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Thread: Creaking Ripley

  1. #1
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    Creaking Ripley

    Just curious how many new Ripley owners are experiencing a creaking noise when pedaling hard. Mine started creaking one hour into my first ride and i have not been able to pinpoint it yet. I took the top link apart and regreased the pivots but i didnt help. Im running an xtr 2x10 drivetrain with a shimano BB I'm hoping it's something simple and not an uncurable issue because it sure does take away from an otherwise stellar bike.
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    I had the creak within the first two weeks.
    It was coming from the area where the shock is mounted. The lower mount where two vertical mounting hardware bolts hold the shock.
    Took it apart and re-greased everything and it solve the problem.

  3. #3
    mdc
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    Mine had a slight bit of play between the upper shock mounts. If I held the top tube and pulled on the shock it would move a tiny amount, but would cause a creak. Luckily a pedal washer was the exact right thickness and diameter to fix the problem.....

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    I'm having the same issue. Very creaky and also had a lot of play at the lower shock mount. Tightened the bolts as hard as I could without stripping them but there is still a very small amount of play, enough to cause the creak. Still searching for a remedy, some sort of thin washer or spacer. Pedal washer sounds good but I don't have any

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    Just a note to be aware that the new style Fox bushings do have a small amount of lateral movement built in even when everything is tight. Grease should quiet things down if there is a noise coming from that area though.

    H
    Quote Originally Posted by unclekittykiller View Post
    I'm having the same issue. Very creaky and also had a lot of play at the lower shock mount. Tightened the bolts as hard as I could without stripping them but there is still a very small amount of play, enough to cause the creak. Still searching for a remedy, some sort of thin washer or spacer. Pedal washer sounds good but I don't have any

  6. #6
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    My play is coming from the lower shock mount like alwayslivingthedream mentioned. there is no play in the upper mount with the new fox bushing, even though it's now housing a Monarch. the play seems like it's being caused by the two vertical screw halves bottoming before they can fully clamp the shock eye tight into the clevis.

  7. #7
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    On my last ride i discovered that my shifter cables were migrating into the head tube a tiny bit every time i turned the handlebars until eventually there was no more slack in the cables where they exit the head tube as well as that movement was causing some of the noises i was hearing while i was riding. To hopefully cure the problem i put a small cable tie around the cables individually on the outside of the headtube to keep them from sliding back into the holes on their own. Its seems to be working and the cables are making a lot less noise than before. Hopefully my next ride will be a quieter one.
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    I was having a terrible creaking a week into my new ride. I checked everything and thought it was the cables. They checked out fine. This morning I pulled the rear wheel off and to my surprise the Maxle was bone dry and the drive side cone fell off into my hand along with the cassette free hub body! So I tightened it all up and greased the Maxle and BAM quiet again! Make sure and check the wheels out as it sounded like shock bolts or the bottom bracket to me and it was just noise transferring from the rear of the bike through the carbon.

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    I also developed some creaks after a few rides. In my case, it was a combination of seat rails and bottom bracket. I cleaned the seat rails and seat post clamp, put a little grease on the rails, and reassembled. I pulled the crankset out, cleaned up the bottom bracket, checked the chainring bolts, greased everything, and reassembled. The creaking is gone. For now, at least.

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    Quote Originally Posted by n8ballTX View Post
    I was having a terrible creaking a week into my new ride. I checked everything and thought it was the cables. They checked out fine. This morning I pulled the rear wheel off and to my surprise the Maxle was bone dry and the drive side cone fell off into my hand along with the cassette free hub body! So I tightened it all up and greased the Maxle and BAM quiet again! Make sure and check the wheels out as it sounded like shock bolts or the bottom bracket to me and it was just noise transferring from the rear of the bike through the carbon.
    ^^This. Make sure that maxle is greased! Crank bolts are another suspect spot to make sure are greased properly.

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    Have a strange knocking sound in my medium XX1 build. Turns out that the Easton EC90 has a very long foreward bolt, and the shell of the Ibis seat is soft, so it hits the top of the bolt.

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    ditto to what n8balltx said.

    i had a creak, and it was the maxle.

    loving the bike, hating the drivetrain though. this xt w/ ethirteen drivetrain reminds me of why i went off the deep end and rode only my single speed for 5 years.

    Anyway, not working well for me, and I'm selling if anyone wants a great deal on a close to new xt/e13 drivetrain. i'm goin to try xx1.

    cheers,
    w

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    What issues are you having? Are you using a clutch rear der? I know my XTR drivetrain would drop chain a lot until I got a rear clutch derailleur. Ill be building my Ripley soon. Not sure if I will switch over my XTR 10speed drive train or just go xx1.

    Quote Originally Posted by holiday View Post
    ditto to what n8balltx said.

    i had a creak, and it was the maxle.

    loving the bike, hating the drivetrain though. this xt w/ ethirteen drivetrain reminds me of why i went off the deep end and rode only my single speed for 5 years.

    Anyway, not working well for me, and I'm selling if anyone wants a great deal on a close to new xt/e13 drivetrain. i'm goin to try xx1.

    cheers,
    w

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    Quote Originally Posted by fuenstock View Post
    What issues are you having? Are you using a clutch rear der? I know my XTR drivetrain would drop chain a lot until I got a rear clutch derailleur. Ill be building my Ripley soon. Not sure if I will switch over my XTR 10speed drive train or just go xx1.
    xtr or xx1 should be good.

    my xt clutch broke, they replace w/ a new der, but it wasn't great when i worked.
    the e thirteen crank is wrong, apparently they couldn't get it to work w/ a 2 speed der, so they speced a 3 speed, and it has a propensity to drop chains and is imprecise. i got 2nd in a masters enduro by 14 sec and dropped my chain twice, so this issue cost me the win and a top 10 overall.

    for background, after my 5 years of SS exclusive, I got the first XO 9 speed rear, and rode a double guard single front that was rock solid. I kept the 1x9 drivetrain for 3 bikes in a row, and didn't change till last summer w/ my first 29er. I just don't have the power for 1x9 w/ 29 and getting a bit weaker at 44 (w/ less milage).

    bike is amazing though. the 650b thing is interesting, and with any other 29er I've ridden, I might be leaning that way, but this one is so damn agile and playful, where's the downside?


    cheers,
    Holiday

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    Sorry about the problems regarding the E-13 crank / FD set up, we must not have gotten the word out to the shop who was building your bike. It's a new thing with the 2x+bash and the set up technique is not obvious until you've done one.

