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  1. #1
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    Ideal front chainring size for 1x10/XX1 on the Ripley?

    Hans-

    I will be running a 1x10 initially and possibly XX1 in the future, was wondering what would be the "optimal" size for the front chainring? 32t? 33t? How would a 27t/28t perform?

  2. #2
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    I beleive ibis listed the ideal chain ring range on their write up.

    If the gearing is too tall for you then riding with the smaller ring is what you have to do. I'm sure the bike will still perform quite well.

  3. #3
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    "The advancements in 29er fork technology allowed Ibis to design a bike in every size, which when ridden in the 34 chain-ring, has almost 100 percent anti-squat, reasonable standover height, and the same trail numbers as the bike makerís venerable Ibis SL-R."

  4. #4
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    Have you run the numbers relative to your current setup, fitness, and riding locations to determine how low of a gear you need?

    -D

  5. #5
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    Currently running a 28T, but have ran a 32T as well without much issue. I think I heard in one of the promo videos that it is optimized around a 33, so I might go back to the 32 and try that out.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Colin+M View Post
    Currently running a 28T, but have ran a 32T as well without much issue. I think I heard in one of the promo videos that it is optimized around a 33, so I might go back to the 32 and try that out.
    A 32 or 34 will be optimal.
    The suspension works astonishingly well with that set up.
    H

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by hanssc View Post
    A 32 or 34 will be optimal.
    The suspension works astonishingly well with that set up.
    H
    Perfect! Thank you sir, can't wait to try it out.

  8. #8
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    Hans... I am curious about what is the effect of running a smaller single chainring versus the 32 or 34 tooth... I currently run a 1x10 set-up on my SL-R...using a 27 tooth chainring... I prefer to pedal up a hill than hike it and don't have the strength or stamina to push the bigger rings... Does the smaller chainring overcome the anti-squat effect??
    Thanks

  9. #9
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    I think the smaller chainrings will add more antisquat but loosing a feww tooth down to 30 or 28 really shouldn't make too much difference.

  10. #10
    MSH
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    One question I have is if the narrow Q factor (156) SRAM XX1 cranks I picked up for my Ripley build will work? I can easily swap them out with my LBS I bought my XX1 gruppo from if not

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSH View Post
    One question I have is if the narrow Q factor (156) SRAM XX1 cranks I picked up for my Ripley build will work? I can easily swap them out with my LBS I bought my XX1 gruppo from if not
    156 will fit just fine.
    H

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jrsandiego View Post
    Hans... I am curious about what is the effect of running a smaller single chainring versus the 32 or 34 tooth... I currently run a 1x10 set-up on my SL-R...using a 27 tooth chainring... I prefer to pedal up a hill than hike it and don't have the strength or stamina to push the bigger rings... Does the smaller chainring overcome the anti-squat effect??
    Thanks
    The smaller chainring will give you more anti squat. The 27 will ride fine and should feel pretty good, though you might spin out the 11 at times. I rode a bunch of terrain in the 24t on the 34 24 double the other day so I could comment on this and I can say that it rides well.

    H

  13. #13
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    Thanks!!

  14. #14
    MSH
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    Quote Originally Posted by hanssc View Post
    156 will fit just fine.
    H
    Perfect. Thanks again Hans!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by hanssc View Post
    156 will fit just fine.
    H
    Hi Hans, 156 is not fitting just fine on my XL. Please see my post below, is there something I'm missing?

    Anybody has crank clearance issues with the Ripley?

  16. #16
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    I'm running a 30t today on a Trek Superfly 100 AL, so I'll start there.

    Since the XX1/X01 42t is alu, you might wanna consider not hanging there too much as a new cassette is USD 400, and there is no replacement available for just the single cog. Again, that might make you choose a one step smaller front ring than you would otherwise to reserve it for those times you really need a lower gear than normal.

    I am speaking from experience with an XX cassette that had it in less than one season.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by simenf View Post
    I'm running a 30t today on a Trek Superfly 100 AL, so I'll start there.

    Since the XX1/X01 42t is alu, you might wanna consider not hanging there too much as a new cassette is USD 400, and there is no replacement available for just the single cog. Again, that might make you choose a one step smaller front ring than you would otherwise to reserve it for those times you really need a lower gear than normal.

    I am speaking from experience with an XX cassette that had it in less than one season.
    Is the 42t cog user removable? If I understand the construction process correctly, the big cog should be the cheapest part of the whole shebang. I'm trying to imagine a $400 crankset with non-replaceable chainrings. Crazy...

    -D

  18. #18
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    No it cannot be removed. If you pay attention to your chain stretch and swap it at .75 the rear cassette will last YEARS. I had 7 chains on my last cassette over three years without issue. You can get a chain wear indicator from Park tools for about $20.

  19. #19
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    I am just telling what I (and many others) have experienced. It all comes down to how you use your gears. My chain was nowhere near being worn out and passed the park tool checker test without problems. Just my 2c.

    Edit: it was just the big cog that was worn out, the rest was hardly marked.

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