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  1. #51
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    Get a cadence meter...best thing I ever did. 90-95RPM is a good target for endurance. Then when you hit a big climb there's gas left in the tank for more power.

    Sorry for hijacking.

  2. #52
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    After being with SRAM for about 10 years have become smitten with Shimano again,and have now converted most of my bikes back after dismal results with brake dependability derailleurs are fragile and need more constant care then Shimano overall.although am tempted by the XX1 and support innovation and can get it at cost I see know real advantage or need to alter the gearing range I currently enjoy for all of my needs,38t-26t Xt triple with bashgard 11x36 cassette.

  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwt View Post
    As my entire post said "ride what you like"

    I still have my 26" SS. If I want to grind a big gear climbing, I can. I put "a normal" sized ring on my 26" 1X9 (32T) for the greater efficiency while climbing in a lower gear. On the other hand, while hammering, I rarely spin out the 32:11. On my SS, I frequently spin out 32:17

    Everybody is different. I have been in many arguments with "pedal harder" 29'er folks who insist they have no problem riding bigger hoops with gearing designed for smaller hoops.

    Not me. Whatever floats your boat.
    No worries, it's all good. I am definitely not the strongest rider out there, just forced myself to do it.

  4. #54
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    Its bloody good

    That 42t on the rear is a get out of jail card on the climbs :-)

    Its sooooooooo quite, also loved moving the reverb to the left and under the bar.

    It's funny at first; when you'd normally switch from granny to middle, you automatically go for the left trigger, but now it's a couple of clicks on the right.


    goes to 11 by jamesfergie, on Flickr


    goes to 11 by jamesfergie, on Flickr

  5. #55
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    Toons101 that's a killer bike/XX1 combo. What chain ring you running up front?

    Ibis soooooo needs to make a dedicated 650B triangle for the HD.

    I've put the bug into the ear of North Shore Billet to make an XX1 spider that you can attach a bash guard to. They're slammed with stuff through the end of the year but I'll follow up with him in January.
    2013 Banshee Spitfire V2 650b

  6. #56
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    Toons101 that's a killer bike/XX1 combo. What chain ring you running up front?

    Ibis soooooo needs to make a dedicated 650B triangle for the HD.

    I've put the bug into the ear of North Shore Billet to make an XX1 spider that you can attach a bash guard to. They're slammed with stuff through the end of the year but I'll follow up with him in January.
    2013 Banshee Spitfire V2 650b

  7. #57
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    It’s better with the CCDB

    30t up front

    I also tried the RP23 shim but its still pants compared to the CCDB


    goes to 11 by jamesfergie, on Flickr

  8. #58
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    I have a 32t currently, too easy Im used to single rings been running 10spd 33t x 11/36 all year till the XX1, going to go to a 34t up front, def nice to have that 42t rear, the speed and precision of the shifting blows me away, Ive run every gen X0, ridden every gen XTR and this is incredible, Ive been able to change and instantly put the power down which also seems to suit the HD and just take off, so much is the confidence in the drivetrain and speed and that was from the first ride session which lasted a good 3hrs.



    Also the one piece cassette is insanely stiff and stunning.
    Last edited by Maverick005; 12-17-2012 at 05:34 PM.

  9. #59
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    Awesome builds. I have mine on order now, but it is out of stock at the distributors until mid January. Love the fact that I get more top end speed with some climbing gears and still 1x!

  10. #60
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    Just FYI

    XX1 comes as std with a 32t front ring, so if you want a smaller or larger you have to get another, might be different in other countries, but they don't swap out here, so looks like another $150.00 nzds in the New Year.

  11. #61
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    How much is the entire xx1 drive train? I believe that doesn't come with the rear hub right?

  12. #62
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    Mines in NZD currency, $1650 I think mine came i at.

    I had to buy a new rear hub, my CK was not XX1 driver hub shell compatible so it cost me on top of that for a DT 240 rear hub, and wheel rebuild.

    I needed a new drive train anyway complete so her even if I did do a new group set, cranks etc I wouldn't have saved much so apart from the hub and rebuild it was easy to justify, after riding it it's even easier.

  13. #63
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    I'm really interested in the xx1 setup. I'm currently running my HD as 1x10 xtr with the Ibis hd specific mrp chain guide. I wonder if the xx1 would work with my existing xtr cranks and chain guide? I still want to run a chain guide since I tend to bash the guard a lot and need the protection for the chain ring? I would want to save money and keep my cranks and guide if possible. Any one try this?

  14. #64
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    I don't believe it will work with your XTR cranks because of the specific chain which is matched with the front chainring. The magic in the setup is that the width of the front ring teeth alternate with the thickness of the chain. Might be worth a shot though. For most applications (read as us) a chain guide is not required, but I can understand the bash guard. Jerome Clements did ride a guide for the Mega Avalanche race, but claims he has never dropped a chain without it either. My plan is to only use my e13 for racing and run it without the rest of the time.

    Price in the US is $1250 without the rear cassette and it can only be ordered with the 32T front ring. Spare rings run about $100.

  15. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by fuenstock View Post
    I'm really interested in the xx1 setup. I'm currently running my HD as 1x10 xtr with the Ibis hd specific mrp chain guide. I wonder if the xx1 would work with my existing xtr cranks and chain guide? I still want to run a chain guide since I tend to bash the guard a lot and need the protection for the chain ring? I would want to save money and keep my cranks and guide if possible. Any one try this?
    You guys really need to read these threads properly, yes you can use a guide but not any guide, XX1 is ALL designed ground up its not compatible really with any other brand or components, thats defeating what it is about, just need to read the info, this group is not about cost saving up front, I believe it will save costs in the longer run, time will tell, did when I went 1x 9 and 1x10.