    It is possible to get flawless performance out of that drive train....

    The 2 main points are that a 2 ring plus bash is really a 3x crank so 2x shifters and front derailluers don't play well with it.

    AND, that the FD needs to be positioned as if the BASH were the big ring. (much higher than you would guess if locating based on the middle position) That way the ramps on the FD cage are in the right spot to move the chain around correctly. Here's a better explanation, a tech bulletin we did about how to set it up.:

    http://www.ibiscycles.com/downloads/...n_Edit_2.1.pdf

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    thx for the ideas Hans.
    Olympic up here in Tahoe city has some pretty good mechanics, and after early issues, they figured out the triple thing and made some adjustments, I still think having that extra range of the triple has issues and causes lost chains, but as my history states, I was anti triple and anti non specific 2x. It feels a bit like going backwards with so many good double specific solutions.

    both my friend and i that got them at the same time have gone through the xt clutch, and he has gone through the bb already as well.

    cheers,
    holiday

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    Quote Originally Posted by fuenstock View Post
    What issues are you having? Are you using a clutch rear der? I know my XTR drivetrain would drop chain a lot until I got a rear clutch derailleur. Ill be building my Ripley soon. Not sure if I will switch over my XTR 10speed drive train or just go xx1.
    I built my Ripley with XX1 and absolutely love it. I can't see myself going back to a double let alone a triple.

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    I too hate the 2x drivetrain, small ring is too easy, big ring is too hard an I remembered the reason I went 1x in the firstplace.. cuz I HATE front der.'s! Couldn't find a happy gear on the demo ripley. Built my own with 1x10 xtr an wolftooth chainring, an it's back to normal! 2x an 3x drivetrains are dead to me..
    Full time rider part time racer...

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  19. #19
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    After spending the better part of two weeks disassembling ,greasing and reassembling my ripley riding it for a couple hours only to have the creak return i finally realized the noise is coming from the top mount of the rear shock being forced sideways by the lateral movement in the rear triangle. This combined with the incredibly loose fitting seat post which is almost impossible to tighten enough prompted me to put it back in the box and ship it back to where it came from. Problem Solved!
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  20. #20
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    I have a loud creaking on my Ripley also. Any ideas what to do next?

    Description of the issue:

    The creaking can be heard when compressing the rear suspension while riding the bike. In the beginning of the first ride the bike was quiet but the creaking started soon. It seems to be coming from somewhere around seat tube/rear shock area.

    Seat post (RS Reverb) was one of the suspects but the creaking is there also when riding while standing when suspension compresses.

    What has been done so far:

    - At first we thought it might be the cranks (SRAM XX1) which were a little bit loose after the first ride => cranks were tightened and they have stayed tight => no help
    - Crank bolts have been retightened after first ride => no help
    - The rear shock has been removed and grease has been liberally applied to the both the lower and upper shock mounts/bolts => no help
    - We also regreased the rear Maxle axle => no help
    - Headset, pedals and few other bolts have been checked for tightness and no problems there

    What other suspects there might be? Could the cause be somewhere in the eccentrics/suspension links? Any other suggestions?
    Pertti
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    Quote Originally Posted by clunkin View Post
    After spending the better part of two weeks disassembling ,greasing and reassembling my ripley riding it for a couple hours only to have the creak return i finally realized the noise is coming from the top mount of the rear shock being forced sideways by the lateral movement in the rear triangle. This combined with the incredibly loose fitting seat post which is almost impossible to tighten enough prompted me to put it back in the box and ship it back to where it came from. Problem Solved!
    Ouch....

  22. #22
    mdc
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    Again- check for side to side play in the upper shock mounts. I called Ibis when mine started creaking and they said that the Fox spacers were not 100%. A pedal washer solved the problem and the bike has been perfect ever since...

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    I've been thinking a minor creak is coming from my XX1 Type 2 derailleur.
    I'm going to do the derailleur rebuild/regrease this weekend. Hopefully that solves mine!

  24. #24
    Leq
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    My first XX1 rear derailleur was noisy as hell and creaked every time the suspension compressed. Propably it was overtightened and dry clutch mechanism. Replacement has been ok, no noises. Creaky xx1 has been quite common complaint and worth checking out.

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    Hey Leq, did you even attempt the rebuild or did your shop just opt to replace it?
    How long ago did you get your replacement?

    Thanks!

  26. #26
    Leq
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    LBS replaced it straight away since I was heading for a vacation and didn't have time to mess with the thing. Took the bike to the shop and was told replacement was from a newer batch, package was dated 03/13 If I recall correctly. This one is silent but still needs to be adjusted though.

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    Got it.
    Thanks for the info and build date.

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    Thanks for the additional tips mdc and SJMCS/leku. I will check the upper shock mount again and the XX1 derailleur next.
    Pertti
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    My personal bike was creaking. I suspected the rear through axle, but it was the XX-1 rear derailleur. Thanks for the tip, I knew about that potential, but forgot about it and was reminded by this thread! The clutch mechanism makes clunk noises as it works as well, which threw me off initially. They seem to have reduced this as they went, current ones are quieter with lower breakaway force than early production.

