Considering an HDR, had some questions
Let me start by say I did search. I entered all kinds of keywords like HDR, SLR etc and it returns nothing even though I can see title with HDR and SLR in them.
I started looking at Ibis for the HDR, but, I mainly ride XC/Trail. I weigh between 190-210 during the season.
The more I've read I've starting thinking about a SLR 650B to bring weight down.
I will say a new resort has opened close to me, so I'll be riding lift assisted downhills maybe 4-5 days a summer. That said this is east coast and this place looks a little tame compared to somewhere like Snowshoe
Here's the new place: Bryce Resort- New Mountain Bike Park
Bryce Mountain Bike Park - Bryce Resort
So I was wondering if it's worth the weight saving of the SLR or should I just go with the HDR, I didn't see an weight on the HDR frame, so I'm not sure how much of a difference there is.
Also, if I go with the HDR, I like that you can upgrade to a CCDBA, but again after reading on here you can get the frame from Bikeco with a custom tune shock
The CCDBA makes the frame $2967 or $2725 with bikeco's custom tuned shock. I worry about being able to tune the CCDBA properly.
Not having ever rideen or owned an Ibis just looking for advice from current owners.
Ibis Mojo 3
Carver 420 TI
Lenz Lunchbox punkass
I ride an HD, for all practical purposes fairly close spec wise to an HDR.
I can tell you that the HD doubles as a XC bike, no problem. While maybe not the most ideal, it's flexibility is unmatched. which is something it sounds like you are looking for. I change shocks on it to go from short travel (140mm or so) to long travel (160mm) depending on the trails I'll be riding that day. As the trails within a 50 mile range can vary greatly here in Nor-Cal.
It climbs really well. On nasty, rutted, steep sections of climbs out here in the East Bay Area where some of those climbs can easily measure 26 degrees. The HD is able to clear sections I was never able to clear with my previous bikes. It's a fantastic descender too, but you already know that : ) And as we all know, anywhere where you have to climb a lot usually translates to a lot of fast descending which is where this bike really shines.
As far as weight, You can build it into the mid 25lb range (or mid 26lb range with a dropper) and it's stiff as heck, stiffer than the SL-R , which is probably more noticeable with heavier riders.
Tuning wise, you'll have to start experimenting to find whats going to work for you. One change at a time is the best advice I can give you. Once you make a change, take it for a good long ride and see how that affects the characteristics of the bike. No one is going to be able to tune the bike for you, they'll get it close but in the end its going to come down to your personal preferences. But you'll get it down, so don't sweat that too much. Once you get the bike you'll have time to figure all that out. it's half the fun. I'm still figuring mine out
I guess it's going to come down to the weight saving of the SL-R vs the flexibility of the HD(-R). But at your weight level, I'm betting you lose that much water weight on your ride. Also cost may play a factor too. Which one can you get the best deal on? I know that certainly helped my decision.
Proof HD's can climb as well as descend : )
Mt Diablo Summit @ 3864 feet
Last edited by crconsulting; 07-12-2013 at 02:28 PM.
Go HDR. Don't look back.
I've owned and ridden a crap ton of bikes over the years, and several Ibis. I was on an SL for a long time, then an HD. There are a lot of decent bikes, but for me and my riding, Ibis makes the best bikes on the planet, and they've proven it over several bikes that I've loved.
Originally Posted by TwoTone
The HD is just an incredible riding bike. As strange as it sounds, the HD feels like it's a better climbing bike then my SL was, and going down it's no contest: the HD just KILLS it. The HD-R even more so.
It's just a super fun, flickable, point and shoot kind of bike, with a world of different tuning & setup options available, and even more now with the HD-R.
If you said you were doing more XC and buff trail riding I'd think maybe you could justify the SL-R or Ripley (both great bikes!) but for me the HD-R is just the perfect definition of what a great Do It All mountain bike should be.
