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  1. #1
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    HD vs SLR, currently riding SL

    I am currently riding an SL with the upgraded SLR links, but thinking about an HD or an SLR. Anybody lucky enough to have a comparison experience?

  2. #2
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    I just went through this decision. I am planning to write-up my bike search experience when I get the chance. There is lots of good info on this topic (search on posts from Yodi iirc) but I rode an SL-R and an HD back to back on a loop trail that I know well (have ridden an SL, blur ltc, kona cadabra, and an old ass hardtail on the same trail). At the end of the day the HD was more fun coming down but the SL-R felt like a better everyday bike. The $400 price difference helped make the decision for me as well. I went with an SL-R with a slightly beefier build than the test ride bike and one degree slack with the cane creek angleset. PM me and I can tell you where I got to demo both.

    Btw: I think most will say that if you have a SL then get the HD as the SL is basically the same bike as the SL-R. I'm a big guy so that might make a difference, but I feel a huge stiffness step up in the R version. I was down to 0 bikes and waited the extra month and spent the extra $1500 on the R.

  3. #3
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    you gain stiffness and the ability to use an angleset.

    When my sl dies, I'd probably go with an slr as well. I don't go big enough to need an hd.

  4. #4
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    I dont take huge drops, but I ride fast loopy trails with rough surface. Vertical 1500 to 3500ft and I dont mind hauling a little extra weight uphill, but I wonder what I am missing while railing those downhill turns.

  5. #5
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    an indirect observation

    My most compatible riding partner in terms of speed and style was previously on a several year old Blur LT, and I was previously on a Mojo SL. We would generally ride about the same speed (he faster up, I with better endurance, pretty comparable on the downs with me a bit quicker maybe).

    I got a nice HD for my birthday, he recently got a blinged out SLR for his with carbon wheels, xtr the works.

    Our riding differences are now completely exaggerated - I can't touch him on climbs, giving full effort just to keep pace while he's cracking jokes and long monologues and wheelieing around etc. And (although he might not admit this) I crush him on the downhills now, not that we are competitive or anything...

    For my part, I simply have more fun on the HD. Never bother to ride my SL anymore and will sell it. I only realize it's 30 lbs when I'm trying to keep up with people on climbs, but that's not that important to me. The geometry, having the 36 on there, and the heavier build add up to being able to hurl and slide the thing around on the downs, carry more speed into rough stuff and just enjoy myself more. I don't go big enough to need it either (how big would one need to go do 'need' an HD?) but damn is it great to have it there. I could ride most everything I ride on the SL, but I'm glad I don't have to

    Were I trying to set strava records or race or something, maybe I'd choose an SLR, but since I'm about maximizing fun, HD feels like the bike for me. But I'm the guy who takes the HD on a 60 miler in Tahoe, not everyone's idea of a smart move.

    Strangely enough, we haven't swapped bikes yet, but I'm looking forward to doing so and I'll post something about it when we do.

    So, that's a long way of saying that it's personal preference, but perhaps more specifically, examine what the emphasis of your riding is, the terrain you inhabit, etc.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails HD vs SLR, currently riding SL-img_2655.jpg  


  6. #6
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    I am building my SLR at the moment and had an SL prior, I will post details once I get it built and spend some time riding it.

    As the above poster mentioned, do your race? Does your local terrarin warrant a beefier bike? Would the option of going from 140mm to 160mm be useful. Do you need to upgrade?

    My SL was too small and was more than enough bike for my local trails, I agnoised over the HD but felt it was too much bike, pretty keen to get the SLR going and see how it compares.

  7. #7
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    I'm currently in the process of switching from an SL-R to a HD 160 - just ordered the frame yesterday.

    The move was largely due to the fact that i'm finding myself riding more and more bike park type terrain, and i'm also set to move from Seattle to Vancouver, so wanted something a little more suited to Whistler.

    The SL-R is an awesome bike. I have mine setup like a mini-hd almost - went with a large frame, 50mm stem, dropper post etc.. I haven't weighed it, but with a mix of XT/XTR components i'm guessing it comes in at well under 30lbs. It destroys the uphill, to the point where i'm just waiting around for people - it's almost anti social. It really is like a XC race bike with just a touch more travel. Descending is super fun, but you need to pick your lines - whereas i've heard people describe the HD as point and shoot. It's a question of style - neither is better or worse in my book.