    FYI, the newer Fox forward bushing set up is designed not to fully clamp down on the sides of the bushing material so there is a little side to side front movement of the shock on the shaft when everything is assembled correctly. It does not often make any noise in my experience. The sliding element is Igus material. Of course grease and proper torque should be checked if it's making noise, but don't be put off by the small bit of lateral play, it's designed that way by Fox to avoid excessive friction and wear on the part. The plus side is that those parts are supposed to last about 10x longer than the old version and the friction is greatly reduced, enough that it seems that you can actually feel it in the suspension.

    H

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by hanssc View Post
    ...FYI, the newer Fox forward bushing set up is designed not to fully clamp down on the sides of the bushing material so there is a little side to side front movement of the shock on the shaft when everything is assembled correctly. It does not often make any noise in my experience. The sliding element is Igus material. Of course grease and proper torque should be checked if it's making noise, but don't be put off by the small bit of lateral play, it's designed that way by Fox to avoid excessive friction and wear on the part. ...
    Hans, are you suggesting that an additional spacer/washer is NOT recommended in the upper shock mount if there is some lateral play?

    I won't have any time to continue searching for the cause of the creaking until the weekend at the earliest but the noise seems to be coming from somewhere around the rear shock/seat post area so the upper shock mount could be a potential cause for this. Like I said above we did grease things in there too and that didn't have an effect on the creaking.
    Pertti
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    Hans, does the X-Fusion Microlite have the same play as the Fox?

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    I don't think so, it uses a conventional DU bushing.
    It should not matter one way or the other as related to making noise though.
    H

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    Quote Originally Posted by Portti View Post
    Hans, are you suggesting that an additional spacer/washer is NOT recommended in the upper shock mount if there is some lateral play?.
    Correct.
    The rear fastener is much more likely to make noise. Make sure it's not bottoming out on itself before tightening onto the clevis and that the interface is greased well and torqued.

    The front shock eyelet PIN (not usually the Igus bushings) can sometimes make some clicking noises if loose or dry. It is worth taking a minute to take a couple of 4 mm allen wrenches and check to make sure it's tight. Or go further and spin one of the screws out, push the pin out, grease and reassemble, making sure that the fasteners have the little washers under the heads and tighten down onto the alloy inserts in the frame rather than onto the pin itself. That is sometimes a tolerance issue, not often though, and we normally catch that here during assembly. Once you are certain that it's greased and tightening down properly, you can focus your creak hunting attention elsewhere, because that's not it ; )

    Again, the new Fox bushings are designed to eliminate side compression from clamping and will feel loose side to side even when the pin hardware is properly torqued. It is supposed to be this way and should not contribute any noises to the bike.

    H

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    Thanks for detailed tips Hans. We've done some of them but we will look into these in more detail to make sure that we've covered everything.
    Pertti
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    Hey Hans,
    Can you elaborate on the rear fastener not bottoming out? I've had a creak coming from that area on my Ripley that I can tame temporarily, but only for half a ride or so, with grease. If the bolt/shaft is too long will it not tighten down on the shock and clevis properly?
    Thanks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by donburg View Post
    Hey Hans,
    Can you elaborate on the rear fastener not bottoming out? I've had a creak coming from that area on my Ripley that I can tame temporarily, but only for half a ride or so, with grease. If the bolt/shaft is too long will it not tighten down on the shock and clevis properly?
    Thanks.
    Exactly.
    Ping warranty@ibiscycles.com with your address and we'll mail you good one.
    You can probably file a little off the female side of the fastener and solve it right away as well.
    H

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    Quote Originally Posted by hanssc View Post
    Exactly.
    Ping warranty@ibiscycles.com with your address and we'll mail you good one.
    You can probably file a little off the female side of the fastener and solve it right away as well.
    H
    Thanks Hans.

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    hanssc-
    so...i've experience some creaking/popping noise after a few rides...took it to my shop and they did everything recommended on this thread

    however with the clevis and shock off the bike, there was a popping noise coming from the rear linkage...seemed like it was coming from the eccentrics themselves

    put the bike back together and went for a ride...the creaking/popping was still there and it was the same sound we generated with the clevis off

    any thoughts or recos?

    thanks!!!

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    It's obviously difficult to diagnose creaks remotely, but, let's try....

    Does the sound happen with pedal pressure, or suspension compression?
    Has the hardware and all component fasteners (cranks, pedals, chain rings, maxle) been checked for proper torque and grease? Sorry if this seems obvious, but it's usually something like that.

    H

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    Yep creaks suck and are hard to diagnose locally too. I had one for months on an Anthem and tore it all apart piece by piece until I found it. Last place I expected, rear QR axel. Could have sworn it was coming from the BB area.

    Nice thing about it is you get better at troubleshooting them as time goes by.

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    Check your XX1 Cassette for Creaking

    I was having a creak while pedaling with a load (up hill) and found the XO1 cassette to be the culprit. I had thought the sound was coming from the BB, the noise also changed with pedaling and load. There is a sleeve that sits between the big cog and little cog and attaches to the X1 Driver(Sram Freehub thing). I greased it and it has been silent for three rides.
    Last edited by MTBMILES; 08-24-2013 at 05:54 PM. Reason: heaving

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    Quote Originally Posted by hanssc View Post
    It's obviously difficult to diagnose creaks remotely, but, let's try....

    Does the sound happen with pedal pressure, or suspension compression?
    Has the hardware and all component fasteners (cranks, pedals, chain rings, maxle) been checked for proper torque and grease? Sorry if this seems obvious, but it's usually something like that.

