Results 1 to 45 of 45
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    190

    Enduro fork for a HD

    So...i have been running a 140/180 talas on my HD, and my riding is changing...i have entered a local enduro series, that has a decent amount of short sharp climbing in it, and so will need a fork with a platform in it...
    Have tried other brands and always come back to fox. I weigh 175 pounds geared up...i am looking at running the hd at 650b with the rear shimmed to 155
    I am looking at one of two options...
    Fox 34 160 with a remote
    Fox 32 150 with terralogic
    I have ridden terralogic before and dig it, the reality is that in a race I dont have time often to use the fork remote whilst using the seatpost remote etc. downside on the 32 at 150 is that it may get noodly in techy rock sections...not sure if 650 will fit inside the 32 150 fork either...
    Opinions? Thoughts?

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    170
    Rock Shox Pike!

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    190
    Quote Originally Posted by marcoton21 View Post
    Rock Shox Pike!
    Yeah...looked at that but really need efficency...pike has no platform and no remote lockout so no go...i am an trackie who puts some torque down

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    170
    Well, the Pike is too plain, you're rigth.

    Just I hate these Fox Gadgets that funktion somewhat but make their forks so unresponsive going down.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    267
    Have you looked into the Bos Deville? That's got a platform nowadays and WAY outperforms the Fox on the downhills.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Dibbs_'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    1,059
    x-fusion??

  7. #7
    Mtb Guide
    Reputation: Maverick005's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    1,023
    No platform, HELLO!

    Enduro does not sound like ypure riding Enduros!



    A comeback has never been so amazing. After taking a few years off, PIKE comes back in the RockShox lineup, as the ultimate trail fork. Your trail could be a silky smooth ribbon of singletrack, or a rock-infested goat trail in the Alps. Either way, there is a PIKE for you. All wheel sizes, with 26”, 27.5” and 29” options, and 160mm and 150mm travel models, plus a 140mm version for the 29” platform. The RCT3 damper is available in either Dual Position Air or a Solo Air version to complete the offering.


    Specifications for Pike RCT3
    Travel 26”/27.5” – 150mm, 160mm; 29” – 140mm, 150mm
    Wheels 26", 27.5", 29"
    Weight 26” – 1835g (4.05 lb), 27.5” – 1861g (4.10 lb), 29” – 1876g (4.14 lb)
    Available Springs Dual Position Air, Solo Air
    Adjustments External rebound, low speed compression, 3-position compression (Open/Pedal/Lock)
    Steerer Tapered Aluminum
    Crown Forged, hollow 7075 Aluminum
    Lowers Magnesium, disc only
    Maximum Rotor Size 200mm
    Color Options Black, White
    Other WHEEL SIZE: 26”, 27.5”, 29”, AXLE: Maxle Lite 15mm, *Weight based on 265mm tapered aluminum steerer, Solo Air

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    13
    Yea, Pike is your best bet for long travel, smooth fork at a reasonable weight. I'm thinking of replacing my Lyrik with it.

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    190
    Kinda wanted an adaptable platform, hence the remote or terralogic...
    Any thoughts on these?

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Salespunk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    4,970
    For the love of all that is right and good in the world, please do not put a terralogic/remote fork on an HD. Just saying....

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    190
    Quote Originally Posted by Salespunk View Post
    For the love of all that is right and good in the world, please do not put a terralogic/remote fork on an HD. Just saying....
    Ummmmm why?!

  12. #12
    Mtb Guide
    Reputation: Maverick005's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    1,023
    Gonna give XFusion a go, Vector HLR dw tune 8.5x2.5, Vengence HLR air @ 160, screw wheel size Im going big legs.

    Gotta rebuild front wheel dam it to go 20mm, Rock shox would be way cheaper no wheel rebuild or hub needed, but! self serviceability, something different, low and high speed compression and reviews just makes me want to give them a try.

    Feel the fear do it anyway right, decision made after I hit my 5m gap jump today, not that I need more travel for that its so smooth if ya make the tranny which I do, funny thing is my Fox I seem to have finally got it to where its not too bad, just feel it could be way better though, plus I need that punch to send the 650b & 29ers into the bushes when they follow me down the trail

    Yeah terra-logic WTH, sounds like your terrain or Enduros are Ripley ripe not HD, just saying.

    I contemplated this on my ride today!

