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  1. #1
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    Anyone have FSA MegaExo K-Force Light In Their Moj Build

    Anyone Using FSA MegaExo K-Force Light Crank w Ceramic In Their Moj Build ? If so, how is it working out for you ? Shifting, chainsuck, stiffness, durability, etc.
    Thanks

  2. #2
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    Im sure somebody owned a K-Force on their Mojo, not sure if its the light version or not, check out the post your mojo pics here thread. If I recall, there is a rider who has a K-Force on their bike.
    07 Giant Anthem 2 (Int'l Edition) | omartan.co.cc
    Im a MOJO Fanboy

  3. #3
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    Nearly 2 years on my MegaExo BB (normal) since I got it OEM with my ‘06 Mojo SX build. These have no sign of wear, still rolling smooth, it is passing the life of square taper XTR, already double the life I ever got from the most expensive ISIS triple bearing Raceface or FSA, stiffer than any before, perfect chainline is easy to space on the Mojo as Ibis specifies, easy shifting, no unusual chain-suck. I did lift the outside seals without removing the bearings and packed more light grease (Slick-Honey) last fall before their second wet season (I don't remember how I accessed the bearing seals but it was easy or I would not have done it).

    I imagine carbon balls would last even longer rolling smoothly. They probably use even harder metal races too. The red anodized outer housings do look bling.

    My FSA Afterburner crank arms are getting pretty rock hammered now and I may look for a whole new crank/BB set when this BB finally wears out. The MegaExo line is compatible with Shimano and Raceface and others I’m not aware of. I’m very happy with the low key looking very stiff Afterburner cranks, zero issues, low cost rings that wear very well and shift easy, but a quarter pound heavier than XT or Raceface.

  4. #4
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    I've just recently installed FSA's new 2by9 K-Force Light crankset. It's a 29/44 combo and it is damn near perfect for everything here in the mountains. I've got an 11/34 in the back, so the 29-34 is small enough for me to get up just about anything. I may try to go down to a 42 if I can make that happen, this would keep me in the big ring a bit longer. I was down in Fruita the other day (river side) and rode just about every single loop and not once did I shift out of the 29 ring....perfect gearing for that stuff. Stiffness....easily as stiff as my XTR's that just came off. Smoothness....don't know if it's my mind, the ceramic berings or what, but it sure does feel buttery smooth, better than the XTR set. No chain suck issues so far. And to top it all off....they just look so damn sexy!

  5. #5
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    Hi,

    I recently purchased a FSA- K Force Light MTB crankset ( new-takeoff) and cannot for the life of me figure out how to secure the left (non-drive) crank arm? It appears the the setup requires a 2-3 mm spacer to allow the non drive (left arm) to completely lock down the BB intregrated BB system? Can anyone help me?

  6. #6
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    it is a tight fit if I remember and be careful not to strip it. (part 9.1 in pdf). I thought I had gotten the wrong length crank on my sc blur till i got the crank seated all the way with a lil rubber mallet.
    Derby can probably help you the best with this one on the moj. (better to finesse than hit like me)
    I really like the self extracting part (part 10.1), like ole campy cranks but had to re-tighten beyond spec to get it to stay. I went and road it and carried tool with me till it felt secure without over tightening. (I guess I should have used penetrating grade loctite.)
    http://www.fullspeedahead.com/downlo...ightCranks.pdf
    http://www.cyclingnews.com/tech.php?...-force_megaexo
    http://weightweenies.starbike.com/fo...c.php?p=317945
    Question about FSA MegaExo BB stiffness


    Above is for road but similar issues.
    Last edited by ghawk; 03-30-2008 at 06:29 AM.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by ghawk
    it is a tight fit if I remember and be careful not to strip it. (part 9.1 in pdf). I thought I had gotten the wrong length crank on my sc blur till i got the crank seated all the way with a lil rubber mallet.
    Derby can probably help you the best with this one on the moj. (better to finesse than hit like me)
    I really like the self extracting part (part 10.1), like ole campy cranks but had to re-tighten beyond spec to get it to stay. I went and road it and carried tool with me till it felt secure without over tightening. (I guess I should have used penetrating grade loctite.)
    http://www.fullspeedahead.com/downlo...ightCranks.pdf
    http://www.cyclingnews.com/tech.php?...-force_megaexo
    http://weightweenies.starbike.com/fo...c.php?p=317945
    Question about FSA MegaExo BB stiffness
    Above is for road but similar issues.
    I've never installed the K-Force Lite cranks. If the directions with the crank are not obvious, find a very expert bicycle mechanic to do it and show you how it's removed and reinstalled so you can do any maintenance in the future.

    Looking at the K-Force Lite pdf ghawk linked here, I see the mountain bike left crank is held to the crank spindle differently than my aluminum FSA Afterburner cranks (The Afterburner cranks are fixed the same way as XT cranks using a side cap to snug tight and pinch bolts on a split end of the crank arm - like a fork's steer tube is tightened to the head seat with top cap and held by the stem pinch bolts. This is the easiest crank assembly design Iíve ever used.)

    For the K-Force be sure to use (removable) blue Loctite in the pdf the instruction: "Loctite 242 (blue) compound is pre-applied to the M17 fixing screw." This looks like a self extracting type of spindle end bolt ("M17 fixing screw") on the left side.

  8. #8
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    Thanks for posting the link to the FSA instructions. This was very helpful, seems I am missing an o- ring and a wavy washer (having purchased the crankset form a private party), which I was able to order on- line from FSA. I am still concerned, however that the left (non- drive side) carank arm seems to bottom out prior to snugging up to the LH bearing face, thus leaving excess side play? W'ell see how it goes when the washers get here.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by buggymancan
    Thanks for posting the link to the FSA instructions. This was very helpful, seems I am missing an o- ring and a wavy washer (having purchased the crankset form a private party), which I was able to order on- line from FSA. I am still concerned, however that the left (non- drive side) carank arm seems to bottom out prior to snugging up to the LH bearing face, thus leaving excess side play? W'ell see how it goes when the washers get here.
    It has to be snug. I backed off a little but the washers are essential. Allot more lil parts on these than on Xtr. Much more assembly required. Also, take your tightening wrench with you on the ride, but don't go too far out of spec. Also, same on the pedals, cause you can break the seat of the alum inserts in the carbon pretty easy if you don't go just a lil beyond on the pedals. (in other words just the torque down can snap bond of the alum inserts. Be sure to use the lil alum washers also before pedals.)

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