    H
    Hanssc...thanks for the reply...think we found it...as I mentioned we were able to generate the noise with the shock and clevis removed...it appeared to be coming from on of the swing arm bolts...pulled it greased it and torqued it...will see tomorrow

  43. #43
    Leq
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    Sram type 2 clutch overhaul: SRAM Type 2 Overhaul | Bicycling Australia

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    Squeak fix?

    It's great to see Hans chime in on this issue. While researching if the Ripley is the direction I wanted to go for my next bike (too many choices), I chatted with my LBS and they mentioned they're aware of this issue. Fast forward to today and I noticed that they posted up this link on their Facebook page: Ibis Ripley Creak fix teaser by @thebikecompany | MyBikeStand.com

    I'm going to sit tight and see if this issue gets resolved from Ibis, but I'm sure you could contact The Bike Company to see if they can help resolve the squeak issue.

    Good luck!

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    so after my shop tore apart and rebuilt my whip 3 times, we found the source...

    IT WAS THE FOX FORK

    save yourself some trouble and check the fork

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    Mine was the XX1 rear derailleur. The rebuild took care of it.

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    Fox Creak!

    Yup the stanchion to crown interface are creaking. Both my forks are doing it. Warranty covered one fork and worked great for a few months and has come back again. WTF
    Anyways...flipped bike upside down and put some light oil down in that spot and let it sit over night. Solved problem for a little while but came back again. WTF..



    Quote Originally Posted by wlhighlight View Post
    so after my shop tore apart and rebuilt my whip 3 times, we found the source...

    IT WAS THE FOX FORK

    save yourself some trouble and check the fork

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    mine's been creaking a bit too under hard pedaling, but it turns out it's just my knees.

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  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leq View Post
    My first XX1 rear derailleur was noisy as hell and creaked every time the suspension compressed. Propably it was overtightened and dry clutch mechanism. Replacement has been ok, no noises. Creaky xx1 has been quite common complaint and worth checking out.
    The problem is the clutch is dry from the factory, it really needs a grease either take it to your LBs before you bugger that one too or if you have enough mechanical nouse you can pull the whole thing apart and grease it with a good quality 100% fully synthetic grease, not MPrep its too thick something like slick honey, or red devil Rock n Roll is great!

    You will get no knock your shifting will improve 10fold and it will be sweet for the rest of its life probably, will do mine twice yearly its not hard,just remember to feel the clutch tension when you re tighten the 55/8mm torx.

    Link to a thread with pics and more info I started awhile back
    cheers

  51. #51
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    Ditto that, mine go in a few inches over time. Been working on a fix.

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    Yes mine too this is the first place to check I think the lower mount or the shock with the vertical bolts. Took me an hour or 2 to find it.

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    Riding a Ripley for a few months - the bike creaks like hell!

    Quote Originally Posted by m_t_b View Post
    Yes mine too this is the first place to check I think the lower mount or the shock with the vertical bolts. Took me an hour or 2 to find it.
    The bike's great, except for the noise they make...
    Did all the cable routing stuff that I learned from the Ibis web site,
    Went to the local Ibis dealer a few times - but the creaks return after a ride or two.
    Think it's coming from the drive train and the rear suspension.
    Not what you expect for a hi-end bike.
    It would be nice if Ibis, or one of it's dealers would produce and share a video that explains how to get rid of those annoying creaks.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Creaking Ripley-2013-08-23-13.58.35.jpg  


  54. #54
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    Mine is now silent (again). I fixed the seat (bent the clamp on the KS Lev), replaced the bolt from the shock to the clevis (free replacement from Ibis with updated part), and had the bottom bracket tightened up. Silent running! Although I did tweak my front rotor a bit so that it makes noise after it gets hot, so not completely silent going down longer steep stuff. I'll have to fuss over that to get the rotor trued up again.

  55. #55
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    How about this: Fixing Bearing Creak on Multi Pivot Suspension Bikes - YouTube

    He uses a Ripley as his test bike so should cover everything. I have now sold my Ripley but that is another story.

  56. #56
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    I recently had a creak, and I took the whole rear of the bike apart, cleaned, greased and torqued to spec, THAT noise is now gone. 3 rides later, I'm getting a strange noise which to me sounds like is coming from the drive train. It only creaks when I pedal hard.... its silent in every other situation. I'm thinking it may be in the rear wheel? But I have no idea, haven't been able to find it yet.

  57. #57
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    If it creaks when you pedal hard out of the saddle and the bike is getting moved side to side its probably the problem I had with the lower shock link.

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    I don't know, it sounds like its coming from the wheel or RD. Its hard to describe. It doesn't sound like a frame creak, in my unprofessional opinion...

  59. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by zeppman View Post
    I don't know, it sounds like its coming from the wheel or RD. Its hard to describe. It doesn't sound like a frame creak, in my unprofessional opinion...
    Make sure the rear Maxle is tight. My SL-R seems to develop this unique creak over time. I just open the cam on the Maxle and I can usually tighten the threads a tiny bit then close the cam. Voila.

  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by neilether View Post
    Make sure the rear Maxle is tight. My SL-R seems to develop this unique creak over time. I just open the cam on the Maxle and I can usually tighten the threads a tiny bit then close the cam. Voila.
    Ya know, my lever on my maxle has lost its tension (if that makes any sense). I'll tighten it by turning it, but when I go to close the lever, it feels as though its worn out and it takes very little force to close the lever, no matter how much I turn (or don't turn) the maxle...