    Never have we had the technology, skills that we have today, yet our trails and trail networks have never been easier!

    I saw the end of another great single track today ruined by the upgrade a digger did, I shake my head at the death of such trails, raped and pillaged.

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    190
    Great....thanks for those coherent, well thought out and analytical replies...
    Anyway-we all make compromises to achieve an all round machine, weight vs grip vs durability vs cost etc etc
    Despite some of those addled recent replies I am after genuine opinions on which technique of platform would be better, will the 32 legs be too flexy at my weight, and if not will the 650 wheels fit...
    If so is the new incarnation of the 34 fork with remote a good option, after real world opinion not a a one line opinion or a post ride diatribe...
    Just sayin...

  14. #14
    Mtb Guide
    Reputation: Maverick005's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    1,023
    Get the 32,

    Ah cant be bothered enjoy!

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    1,032
    I'm going from the 180 Talas to a 34 Float 160 CTD....saves a pound, and has lockout, etc. Have the same reasons, do more aggressive AM than Freeride and find the 180 to be overkill for most situations. Though it is nice that 5% of the time

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Salespunk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    4,970
    To answer your question, platform/lockout forks inherently have more stiction and subsequently do not work as well. The HD is designed to be efficient going up and down without any need for platforms, lockouts, etc. A platform may be helpful for XC style racing, but your descending will suffer significantly in an Enduro. I recently ran a 34 Talas CTD back to back with a Pike and I can tell that the Pike was SIGNIFICANTLY better on the descent even with a lot of pedaling. The Fox was very harsh in the midstroke because of the extra seals required. There was more than 45 seconds difference over a 5 minute descent because the front tire could not find any grip and was skipping across the top of everything.

    A lot of the fork movement you see comes from poor pedaling form and not the need for a lockout. If you focus on pedaling circles instead of squares you will see virtually no bob front or rear. This was pointed out today while riding with a friend up a very steep paved climb. He commented that my Lyrik 170 was not moving at all while his Revelation 140 looked like a pogo stick. Both of us were out of the saddle grinding and riding side by side. It is important to note that I run my fork wide open in the softest low speed/high speed/rebound settings while he runs significantly more rebound and compression damping which should have made it more stable during the climb.

    Hopefully this helps with your decision. If you can find it in your area, Rockshox does a demo van tour where they will mount up different forks on your bike so you can get an idea of the differences. Personally having ridden a 36 Float, 34 Float, 34 Talas, Lyrik and Pike I would go Pike unless you really want the extra adjustability of the Lyrik RC2DH damper. The Fox 32/34 will mess with the geometry of your bike since they are shorter overall at 535/525 at 160/150 vs. the 545 of the Float/Lyrik at 160 which is what the bike was designed around. The Pike comes in a 542 so is within the margin of error. In our local Enduro last week not one rider on the podium in Pro or Expert was running travel adjust, lockout or terralogic. Just my $.02, but I have ridden a lot of configs on this bike.

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Salespunk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    4,970
    Quote Originally Posted by Maverick005 View Post
    Gonna give XFusion a go, Vector HLR dw tune 8.5x2.5, Vengence HLR air @ 160, screw wheel size Im going big legs.

    Gotta rebuild front wheel dam it to go 20mm, Rock shox would be way cheaper no wheel rebuild or hub needed, but! self serviceability, something different, low and high speed compression and reviews just makes me want to give them a try.

    Feel the fear do it anyway right, decision made after I hit my 5m gap jump today, not that I need more travel for that its so smooth if ya make the tranny which I do, funny thing is my Fox I seem to have finally got it to where its not too bad, just feel it could be way better though, plus I need that punch to send the 650b & 29ers into the bushes when they follow me down the trail

    Yeah terra-logic WTH, sounds like your terrain or Enduros are Ripley ripe not HD, just saying.

    I contemplated this on my ride today!

    Never have we had the technology, skills that we have today, yet our trails and trail networks have never been easier!

    I saw the end of another great single track today ruined by the upgrade a digger did, I shake my head at the death of such trails, raped and pillaged.
    Getting your Fox to "not too bad" is much different from "Wow this is the best fork I have ever ridden!" You will love the Vengance and I found that the Pike rode very similar.

