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  1. #1
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    anybody else need a new shock axle after installing new bushings?

    So, I just got a rebuild of my RP23 and new bushings installed and now there's a little movement with an audible click when I lift the bike by the seat. I'm not sure if it's a big deal or maybe I need a new axle. I've double checked the alignment and torque, that's all good, and it's definitely in the upper mount shaft. Anybody else had this? Thanks

  2. #2
    aka dan51
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    New bushings should be alleviating any clunk or movement.
    In 5 years I have never needed a new axle, and the upper stuff wears much slower than the lower stuff.
    I would remove all the upper hardware, grease it up and try again.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    ...People thought they were getting a good fork because it was a "fox".

  3. #3
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    Make sure you have the small 5mm washers installed at BOTH ends of the bushings. (see red arrow in illustration). There should be one on each side of the bushing.

    I was re-greasing my bushings and misplaced one of the washers and it made that clicking when I lifted the saddle also.

    They are so small, they are easy to overlook.



  4. #4
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    If you mean the bolt that goes through bushings, that is not the issue, unless it is stripped.

  5. #5
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    If you're replying to my post,
    NO, I'm referring to the WASHERS at both ends of the upper shock bushing, not the bolts themselves.

    If I don't use those washers on my HD, I get play in that upper bushing.

    Others have had the same issue as those washers are very easy to overlook.

    Mojo HD link play?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by crconsulting View Post
    If you're replying to my post,
    NO, I'm referring to the WASHERS at both ends of the upper shock bushing, not the bolts themselves.

    If I don't use those washers on my HD, I get play in that upper bushing.

    Others have had the same issue as those washers are very easy to overlook.

    Mojo HD link play?
    I was referring t the OP actually, and what he might mean by "axle". I can see where those washers would definitely be important.

    The bolt squeezes the sides of the bushings tight enough so that the sliding surface during rotation is between the shock bushing (inside the eye), and the reducer. If the rotation is actually between the bolt and the inside of the reducer, the reducers are not being pinched tight enough. If washers are needed to fill that gap, then they would be needed to put a proper squeeze on the reducers.

  7. #7
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    The mounting hardware wears as well. Generally advisable to replace that every couple bushings (or if the bushings are very worn).

    The piece I am referring to is the "pin" in the above diagram.

  8. #8
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    Ahh, there you go, I'm missing one washer, thanks crconsulting.

  9. #9
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    reviving this thread as i have similar problem. after i replaced rp23 with roco tst r i am getting play in reducers at limbo chips. i double checked i have both washers installed as suggested, everything tightened properly, but the play is still there. reducers are new. i tried and reinstalled rp23 back and the play was gone. i even tried different roco tst r and the play came back.
    any idea?
    HuRa
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by brankulo View Post
    reviving this thread as i have similar problem. after i replaced rp23 with roco tst r i am getting play in reducers at limbo chips. i double checked i have both washers installed as suggested, everything tightened properly, but the play is still there. reducers are new. i tried and reinstalled rp23 back and the play was gone. i even tried different roco tst r and the play came back.
    any idea?
    You might have the wrong width reducers.
    As I explained above, the reducers are squeezed in the mounting bracket (Limbo chips in your case). The reducers should remain stationary, and the bolt should remain stationary, when the shock compresses. The shock rotates around the stationary bushings.
    If you push the reducers into the shock eye bushing and it is a snug fit, then that's not your problem.
    If the reducers are too narrow on the other hand, then the bushings will move between the limbo chips, even when the bolt is tightened very tight. The shock with bushings installed, should squeeze snugly between the two sides of the mount (limbo chips) before tightening.

    If you have calipers, you can measure the face to face width on the RP23 bushings and compare it to your new Marzocchi.

  11. #11
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    i did measure eyelet and width and they are the same. i have been told so from several different sources too. it looks to me that reducers are not moving, they are squeezed tight between chips. no side do side movement, it feels like the shock is moving back and forth when i pull up the seat tube.
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  12. #12
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    Well you need to figure out where that movement is coming from. When I get that, its usually my lower linkage. But if it doesn't happen with the fox, that's wierd.

    I'm curious, how much weight did that add switching from the air shock to the coil?

  13. #13
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    to me it seems like the movement is between bushings or whatever you call them (white caps that get pressed into eyelets) and black metal shaft that goes through. but again, i would think the same problem would be there with rp23.
    roco is air too, it is havier when you hold it, mounted on the bike its hardly noticeable, but it is much better than fox. but only have one ride so far. dont want to ride it with this until i resolve this issue.
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  14. #14
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    If you take the shock off, and put the black metal shaft through the white caps can you feel any play in your hand compared to the RP23?

    Quote Originally Posted by smilinsteve View Post
    I'm curious, how much weight did that add switching from the air shock to the coil?
    When I switch between Vector Air and Vector Coil the weight difference is exactly 1lb. I think with a Ti spring it will be closer to .6lb.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    ...People thought they were getting a good fork because it was a "fox".

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by brankulo View Post
    to me it seems like the movement is between bushings or whatever you call them (white caps that get pressed into eyelets) and black metal shaft that goes through. but again, i would think the same problem would be there with rp23.
    The bushings should be pressed against the frame mount solidly so that its like part of the frame. Are they white? I've only seen bare aluminum bushings. The "shaft" is really just a bolt that adds that compressive force and holds it all together. It still sounds like the bushing ends are not being squeezed tight enough.

    Pictures of your set up might help.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by brankulo View Post
    to me it seems like the movement is between bushings or whatever you call them (white caps that get pressed into eyelets) and black metal shaft that goes through. but again, i would think the same problem would be there with rp23.
    roco is air too, it is havier when you hold it, mounted on the bike its hardly noticeable, but it is much better than fox. but only have one ride so far. dont want to ride it with this until i resolve this issue.
    I would recommend watching the video below, he addresses play in the bearings/pivots and recommends solutions:

    Fixing Bearing Creak on Multi Pivot Suspension Bikes - YouTube

  17. #17
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    will take pictures in the evening. just to clarify things, i am using fox polymer reducers/bushings, not the aluminum ones.
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  18. #18
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    Ok, I think we both kind of screwed up on the terminology.
    The white part you refer to is the bushing. When I was using the term bushing, I was using it incorrectly. I meant reducer, not bushing.

    Anyway, the white bushing pushes into the shock eye. Then you need a pin of the correct length, and spacers that go over the pin. The width needs to be the same as the total width for the RP23.

    So, are the white bushings snug in the shock eyelet?
    is the black pin snug in the bushings?

    Did you measure the outside face to outside face of the reducers? Does it match the distance between the limbo shicps with no gap before tightening?

  19. #19
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    so i ended up placing thin washers (in fact cut out out of beer can as i couldnt find anything suitable in home depot) between bushings (white) and reducers (black). that got rid of the play. i thing the reducers need to be bit wider for this shock.
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  20. #20
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    When I mount/dismount my shock on the HD I need to loosen one of the limbo chips. If I don't it's nearly impossible to get the shock back in. Maybe you could remove the chips and check for any debris behind them. Or sand down the paint a bit to tighten the gap.

    The beer can method sounds like a good fix for now.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    ...People thought they were getting a good fork because it was a "fox".

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