  61. #61
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    It is not like a normal qr, there is no cam.
    milesW

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    Quote Originally Posted by zeppman View Post
    Ya know, my lever on my maxle has lost its tension (if that makes any sense). I'll tighten it by turning it, but when I go to close the lever, it feels as though its worn out and it takes very little force to close the lever, no matter how much I turn (or don't turn) the maxle...
    Nuances aside, the lever functions essentially as a cam to expand the maxle and do the final tightening. If the lever is too easy to close, you can tighten it up. With the lever open, look inside the "cam" and you will see a little allen head bolt. Tigthen that a couple of clicks and then check the tension on the lever as you go to close it. Per their instructions, if I remember correctly, the lever should start to get tight as soon as it goes over the center of the axle axis. IF that makes any sense.....Anyway, look for that bolt. Tighten it a couple of clicks with a small allen wrench and it should fix your problem.

  63. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by neilether View Post
    Nuances aside, the lever functions essentially as a cam to expand the maxle and do the final tightening. If the lever is too easy to close, you can tighten it up. With the lever open, look inside the "cam" and you will see a little allen head bolt. Tigthen that a couple of clicks and then check the tension on the lever as you go to close it. Per their instructions, if I remember correctly, the lever should start to get tight as soon as it goes over the center of the axle axis. IF that makes any sense.....Anyway, look for that bolt. Tighten it a couple of clicks with a small allen wrench and it should fix your problem.
    Thank you, this is my first "high end" bike and I am new to a lot of this technology. Plus sometimes I'm just an idiot.

  64. #64
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    I had the xo1 cassette creaking under a load. There is a cylinder between the big cog and little cod that I greased and found it to be the noise maker.
    milesW

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    Thanks for your comments, I hope I can reduce the creaks to a reasonable level soon.

    Quote Originally Posted by m_t_b View Post
    How about this: Fixing Bearing Creak on Multi Pivot Suspension Bikes - YouTube

    He uses a Ripley as his test bike so should cover everything. I have now sold my Ripley but that is another story.
    m_t_b: Why did you sell your ripley?

  66. #66
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    also check the 'little' things. I had some bad creaking...went through the seat / seatpost a couple times, the rear shock bolt, and a few other things...nothing was fixing the creak. then I checked my seatpost qr...pulled it apart and simply greased the bolt threads and where the cam rubs that plastic concave spacer...no more creaking.

  67. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by quisp View Post
    m_t_b: Why did you sell your ripley?
    I had an injury but also clearance issues with the rear tyre hitting the seat tube I could not make it work with any tyre I tried. I went through about 4 and they all hit the seat tube when I did anything approaching fun!

    I had a couple of techs look over it, including one from fox but they could not make it work either. Tried a different volume spacer in the can etc. but still no change. I began anticipating when it was going to happen or not and that took away from my ride enjoyment. It was also a bit noisy! Its a shame as I loved the bike but that is not something I could get around. I got an injury and decided to move it on. Now waiting for a Carbon Specialized Enduro 29.

  68. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by m_t_b View Post
    I had an injury but also clearance issues with the rear tyre hitting the seat tube I could not make it work with any tyre I tried. I went through about 4 and they all hit the seat tube when I did anything approaching fun!

    I had a couple of techs look over it, including one from fox but they could not make it work either. Tried a different volume spacer in the can etc. but still no change. I began anticipating when it was going to happen or not and that took away from my ride enjoyment. It was also a bit noisy! Its a shame as I loved the bike but that is not something I could get around. I got an injury and decided to move it on. Now waiting for a Carbon Specialized Enduro 29.
    Really? and you never called Ibis? They are the first ones you should have called.
    I think most Ripley riders have fit rear tires on their bikes

  69. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBMILES View Post
    Really? and you never called Ibis? They are the first ones you should have called.
    I think most Ripley riders have fit rear tires on their bikes
    I guessing he meant the tire hit the seattube when the suspension was fully compressed, not static, duh.

  70. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBMILES View Post
    Really? and you never called Ibis? They are the first ones you should have called.
    I think most Ripley riders have fit rear tires on their bikes
    I did speak to Ibis and exchanged emails with them but I want to run the tyres I want to run, a 2.25 Ardent, 2.25 Nobby Nic is pretty standard and they hit the seat tube.
    To have the bikes design dictate whether I can run a slightly higher profile tyre or not is unacceptable. My SB95 prior to this did the same thing I spoke to Yeti about it and they swore there was no problem then they changed the design of the rear triangle for 2014 to give more clearance.......

  71. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by m_t_b View Post
    I did speak to Ibis and exchanged emails with them but I want to run the tyres I want to run, a 2.25 Ardent, 2.25 Nobby Nic is pretty standard and they hit the seat tube.
    To have the bikes design dictate whether I can run a slightly higher profile tyre or not is unacceptable. My SB95 prior to this did the same thing I spoke to Yeti about it and they swore there was no problem then they changed the design of the rear triangle for 2014 to give more clearance.......
    I wonder if your bike had something out of spec? I've been running 2.25 knobby nic on rear. I regularly bottom out the suspension and it's got plenty of clearance, never had seat tube rub. I'm on a small frame

  72. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by fuenstock View Post
    I wonder if your bike had something out of spec? I've been running 2.25 knobby nic on rear. I regularly bottom out the suspension and it's got plenty of clearance, never had seat tube rub. I'm on a small frame
    Yes I thought about that but I really could not see how it could be and I measured the shaft on the shock and it was correct maybe the eye to eye was wrong but it was never offered as a solution and I really did not think that could happen. Good to know yours is ok, I guess you have let all air out the shock and fully compressed the rear.

  73. #73
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    m_t_b what size is your frame? and what rear shock were you running? I'm getting ready to order a XL ripley and want to make sure this is a non issue

  74. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by alias33 View Post
    m_t_b what size is your frame? and what rear shock were you running? I'm getting ready to order a XL ripley and want to make sure this is a non issue
    Mine had the stock fox rp23 on and was a size large. If you get a chance put your tyre of choice on let all the air out the shock and test it. If you can't ask ibis if they can/have.

