my CCDBA I crashed and my arm has been in a cast for 3 months. It is getting removed next week (I hope).

    Anyway I have my 650B wheelset and now I really need to start thinking about shocks. I am planning on calling CC and asking them if it is possible to tune out the last 13mm of travel. It should be an interesting experiment. If the CCDBA doesn't work out for me I am considering the Bikeco Marzocchi unit or the Xfusion Vector HLR and asking them to do a custom shim job as well.
    2012 Ibis Mojo HD (153mm 650B)
    Yeti SB95 Carbon
    1993 Brodie Expresso
    RIP 1997 Santa Cruz Heckler.In 2010 the frame cracked

  15. #15
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    Just an update if anyone is interested. I called Cane Creek and told them what I wanted to do. Once he got through the schpeal about how CC cannot endorse any changes to their shock and I informed him that I knew the risks. I said I needed to shorten the stroke by 13mm (This is how much Bikeco reduces the travel on their Marzocchi TST air). Since I am located in CA he said to send my CCDBA to Garageworks (Also said Suspension Experts for the E. Coast) and they could help me out.

    Garageworks said he could shim the shock to any travel length I want. It does cost a full rebuild which I was quoted about $150 I think. Also I asked for a Ghetto climb switch. When Specialized first released their Enduro 29er with the CCDBA (Prior to the CS) they had a small lever attached to the LSC to tune it while riding for extra climbing traction

    Anyway now I just need to discover somewhere on the boards is how many MM'S the shock needs to be reduced in travel. If anyone knows this number please let me know.
    2012 Ibis Mojo HD (153mm 650B)
    Yeti SB95 Carbon
    1993 Brodie Expresso
    RIP 1997 Santa Cruz Heckler.In 2010 the frame cracked

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