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  1. #1
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    Ibis Mojo SL vs. SLR

    Maybe this topic has been gone through, but I didn't see it as I searched the forums. I am in the market for a new SL-R, Though as I am contemplating the build, a buddy says he will sell me his SL (2011) for a damn good price so he can get a Ripley. I am wanting to ask, those who have ridden both frames, what are the real differences? I've been all over the website. So I know what has been printed but I am looking for real ride specifics. Also, were there any real differences in the Mojo SL from years 2010-current?

  2. #2
    aka dan51
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    Go for the SL-R. Else it will be like getting his ex.
    "When I had it I..."
    "It never did that for me, good luck figuring it out..."
    "She was a good bike, but..."
    Or just get a Ripley and beat him to it.

    As for major differences, the lower link is the only thing I am aware of, but you can get a new one for $80 or such.
    There may be internal carbon layup differences that won't be made public.

  3. #3
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    Good article on the new carbon layup process they used with the SL-R
    Ibis Mojo SL-R Launched - BikeRadar

    Lighter & stiffer

    "When it comes to stiffness, Ibis cite a 10 percent lateral improvement and 100 percent torsional improvement compared to the original Mojo. In fact, they say the frame is nearly as stiff (80-90%) as the heavier-duty, longer-travel HD model yet weighs over 1lb less."

  4. #4
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    Ok.... I was hoping there wasn't a huge difference so I could save $3000....

  5. #5
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    and slr has tapered headtube for that stiffer front end a 12x142 maxle if im not mistaken

  6. #6
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    If you have no plans to go 650b and your OK with a PFBB then the stiffness and tappered HT on the SL-R make it a great choice. I went through the same decision and ended up with the SL. Why? Better 650b clearence and my hatred of PFBBs. Being able to use my exsisting wheelset (as is) also helped make the decision a bit easier.

  7. #7
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    Thanks for the info. Along with the tapered headset, it seems the Cane Creek angle set only works with the SL-R. One other difference I noticed is the front derailleur mount was updated on the SL-R to make a 2x10 setup easier.

  8. #8
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    Why stop at 2x10? For the cost difference, you can grab an SL and opt for XX1 (1x11).

  9. #9
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    I've ridden both, and the SL-R definitely inspires more confidence, probably because of the greater stiffness (via the tapered head tube, rear thruaxle and improved carbon layup, which is also supposed to be more durable).

    Also you get cleaner cable routing with the SL-R (may seem like a minor thing, but the SL-style routing came to annoy me quite bit), including a slot specifically for dropper post.

    SL-R is also lighter, though not by a whole lot.

    The direct mount front derailleur feature is good in theory too, especially for 2x10, though allows for less FD adjustability.

    The SL is nice, but if you want to keep your bike for a while, I think the technology is getting a bit dated. Though if you can save thousands, it would still be tempting...

  10. #10
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    Fair enough. I think I'm leaning the way of the SL-R. I like that black and blue colorway as well. Thanks all

  11. #11
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    Bought some used 26 carbon fiber light bicycle wheels so I don't plan on needing to run 650b. Is it worth trying to upgrade my frame from SL to SL-R?

    How much should I pay for a used SLR medium frame and how much would I be able to get for my SL frame?

  12. #12
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    You can look on eBay to get an idea or scan craigslist.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  13. #13
    Ride On!
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    Also, check PinkBike, they have a great classifieds section

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by michael1 View Post
    Bought some used 26 carbon fiber light bicycle wheels so I don't plan on needing to run 650b. Is it worth trying to upgrade my frame from SL to SL-R?

    How much should I pay for a used SLR medium frame and how much would I be able to get for my SL frame?
    You do realize you would need a new fork (or at least an adapter to make your current fork work with the tapered head tube on the SL-R), new bottom bracket, new front derailleur (if you use one) and new rear axle if you swap the SL for the SL-R?

    If you're not suffering from flex coming from the fork steer tube, I don't really see the point in swapping an SL for an SL-R. The SL-R isn't lighter, the geometry is the same (with the exception that the SL-R allows you to install an angleset headset to slacken it out a little) and sooner or later you will feel like trying out a bike with a newer geometry anyway (it's must now be around 12-13 years since the Mojo/SL/SL-R geometry was penned).

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crossmaxx View Post
    You do realize you would need a new fork (or at least an adapter to make your current fork work with the tapered head tube on the SL-R), new bottom bracket, new front derailleur (if you use one) and new rear axle if you swap the SL for the SL-R?

    If you're not suffering from flex coming from the fork steer tube, I don't really see the point in swapping an SL for an SL-R. The SL-R isn't lighter, the geometry is the same (with the exception that the SL-R allows you to install an angleset headset to slacken it out a little) and sooner or later you will feel like trying out a bike with a newer geometry anyway (it's must now be around 12-13 years since the Mojo/SL/SL-R geometry was penned).
    The wheels I just bought are 20 f 142 r, so I'd need to buy >$100 in adapters. I sort of want a burlier fork to match the CC DB Inline either way.

    I can get a good deal on an HD-R frame that includes the 26 limbo chips, headset, and BB. That might be the better option and then the difference in selling the frame and fork that I can sell should be $300 to $500. There are some good deals on Marzocchi 55 rc3 ti. A bit heavier, but I'm out of shape enough that it wouldn't really make a difference to the rides I can do, and the coil seems nice.

    For the FD, I have an XO with a bolt that attaches it to the seat clamp so it looks like it would also work with direct mount.

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