  75. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by m_t_b View Post
    Good to know yours is ok, I guess you have let all air out the shock and fully compressed the rear.
    Yes I did that when I built the bike up before my first ride to check clearance. I also regularly bottom out the fork and shock on rides and have yet to have any rubbing in the few months I have on my Ripley. I belive it had around 1/4" clearance at bottom out. Ill let the air out again and snap a picture tonight after my ride.

  76. #76
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    Wake up, Ibis...

    Another guy with the same Ripley problems:
    Exclusive: Dream Bikes-the Extended Version

  77. #77
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    I realize that I never followed up on this. Turns out for me the noise was coming from the cassette. I pulled it off the wheel, put a little grease on the free hub body, and no more noise.

  78. #78
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    Mr. Ripley

    So I bought a Ripley November 2013 and absolutely LOVE how she rides; however the creaking and ticking sounds have severely soured our relationship. It started up only after a few rides and took me a while to finally isolate to the swing arm pivots where they attach to the eccentrics. You tube video of the clicking here.

    Disassembling, cleaning, and then re-assembling the eccentrics cured the problem, for a while. Noise returned only a ride or so later that turned out (thankfully) to be my rear maxle, which apparently wasn't on super tight. That problem solved I got one more ride in before the creaking re-appeared. Isolated the sound to the eccentrics (once again) and cleaned and lubed everything and so far (one 1 hour ride) it's remained noise free.

    Now, I'm leaving out lots of small details, including intermittent clicking/knocking noise that ended up being my cables - which I solved by routing both my rear drivetrain and rear brake outside the frame - but I don't want to bore readers with all my rabbit trail pursuits for which the culprit ended up being the eccentrics.

    I'm hoping this last clean+lube will solve the problem; however what's really frustrating is that I cannot seem to isolate the exact cause of the clicking. I did notice that that shaft bolts that run through the eccentrics do rotate when the suspension is cycled (video here), even though I have set the torque to the specified amount (7Nm). Even at 7.8Nm there is still some rotation and I don't want to go above that number to avoid damaging the eccentric cores.

    I'm wondering if perhaps the interface between the shaft bolts and the bearings, or the bearings and the eccentric core caps are the cause of the creaks. I don't think it is the eccentrics themselves as you'll notice (from watching the videos) that those didn't creak once I removed the swing arm.

    True to their reputation Ibis has been great (so far) in troubleshooting although I just recently started an inquiry thread with Scott, one of their techies. I'll keep everyone posted as to whether she remains creak free with this latest clean and lube or if I ever isolate the exact cause and can produce a more permanent fix.

    In closing I'll recount how when I was sought info on this bike and was comparing it to a Specialized Camber or Epic I was informed that it was like comparing a Porsche to a Ford. At first I scoffed at that reply; but after seeing and riding the Ripley I really do think that that statement wasn't so far off - this bike is truly a pice of art; however I hadn't considered that one downside of owning a Porsche is that they can be a bit finicky, and so far she hasn't disappointed on either front.

    Hopefully the eccentric creaks are now behind me so that I can fully enjoy this terrific machine. A couple of pics below:

    Creaking Ripley-img_4177.jpg

    Creaking Ripley-img_4176.jpg

    Creaking Ripley-img_4178.jpg

    Oh, and please don't go and tell me to grease my derailleur clutch or oil my spokes or some other nonsense. I've already done EVERYTHING.

  79. #79
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    Thorin_2, you stated "I did notice that that shaft bolts that run through the eccentrics do rotate when the suspension is cycled"

    Mine do the same (though they don't click), and I thought that is how the eccentrics are supposed to work? I know this won't help you with your clicking noises, but I want to find out if the rotating shaft is normal on the eccentrics?

  80. #80
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    Do you pressure wash your bike? Or just ride a lot in really sloppy conditions? I haven't torn down a Ripley, but I'm surprised to see that much crud in the eccentrics from typical usage. My Mojo's have been super trouble-free, but maybe they're just sealed better.... Probably no help at all, but just curious.
    That's how my bikes used to get before I swore off riding through stream crossings more than a few inches deep...finally decided the 3 seconds of slo-mo splash down glory wasn't worth all the extra maintenance headaches.

    Good luck and let us know when the riddle's solved.

    BTW, are you talking to Scott, or Scot? If the latter, he is a techie, but also the founder of the company...fyi

  81. #81
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    @zeppman - great question. I asked that same question of Scott over the weekend and am waiting for a reply. Perhaps the bolts are meant to rotate. Not sure.

    @doismellbacon - no to the pressure wash. In fact she's so new I've only been hand-washing with a damp rag! And I never ride in water or mud (if I can help it). In fact Texas is notoriously dry, thus I was also surprised to see such a large quantity of dirt inside the core; however I was told that this was normal by Ibis. The cap edges and exterior sides of the caps were debris free, which is good I suppose. I'm just as curious as to how the dirt is traveling so far into the inner workings of the eccentrics, but I'm not convinced dirt is at fault (check out my video of the eccentrics being rotated with no clicking - before disassembly). Must be Scot, one 'T'. My bad!

  82. #82
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    This rotating shaft bolt's head is propably meant to contact the small bearing inside the rear triange? In other words, the axially mating parts should be the 608(?) bearing's inner ring and this shaft bolt head?

    If the bolt is somehow bottomed out before this contact is made the bolt head is now sliding against the carbon and this stick slip motion is creating these creaks.

    Don't know if this is the case but it makes sense in my head. That ain't much though...

  83. #83
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    I have loud creaking from my eccentric pivots. I have ridden the bike for a total of 4 hours. Shock off bike, cycling suspension and lots of creaking and cracking noises. I can feel it around the eccentric pivots. This being my 4th carbon bike, I can accept that carbon frames can be a bit noisy. However, I'm not sure this is going to work out to be a long-termer for me given the almost immediate attention required.