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    190
    Thanks salespunk, really appreciate that feedback...
    Exactly what I was looking for...
    Having been a national level track rider I am certainly aware of pedalling style, however Perhaps because of this background I put a lot of power through the front...
    What about a float with a lockout?

  19. #19
    mountain biker
    Reputation: slyfink's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    529
    Salespunk, are you comparing the 2014 Pike to the 2014 lineup from Fox? I'm curious about Fox's 'new' Talas, with it's supposed better midstroke support and fewer seals. In fact, I'm shopping around for a new fork now, and I've narrowed it down to the Lyrik RC2DH or 2014 36 Talas RC2. If Fox hadn't updated the internals, there would be no contest: the Lyrik would have won hands down. Also, the introduction of the new Pike makes me wonder if the same damping system will be released to the Lyrik soon too.

    To the OP: check out the 2014 line of shocks from Fox. Not only for the aforementionned reasons, but also the 'climb' mode of CTD now is essentially a lockout. the 'trail' mode has three positions to better suit your style and preferences. I would also add that it seems that Enduro races are not won on the pedaling sections, but rather on the DH sections. In your position, I would prioritize DH control and speed over pedalling performance for the fork.
    continuous growth is the strategy of a cancer cell.

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    1,032
    Will be getting my 34 Float installed in the next few days...will report back the difference between it and the 180 Talas. Give me a week and I should have a few good rides in.

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Salespunk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    4,970
    Quote Originally Posted by ianthom View Post
    Thanks salespunk, really appreciate that feedback...
    Exactly what I was looking for...
    Having been a national level track rider I am certainly aware of pedalling style, however Perhaps because of this background I put a lot of power through the front...
    What about a float with a lockout?
    Probably your best option. The biggest issue I can see is actually trying to use the lockout during a race. The courses here are rough so reaching down to change it would be impossible. In addition you would lose a few seconds because you wouldn't be out of the saddle pushing.

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Salespunk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    4,970
    Quote Originally Posted by slyfink View Post
    Salespunk, are you comparing the 2014 Pike to the 2014 lineup from Fox? I'm curious about Fox's 'new' Talas, with it's supposed better midstroke support and fewer seals. In fact, I'm shopping around for a new fork now, and I've narrowed it down to the Lyrik RC2DH or 2014 36 Talas RC2. If Fox hadn't updated the internals, there would be no contest: the Lyrik would have won hands down. Also, the introduction of the new Pike makes me wonder if the same damping system will be released to the Lyrik soon too.

    To the OP: check out the 2014 line of shocks from Fox. Not only for the aforementionned reasons, but also the 'climb' mode of CTD now is essentially a lockout. the 'trail' mode has three positions to better suit your style and preferences. I would also add that it seems that Enduro races are not won on the pedaling sections, but rather on the DH sections. In your position, I would prioritize DH control and speed over pedalling performance for the fork.
    No, 2014 to 2013 since I have not had access yet to the 2014 Fox line. What makes the Pike so stellar in my opinion is that you are getting the performance of the Lyrik with a DH cartridge, but significantly lighter. What you lose is fine tuning of the compression characteristics. The damper on the Pike is similar to the FIT cartridges from Fox, just much better executed. In addition they have added a new feature that keeps the fork higher in the travel.

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    190
    Quote Originally Posted by canuck_tacoma View Post
    Will be getting my 34 Float installed in the next few days...will report back the difference between it and the 180 Talas. Give me a week and I should have a few good rides in.
    Thanks, that would be great!

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation: sdemars's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    547
    Quote Originally Posted by Salespunk View Post
    I run my fork wide open in the softest low speed/high speed/rebound settings

    ...the extra adjustability of the Lyrik RC2DH damper.
    Good to know I'm not the only one running this wide open. Granted I've only had this rig running for less than 2 weeks, but I've had a couple good trail rides and about 6 sessions at the bike park including slope style lines. With 8 lbs under suggested pressure I don't use full travel on the fork.

    Compare that to the 2013 Fox CTD shock where I bottom out unless I have about 10# over recommended PSI on the rear. WTF? Oh and those three settings (CT&D)? Don't. Do. Squat. No perceptible difference.
    Overland : Hayduke : Hightower : Delirium : Piolet

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Salespunk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    4,970
    I am running 47 PSI for 195 lb rider weight with gear. This gives me about 25% sag and seems perfect. I do get full travel on big drops, but for most rides I have 1-1.5" of travel unused. I never believe the recommendations on air pressure.