    I'd say if you tend to do longer 20 mile plus rides with a mix of ascending/decending then the SL-R is the way forward. If you tend to ride just a couple of hours here and there, with a focus on getting down then i'd go HD. Also, what do your friends ride? I wasn't joking when i said that the SL-R is anti social!

  8. #8
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    Don't forget about the HD140. You get the Slack Head Angled - Super Stiff HD Goodness in an epic trail friendly package that can be built down to 25-26lbs. Mine rides great with Stan's Arch Wheels and the Fox 150 Talus Fork. Get the Float instead as I never adjust the fork travel, or if you can wait, try the 34mm Xfusion Fork @ 150mm coming for 2013.
    Also, get a frame size that allows running a 50 mm stem, you will love it.

  9. #9
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    If the SLR is 90% as stiff as the HD and about 1.25 pounds lighter, what would be the advantage of the HD 140 apart from the option of converting to 160 travel? Anybody compared these two?

  10. #10
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    I'm about to pull the trigger on a Mojo HD (current SL rider). Think of the versatility:

    140mm travel, 26 inch wheels
    160mm travel, 26 inch wheels
    140mm travel, 650b wheels
    ~150mm travel (needs a topout shim), 650b wheels

    and that doesn't even include the fork options ranging from 140mm short travel all the way to 180mm long travel forks.

    Think about it, you could have a 140mm bike with 26' wheels/air shocks (~25lbs) or a long travel 650b/coil shocks bike (~30+ lbs) with the same frame!

    You can't do that with an SLR . . . .

    This also why I'm not getting a Nomad/Firebird/SB-66/etc.

  11. #11
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    I'm currently riding an HD and love it, but always wonder if I should have gotten a SL-R. I have a 140/180 TALAS and do most of my riding in 140 mode. But it sure is fun to rip it up in 180 mode when there is a Freeride trail.

    So 80% of the time I could be on a SL-R and 20% of the time the HD shines, but the SL-R probably would still manage. Almost need both bikes.

  12. #12
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    When I decided to switch from my Yeti to a Mojo, I demoed all 3 (SL SL-R & HD160) at an Ibis demo event - I was lucky that it was kind of crappy weather so very few people showed up and I basically got to ride all 3 of them all day.

    My observations:

    Climbing: All 3 climbed as well or better than my Yeti (ASR-5); the SL & SL-R felt like they climbed equally well, and both slightly better than the HD - it was hard to tell if that was from the weight, the geometry, or a combo

    Cornering: I felt that the HD cornered slightly better for me - this could have been due to the fact that I wasn't used to riding the Mojos yet, but the HD just felt like such a natural fit for me

    All 3 descended well, the SL-R felt slightly smoother than the SL, but the HD just felt like a bike that wanted to go downhill, totally blowing the other 2 away - I'll stipulate that I like a very plush feel and the feeling of being able to blast over everything if I wanted - the other 2 required you to actually look where you were going

    Outcome: I put in an order for an HD that day; if I didn't love blasting downhill as much as I do, I may consider an SL-R, but after that day I'm not really sure in what scenario I would still want to buy an SL, as awesome as that bike is

    One side note: I also demoed a SC Blur & Nomad; awesome bikes, but liked the Mojos better

  13. #13
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    I just buit a superwide use SL-R

    - XT buildkit
    - XTR shadow + der.
    - Fox Talas 32 130-150mm
    - Cane Creek Angleset (67,5° final)
    - Answer Protaper carbon 720mm
    - Hope hubs, Arch EX rims and 2.2/1.8/2.0 spokes (very stiff)

    11,26kg w/o pedals

    Is not a HD descending, but is surprisingly close.

  14. #14
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    Mike, Did you get to switch?

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    to the OP, you already have SL now. IMO, SL and SLR are not much different. You can get custom headset angleset to make your SL 67.5 degree, it feels like different bike. Mojo HD is 67 degree, so pretty close.
    IMO, If you want upgrade, then get the HD, because like other posters have mentioned, HD can be set to different bike with diff fork and shock.
    I personally dont like SLR BB with the press fit, I prefer regular BSA. Go get SLR if you want silver color, it looks rad..

