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Thread: Creaking Ripley

  1. #1
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    Creaking Ripley

    Just curious how many new Ripley owners are experiencing a creaking noise when pedaling hard. Mine started creaking one hour into my first ride and i have not been able to pinpoint it yet. I took the top link apart and regreased the pivots but i didnt help. Im running an xtr 2x10 drivetrain with a shimano BB I'm hoping it's something simple and not an uncurable issue because it sure does take away from an otherwise stellar bike.
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    I had the creak within the first two weeks.
    It was coming from the area where the shock is mounted. The lower mount where two vertical mounting hardware bolts hold the shock.
    Took it apart and re-greased everything and it solve the problem.

  3. #3
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    Mine had a slight bit of play between the upper shock mounts. If I held the top tube and pulled on the shock it would move a tiny amount, but would cause a creak. Luckily a pedal washer was the exact right thickness and diameter to fix the problem.....

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    I'm having the same issue. Very creaky and also had a lot of play at the lower shock mount. Tightened the bolts as hard as I could without stripping them but there is still a very small amount of play, enough to cause the creak. Still searching for a remedy, some sort of thin washer or spacer. Pedal washer sounds good but I don't have any

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    Just a note to be aware that the new style Fox bushings do have a small amount of lateral movement built in even when everything is tight. Grease should quiet things down if there is a noise coming from that area though.

    H
    Quote Originally Posted by unclekittykiller View Post
    I'm having the same issue. Very creaky and also had a lot of play at the lower shock mount. Tightened the bolts as hard as I could without stripping them but there is still a very small amount of play, enough to cause the creak. Still searching for a remedy, some sort of thin washer or spacer. Pedal washer sounds good but I don't have any

  6. #6
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    My play is coming from the lower shock mount like alwayslivingthedream mentioned. there is no play in the upper mount with the new fox bushing, even though it's now housing a Monarch. the play seems like it's being caused by the two vertical screw halves bottoming before they can fully clamp the shock eye tight into the clevis.

  7. #7
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    On my last ride i discovered that my shifter cables were migrating into the head tube a tiny bit every time i turned the handlebars until eventually there was no more slack in the cables where they exit the head tube as well as that movement was causing some of the noises i was hearing while i was riding. To hopefully cure the problem i put a small cable tie around the cables individually on the outside of the headtube to keep them from sliding back into the holes on their own. Its seems to be working and the cables are making a lot less noise than before. Hopefully my next ride will be a quieter one.
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    I was having a terrible creaking a week into my new ride. I checked everything and thought it was the cables. They checked out fine. This morning I pulled the rear wheel off and to my surprise the Maxle was bone dry and the drive side cone fell off into my hand along with the cassette free hub body! So I tightened it all up and greased the Maxle and BAM quiet again! Make sure and check the wheels out as it sounded like shock bolts or the bottom bracket to me and it was just noise transferring from the rear of the bike through the carbon.

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    I also developed some creaks after a few rides. In my case, it was a combination of seat rails and bottom bracket. I cleaned the seat rails and seat post clamp, put a little grease on the rails, and reassembled. I pulled the crankset out, cleaned up the bottom bracket, checked the chainring bolts, greased everything, and reassembled. The creaking is gone. For now, at least.

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    Quote Originally Posted by n8ballTX View Post
    I was having a terrible creaking a week into my new ride. I checked everything and thought it was the cables. They checked out fine. This morning I pulled the rear wheel off and to my surprise the Maxle was bone dry and the drive side cone fell off into my hand along with the cassette free hub body! So I tightened it all up and greased the Maxle and BAM quiet again! Make sure and check the wheels out as it sounded like shock bolts or the bottom bracket to me and it was just noise transferring from the rear of the bike through the carbon.
    ^^This. Make sure that maxle is greased! Crank bolts are another suspect spot to make sure are greased properly.

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    Have a strange knocking sound in my medium XX1 build. Turns out that the Easton EC90 has a very long foreward bolt, and the shell of the Ibis seat is soft, so it hits the top of the bolt.