  26. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    1,032
    Better to have control than full travel IMO.

  27. #27
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Salespunk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    4,970
    The new Fox spring curves should be interesting. in 2012 you could not get full travel even on 8' drops with really low air pressure. For 2013 it was the exact opposite, but that should have easily been solved by reducing the volume of the air chamber.

    I think that Fox had the right idea by setting them up soft and letting people tune them, but shops did not do a good job of selling the value to their customers. Shame on them since it would have been a reason to shop locally as well as good service revenue as well.

  28. #28
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    156
    Well I have the 2012 TALAS 36 RLC in my HD 160 now, I never used the "lock" setting in any climbing, I fell that the bike doesn´t have front grip, instead I use a looooot the travel adjustment and my own opinion the 160-120mm is the best in all the generations of this fork (I owned all of them). This year I will change to the 2014 RC2 which is the best Fox fork for adjustment instead of the RLC without HI and Low speed compression. Fox sacrificed the RC2 setting instead wit a "Lock" feature in the last years like in the 32 Series. And I liked the 34 TALAS also but I will not change to 15mm axle, It doesn´t give me confidence against the 20mm axle with a beefy and rigid front.

  29. #29
    Whatever
    Reputation: MINImtnbiker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    562
    Quote Originally Posted by ianthom View Post
    Thanks salespunk, really appreciate that feedback...
    Exactly what I was looking for...
    Having been a national level track rider I am certainly aware of pedalling style, however Perhaps because of this background I put a lot of power through the front...
    What about a float with a lockout?
    I'm also a trackie (now in 40s) but was a 1:05 kilo guy 20 years ago...and have to start training now since Erie, CO gets our track in 1-2 months!

    I also ride a singlespeed...and agree with salespunk about riding style. I stand on any climb that gets steep, on both my HD and my singlespeed. Probably from riding track and from the singlespeed teaching me to, I also put a lot of upper body into climbing. On my HD, I have a Totem 180 and also run it wide open low speed compression and fairly soft on high speed. It doesn't pogo as I have learned to be smooth with it, and that helps me climb technical stuff better.

    I don't ever use the lockout on my singlespeed's Revelation XX, not even on fire road climbs (which I hate and try to avoid).

    Today my 140 Pike 29er arrives... and my Ripley frame and kit arrive next week. I'll report back in a week or so :-)
    just ride

  30. #30
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    1,032
    I stand and hammer with my 180 Talas all the time and have RC2 set around mid point. I can control it with preloading the front end and using my body; but it does use up energy that can be missed later on in the ride.

  31. #31
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    1,032
    Well I ended up with a 2014 34 Float CTD Adjust and have to say I am quite happy with it. I had a 36 Float 160, a 36 Talas 180 and I think the 34 is my favorite.

    I was a little concerned buying it because of the negative reaction people were having towards last years. Without riding a 2013 I can't really comment on the difference; but there seems to be enough dampening in Descend mode and I am running Trail with 2 out of 3 clicks.


    •Running around 10PSI more than recommended for my weight of 190 pounds.
    •Notice the weight savings.
    •Really like the A2C on my HD.
    •Stifness is right up there with the 36 until you really push it.
    •It's not as plush on large jumps as the RC2 but very capable.
    •Match's the rear suspension nicely.
    •Lockout is quite handy.
    •Seems to be easier to flick around corners and jumps.


    It's a good option for someone who wants to make their HD a very capable all rounder with a strong climbing ability.

  32. #32
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    156
    I was tempted to go with the 34, but when I saw the 15mm axle I said "wrong!!!", I has been running the 36 TALAS since the V1.0, I complained when they changed from RC2 to RLC, the HI_LO compression setting made that fork almost perfect, but Fox came with the idea that the 36's riders need a Lockout setting like the little brother 32. The 36s riders are totally different riders and maybe the 34 could fit us to reduce the weight in the front but again, one mistake, they did it in 15mm axle, so for me I will choose the revamped 36 TALAS RC2 the best fork for my style, even if it is a little heavy in my front.

  33. #33
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    1,032
    Coming off two 36 forks with a 20mm axle......I really don't feel a difference.

    The little I do is so small that it doesn't take away from the other benefits....such as crushing climbs!!