  84. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockinrod42 View Post
    I have loud creaking from my eccentric pivots. I have ridden the bike for a total of 4 hours. Shock off bike, cycling suspension and lots of creaking and cracking noises. I can feel it around the eccentric pivots. This being my 4th carbon bike, I can accept that carbon frames can be a bit noisy. However, I'm not sure this is going to work out to be a long-termer for me given the almost immediate attention required.
    My HD frame & Linkage have never creaked from day one, solid and quiet as any bike Ive ever owned and I like quiet bikes, noisy hubs in good way, but quiet bikes.

    Please Ibis do not used this system on the longer travel bikes like some have asked for, I'm sure though it can be sorted out for the Ripley seems a nice idea, but like all ideas they don't fit every application.

    Hope ya get it sorted rockinrod. They're is plenty of info in this thread if ya sift through it to help ya.

    Happy Trails
    Mav.

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    I had creaking on my Ripley. I determine it was coming from the shock mount pivots. I removed the shock, greased both pivot shafts (shaft to shock interface), and then reassembled. So far (six or seven rides later) no creaking. I do intend to do the yoke isolator addition at some stage though

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    Mav, I'm not going to waste my own time or coin playing around with it. I'll see what Ibis say tomorrow.

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    Creaking Ripley

    Quote Originally Posted by rockinrod42 View Post
    I have loud creaking from my eccentric pivots. I have ridden the bike for a total of 4 hours. Shock off bike, cycling suspension and lots of creaking and cracking noises. I can feel it around the eccentric pivots. This being my 4th carbon bike, I can accept that carbon frames can be a bit noisy. However, I'm not sure this is going to work out to be a long-termer for me given the almost immediate attention required.
    Settle down, there are a lot of people riding Ripleys without creaks, you'll get it figured out.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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    Yep, we'll figure something out. It just sucks it's creaking after ~ 4 hours riding. My other Ibis was silent.

  89. #89
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    Anyone having drive train related noises here? My frame seems to be silent through suspension movement, but the moment any power is transferred to the pedals it creaks badly.

    I've done the work - BB removed, shell cleaned, the entire frame was over hauled (minus new eccentric bearings, but frame is only 3 months old), I reinstalled the BB to no avail. I'm running an XT crank with a single ring. Standard Shimano pressfit BB. I've had a lot of work getting the bike dialed for me with problems not related to Ibis, so this is salt in the wounds for me.

    Ibis, do you recommend grease in the BB shell? I've always run Finish Line Teflon grease in all my BB fittings. Thing is that I'm not sure it's the BB, but again, only doing this under load. I'll try a new rear wheel in the AM...
    My one says BRAP!

  90. #90
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    I got skeptical on the Ripley when I demoed a medium for my spouse and the rear end was bottoming out on the water bottle cage. Bonghit engineering or ?

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    Creaking Ripley

    Ya, something was up with your demo. There are tons of happy Ripley owners loving their bike me included.

  92. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by plume View Post
    Anyone having drive train related noises here? My frame seems to be silent through suspension movement, but the moment any power is transferred to the pedals it creaks badly.

    I've done the work - BB removed, shell cleaned, the entire frame was over hauled (minus new eccentric bearings, but frame is only 3 months old), I reinstalled the BB to no avail. I'm running an XT crank with a single ring. Standard Shimano pressfit BB. I've had a lot of work getting the bike dialed for me with problems not related to Ibis, so this is salt in the wounds for me.

    Ibis, do you recommend grease in the BB shell? I've always run Finish Line Teflon grease in all my BB fittings. Thing is that I'm not sure it's the BB, but again, only doing this under load. I'll try a new rear wheel in the AM...
    Any difference if you sit down or stand up when applying power? If only when seated, it could originate from your saddle/seatpost...

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    Plume, check my post #77, I'm running full XT on mine and it sounds like we have similar issues. I found it to be the cassette on the free hub body. I removed the XT cassette, applied a thin layer of grease on the free hub body, and put the cassette back on. Tighted to spec, and no more creaking. Hope that solves it for you.

  94. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by freebiker View Post
    I got skeptical on the Ripley when I demoed a medium for my spouse and the rear end was bottoming out on the water bottle cage. Bonghit engineering or ?
    I would imagine it's the water bottle cage that was on the demo. Ibis recommends the Arundel side-loader. They have 2 sets of mounting holes for a lower position and a higher position. Mine will hit the swingarm by the eccentrics in the lower position, but it is fine in the higher position. In the higher position there is still room to get the bottle out.

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    Ditto @zeppman's post.

    I've had this and other creaks as well:
    1. Same issue with XX1 cassette/free hub. Fixed by re-grease and reinstall at proper torque. Note of caution: You can easily strip the XX1 cassette splines if you are not careful when removing Have your LBS remove so it's their fault if that happens. I had to have mine warrantied by SRAM because the splines stripped when torque was applied to remove the cassette from the freehub body.
    2. Rear wheel maxle - make sure it's very tight or you will get creaks on torque. I mean tight tight. Not just barely tight. Oh, and apply a thin layer of grease to the maxle as well.
    3. Swingarm pivot bearings alignment issue (very rare, warrantied by Ibis. Should not be a problem for most folks). Also swapped out the original eccentric cores with the newer gnar-cores. All stated, no clicking or noises from the frame or linkage that I can tell.
    4. Seat post creak - even with carbon paste. Only way to fix is to torque to 7Nm in my experience. 5Nm just results in creak and occasional slippage on hard bumps.
    5. Cables (knocking) - use new cable dice (I used a rubber zip tie and ran them external)
    6. Fork creak/tick - relatively new problem for me. First I thought it was my cane creek headset so I installed a $160 Chris King...to no avail. My LBS diagnosed it as a CSU issue with my fork that needs to be warrantied by Fox. I plan to call them but am first going to try the Loctite 290 trick discussed elsewhere.

