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  1. #1
    Compulsive Bike Builder
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    Carbon Mojo rear tire max size?

    What is the biggest rear tire someone has successfully stuffed in the back of a Mojo Carbon? Will a 2.3 with real side knobs make it back there? I would try it myself, but my number has not come up in the Mojo lottery yet, so I have to live vicariously through the owners in this forum.
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  2. #2
    Downunder Mojophile
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    Quote Originally Posted by DirtDad
    What is the biggest rear tire someone has successfully stuffed in the back of a Mojo Carbon? Will a 2.3 with real side knobs make it back there? I would try it myself, but my number has not come up in the Mojo lottery yet, so I have to live vicariously through the owners in this forum.
    I have run 2.35 Nevegals without problems. Still reasonable clearance.

  3. #3
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    My true to measure 2.4 inch WTB Motoraptors and Mutanoraptors on 28mm DT Swiss 5.1D rims fit with plenty to spare for mud clearance. Any 2.5 should fit easily.

  4. #4
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    Agree on the megevals - but not much sticky mud clearance with them. Dry and clean there is about 10mm of daylight either side at the rear. Could go much fatter at the front...

  5. #5
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    New question here.

    I'm running the standard 2.1 Nevegals, but tried a 2,35 Hasventure last night off my old bike. It fits, but there isn't much clearance on the non-drive side (3mm). On the drive side however there's heap more, at least 10mm. I only really looked a clearance to the chain stays, not the seat-stays or arch above it.

    So what's the deal here, are the mojos supposed to have an asmyetrical fit at the rear?
    Last edited by jacko69; 06-18-2007 at 04:26 PM.

  6. #6
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    Agreed, also asym on my bike (clearly a "feature" as its unlikely that the carbon swingarm has been warped).

  7. #7
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    Dish?

    I am presuming you have checked the wheel for dish?
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  8. #8
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    New question here.

    Quote Originally Posted by DirtDad
    I am presuming you have checked the wheel for dish?
    Can't say I know how to do that exactly. I have checked and measured the chain line, and it's OK. Plus using the wheel off my Giant Reign gave the same results on the Mojo. So are all mojos the same or not?

  9. #9
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    Same for me with the asymetrical wheel fit. I am running 2.4 ADventure tires and there is only a few mm clearance on the non-drive side, while there is plenty clearance on the drive side.

    What is weird, is on my previous bike (Blur classic) with the same wheels, I didn't have enough clearance on the drive side, while having several mm on the non-drive side.

    I would think dishing the wheels to even the clearance out on the Mojo would be a bad thing, since that would make the drive side spokes even less angled, while increasing the angle on the non-drive side spokes. But then I'm not an expert wheel builder.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacko69
    Can't say I know how to do that exactly. I have checked and measured the chain line, and it's OK. Plus using the wheel off my Giant Reign gave the same results on the Mojo. So are all mojos the same or not?
    To check your dish. First take a measurement of the distance from one side of the rim to the chain stay or seat stay (or fork leg for front wheel, they are also dished for disk brake hubs). Pull the wheel out and mount it backwards. Measure from the same side of the stay you previously measured from. The measurement should be equal with wheel mounted in both directions for perfect wheel center dish.

    If it's off by a couple or maybe three mm's it would not be a performance problem, but more than that and the bike will “crab” off line with more tire drag and not handle with very good balance.

    I build and true my own wheels and it is not possible to have machine perfect true wheels, but you can get very close, within 1mm of perfect true and dish, except if the rim is bent (then you compromise trueness if the rim isn't too kinked because the tire is never perfect anyway).

    You can true and dish your wheels using your bike measuring from the stays, but using a cheepo truing stand is much quicker and easier.

    To build your own wheels, copy the patter of another wheel. The DT Swiss web site has a spoke calculator that is very accurate for finding correct spoke length for most hubs and rims available. You won't save much money if any compared to getting a wheel built by some low cost on-line builder like universalcycles.com or coloradocycles.com. You will save hundreds from some big name wheel builders. The low cost custom builders do often send out poorly tensioned and poorly trued wheels so you do need to check them for dish and true when received.

    There is a great feeling of satisfaction learning about wheels by building and maintaining them yourself.

  11. #11
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    New question here.

    Quote Originally Posted by derby
    To check your dish. First take a measurement of the distance from one side of the rim to the chain stay or seat stay (or fork leg for front wheel, they are also dished for disk brake hubs). Pull the wheel out and mount it backwards. Measure from the same side of the stay you previously measured from. The measurement should be equal with wheel mounted in both directions for perfect wheel center dish.

    If it's off by a couple or maybe three mm's it would not be a performance problem, but more than that and the bike will “crab” off line with more tire drag and not handle with very good balance.

    I build and true my own wheels and it is not possible to have machine perfect true wheels, but you can get very close, within 1mm of perfect true and dish, except if the rim is bent (then you compromise trueness if the rim isn't too kinked because the tire is never perfect anyway).

    You can true and dish your wheels using your bike measuring from the stays, but using a cheepo truing stand is much quicker and easier.

    To build your own wheels, copy the patter of another wheel. The DT Swiss web site has a spoke calculator that is very accurate for finding correct spoke length for most hubs and rims available. You won't save much money if any compared to getting a wheel built by some low cost on-line builder like universalcycles.com or coloradocycles.com. You will save hundreds from some big name wheel builders. The low cost custom builders do often send out poorly tensioned and poorly trued wheels so you do need to check them for dish and true when received.

    There is a great feeling of satisfaction learning about wheels by building and maintaining them yourself.
    Thanks for that info Derby, I'll check it out as soon as I get time.

    On the subject though, are all Mojos have an asymetrical in this respect (assuming a properly dished wheel)?

  12. #12
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    Wheel dish

    Quote Originally Posted by jacko69
    Thanks for that info Derby, I'll check it out as soon as I get time.

    On the subject though, are all Mojos have an asymetrical in this respect (assuming a properly dished wheel)?
    My rear wheel is only about by 0.5mm at max...almost perfect.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacko69
    Thanks for that info Derby, I'll check it out as soon as I get time.

    On the subject though, are all Mojos have an asymetrical in this respect (assuming a properly dished wheel)?
    The carbon frames are from molds so I would assume they are all the same.

    Mine is not quite even side to side, but there is still room for a 2.5 tire in dry conditions, both in side to side and in height clearance. 2.4 size has been no problem for me in muddy conditions.

    I think every mountain bike I've owned in 25+ years has had slightly asymmetrical chainstay clearance, mostly tighter on the crank side to clear them.

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