  34. #34
    Mtb Guide
    Reputation: Maverick005's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    1,023
    Quote Originally Posted by fabricio fracchia View Post
    I was tempted to go with the 34, but when I saw the 15mm axle I said "wrong!!!", I has been running the 36 TALAS since the V1.0, I complained when they changed from RC2 to RLC, the HI_LO compression setting made that fork almost perfect, but Fox came with the idea that the 36's riders need a Lockout setting like the little brother 32. The 36s riders are totally different riders and maybe the 34 could fit us to reduce the weight in the front but again, one mistake, they did it in 15mm axle, so for me I will choose the revamped 36 TALAS RC2 the best fork for my style, even if it is a little heavy in my front.
    I was very critical of the 15mm std when it came out, but if you cant beat em join em, I finally subjugated.

    That said Im the opposite of Canuck,I cant wait to get back on 20mm!

    Not because I can feel a noticeable difference, but in rough sections definitely think for a bigger guy, on harder terrain and maybe dependant on how you charge in corners especially affects stability at speed, slight but noticeable back to back, I plan to put this to the test more in coming weeks.

    As for climbing, don't buy it, if you build a conversely similar wheel apples for apples there's not allot of weight difference, the rear wheel has more of a placebo affect than the front, try this running a bigger front tire you don't notice it, but you will if you try the same thing on the rear, like forks you notice a huge difference in cornering, stability, traction which outweighs any perception of weight gain.

    I ride with some other HD riders, they ran 160mode 36 vans shitty heavy wheels similar fitness yet ride up hill as well as I do and one dude rides flats and 5:10s, Im technically better than him, take better lines, out jump him, yet Im on the edge chasing him down trails where he is quite comfortable. Plus he's beat me in every Enduro so far

    Must beat him next time, got to love friendly friends rivalry, old Lion & skill vs younger Lion, only by about 6 years still cant have younger dude whipping butt, he will go down!

  35. #35
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    1,032
    Did you read what I wrote? I'm coming off a 36 180, it doesn't get any stiffer than that for single crown.

    At 190pounds I'm no feather weight, run Formulas with a 203 rotor...trust me when I say I hammer on this bike.

    I just did two back to back days, each with over 50km's and lots of climbing and descending. I don't work for Fox so I'm not going to waste too much energy debating this....just hate to see someone miss out on a Fork that is such a great match for this bike.

    After today's ride I'm still standing by my opinion: This 34 Float is wicked fast on the HD...both up and down.

  36. #36
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    1,032
    Hmm...my previous post seems a little angry, best to wait until after my post ride meal before I start writing.

  37. #37
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Salespunk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    4,970
    Canuck_Tacoma, understand your opinion and I can understand it. I think it depends on the type of riding you really do. I LOVE my HA at 66 degrees with the Lyrik 170 and would be bummed to ride at 68 now. Another riding buddy on an HD went from a 160 Float to a 34 and loves it. Different strokes for different folks. It all comes down to personal opinion.

  38. #38
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    1,032
    For sure...

    It took me 3 Forks and more money than I care to think about to figure it out.

  39. #39
    Mtb Guide
    Reputation: Maverick005's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    1,023
    Quote Originally Posted by canuck_tacoma View Post
    Did you read what I wrote? I'm coming off a 36 180, it doesn't get any stiffer than that for single crown.

    At 190pounds I'm no feather weight, run Formulas with a 203 rotor...trust me when I say I hammer on this bike.

    I just did two back to back days, each with over 50km's and lots of climbing and descending. I don't work for Fox so I'm not going to waste too much energy debating this....just hate to see someone miss out on a Fork that is such a great match for this bike.

    After today's ride I'm still standing by my opinion: This 34 Float is wicked fast on the HD...both up and down.
    Is this aimed @ me, if so yep did read your post first, but I was going along with comments from Fabrico!

    I wasn't trying to CB you, ,sorry mate, no offence.

    Just offering another point of view, I was not trying to say to you or anyone on here doesn't ride hard enough.

    Ive been on my Float 34 and Chris King 15mm hub for 18months, Ive run 20mm std since god only knows, even had Lefty thru axle hubs in 90s they are stiff as a stiff thing.

    I was also not saying that 15mm is bad or is not stiff, but give it time, maybe with the improved dampening it makes a bit of a difference, but even the top guys are asking for 20mm options for they're 34s and especially in 650b.