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    ditto to what n8balltx said.

    i had a creak, and it was the maxle.

    loving the bike, hating the drivetrain though. this xt w/ ethirteen drivetrain reminds me of why i went off the deep end and rode only my single speed for 5 years.

    Anyway, not working well for me, and I'm selling if anyone wants a great deal on a close to new xt/e13 drivetrain. i'm goin to try xx1.

    cheers,
    w

  13. #13
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    What issues are you having? Are you using a clutch rear der? I know my XTR drivetrain would drop chain a lot until I got a rear clutch derailleur. Ill be building my Ripley soon. Not sure if I will switch over my XTR 10speed drive train or just go xx1.

    Quote Originally Posted by holiday View Post
    ditto to what n8balltx said.

    i had a creak, and it was the maxle.

    loving the bike, hating the drivetrain though. this xt w/ ethirteen drivetrain reminds me of why i went off the deep end and rode only my single speed for 5 years.

    Anyway, not working well for me, and I'm selling if anyone wants a great deal on a close to new xt/e13 drivetrain. i'm goin to try xx1.

    cheers,
    w

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    Quote Originally Posted by fuenstock View Post
    What issues are you having? Are you using a clutch rear der? I know my XTR drivetrain would drop chain a lot until I got a rear clutch derailleur. Ill be building my Ripley soon. Not sure if I will switch over my XTR 10speed drive train or just go xx1.
    xtr or xx1 should be good.

    my xt clutch broke, they replace w/ a new der, but it wasn't great when i worked.
    the e thirteen crank is wrong, apparently they couldn't get it to work w/ a 2 speed der, so they speced a 3 speed, and it has a propensity to drop chains and is imprecise. i got 2nd in a masters enduro by 14 sec and dropped my chain twice, so this issue cost me the win and a top 10 overall.

    for background, after my 5 years of SS exclusive, I got the first XO 9 speed rear, and rode a double guard single front that was rock solid. I kept the 1x9 drivetrain for 3 bikes in a row, and didn't change till last summer w/ my first 29er. I just don't have the power for 1x9 w/ 29 and getting a bit weaker at 44 (w/ less milage).

    bike is amazing though. the 650b thing is interesting, and with any other 29er I've ridden, I might be leaning that way, but this one is so damn agile and playful, where's the downside?


    cheers,
    Holiday

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    Sorry about the problems regarding the E-13 crank / FD set up, we must not have gotten the word out to the shop who was building your bike. It's a new thing with the 2x+bash and the set up technique is not obvious until you've done one.

    It is possible to get flawless performance out of that drive train....

    The 2 main points are that a 2 ring plus bash is really a 3x crank so 2x shifters and front derailluers don't play well with it.

    AND, that the FD needs to be positioned as if the BASH were the big ring. (much higher than you would guess if locating based on the middle position) That way the ramps on the FD cage are in the right spot to move the chain around correctly. Here's a better explanation, a tech bulletin we did about how to set it up.:

    http://www.ibiscycles.com/downloads/...n_Edit_2.1.pdf

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    thx for the ideas Hans.
    Olympic up here in Tahoe city has some pretty good mechanics, and after early issues, they figured out the triple thing and made some adjustments, I still think having that extra range of the triple has issues and causes lost chains, but as my history states, I was anti triple and anti non specific 2x. It feels a bit like going backwards with so many good double specific solutions.

    both my friend and i that got them at the same time have gone through the xt clutch, and he has gone through the bb already as well.

    cheers,
    holiday

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    Quote Originally Posted by fuenstock View Post
    What issues are you having? Are you using a clutch rear der? I know my XTR drivetrain would drop chain a lot until I got a rear clutch derailleur. Ill be building my Ripley soon. Not sure if I will switch over my XTR 10speed drive train or just go xx1.
    I built my Ripley with XX1 and absolutely love it. I can't see myself going back to a double let alone a triple.