Not answering your original question, but since it comes up all the time. Searching in MTBR blows, and 3 letter words are ignored... so don't try to find that XTR crankset or SLR Ibis frame! Trick? Use google like this:
ibis HD SL-R site:forums.mtbr.com/ibis
use as much or as little of the URL as you want to restrict it. (I used the Ibis forum url in that example )
If weight is of the utmost concern, you will want an SLR. If versatility is your primary concern, I would recommend an HDR. I currently ride an HD and am absolutely content riding it for anything from XC to lift assisted type riding. The DW Link works so well that pedaling is plenty efficient for me. Having 160mm travel may seem like overkill for an XC ride, but it pedals so well, I never hesitate to take it out over my hard tail.
In regards to the rear shock, I do not run either of the configurations that you are looking at, but would recommend talking to the Bike Co. Joe and the crew their know suspension and will be able to guide you. I've heard a lot of great things about the shocks that they have configured for HD's and it seems like they have a good handle on the HDR (if you're going 650b). It sounds like you are looking for a set and forget type setup, which would lead me to steer you away from a CCDB.
In the end, I am confident you will like either bike and shock configuration, so don't get analysis paralysis! Rather, buy one and ride the snot out of it.
My recommendation would be the HD-R. Rear shock is a personal preference, but I would say anything but the standard RP23. Several of my friends run the RS Monarch Plus, a few on the BikeCo Marz rear and another on the XFusion. Everyone loves what they run so I don't think you can go wrong with the choices you mentioned.
HD-R - 650B rear tire clearance and 650B geometry. Both geo and clearance will be an issue with the SLR. HD-R frame is ~400g heavier.
I'd get the DB Air (ideally the new CS) if you want to hit bigger trails and a Bike Co Marz if you're mainly trail riding. The CC base tune makes it pretty simple to setup the DB Air.
No shortage of guys running DB Airs on HDs and now HDRs to get other guys settings or help you with settings. More a question of what shock fits your riding. What fork are you going to use?
Planning on really getting one. Coming from a mojo c, what can I expect from hd-r and I'm 5'6" tall should I try a medium instead? By the way my mojo c is setup with a 160 fox float 36 and 1x10 xt drivetrain. I'm just planning to get the frame. will my drivetrain fit in the hd-r including my mrp mini g chainguide?
What 650b geo? I thought it hadn't changed?...
Originally Posted by seleniak
I went though a long decision process myself and because my frame has been delayed because of the new HD-R announcement have had the ability to change my order along the way. I've been pretty happy with a 140mm travel bike over the last 6 years. So when I started looking for a new bike the SL-R was on my radar, I demoed one and absolutely loved it, was not in love with the press in Bottom bracket though. So I started to think the HD-140 was the way to go as I tend to break lots of frames, a beefier frame without much weight penalty seemed to be the right solution in my head, so I ordered a frame. Then the HD-R was announced, IBIS changed my order to that as they stopped shipping the HD's. I was excited about the all the flexibility the new frame had, but not super stoked about losing some rear end travel (looks like now you can order the 160 version and limit the travel of that to get 140-145 of rear end travel). Recently the IBIS demo tour came though and I tried out an HD-160 since they did not have a HD-R in XL to try. I was blown away by how well it climbed and on the way down, oh so nice!
The Frame weight difference between the SL-R an an HD-R is 1 pound, and the difference in fork weight between a float 32 140 and a float 34 160 is about 1/3 of a pound. So for less than 1 1/2 pounds difference you get a hell of a lot more bike, plus you get the flexibility of changing it out to lots of different configurations 26"/650b/travel differences, it's one hell of a flexible platform.
I now have a HD-R 160 on order, and drinking a few less beers a week to make up for that 1 1/3 pound difference
Considering an HDR, had some questions
Same geo as the HD at 160, lower with the new chips than the HD140. Had assumed he was thinking 650B chips and a shimmed shock. If not its a wash.
Originally Posted by Dibbs_
Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic
- Arthur C. Clarke
Picking my HD up from the BikeCo next Wednesday. These guys know what they're talking about with anything Ibis related. I'm having them convert my Talas 36 to a Float with the Fox Pro tune. I'm also having them install their tuned Marz rear shock to have my suspension super dialed. Great customer service at their store and it's remarkable how thorough they are with their rider assessement. Stoked to test this thing out next week!
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