    Now Im no Fabian, but he has stated a number of times that the new forks with 15mm std are not stiff enough for Enduro, and he's aimed that at Fox subtle like and they're his sponsor, not bagging it but people have agendas in certain areas of the industry, I will run both stds cause I can, but I have always preferred 20mm std and still do and that wont change its better period.

    The 34 is a great chassis and perfect for that 130-150 area, I still believe 35/36mm is best at 160 above.

    Im not surprised at your findings at all they mirror what I said 18months ago, but to me they're is 3 stages of testing, initial excitement phase and feeling of something new change always feels good, then as you bed into a product and adjust for performance changes you find out more about said product, then 3rd phase is the time period, how has it performed over time on familiar trails racing etc 2nd and especially 3rd phase is when you really find out about a product and if it matches the 1st phase or betters it.

    Why I wanted fact based info rather than opinion a few weeks back on inital reports of the HDR, I wasn't anti but people miss apples for apples comparisons allot I find and you get subjective findings, don't get riled up, not suggesting you did this.

    Recent examples for me would be XX1 and my HD, both have met the first phase and exceeded the 2nd and on track for the 3rd phase.

    Then the 34 it ticked all the boxes in 1st phase as did the 15mm std
    Fork went south on 2nd and really south on 3rd phase!

    Hub 15mm std has not let me down, I just feel I can get more from a 20mm hubs and fork than a 15mm for me @ 160mm travel.

    I used the tire analogy for this reason, Ive owned ridden allot of forks on the market, from most manufactures except XFusion tick that box!

    I didn't take your reply as angry its just a internet interpretation, Im not quick to judge, like products I give them a long time to prove my experience wrong, always learning.

    Only thing Id add is a drop in 20mm makes a big difference to a bikes feel, you've changed allot of things at once, so it will feel different great or otherwise, when I went from a 170mm fork to a Van 36 I couldn't believe the difference of that bike, still one of the best all round bikes Ive ever owned and specced setup wise, but it was good at 170mm but great @160 for ME! 20mm on both forks.

    Im sceptical on Fox now even if I can replace the damper it will likely cost an arm and a leg here, Fox products here are the most expensive and the lest friendly to self service and tune and that puts me off.

    Anyway peace brother, enjoy keep posting your thoughts on how it progresses, it will be interesting to see what happens next, I think you will find some 20mm options coming down the pipe line soon, too many top level racers are asking for it.

  40. #40
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    1,032
    Quote Originally Posted by Maverick005 View Post
    Is this aimed @ me, if so yep did read your post first, but I was going along with comments from Fabrico!

    I wasn't trying to CB you, ,sorry mate, no offence.

    Just offering another point of view, I was not trying to say to you or anyone on here doesn't ride hard enough.

    Ive been on my Float 34 and Chris King 15mm hub for 18months, Ive run 20mm std since god only knows, even had Lefty thru axle hubs in 90s they are stiff as a stiff thing.

    I was also not saying that 15mm is bad or is not stiff, but give it time, maybe with the improved dampening it makes a bit of a difference, but even the top guys are asking for 20mm options for they're 34s and especially in 650b.

    Now Im no Fabian, but he has stated a number of times that the new forks with 15mm std are not stiff enough for Enduro, and he's aimed that at Fox subtle like and they're his sponsor, not bagging it but people have agendas in certain areas of the industry, I will run both stds cause I can, but I have always preferred 20mm std and still do and that wont change its better period.

    The 34 is a great chassis and perfect for that 130-150 area, I still believe 35/36mm is best at 160 above.

    Im not surprised at your findings at all they mirror what I said 18months ago, but to me they're is 3 stages of testing, initial excitement phase and feeling of something new change always feels good, then as you bed into a product and adjust for performance changes you find out more about said product, then 3rd phase is the time period, how has it performed over time on familiar trails racing etc 2nd and especially 3rd phase is when you really find out about a product and if it matches the 1st phase or betters it.

    Why I wanted fact based info rather than opinion a few weeks back on inital reports of the HDR, I wasn't anti but people miss apples for apples comparisons allot I find and you get subjective findings, don't get riled up, not suggesting you did this.

    Recent examples for me would be XX1 and my HD, both have met the first phase and exceeded the 2nd and on track for the 3rd phase.

