Mojo hd bike suspension set up questions
So I took the bike out for its first run. It rode pretty well. The front end felt harsh in the rough stuff. I suspect this was from too much rebound damping( 6 clicks). I had The lowest compression settings on as well
I am thinking of speeding it up by two clicks for the next ride. Should I also speed up the shock to match the forks new setting?
I set the psi to the factory spec's minus 5 pounds.
Also if it matters I am running fox 34 float ctd and rp23.
Any help/advice , or what your set ups are would be greatly appriciated.
Run a lot less rebound than you think you would need normally. There is a lot of interaction between the forks and the rear shock so make sure it feels pretty balanced in the parking lot test. You will over drive the softer of the two and it will effect the ride. My 36 rebound is 1 click from wide open on the front. My Monarch RC3 is wide open in the rear. I picked up 20 seconds on a 7 minute DH with just these changes.
Thanks, based on your answer I am going to to move the rebound to three clicks from wide open , front and rear. For this ride and then re-evaluate. The bike is still breaking in.
Originally Posted by Salespunk
You my friend have some badly valved suspension. How much do you weigh? The only way you should be running it nearly wide open is if you're suspension is valved incorrectly. Thats assuming that you know how to setup a bike and aren't just running it ridiculously fast. No offense, just sounds weird
Originally Posted by Salespunk
Monarch Plus RC3 set up question
What body weights to PSI in the Monarch are people running? I cannot find any good info on this.
Do any of the Monarch Plus RC3 users on Mojo HDs have any input on what psi to run given a particular body weight? I am running about 140-150 psi right now and my riding weight is probably about 180. Does that seem logical? It is so off of the recommended psi for the RP23 that I am nervous. Rock Shox does not seem to post any minimum or maximum psi for this shock.
Thanks for any advice.
You go by your Sag setting, different shocks take different amounts of pressure to achieve proper Sag.
Originally Posted by hrsjqb1
I am 185 and running 175psi on my RC3, gets me right at 30%
The HD rides well for different uses with sag anywhere from 25% to 40%. Fork sag from 20% to 25%. Less sag for firmer, more XC uses, like where there is much climbing and smooth tight trails.
Experiment with different sag settings. Carry a shock pump on a ride and stop and adjust to get immediate comparisons.
Tune damping after any major change in sag. If the shock or fork manufacturer doesn't have starting recommendations, start with compression adjusters (if any) wide open, fastest, counter clockwise. Count the number of clicks or full turns of rebound adjustment, and set the rebound adjustment in the middle of the range.
Ride, then stop and adjust rebound 1 click at a time softer, also try firmer, from the starting point. Ride, and repeat, until you find the softest or firmest rebound setting that feels best, not bouncy, not harsh.
Once a good rebound feeling is found, stable but compliant, then try firming compression adjusters (if any) to reduce braking fork dive and shock pedal bob, also to reduce bottoming combined with the desired spring firmness. After firming up compression adjustment (if any) try a click softer rebound, since the compression damping is now adding stability.
Trial and Error...we all have a different idea of how the bike should feel. I personaly like it on the firm side , this makes the bike more stable at speed but a little rough.
- LSC 7 *clicks all from closed*
- HSC 10
- Rebound 8
- 70 PSI
- Rebound 2 Clicks from closed
This is a good setup for 200 pound rider weight.
I am running 150 PSI with a 200 lb rider weight with gear on my Monarch RC3. Running 47 PSI in my 36 Float which was confirmed as proper by Fox despite what their manuals say. I still rarely bottom the fork
Yody, no offense taken. I would not have believed it until I tried it. My fork was just rebuilt by Fox neutral support at Dville three weeks ago, so nothing wrong there. I was running my rear shock with 5 clicks from wide open previously, but this setup is way faster down a hill.
Also, Scott Nichol has stated that the HD does not run well with rebound dampening and to run it almost wide open.
Originally Posted by canuck_tacoma
So here is the update:
Trial and error for sure. The rebound was better a 3 clicks from wide open, although now I think two clicks would be better.
I noticed the bike was using a lot of travel so I added five pounds front and rear. MISTAKE! I went over the bars and bent the hanger. So while letting the knee heal and waiting on the new hanger, I did some research on my suspension . Turns out my suspension needs less pressure not more. Apparently the new Fox products are designed to use most of their travel , mos of the time.
The review of my fork on pink bike confirmed travel usage and the message boards here talk alot about getting a fox tuning kit to keep the rear from bottoming out.
So for the next ride I am going with open compression and 2 clicks of rebound damping with 100 psi on The front.