    Only one of these bothersome noises can be attributed to Ibis, but still, what a pain in the rear for a 6K bike! The good news is that a 25$ set of head phones makes all clicks, creaks, and groans just disappear!

  96. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by zeppman View Post
    Plume, check my post #77, I'm running full XT on mine and it sounds like we have similar issues. I found it to be the cassette on the free hub body. I removed the XT cassette, applied a thin layer of grease on the free hub body, and put the cassette back on. Tighted to spec, and no more creaking. Hope that solves it for you.
    All,
    The basics have all been covered. It's not the seat post as I can isolate any saddle noise off the bike with a little tweek. It's making the noise seated, or standing and tends to start just a little bit into the ride. I tried a new rear wheel complete with different cassette, noise was gone. Re-installed my original rear wheel and the test ride on pavement showed no noise. I'm skeptical since the only thing I've done is basically removed and re-installed the rear wheel, regreasing the maxel (which was already lubed up). I'll report back once I get out to the trails again, unfortunately mother nature will not cooperate for trail riding this weekend.

    Only seems to be drivetrain related somehow but the noise is being amplified through the frame which makes it seem like carbon on carbon. Is there any chance that it could be the clevis bolt on the lower shock mount even if it's silent though it's movement w/out pedaling? I've already cleaned and re-installed all suspension hardware down to the bearing with fresh grease and a torque wrench.

    I need to ride it properly first. Will report then...

    Only one of these bothersome noises can be attributed to Ibis, but still, what a pain in the rear for a 6K bike! The good news is that a 25$ set of head phones makes all clicks, creaks, and groans just disappear!
    I'm certainly not convinced it's on Ibis or my work on the frame overhaul. I actually think tightening the maxel with an allen might help, makes for trail side repairs a little bit weighty in my pack but if it solves it, yay. I do need to check the original cassette, but it was recently installed and I always lightly coat the body with grease. The headphone solution is becoming more and more appealing.
    Last edited by plume; 07-19-2014 at 07:39 AM.
    My one says BRAP!

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    Quote Originally Posted by plume View Post
    Anyone having drive train related noises here? My frame seems to be silent through suspension movement, but the moment any power is transferred to the pedals it creaks badly.

    I've done the work - BB removed, shell cleaned, the entire frame was over hauled (minus new eccentric bearings, but frame is only 3 months old), I reinstalled the BB to no avail. I'm running an XT crank with a single ring. Standard Shimano pressfit BB. I've had a lot of work getting the bike dialed for me with problems not related to Ibis, so this is salt in the wounds for me.

    Ibis, do you recommend grease in the BB shell? I've always run Finish Line Teflon grease in all my BB fittings. Thing is that I'm not sure it's the BB, but again, only doing this under load. I'll try a new rear wheel in the AM...
    So I had to make an update since I'm feeling confident now on the source of the noise. First, it's a loud frame to begin with, for what ever reason, and it's still noisier than some bikes I've ridden. Think most of this is cable related though. After over tightening the clevis bolt (to remove a little play) all noises were canceled. In complete fairness I'm pretty sure most of the noise was generated from worn SPD cleats. Since I've switched that out, the bike has remained fairly noise free. I use the same shoes for road and mountain and since they are noise free on my Hakkalugi I just assumed that they were fine... doh!

    An embarrassing realization for sure, but hey, we all want our fancy bikes to be perfect.

    Thanks Ibis for a great bike. I'd buy it again in a heartbeat. Propelled me to first today at an endurance race, yippe!
    My one says BRAP!

  98. #98
    aka dan51
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    Figured I'd throw my creaking experience in here.
    5 months of noise free riding then it started suddenly.
    I pulled the entire suspension apart and found the upper eccentric would make a little creak when spinning it by hand. I pulled it apart and cleaned and greased it, along with all the other parts down there. That stopped the clicking sound when rotating the upper eccentric by hand. Assembled it all and the creaking was still there on the next ride.
    Last night I pulled apart the rear hub, I9 Torch, and cleaned and greased it. With the wheel off, I also pulled off the rear der hanger and cleaned and greased the frame interface. Today I had a squeak and creak free ride. Pure bliss again.

    Thinking back, the noise all started after the bike got rained on while driving to Bend a few weeks ago. Until then it was good.
    I think the issue was the hub. My old Hope Pro2 would always creak after getting wet, like clockwork.

    Hope that helps someone.

  99. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by quisp View Post
    Another guy with the same Ripley problems:
    Exclusive: Dream Bikes-the Extended Version
    Ouch, I am sure his judgement is not clouded. But isn't he the head of marketing for Santa Cruz? Great bikes, I own two currently and one more in the past, but THE most hyped and over marketed company in the business in my opinion. Maybe too close to home? It sounds like a legit review and the guys in the Santa Cruz area (Ibis included) are all pretty tight and good to each other. But I've heard SC guys bashing Ibis about flexy frames from Day 1 of the Mojo. Just too familiar of a refrain. It may be the case, I'll just look for someone else to tell me than the guy who works his tail off to keep Ibis from cannibalizing his own sales.

  100. #100
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    yeap!! it happens.

    Well It happened to me too, eight months old and about 130 ridding hours, the creaking noise!!, buy the the way, AN OUTSTANDING BIKE!!, just replaced all bearings, greased, locktited, carbon gunked, the noise seems to have disappeared, waiting for the weekend...
    Last edited by ferolo; 10-01-2014 at 07:18 PM. Reason: spelling

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