  16. #16
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    Have to agree with inter. I agonized over the 3 and decided the SL suited me more. It's lighter, uses a BSA BB and accommodates 650b better than the SL-R. I'm not a huckster so the HD was a bit overkill for me. I had to take a step back and realized compared to my other non-IBIS option (SC TRc) the SL was very much still a contender.

  17. #17
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    I changed my sl HA a couple of weeks ago.

    The bike was allredy set with large bar, short stem and beefy tires.
    After changing the HA the bike feels like it shifted from xc-trail bike to an trail-am bike.

    If this is where you are heading i would also consider trying this modifications.
    Tal

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ramjm_2000 View Post
    Have to agree with inter. I agonized over the 3 and decided the SL suited me more. It's lighter, uses a BSA BB and accommodates 650b better than the SL-R. I'm not a huckster so the HD was a bit overkill for me. I had to take a step back and realized compared to my other non-IBIS option (SC TRc) the SL was very much still a contender.
    If you want a slacker, more relaxed ride then the HD is what you should get. I ride mine with a 180 Talas fork and do 50+ AM rides on it all the time. If I had it set up as a HD 140 or even a HD 160 with a 34 Float 160 and lighter parts it would be a fast XC Trail bike.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tal Kadouri View Post
    I changed my sl HA a couple of weeks ago.

    The bike was allredy set with large bar, short stem and beefy tires.
    After changing the HA the bike feels like it shifted from xc-trail bike to an trail-am bike.

    If this is where you are heading i would also consider trying this modifications.
    How did you do that? With the angleset headset? Does +/- 1° does the trick?

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boazchen View Post
    How did you do that? With the angleset headset? Does +/- 1° does the trick?
    Got a HAS -1.5 deg from Saar www.ofanaim.net
    There are a couple of threds here on the subject.

    I have a float 140 so i guess you can use a -1 deg change if you have a 150 fork.
    Last edited by Tal Kadouri; 03-31-2013 at 11:22 AM.
    Tal

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tal Kadouri View Post
    Got a HAS -1.5 deg from Saar www.ofanaim.net
    There are a couple of threds here on the subject.

    I have a float 140 so i guess you can use a -1 deg change if you have a 150 fork.
    Which headset would I need for the SL from that website? Are those the only way to slacken the angle on the SL? Ive read in previous posts that the angleset headsets suck and other companies dont make one to fit the SL? Ive wanted to slacken mine for a while.
    Last edited by trap121; 03-31-2013 at 05:51 PM.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by trap121 View Post
    Which headset would I need for the SL from that website? Are those the only way to slacken the angle on the SL? Ive read in previous posts that the angleset headsets suck and other companies dont make one to fit the SL? Ive wanted to slacken mine for a while.
    You can just email Saar, the guy at the website. Tell him about your bike. thats what I did. He may has some in stock, as he just finished with the production. I just got mine a week ago.

  23. #23
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    You can also use offset shock mounts from Proshock to achive the same results. Search ebay.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by trap121 View Post
    Which headset would I need for the SL from that website? Are those the only way to slacken the angle on the SL? Ive read in previous posts that the angleset headsets suck and other companies dont make one to fit the SL? Ive wanted to slacken mine for a while.
    you just use your current Head Set.

    Saar solution is very simple. there are cups at bottom and the top of the head tube that extends your head tube by about total of 15mm. both cups has the same opening for the head set as on the frame. the new openings are eccentric and not centered as on the frame.

    you need to have about 20 mm of free fork steerer to be able to use this solution.

    take a look here Reducing head angle on a Mojo SL
    Last edited by Tal Kadouri; 03-31-2013 at 11:38 PM.
    Tal

  25. #25
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    HD vs SLR, currently riding SL

    Would a -1 be noticeable or should I go with -1.5? I have a float 150 with a 2.35 Hans Dampf up front.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by canuck_tacoma View Post
    If you want a slacker, more relaxed ride then the HD is what you should get. I ride mine with a 180 Talas fork and do 50+ AM rides on it all the time. If I had it set up as a HD 140 or even a HD 160 with a 34 Float 160 and lighter parts it would be a fast XC Trail bike.
    I don't want a really slack set up, maybe 1 degree at most. My thoughts were you can slacken an SL or SL-R a small bit by you cant lighten the HD's frame (5 vs. 6.2lbs). If the SL-R were a biit more 650b freindly I may have gone that route (although I still like BSA better than PF30).