  18. #18
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    I too hate the 2x drivetrain, small ring is too easy, big ring is too hard an I remembered the reason I went 1x in the firstplace.. cuz I HATE front der.'s! Couldn't find a happy gear on the demo ripley. Built my own with 1x10 xtr an wolftooth chainring, an it's back to normal! 2x an 3x drivetrains are dead to me..
    Full time rider part time racer...

    See my adventures here..

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  19. #19
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    After spending the better part of two weeks disassembling ,greasing and reassembling my ripley riding it for a couple hours only to have the creak return i finally realized the noise is coming from the top mount of the rear shock being forced sideways by the lateral movement in the rear triangle. This combined with the incredibly loose fitting seat post which is almost impossible to tighten enough prompted me to put it back in the box and ship it back to where it came from. Problem Solved!
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  20. #20
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    I have a loud creaking on my Ripley also. Any ideas what to do next?

    Description of the issue:

    The creaking can be heard when compressing the rear suspension while riding the bike. In the beginning of the first ride the bike was quiet but the creaking started soon. It seems to be coming from somewhere around seat tube/rear shock area.

    Seat post (RS Reverb) was one of the suspects but the creaking is there also when riding while standing when suspension compresses.

    What has been done so far:

    - At first we thought it might be the cranks (SRAM XX1) which were a little bit loose after the first ride => cranks were tightened and they have stayed tight => no help
    - Crank bolts have been retightened after first ride => no help
    - The rear shock has been removed and grease has been liberally applied to the both the lower and upper shock mounts/bolts => no help
    - We also regreased the rear Maxle axle => no help
    - Headset, pedals and few other bolts have been checked for tightness and no problems there

    What other suspects there might be? Could the cause be somewhere in the eccentrics/suspension links? Any other suggestions?
    Pertti
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    Quote Originally Posted by clunkin View Post
    After spending the better part of two weeks disassembling ,greasing and reassembling my ripley riding it for a couple hours only to have the creak return i finally realized the noise is coming from the top mount of the rear shock being forced sideways by the lateral movement in the rear triangle. This combined with the incredibly loose fitting seat post which is almost impossible to tighten enough prompted me to put it back in the box and ship it back to where it came from. Problem Solved!
    Ouch....

  22. #22
    mdc
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    Again- check for side to side play in the upper shock mounts. I called Ibis when mine started creaking and they said that the Fox spacers were not 100%. A pedal washer solved the problem and the bike has been perfect ever since...

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    I've been thinking a minor creak is coming from my XX1 Type 2 derailleur.
    I'm going to do the derailleur rebuild/regrease this weekend. Hopefully that solves mine!

  24. #24
    Leq
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    My first XX1 rear derailleur was noisy as hell and creaked every time the suspension compressed. Propably it was overtightened and dry clutch mechanism. Replacement has been ok, no noises. Creaky xx1 has been quite common complaint and worth checking out.

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    Hey Leq, did you even attempt the rebuild or did your shop just opt to replace it?
    How long ago did you get your replacement?

    Thanks!

  26. #26
    Leq
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    LBS replaced it straight away since I was heading for a vacation and didn't have time to mess with the thing. Took the bike to the shop and was told replacement was from a newer batch, package was dated 03/13 If I recall correctly. This one is silent but still needs to be adjusted though.

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    Got it.
    Thanks for the info and build date.

  28. #28
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    Thanks for the additional tips mdc and SJMCS/leku. I will check the upper shock mount again and the XX1 derailleur next.
    Pertti
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    My personal bike was creaking. I suspected the rear through axle, but it was the XX-1 rear derailleur. Thanks for the tip, I knew about that potential, but forgot about it and was reminded by this thread! The clutch mechanism makes clunk noises as it works as well, which threw me off initially. They seem to have reduced this as they went, current ones are quieter with lower breakaway force than early production.

