i have several rides on my new hd and more and more i ride it i am thinking to switch. currently i have 11-32xt rear and 24-32-42 xt crankset front. will remove big chainring and install bashguard. to keep the cost down i only want to play with middle ring. not replacing small one or cassette.
1. will i need to add extra spacer to drive side do move everything further of the frame? what size of spacer?
2. no idea what to go with for middle ring? so far i havent used big chainring. i can do all the climbs in small, easier ones in middle. i ride front range trails, some of them i can access directly from home by taking bike path for about 4-8miles. i purposely was doing this section in middle and while i could benefit from bigger, no big deal. soo, should i bother with 34 or 36?
3. if i stay with 32 ring, is it ok to buy bashguard for 36 ring? in case i later on decide to go with bigger chainring ring so i dont have to get bigger bashguard as well.
thanks
I usually just take off the big ring and add a bash. No need for any spacers or anything. You might want to adjust your front derailer limit screw so you can't shift onto your bash ring.
BBG will ship a bash ring to your door for 18$. That's pretty cheap - to me its worth getting the right size and then you get more ground clearance in 32 mode and save a couple grams. But if you want, there's no problem in running a larger bash.
I run 22/34 rings on my HD, with a 36 tooth bash. The clearance difference is under 1/2" difference between the 32 bash and 36 bash. Next time I change I'll probably go 24/36.
Stick with the 24/32 for now, when that wears out change to whatever you want.
As ansibile says, no need for spacers. Leave the cranks alone and adjust the front der limit.
now will i be able to use all gears on both rings? thats the reason i asked about spacer. by just removing big ring i will not gain ability to use all gear range with small chainring will i?
also thinking about stinger guide/tensioner. does it work ok?
It'll be just the same as now except no big ring. Its possible you could optimize your front derailer adjustment a little more for the two small rings since there's no big ring to worry about. You might want to remove a link or two from your chain too, if you decide you're not going back to 3 rings. Google up how to determine your chain length, be sure to test with your shock deflated as dw link bikes have some chain growth as the suspension compresses.
Can't speak to the chainguide myself, I haven't used those.
You are correct about chainline, but you would need to space the cranks quite far to get the same chainline as true 2x10 cranks and that smooth crosschain feel in small-small.. However, I would not do this cause I don't think the gain would be worth the crank position, even if you could shift them far enough.
Also - remember to shorten your chain cause that's a big improvement in chain tension. A lot more then 2 links too, more like 5. I never used a guide for years in this step and only rarely lost the chain cause you always have more tension from the RD.
Many people love the stinger. I kept losing the pulley, but I was using it during a lot of park riding. Locktite
yes, bad. You'll eliminate too much of the splined section from the non-drive side, and the crank won't have much to grab on to. It will look/work fine until you put some power to it, then snap, the crank may fall off.
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