2010 Carbon Lefty 140mm pbr on Mojo SL
First photo is the 130 pbr, the other two are just back from my second ride on the new 2010 Lefty 140 pbr.
The 10mm in travel not the only difference. On the old pbr, it was a SOLID lock out, no blow off. One advantage was you could lean forward, compress the front end and lock it in the lowered position for climbing. Nice on the really steep stuff.
On the 2010 pbr the lock out has a (non adjustable) blow off and you cannot compress the front end and have it stay there. I think the lock out threshold must self adjust with the air spring pressure, but not sure. I cannot think of another way it would accomodate riders of various weights.
It is a very solid pedaling platform and now you do not need to freak out if you forget to unlock it and go banging into stuff.
The new Lefty is still a bit tight and needs break in. I will reserve my small bump report until a bit later, but otherwise awesome.
According to the spec's and my measurements going from the 130 to 140 only changed the axle to crown 2mm... so they managed 10mm more travel with really not much a handleing/head angle change - nice :-)
This is a great all mountain or even race arrangement (Although I'd prefer my 140mm Fox with Terralogic for racing). This front end is point and shoot, extremely stiff, plush and FUN!
I'd highly recommend either "fork" (really a strut) depending on your planned use.
Oh, they managed to drop .2 lbs off the 140 as well so in the new photos with "heavy" tires, wheels and rotors it is 22.95 lbs - not bad for a 5.5" travel all mountain FUN bike!
do you know maybe how much the fork weight?
I ask because for ibis we need a different steertube.
what do you have for your lefty? brand? weight? price?
I catalogue there's 1245 grams, I think without steer tube.
I saw different steertubes, custom made, from 90 to 133 grams (carbon the lightest and scandium the heaviest).
I think about lefty, but then I have to invest i front wheel to so and I don't want to make a mistake haha.
I can save some weight with lefty, now my fork weights 1480 grams, but it has to less travel.
I will a new fork, I think about new rs rev or as I said, lefty. I my country there's a big price diffrerence between those two forks - revelation costs about 1\5 price of the lefty
I am also happy to see that the fork braces are white and not that green they have on the cannondale site...
are you using the cannondale converter or the project 321 one?
can you post a close up picture of the assembly above the top headset .. i would like to see the spacers and the how the crown is assembled ... (my goal is to see if one needs exact spacers made for this as there will be movement when you tighten the Star Flanged nut)
Very nice look. I'm also relieved that the white clamps go so well with the carbon frame as I have the same fork on the way for my Mojo SL. I would love to see some close-ups on the steer tube converter and some information as to which converter you are using.
To answer the questions:
Weight of the 140 carbon pbr on my scale: 2.86lbs (1297g) I think claimed is 2.83 (1284g)
I used the Project 321 kit: http://www.project321.com/bike2.php I did not weigh that when it was out, sorry, but I know there are slightly lighter carbon ones... but I'm fine with the AL one for now.
DH_WP: As long as the stack height of your headset and head tube does not exceed the space between the clamps you can do it with regular spacers. BTW, they make and XL version too, with an increased space between the clamps for XL frames.
5 3/8" (137mm) is the space between the clamps on the regular size, don't know what the XL size is - might check the C'dale forum.
I didn't like the white clamps at first, but I gues it's OK, would have prefered just clear/aluminum or black... but it's not bad and I suppose they are trying to match everything without getting specific... yet...
If you are planning to get into a Lefty, keep in mind there is a little more maintenance. You need to reset the bearings every so often (a 2 minute job, once you do it the first time) and cutting the lower boot zip tie, sliding it up and greasing the bearing races (another 3 minute job).
Hope this helps. I'm totally pleased.
Sweet, thank cactus...
I see there is room for error when it comes to the spacers as the main converter spacer is slightly larger "wider) than the width of the clamp..... perfect...
I think ill go for the project adapter as well and i am not sure how cannonade deal with the same problem.