  27. #27
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    I would have goten a -1.5
    For my ride, it actualy improved the technical climbing capabilties, so i dont think it will have a negative effect on that aspect, if these is your concern.
    Tal

  28. #28
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    HD vs SLR, currently riding SL

    Quote Originally Posted by trap121 View Post
    Would a -1 be noticeable or should I go with -1.5? I have a float 150 with a 2.35 Hans Dampf up front.
    I have a SL-R with Talas 150/130 (2.2 in front, not 2.35) and have run 1* and 1.5* angleset. Currently run the angleset at 1* for tight trails and notice a significant change vs. no angleset. The handling definitely feels slacker at 1.5* angleset vs. 1* at speed. I'd guess you may want the 1.5* if looking for the slacker handling and would buy 1.5* first.
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  29. #29
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    HD vs SLR, currently riding SL

    I ordered my -1.5 from Saar and just got a "order shipped" email with install instructions.

    For you guys that are using his HAS on you bike....did you loctite the cups directly to your frame? According to the instructions, I should use loctite 609...I don't feel real comfortable with this. Although, I don't think I'll be swapping HA's or selling the bike...just wanted to get others input on this.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by trap121 View Post
    I ordered my -1.5 from Saar and just got a "order shipped" email with install instructions.

    For you guys that are using his HAS on you bike....did you loctite the cups directly to your frame? According to the instructions, I should use loctite 609...I don't feel real comfortable with this. Although, I don't think I'll be swapping HA's or selling the bike...just wanted to get others input on this.
    I just followed the instruction. Not sure if I put enough loctite, but so far the cups stay still. I think you still can remove the cup if you want.
    For top, I put loctite on frame and cup, for bottom, just the cup, because the loctite is pretty liquid, cant really put it on bottom of headtube, it will just drip, unless you put the frame upside down.
    You will like the new HA.

  31. #31
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    HD vs SLR, currently riding SL

    Just installed everything and there is a small amount of play in the top cup. Even after the fork is installed. It's pretty aggravating and noticeable.

    Anyone else experience this? I just got my fork back from push and really want to ride but not sure if the play will cause further damage???

  32. #32
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    I have no play on mine.

    does it comes from the cups or to headset?

    After several rides the bottom cup shifted a bit and I used a permanent locktite, because the frame is made of carbon I don't think it will fix it permanently, but I did not check - So far no movement or play.

    Contact Saar, I am sure he will give you a quick answer and hopefully an immediate solution.
    Tal

  33. #33
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    Finally I found the sweet spot for my SL-R! (with 150 Talas)

    The first day I rode it last year was on a downhill run, with my friend on his HD. We traded, I loved his and hated mine. My stem was too low and short, the handling was twitchy, and I was being thrown over the front. Then I rode my friend's HD- what a difference! It was calm at speed and I could stay balanced front/rear on steep descents.

    I would have sold it and bought an HD if it wasn't for my love of climbing the big climbs. So little by little, I've made adjustments, and it was worth the effort!

    First I got a longer stem with more rise (100mm with 17* rise. May go to 20*)
    Then I added a Works Components -1* headset. (much better, but not enough)
    I increased the dampening on the fork and run it a lot in the Trail mode.
    Now I have -1.5* (I can descend STEEP sections... even without lowering seat)
    It's very calm and composed at high speed!
    It climbs just as well on steep climbs.
    It still turns on a dime.
    VERY quick and nimble, very flickable in tight turns at any speed!
    It absolutely DOMINATES on the big climbs... feels like I'm cheating it's so easy!

    In Colorado, it handles like a dream on all trails in Eagle & Summit Counties in Colorado (except the most radical stuff you need a committed downhill bike for).

    Is there any negative to the handling still? Yes.
    When I try to ride More Fun in Loma, east to west, those big rocks do trip me up because the fork mushes out. If I lived there or always rode those conditions, I'd swap the fork for a 34 Talas... I've been told it's more progressive.

    I have a 2.4 Mountain King in the rear, and a 2.4 Nobby Nic (soft rubber version) in the front. I can't tell you how much fun this thing is now! Nothing climbs better than this bike. Nothing is more versatile for the Rocky Mountains, when you have humungous climbs and varied long descents. This bike ROCKS!

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