The rear will be 200( -10 pis from last ride) with open compression and 2 clicks from full fast.
Plus my boost valve is 200, with low rebound model.
Thanks for all the advice, it's really helping out this novice suspension tuner.
100 PSI sounds like a lot of pressure in the 34. I am running 47 PSI in my 36.
Make sure you only change one thing at a time. Air pressure should be the easiest, just set the sag and go. 30% rear and about 30-35mm in the front while in the attack (standing) position. Once there then start changing the dampening. Once you have the dampening set, then start playing with the air pressure in small increments. It is important to remember that when you attach the pump you will lose about 5 PSI. If you need to reduce the air pressure simply screw the pump on and then take it off. If you release any more than that you will be pulling too much out.
Do not change more than one thing at a time since it will just confuse you as to what is working and what isn't.
Okay, so I checked fox and ibis' websites for proper weight -pressure starting numbers. Based on my weight and the websites, I should be using 90 lbs in the front pre-sag and 200 in the back pre-sag. With riding gear my weight is 210, ibis says to start with that as your pressure. However , my boost valve is 200, I want to try riding with matching numbers (200/200) first.
Here is where it gets complicated: Fox now has 18 clicks of rebound, so do I adjust in 2 click increments? Or one ?
90 for fork seems too much. i run 50 in my 36 and weight 190lbs. i get almost full travel all the time, less maybe 1/4".
Here is a related but slightly tangential question: does anyone have experience with both the new CTD and the preceding versions of the RP23 on the Mojo HD? If so, are there noticeable improvements with the new version?
From reading through a bunch of these threads, I kind of got the feeling the general consensus was that the older versions of the RP23 were rather underwhelming. I'm seen a few comments that have suggested the newer CTD version has improved - but nothing specific to the Mojo HD.
I'm real close to pulling the trigger on a Mojo HD and was leaning toward getting a DHX RC4 but that may be a little overkill for most of my day to day riding. If the new RP23 has improved, I makes my decision a little less difficult.
Any thoughts are appreciated.
Last edited by CLAW; 09-06-2012 at 05:08 PM.
The New Fork has a new air spring. I got my number from Fox's website. I think it's called FIT? Anyway, there is only one fox 34 float 26". Fork, so I don't think I got it confused with another fork.
Originally Posted by brankulo
Don't be concerned with the actual psi number since pumps readings can be all over the place just put in whatever amount of air gets you to 30-33% sag in the front and 30% in the rear. Follow salespunks advice. You don't want much compression at all in the rear but probably want some in the front to help prevent it diving.
I have never in close to 10 years been able to run the high pressure Fox recommends for their forks. I run my 36 at about 60 PSI and I am 230lbs with gear on. About a month ago I was able to try a Tall Boy LTC with a 34 Fox up front and the PSI for the fork was about the same 60PSI range in order for me to get the 30% sag.
Originally Posted by saidrick
I check my sag in the attack position, standing with with my weight over the bars and full gear on. I also check the amount of travel I use on my rides and even when doing 3-4 foot drops to flat I have yet to bottom out the front, I come close but still have about 5 mm of travel left.
Hmm, that seems like a low pressure.
Originally Posted by Murchman
I did a A little 2' drop to flat that used at least 80% of my travel. That was with my fork at 100 pounds of pressure.
My recommended pressure is 65 PSI for my 36 and I run 47. Just an FYI.
Your fork and shock pressure sounds high to me to, just like others have told you. Don't go by the fox recomended psi numbers, they are high. Run what ever psi you need to get 30-35% sag in the rear and 25-30% sag in the front. For what ever reason it seems like fork manufactures always recomemend psi that is to high. Just for refrence, Im 195lbs geared up and run 157 psi in my pushed monarch plus and 55psi on my fox float 36. When I ran an rp23 with medium volume spacer I ran 170psi in it. My numbers seem more inline with what others have posted. Your numbers seem extremely high. Try lower psi,if you don't like it just pump the psi back up. Can't hurt to try it.
So the weather was great today and I was a bit bored so I grabbed my HD and mounted the GoPro to show my 36 in action with 60PSI in the Fork.
First video is my playing on a small bridge in the skills area.
<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/49793421?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" width="500" height="281" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen></iframe>
Second is a longer video out on one of the trails with some good flow.
<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/49803389?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" width="500" height="281" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen></iframe>
murchman--- what year talas is that? Its soo apparent that my 2011 talas(converted to float) need to be chucked and a new for needs to be in order.. Ive never had a fork that is so active and able to take those bumps from the trail as your fork is.. Im thinking about the xfusion slant.. IDK....