    FYI, the newer Fox forward bushing set up is designed not to fully clamp down on the sides of the bushing material so there is a little side to side front movement of the shock on the shaft when everything is assembled correctly. It does not often make any noise in my experience. The sliding element is Igus material. Of course grease and proper torque should be checked if it's making noise, but don't be put off by the small bit of lateral play, it's designed that way by Fox to avoid excessive friction and wear on the part. The plus side is that those parts are supposed to last about 10x longer than the old version and the friction is greatly reduced, enough that it seems that you can actually feel it in the suspension.

    H

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by hanssc View Post
    ...FYI, the newer Fox forward bushing set up is designed not to fully clamp down on the sides of the bushing material so there is a little side to side front movement of the shock on the shaft when everything is assembled correctly. It does not often make any noise in my experience. The sliding element is Igus material. Of course grease and proper torque should be checked if it's making noise, but don't be put off by the small bit of lateral play, it's designed that way by Fox to avoid excessive friction and wear on the part. ...
    Hans, are you suggesting that an additional spacer/washer is NOT recommended in the upper shock mount if there is some lateral play?

    I won't have any time to continue searching for the cause of the creaking until the weekend at the earliest but the noise seems to be coming from somewhere around the rear shock/seat post area so the upper shock mount could be a potential cause for this. Like I said above we did grease things in there too and that didn't have an effect on the creaking.
    Pertti
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    Hans, does the X-Fusion Microlite have the same play as the Fox?

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    I don't think so, it uses a conventional DU bushing.
    It should not matter one way or the other as related to making noise though.
    H

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Portti View Post
    Hans, are you suggesting that an additional spacer/washer is NOT recommended in the upper shock mount if there is some lateral play?.
    Correct.
    The rear fastener is much more likely to make noise. Make sure it's not bottoming out on itself before tightening onto the clevis and that the interface is greased well and torqued.

    The front shock eyelet PIN (not usually the Igus bushings) can sometimes make some clicking noises if loose or dry. It is worth taking a minute to take a couple of 4 mm allen wrenches and check to make sure it's tight. Or go further and spin one of the screws out, push the pin out, grease and reassemble, making sure that the fasteners have the little washers under the heads and tighten down onto the alloy inserts in the frame rather than onto the pin itself. That is sometimes a tolerance issue, not often though, and we normally catch that here during assembly. Once you are certain that it's greased and tightening down properly, you can focus your creak hunting attention elsewhere, because that's not it ; )

    Again, the new Fox bushings are designed to eliminate side compression from clamping and will feel loose side to side even when the pin hardware is properly torqued. It is supposed to be this way and should not contribute any noises to the bike.

    H

  34. #34
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    Thanks for detailed tips Hans. We've done some of them but we will look into these in more detail to make sure that we've covered everything.
    Pertti
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    Hey Hans,
    Can you elaborate on the rear fastener not bottoming out? I've had a creak coming from that area on my Ripley that I can tame temporarily, but only for half a ride or so, with grease. If the bolt/shaft is too long will it not tighten down on the shock and clevis properly?
    Thanks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by donburg View Post
    Hey Hans,
    Can you elaborate on the rear fastener not bottoming out? I've had a creak coming from that area on my Ripley that I can tame temporarily, but only for half a ride or so, with grease. If the bolt/shaft is too long will it not tighten down on the shock and clevis properly?
    Thanks.
    Exactly.
    Ping warranty@ibiscycles.com with your address and we'll mail you good one.
    You can probably file a little off the female side of the fastener and solve it right away as well.
    H

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    Quote Originally Posted by hanssc View Post
    Exactly.
    Ping warranty@ibiscycles.com with your address and we'll mail you good one.
    You can probably file a little off the female side of the fastener and solve it right away as well.
    H
    Thanks Hans.

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    hanssc-
    so...i've experience some creaking/popping noise after a few rides...took it to my shop and they did everything recommended on this thread

    however with the clevis and shock off the bike, there was a popping noise coming from the rear linkage...seemed like it was coming from the eccentrics themselves

    put the bike back together and went for a ride...the creaking/popping was still there and it was the same sound we generated with the clevis off

    any thoughts or recos?

    thanks!!!

