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  1. #1
    YTC
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    HD feels inactive in the steeps. Tech savvy question.

    I've been going down my steep/technical local trails that I have for years done on my 4-bar Ellsworth and I'm wondering if the suspension of the HD feels less active. It's intense braking and I'm noticing that the it feels a bit stiff and more importantly, the back tire is losing traction on the small roots and rocks in a way that never happened on my epiphany 5"). Should I expect that the dw link is going to be less active and if yes, is there anything I can do to get it to be more active?

  2. #2
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    I'm also a new HD 160 owner after over a year on a carbon nomad. I thought the nomad had good down hill braking, but the HD has more traction. It helps to get low and dig your heels in for traction. First few rides the HD felt stiff, but after some tunning I got it feeling perfect! The trick was to balance the suspension front and rear. Run the rear a min of 30% sag, I'm running alittle over 30%. No propedal and alot of rebound damping. You would think alot of sag would effect climbing, but it doesn't. Seriously thou the thing that would probably help most is to brake less and trust the HD. The HD likes to be riden fast and thats when the suspension really starts feeling at it's best!

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by YTC View Post
    I've been going down my steep/technical local trails that I have for years done on my 4-bar Ellsworth and I'm wondering if the suspension of the HD feels less active. It's intense braking and I'm noticing that the it feels a bit stiff and more importantly, the back tire is losing traction on the small roots and rocks in a way that never happened on my epiphany 5"). Should I expect that the dw link is going to be less active and if yes, is there anything I can do to get it to be more active?
    Rear shock tuning.
    The rear shock is going to determine a lot as far as ride and performance. It took me a long time to find the sweet spot on mine. I'm sure there are better than what I currently have, but I feel comfortable doing what I did to my rp-23. You may want a pro tune of the shock, a different shock or a tune of a different shock. This is the part that takes the most amount of time, but the beauty of the dw-link is that you can make the bike do whatever you like with different tunes and whatnot. The basic rp-23 valved for the HD is ok, but there are SO many things you will have to do to tune it correctly, and once you do, that bike is going to be awesome for your riding style.

  4. #4
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    Totally agree on getting the sag in the 30% - 40% range. Coming off of Specialized bikes I would never run that much sag due to the middle wallow that happens with that design. So when I first got my HD I did the same type of setup and felt the rear was to stiff, once I added more sag all was good and it didn't wallow in the middle like I was use to on Specialized. Climbing was still great as well.

  5. #5
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    The rear shock choice makes a ton of difference. If you've got the cash, ditch the RP23, and get a Monarch Plus. Run it at 30-35% sag as mentioned above. It'll really bring that bike to life. The truth is, it's hard to beat a horst link bike(ICT) for descending, but the Ibis comes close if you've got your **** dialed.
    Team Sanchez; "Always hittin the upper lip"

  6. #6
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    If you are going to run the RP23 one of the others was dead on. 30% sag and a lot of rebound damping. I have ridden the Monarch Plus RC3 and it is a night and day difference even after getting my RP23 dialed.

    BTW I used to ride an Epiphany and I have a feeling that you are not running enough sag right now. The HD kills it in every way.

  7. #7
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    What leverage ratio are you all running on the Monarch Rc3 for the HD?

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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iceman69 View Post
    What leverage ratio are you all running on the Monarch Rc3 for the HD?
    I sent an email to Ibis when I bought my HD frame with the same question. Hans answered back that a M/L tune- medium rebound light compression would be best, but that it's hard to find. 2nd best would be a L/L tune monarch plus. That was for my riding weight of around 185lbs.

  9. #9
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    I have pretty well tuned monarch shock (pushed) but if I'm brake dragging on steep rocky trails I do experience some rear stiffening. My buddy said his Sunday did this too. The axle path is better then a horst link, so it is about of a trade off. Bump eating vs. braking.

  10. #10
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    DW link rides high in its travel, especially if your weight is more forward from braking and going down steep DH.

    I'll repeat a few things people have already said

    1. Heals of feet dropped down. This transfers your weight to the pedals and weights the rearend keeping it more glued to the ground

    2. Sag should be about 30-35%

    3. The Shocks Air Sleeve needs a shim in it, the HD comes stock with a high volume air canister which does this bike a disservice for anything other than XC riding. Its hard to reduce sag to 35% when it bottoms out all the time. Putting a shim in the air can makes it not bottom out so hard.

    4. A click or two of rebound (slower) can help as well. If you're running you're rebound fast, for liveliness (not really needed with a dwlink IMO) then its gonna totally unload on you once you have your weight forward.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Chingon View Post
    If you've got the cash, ditch the RP23, and get a Monarch Plus. Run it at 30-35% sag as mentioned above. It'll really bring that bike to life.
    Finally pulled the trigger on this. I totally agree.

  12. #12
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    Using Fox RP 23 with the Shim Kit and 30% sag. Very Happy

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by pmanfred View Post
    Using Fox RP 23 with the Shim Kit and 30% sag. Very Happy
    Lighter guys seem to like the RP23.

  14. #14
    YTC
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    Who installs the shim kit?

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by YTC View Post
    Who installs the shim kit?
    You.

    Tech Tuesday - How to Install a Fox Float Air-Volume Spacer - Pinkbike

  16. #16
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    Which size shim have you guys been running?

  17. #17
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    Started with the large shim now I'm on the middle shim with no bottom out issues.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Murchman View Post
    Started with the large shim now I'm on the middle shim with no bottom out issues.
    Murchman how much do you weigh? I am gonna try the small spacer as the mediums are sold out from Fox at present. M

    Super Unknown

  19. #19
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    226lbs 6"2 when I ordered my shim kit it came with 3 size shims (small/med/large)

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Murchman View Post
    226lbs 6"2 when I ordered my shim kit it came with 3 size shims (small/med/large)
    Ok then I should be fine with a small shim since I weigh only about 150 lbs.
    Hard to believe I bottom uot the shock at 25 % sag on a 2-3 foot drop.
    hopefully the small shim will fix this. M

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  21. #21
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    Just curious but how are you measuring your bottom out?

  22. #22
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    the rubber o-ring indicator is my only indication of bottoming out. M

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  23. #23
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    How far down is it going?

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Murchman View Post
    How far down is it going?
    If you bottom out your shock, the o-ring will be pushed off the shaft.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by fuenstock View Post
    If you bottom out your shock, the o-ring will be pushed off the shaft.
    Not on an HD. The o ring will stop a couple mm from the end. Let all the air out of the shock and compress it fully, it doesn't go to the end. Mine stops in the middle of the kashima logo. Confused the heck of out me until I found this out. I was bottoming out but just didn't realise.

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