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  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Join Date
    Dec 2012

    HD Setup - 160 F and 140 R

    Hi All,

    I would like some advice on this setup if anyone has tried it or currently running it.

    I have a HD in 140 mode currently with a 140mm float on the front. Once I build up some more bike confidence I will upgrade to 160 mode for trails I ride with larger jumps etc. The new fork will be a 160mm also.

    I'm still running 26" and wont bother upgrading to 650B until I blow a rim, even then I'm not sure if ill make the change or not. I don't mind working a little harder on the way up.

    Changing the rear shock is not a complex job as I'm sure we are all aware, but I don't really feel like changing forks all the time. So I would rather keep the one fork on the bike all the time. Getting a Talas fork is an option but will running it in reduced travel cause damage if bottomed out?

    Not sure if then riding the bike in 140 mode will feel odd and make the bike stand up too easily if the fork is 160mm.

    Cheers for any help.


  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Once you switch it to 160, you probably won't even bother putting the rear back to 140. It pedals very well in 160 mode. Not worth the hassle IMO.

    Really, it will be personal preference which way you want to run it. You may like it 140/160...not something I would do. More like 140/150.

    Also, 650B wheels do not make it any easier to climb...they just roll over bumps a little easier at speed. You're not working harder with your 26inch wheels.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    As I had the shorter shock on my Mojo C, I ran mine 140R and 170F for a about a month and I really couldn't tell much difference with the 20mm less travel in the rear. However my 160r shock was an rp23 kashima and it was a piece of shit even with air spacers it was either to stiff or too easy too bottom out. The 140R shock was a much older rp23 which had been pushed and had a big hit kit installed (whatever that is) and made for a much better jumping shock.

    If you don't want to change your rear shock but are looking at getting a bigger fork I so go for it. Then latter on if you want to go bigger you can get the chips and 160R shock.

  4. #4
    Reputation: budgie's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    You could also try the new XFusion Slant. The DLA version has continuous travel adjust from 130-160mm, so you can fine tune on the fly. It's new enough that there probably aren't many reviews out there, but if it's anything like their other forks it will be outstanding.
    On heavy rotation: White Lung: Deep Fantasy

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation: hardboiled's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    I would disagree with the guys who say the bike climbs just as well when built up in 160/160 mode versus 150/140, but I don't think you get much benefit in terms of pedaling/climbing from running it in the 160/140 combo. I feel the biggest advantages of the shorter travel setup come from the substantially lighter front end and the steeper seat tube angle. you don't get either of those benefits without changing out the fork. if you're not racing or trying to hammer climbs, you might agree with the others that the difference in climbing isn't significant between short and long travel builds. it still climbs great in terms of efficiency, just not as fast. personally, I change out the fork and shock (and tires) pretty regularly, depending on how my racing calendar looks. I'm way faster on XC courses in short travel mode, and swapping forks has gotten to be pretty quick. still, I usually leave it in one configuration for a couple months at a time. I wouldn't want to switch back and forth every other weekend. the amount of range the bike has when you take it from a light, short travel build to a heavier longer travel build is amazing.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation: nightops's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    i have the talas 36 160/140 and i experiment with this sometimes. I like the lower bottom bracket feel of the bike in 140mm so that is where my rear is most of the time and i don't think i've ever bottomed it out. the front i keep at 140 rather than 160 because 160 feels a little slack for most of my trails and i have never bottomed it out at 140mm. The talas wont be damaged unless you bottom it out all the time and it is very hard to use the last 10-15mm of travel in these shocks. When i ride the bike in 160mm mode front and rear it feels a little high to me and doesnt give me that 'in the bike' feel. 160mm front is cool to have for steeper sections but for most trailriding i use 140 cause it just turns faster.

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