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    It's obviously difficult to diagnose creaks remotely, but, let's try....

    Does the sound happen with pedal pressure, or suspension compression?
    Has the hardware and all component fasteners (cranks, pedals, chain rings, maxle) been checked for proper torque and grease? Sorry if this seems obvious, but it's usually something like that.

    H

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    Yep creaks suck and are hard to diagnose locally too. I had one for months on an Anthem and tore it all apart piece by piece until I found it. Last place I expected, rear QR axel. Could have sworn it was coming from the BB area.

    Nice thing about it is you get better at troubleshooting them as time goes by.

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    Check your XX1 Cassette for Creaking

    I was having a creak while pedaling with a load (up hill) and found the XO1 cassette to be the culprit. I had thought the sound was coming from the BB, the noise also changed with pedaling and load. There is a sleeve that sits between the big cog and little cog and attaches to the X1 Driver(Sram Freehub thing). I greased it and it has been silent for three rides.
    Last edited by MTBMILES; 08-24-2013 at 06:54 PM. Reason: heaving

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    Quote Originally Posted by hanssc View Post
    It's obviously difficult to diagnose creaks remotely, but, let's try....

    Does the sound happen with pedal pressure, or suspension compression?
    Has the hardware and all component fasteners (cranks, pedals, chain rings, maxle) been checked for proper torque and grease? Sorry if this seems obvious, but it's usually something like that.

    H
    Hanssc...thanks for the reply...think we found it...as I mentioned we were able to generate the noise with the shock and clevis removed...it appeared to be coming from on of the swing arm bolts...pulled it greased it and torqued it...will see tomorrow

  43. #43
    Leq
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    Sram type 2 clutch overhaul: SRAM Type 2 Overhaul | Bicycling Australia

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    Squeak fix?

    It's great to see Hans chime in on this issue. While researching if the Ripley is the direction I wanted to go for my next bike (too many choices), I chatted with my LBS and they mentioned they're aware of this issue. Fast forward to today and I noticed that they posted up this link on their Facebook page: Ibis Ripley Creak fix teaser by @thebikecompany | MyBikeStand.com

    I'm going to sit tight and see if this issue gets resolved from Ibis, but I'm sure you could contact The Bike Company to see if they can help resolve the squeak issue.

    Good luck!

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    so after my shop tore apart and rebuilt my whip 3 times, we found the source...

    IT WAS THE FOX FORK

    save yourself some trouble and check the fork

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    Mine was the XX1 rear derailleur. The rebuild took care of it.

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    Fox Creak!

    Yup the stanchion to crown interface are creaking. Both my forks are doing it. Warranty covered one fork and worked great for a few months and has come back again. WTF
    Anyways...flipped bike upside down and put some light oil down in that spot and let it sit over night. Solved problem for a little while but came back again. WTF..



    Quote Originally Posted by wlhighlight View Post
    so after my shop tore apart and rebuilt my whip 3 times, we found the source...

    IT WAS THE FOX FORK

    save yourself some trouble and check the fork

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    mine's been creaking a bit too under hard pedaling, but it turns out it's just my knees.

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  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leq View Post
    My first XX1 rear derailleur was noisy as hell and creaked every time the suspension compressed. Propably it was overtightened and dry clutch mechanism. Replacement has been ok, no noises. Creaky xx1 has been quite common complaint and worth checking out.
    The problem is the clutch is dry from the factory, it really needs a grease either take it to your LBs before you bugger that one too or if you have enough mechanical nouse you can pull the whole thing apart and grease it with a good quality 100% fully synthetic grease, not MPrep its too thick something like slick honey, or red devil Rock n Roll is great!

    You will get no knock your shifting will improve 10fold and it will be sweet for the rest of its life probably, will do mine twice yearly its not hard,just remember to feel the clutch tension when you re tighten the 55/8mm torx.

    Link to a thread with pics and more info I started awhile back
    cheers

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