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  1. #1
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    Anyone running an HD140 with 160 fork?

    Hi all,

    Just wondering if anyone is running a 160 fork on a HD140 and if so how do you find it?.

    I currently have an HD140 with a Fox Float 32 150 FIT RLC fork but am going to sell the 32 and upgrade to a stiffer fork being the Fox Float 34 160 CTD.

    I can either.....

    A) - Keep my bike as a 140 and have the travel reduced in the fork to 150mm which will leave me with the same setup I have now but with a stiffer front end.

    B) - Keep the 140 shock and leave the fork at 160 but also buy a HD160 rear shock & limbo chips and switch between the two depending on where I am riding.

    I would really like to go with option B but it will mean that I will have to ride the bike in 140 mode with a 160 fork, so really interested in in seeing if anyone else is running one? Could maybe run slightly more sag in the fork when using 140 shock?

    Any comments/advice appreciated.

    Thanks.

  2. #2
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    I have a Mojo C and an HD, I took the shock of the C and put it on the HD with the right chips to make it a HD140. I couldn't be bothered changing the forks so I just left the lyrick rc2dh 170 on it. I really liked the bike setup like this, as my old rp23 had been pushed and had a big hit kit added. I could jump much harder than with the 160mm rp23 kashima and not bottom it out. The slack head angle was nice at bike parks too.
    Eventually I just bought a ccdb air and went back 160 all the time includeing more xc type rides.

  3. #3
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    You'll be fine running 140 rear and 160 front. I did that for a while while I was shoping around for a rear shock to make it 160 front and back. Once I got a 160 rear shock I relized that the 160 and 140 mode almost climb the same, but the 140 felt much more harsh in rougher trails. You'll probably end up just leaving the bike in 160 mode front and back like I have.

  4. #4
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    I tried it and it felt terrible. I wouldnt recommend it.

  5. #5
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    Keep in mind that 160mm fork is 27mm higher than 150mm due to different platform design. Saying that I started with 160 on my Mojo C and it was OK. However now I'm running it at 130 setting which is matching height of 147mm in 32 platform and the bike is much more balanced. With Mojo HD being slacker by 1degree I would imagine it would be even more out of tune with full blown 160.
    I used to run tubes like you are, but then I got thorn in my wheel.

  6. #6
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    I rode my HD like that most of last season, Fox 36 160 (my fork for the past 3 bikes), and 140 rear. I planned to lower my fork, but ended up just buying a CCDB air for this season and keeping it the same.

    140r 160f worked great all around since it doesn't change the geo, only swapping forks changes the bike's geo. However depending on the terrain I was riding it felt like my front end and rear end had different max speeds. Meaning, max speed before I started to lose predictability and control.
    Evil Undead & a box of trail bike parts waiting for a new frame

  7. #7
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    Option 2

    New (old return of) the PIKE, rockshox

    I also did not like my HD with 140 in rear and running my Fox 34 @ 160 it just felt unbalanced at speed, great going down but not as nice cornering and definitely not climbing.

    I finally got mine spaced correctly to 150mm and its great at 150mm, but now Ive had allot of time on the HD Im very under whelmed or unimpressed with the Fox damper, AGAIN.

    I have had some tuning done internally to improve support in the mid-stroke to try to hold the fork up from diving etc, this has worked to some degree, but sacrificing small bump compliance not what upu want in a high end fork.

    Something the new PIKE according to RS say they do well, guess time will tell.

    Fox imo have a sweet spot for riders who don't charge and are light to mid weight under 80kgs maybe more like 70kgs ime.

    The only Foxs I have got on well is my 2012 Fox 40rc2 and 12 RC4.
    Every other Fox Ive owned including 36 Floats Vans have suffered this same issue for me, Im Pretty over having to get stuff tuned aftermarket at the price they ask, I don't mind paying for tuning etc if the price is comparative to the performance I know a standard setting isn't going to suit everyone, but when you pay high end I expect high end performance.

    What I like about reading this new Pike is the TOKEN to adjust the progressiveness.

    [Qoute: RockShox's threaded Bottomless Tokens should make tuning the forks spring rate easy].

    Also service ability sounds allot easy as well as travel reduction, seems like RS have given this fork and its consumes some real thought.

    So some more good options in the market hopefully, RS, XFusion which seem hard to get at present, course the RS is still a month away and then purchase might still be a ways off as well.

    The PIKE sounds good anyway and also has better simpler travel adjust options than the Fox 34 Float which is a right PIA especially if you need high spring rates as the negative spring which is non adjustable can mess the travel spacers up as mine did, we ended up putting in 2 spacers to get it to 150 at 90 psi for my required spring rate.

    Fox manual says the air spring is adjust up to 110psi in std form now way.

    If you do go Fox 34 measure youre stanchion length to check you do have the travel you think you have reduced it to.
    Last edited by Maverick005; 04-04-2013 at 01:05 PM.

  8. #8
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    you can tune fox air springs with float fluid for progressivety.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yody View Post
    you can tune fox air springs with float fluid for progressivety.
    Done that, still not the best solution it improves it allot but still not as good I would like it, RS token or shims or even the new 14 Fox 40 Float has optional negative springs to fine tune, this is what ctd trail forks need.

  10. #10
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    I use a u-turn coil with 125 - 170mm infinite adjust travel range with both the HD 140 and 160 set ups, adjusted in travel on-the-fly or trail-side as the speed and steepness conditions vary.

    Yes it does add 1/2 to 1 lb over the lighter single height air forks with 160mm travel. I can't feel 1 lb difference of suspended weight while riding. I need to lose more than 1 lb of weight before my bike does!

    Also coil is so smooth and has great mid travel support without over damping.

  11. #11
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    Thanks very much for the input fellas.

    I think perhaps I may look at the new RS Pike 35 150 fork and just stay 140mm in the rear. I really like the bike as a 140 as it handles amazingly and its still miles more capable than what my riding ability is. To be honest I really don't think I need a 160mm travel bike.

    The only reason why I am looking to try the 160 is that I bottom out the rear fairly easy if set at 30% sag unless Im doing more xc type riding but as soon as I doing anything which is a bit more agressive like or jumping I bottom out the rear. If I reduce the sag to prevent frequent bottom out then the bike just starts to feel a bit hard in the rear for my liking. Pretty happy with rebound as it is which was advised to me by Hans, its just the compression ramp up which seems to just blow through its travel quite easy.

    Perhaps the factory RP23 could be tuned in a way to help out? I'm not sure, I'm reasonably new to MTBing and don't know a heck of a lot about the internal workings of shocks & forks so its a bit hard for me to know what to do.

    I am definitely going to get a stiffer fork though and I am really liking the idea of the RS Pike being 35mm and available at 150mm travel, where as if I were to purchase the Fox 34 160 I would have to stuff around having to get the travel reduced but to be honest I don't really want to spend anymore money on Fox products due to soo many problems me and my friends have had with their products but thats another story.

    Maybe I should get the RS Pike 150 and a Monarch Plus for the rear to go with it? any thoughts?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Accident Prone View Post
    Thanks very much for the input fellas.

    I am definitely going to get a stiffer fork though and I am really liking the idea of the RS Pike being 35mm and available at 150mm travel, where as if I were to purchase the Fox 34 160 I would have to stuff around having to get the travel reduced but to be honest I don't really want to spend anymore money on Fox products due to soo many problems me and my friends have had with their products but thats another story.

    Maybe I should get the RS Pike 150 and a Monarch Plus for the rear to go with it? any thoughts?
    For NZ conditions and the local support the RS Monarch Plus and Pike 35 is a really good option imo.

    We cant get PUSH tunes easily here unless you have a freind stateside that can send it in and back for you.

    Its one of 2 options Im considering, I really want to give XFusion a try but only for 160mm option, but Im pretty over my Float 160 @ 150 mm its plenty stiff no issue with the chassis and finish is excellent, just dampening is not good enough for my riding style and weight.

    Saying that I got a great ride in today in RotoVegas AP, warm up on Katore jumps, bit of HotX, Dragons Tail, Be Rude, Upper jumps on Corridor into the Spice run, few jumps and whips lower down off into & home, trails mint after a bit of rain here, badly needed.

  13. #13
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    Nice one Maverick!, yeah man Vegas was dry as a bone last time I was there and most of the common trails were really starting to fall to bits with braking bumps and ruts and holes in berms etc, have they done any work on the shuttle trails? I love the top section of Corridor and Tokorangi, definitely one of my favourites. Haven't got the ability to play on and decent jumps yet as still learning eh but love the trails! Did the Moerangi trail 3 weeks ago too and man that was dusty as!!

    I think I will wait till the RS Pike comes in to NZ along with the new Monarch plus and then talk to Rick at Krankin Cycles in Taupiri who is supposed to be a suspension tuning guru. I have heard a lot of good things about him so will start there.

    I got plenty of time on my hands to rip the Fox stuff out and sell it off as I'm not able to ride again till September at the earliest as I have just had shoulder surgery (result of a crash last year). Will give the bike a good tidy up while its out of action and hopefully hit the trails with some new suspension. Will be keen to catch up with you for a ride sometime when I am able.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Accident Prone View Post
    Nice one Maverick!, yeah man Vegas was dry as a bone last time I was there and most of the common trails were really starting to fall to bits with braking bumps and ruts and holes in berms etc, have they done any work on the shuttle trails? I love the top section of Corridor and Tokorangi, definitely one of my favourites. Haven't got the ability to play on and decent jumps yet as still learning eh but love the trails! Did the Moerangi trail 3 weeks ago too and man that was dusty as!!

    I think I will wait till the RS Pike comes in to NZ along with the new Monarch plus and then talk to Rick at Krankin Cycles in Taupiri who is supposed to be a suspension tuning guru. I have heard a lot of good things about him so will start there.

    I got plenty of time on my hands to rip the Fox stuff out and sell it off as I'm not able to ride again till September at the earliest as I have just had shoulder surgery (result of a crash last year). Will give the bike a good tidy up while its out of action and hopefully hit the trails with some new suspension. Will be keen to catch up with you for a ride sometime when I am able.
    Not ridden the shuttle trails for awhile not since Enduro, broke a couple of ribs 4-6 weeks back, just been doing recovery rides till today.

    Rude was braking bumps everywhere, Corridor upper is getting a make over by that trail adoptee, Katore been getting some work also, HotX was sweet, Ill check out the other side next week, but expect it to still be pretty blown out except for the native, got a trail working bee tomorrow to fix up some of Te Ara Puna, runs off Dragons Tail, some berm work, maybe tidy up the end gapper.

    Bummer about your injury, they suck, great you got Moerangi, I was nailed by a massive fern over the trail on Moonshine came up over a blind rise nearly got pulled off the bike went over a 6ft bank with chest going straight into my stem and bars typical just had a smoking run down from Tu hoto Billy T and Rollercoaster too, oh well thems the breaks aye.

    Yeah sounds like a plan, we get Sram stuff here quite early so expect we should have them here next month, we were months ahead on XX1.

    But no rush you should here of a few independant reviews by the time youre ready too.

    Def give us a buzz next time ya down keen for a ride, show you some loops.

  15. #15
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    you can always tune the rear shocks air volume to help with bottom out when running deeper sag. Pretty common thing to do these days. Not sure if you're running a small can already, or not

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yody View Post
    you can always tune the rear shocks air volume to help with bottom out when running deeper sag. Pretty common thing to do these days. Not sure if you're running a small can already, or not
    Yes, try this with your HD160 set up if you are having harsh bottoming with your air shock.

    Air volume reduction effectively increases air spring ramp up rate near bottom travel, to reduce and eliminate harsh bottoming, with minimal change to smaller bump compliance. Your bike shop can order an air volume reduction kit from Fox for about US$25 and install it. It's easy to install yourself too in about 10 to 15 minutes following the instructions. The kit has a few volume reduction options to tune just enough bottom resistance and not too much. And the kit works with all Fox air shock sizes.

  17. #17
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    Works on any air shock, any frame

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by derby View Post
    Yes, try this with your HD160 set up if you are having harsh bottoming with your air shock.

    Air volume reduction effectively increases air spring ramp up rate near bottom travel, to reduce and eliminate harsh bottoming, with minimal change to smaller bump compliance. Your bike shop can order an air volume reduction kit from Fox for about US$25 and install it. It's easy to install yourself too in about 10 to 15 minutes following the instructions. The kit has a few volume reduction options to tune just enough bottom resistance and not too much. And the kit works with all Fox air shock sizes.
    Yes! +1
    Yody and Derby beat me to it..... easiest, cheapest, most effective upgrade to RP23's that are too linear.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yody View Post
    you can always tune the rear shocks air volume to help with bottom out when running deeper sag. Pretty common thing to do these days. Not sure if you're running a small can already, or not
    Yep I have the standard small can that came with the frame as a 140 setup from new. Will this make any difference?

    Will reducing the air volume give a similar feel to the shock as if I were to increase shock pressure and run less sag? say 25% sag instead of 30%? giving it a firmer feel? because that's what I want to avoid.

    Thanks

  20. #20
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    From what I understand it will do the opposite - allow you to run less air in the shock without blowing through the travel as quickly. the new lower volume of the air can should translate into a quicker ramp-up. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong...
    ride, eat, sleep, repeat

  21. #21
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    You're exactly right... lower pressure, more sag, better small bump absorption along with better ramp up and bottom out support.

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