    Cheers.

  16. #66
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    Here, read through this linked info. Works with some other setups.

    SRAM XX1 cranks and 10 speed

    The clutch spring is so dam strong on the XX1 you don't need a guide (at least with the proper XX1 ring). A bash would be very nice however. I've been in touch with North Shore Billet about this issue and he had an XX1 crank on his desk today. I would expect to see a replacement spider from them that has a provision to mount a bash ring in the not to distant future. Maybe Sram will do it also at some point but do they really think people wouldn't want to protect that $$$ ring/chain combo even if it is really small and less likely to be hit? I'd figure out a way for sure to smack it. Give me a bash please.
    2013 Banshee Spitfire V2 650b

  17. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by timex99 View Post
    How much is the entire xx1 drive train? I believe that doesn't come with the rear hub right?
    No rear hub included with the group, you'll have to sort that out yourself.

    I paid $1001 for my full XX1 (BB30/Q168/170MM/Trigger) groupset on ebay a couple of days ago.

  18. #68
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    Looking into this upgrade. I have the 1st generation HD with the 135x12 rear thru axle (later HD's have 142x12). I cannot find a DT Swiss XX1 conversion kit for 135x12. All I can find are 142x12, 135x10, and 135 QR kits. The kit contains the freehub body and the drive-side end cap, so it seems I would need a kit with the proper end cap for 135x12.

    Anyone using XX1 on the 1st generation HD with the 135x12 thru axle?

  19. #69
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    Hmm, just finished reading Decline magazine's review o this product. They think its awesome. I am still learning and loving. My new 2x10 to think about switching.

    However, what I found interesting about the magazine article is this: they quote SRAM as claiming the special chain for the system will last FOUR times as long as a traditional chain.

  20. #70
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    The benefits to a single ring drive train will become more clear once it trickles down to X0, X9, XX1 must have exceeded all Srams sales expectations, its mind blowing how good this is.

    Having run single ring for years and dual rings before that, Im blown away by the range, Ive been pedalling up breaks that normally bore me to tears and drain my will like life sucking vampires, now I find myself doing 4 or 5 runs up these breaks to reach my fav single tracks and barely breaking a sweat doing it, I kid you not.

    This has put the P in my E for Enduro, the hole setup is so stiff its incredible when you drop the hammer how it responds so stiff, I put this down in part to the HD as well, I could easily feel flex in my X0 10spd setup with chainguide on the same tracks on another carbon frame, that frame did not flex either, but the drivetrain didn't quite match it like XX1 does.

    Imo if you have a good drive train now either 1x10 or 2x10, 9, 8, 7 whatever the I don't think you need to upgrade to XX1 unless you can self justify it, is it worth it imo! yes for me, but I also had to buy a complete drive train anyway so it was a no brainer being a single ring fan anyway, I just hate FDs.

    I dont miss my chain guide but a bash would be nice at some stage, will see what options develop from the players.

    You have to understand this also has allowed the big ring to move to the rear where its less vulnerable protected in the inside of the cluster at the wheel allowing a smaller ring up front. Ive sorta got used to the 32t for now, Im not so sure about running a 34t so will hold off for now.

    XX1

  21. #71
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    Hi, I'm Manuel from Chile, I have a bike Ibis Mojo HD 160 and I want to install the Sram groupset XX1,

    Wrote to Ibis Cycles and they said
    "Hello Manuel,
    For XX1 the crank clearance is the same as with XX. So 156 or 168 Either will work. However, there is a clearance issue with in the 10t cog XX1. The chain will rub on the frame in That gear. We have not received any groups yet XX1. So it is hard for me to offer you specifics, but quite a few People Have Their frames modified to Work with XX1. The two methods seem to be adding a spacer Either on the end of the hub axle to spread the drop outs a little, or filing a small notch in the coal where the chain hits.
    Good Luck! "


    You had this problem? can help me with the solution?

  22. #72
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    Has anyone had this problem? serious? or can be solved easily without changing much the frame?

  23. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by manuel.vivar View Post
    Has anyone had this problem? serious? or can be solved easily without changing much the frame?

    Ive not had this problem I regularly check my bike pulled the wheels off pretty reg as Im pretty anal about bike maintenance.

    Apart from some cosmetic scratches no different to any bike Ive had my XX1 has been deadly silent and rock solid not even a tune after being installed and Ive ridden nearly everyday, done a few guided tours, and ramping up that side so both are going to be subjected to allot of regular abuse.

    My LBS setup my XX1 they had installed quite allot of XX1 systems on customers bikes before mine so know what they're doing.

    Certainly would not be filing any part of my frame down at any stage, spacing if required,
    If it is an issue I would get some moto tape, clear roll of tape film 3m or something for protection.


    Got an Enduro nnext month and a Gondala mini downhill race as part of our Bike festival week so will be another test for the XX1 and HD 140.

    Cheers

  24. #74
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    Just thinking about this some more!

    HUB selection could be quite critical to this problem, not all hub flanges are spaced the same for a given width, this was an issue with a few 150mm spaced hubs with DH bikes a few years back, Chris King being one, I see they are updating they're 150mm hub.

    I use a DT 240s, this is hard comparison be because unless your wheel is built to the same exact stds, rim spoke etc it could affect some and not others, more likely less a frame issue and more a hub issue.

    Many hub manufactures will be trying to release a XX1 hub driver compatibility as I think even they realise they are behind the eight ball with its popularity to date and if a X9 XO version is released many will be left wanting.

    But if its not engineered properly then this will be a common issue on any bike imo.

  25. #75
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    Good to hear that the 240s are working fine. My XX1 is due next week. Hope this time the date is exact.

    Maverick: could you tell me how long your chain is? I.e. how many links you took off?

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