    Then the 34 it ticked all the boxes in 1st phase as did the 15mm std
    Fork went south on 2nd and really south on 3rd phase!

    Hub 15mm std has not let me down, I just feel I can get more from a 20mm hubs and fork than a 15mm for me @ 160mm travel.

    I used the tire analogy for this reason, Ive owned ridden allot of forks on the market, from most manufactures except XFusion tick that box!

    I didn't take your reply as angry its just a internet interpretation, Im not quick to judge, like products I give them a long time to prove my experience wrong, always learning.

    Only thing Id add is a drop in 20mm makes a big difference to a bikes feel, you've changed allot of things at once, so it will feel different great or otherwise, when I went from a 170mm fork to a Van 36 I couldn't believe the difference of that bike, still one of the best all round bikes Ive ever owned and specced setup wise, but it was good at 170mm but great @160 for ME! 20mm on both forks.

    Im sceptical on Fox now even if I can replace the damper it will likely cost an arm and a leg here, Fox products here are the most expensive and the lest friendly to self service and tune and that puts me off.

    Anyway peace brother, enjoy keep posting your thoughts on how it progresses, it will be interesting to see what happens next, I think you will find some 20mm options coming down the pipe line soon, too many top level racers are asking for it.
    All good points especially about the 3 stages of testing....

    I can't argue the 20mm 36 is going to be stiffer, but for the sake of weight the 15mm 34 is a fair trade off.

    From what I have read the 15mm axle is not that far behind the 20mm for stiffness. I believe most people are feeling the flex in the fork; is going to a 20mm axel on the 34 make enough of a difference?

    The person who originally started this Thread, ianthom, is looking for a lighter, more pedal friendly fork for his bike. The 34 Float fits that request. If I was racing with it, the remote would be worth it as the lock out is great to hit on the climbs.

  41. #41
    Mtb Guide
    Reputation: Maverick005's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    1,023
    Quote Originally Posted by canuck_tacoma View Post
    All good points especially about the 3 stages of testing....

    I can't argue the 20mm 36 is going to be stiffer, but for the sake of weight the 15mm 34 is a fair trade off.

    From what I have read the 15mm axle is not that far behind the 20mm for stiffness. I believe most people are feeling the flex in the fork; is going to a 20mm axel on the 34 make enough of a difference?

    The person who originally started this Thread, ianthom, is looking for a lighter, more pedal friendly fork for his bike. The 34 Float fits that request. If I was racing with it, the remote would be worth it as the lock out is great to hit on the climbs.
    All good dude, not a remote fan, but looking at US Enduro courses I can see why people may want it.

  42. #42
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    190
    So....I just got a cracking deal on a fox 34 float...
    I will let you guys know how I go! Thanks SO much for all the
    Help and advice, now the next question? Will it fit a 650 wheel

  43. #43
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    1,032
    Quote Originally Posted by ianthom View Post
    So....I just got a cracking deal on a fox 34 float...
    I will let you guys know how I go! Thanks SO much for all the
    Help and advice, now the next question? Will it fit a 650 wheel
    Is it a 2014?

  44. #44
    The MTB Lab
    Reputation: pastajet's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    2,429
    Been riding the 2014 TALAS 34 140 29er on my Ripley, and I must say that the new CTD is much better than last years, and the new TALAS is very invisible, and dare I say, very FLOAT like.

  45. #45
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    1,032
    Just did a gnarly rocky, mud infested, hammerfest, and the 34 Float performed very well. Still quite happy with it. Really notice the weight savings on the short bursty steep climbs and the lockout is so nice for the road commutes to the trail.

Similar Threads

  1. Enduro Fork Seals
    By crazyjeys in forum Shocks and Suspension
    Replies: 355
    Last Post: 08-24-2016, 12:12 PM
  2. Enduro Fork Seals - Installation
    By ts8169 in forum Shocks and Suspension
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 03-15-2013, 07:03 AM
  3. Enduro Fork seals
    By madriaanse in forum Downhill - Freeride
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 01-26-2013, 05:30 AM
  4. 2010+ enduro with a 180 fork??
    By FlyingIrish in forum Specialized
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 12-07-2011, 11:29 PM
  5. new fox fork for 2002 enduro pro?
    By ace008 in forum Shocks and Suspension
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 01-31-2011, 01:05 AM

Members who have read this thread: 0

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •