Results 1 to 98 of 98

Thread: 1x10 Mojo HD

  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    61

    1x10 Mojo HD

    Just purchased the G2 chainguard for my HD and am going to try a 1x10 gearing set up. Anyone with experience here as far as gearing (cassette/front gear) to choose? I plan on this truly being my "all around" bike. I live in Las Vegas and ride Bootleg Canyon (steep climbs and flowing downhills). I am more worried about being able to climb in the lowest gear than to hit the highest speeds. Was looking at the new SRAM XO group, or taking suggestions. Any input is appreciated.

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    61
    Was looking at the SRAM 11/36 rear cassette and 32 ring up front? Not sure how hard it is going to be to get this thing up some steep climbs? Cant seem to find a gearing chart that has the 36 rear (too new?).

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    618
    I've been experimenting to see if I could get away with a 1x10 by trying to ride solely in the middle ring. New Dynasys so 32x11-36. Riding terrain around Calgary, mostly Moose Mountain so Alberta Rockies.

    I would say I've been in the middle ring 99% of the time. So far all my rides on Moose including some 4+ hour rides and 1+ hour straight climbing(Pneuma trail up) I have not needed to drop down to the granny. However, there are a couple climbs in the city, one in particular that I can only clean by dropping my Talas and going to the granny, and another which as I'm fatiguing after a couple hours like to drop to the granny. Conclusion: I'm keeping the granny because I want to make all my climbs. Close, but not close enough with just the 32...too bad.
    Last edited by robnow; 07-08-2010 at 09:01 PM.

  4. #4
    1 bike to ride them all
    Reputation: CANADIANBACON's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    211
    Agree with robnow.

    Set-up my HD with a Truvativ Stylo 36/24TH crank set paired with a SRAM XX 11-36 cassette. Used this set-up for a 160 mile trip of mixed technical singletrack and some fire road. The combo worked well. Spent more time than I would have thought in the 36. The 24th ring created a really low a ratio that was great but I.M.O. overkill for everything except the steepest of wall like climbs. Not as useful as I would have thought.

    Switched to the Mini G/The Hive 15g crank w/34th ring/SRAM XX 11-36 cassette about 3 weeks ago. Have about 150 miles on this set-up. As you might expect the 34TH ring gets spun-out pretty quickly on any descent longer than a couple hundred yards, and YES climbing steep stuff definitely requires nut busting effort. That said I am going to tuff it out for a while longer.

    Based on my experience to date, my preferred set-up would be the 15G crankset w/Ethirteen Turbocharger, 38/26TH rings and a SRAM X.O 11-36 cassette instead of the XX for obvious fiscal reasons.

  5. #5
    _dw
    _dw is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,269
    I'm running an e*thirteen LG1+ with a 36T ring on one of the HD prototypes here, the stock e13 guide fits right up with no modifications, and at about 100g lighter than the MRP option I have the bike built up around 27 lbs. I'm also running the 15g cranks on the HD. If I were riding Bootleg I'd probably switch to a 34T ring up front.
    dw★link
    Split Pivot
    @daveweagle -Twitter

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    377
    Quote Originally Posted by _dw
    I'm running an e*thirteen LG1+ with a 36T ring on one of the HD prototypes here, the stock e13 guide fits right up with no modifications, and at about 100g lighter than the MRP option I have the bike built up around 27 lbs. I'm also running the 15g cranks on the HD. If I were riding Bootleg I'd probably switch to a 34T ring up front.
    Nice weight. Which wheels, tires and fork do you ride?

  7. #7
    _dw
    _dw is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,269
    Quote Originally Posted by Fadl
    Nice weight. Which wheels, tires and fork do you ride?
    FOX 36 with DT wheels and WTB 2,35 tires
    dw★link
    Split Pivot
    @daveweagle -Twitter

  8. #8
    Homer's problem child
    Reputation: Bortis Yelltzen's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    1,322
    Quote Originally Posted by _dw
    I'm running an e*thirteen LG1+ with a 36T ring on one of the HD prototypes here, the stock e13 guide fits right up with no modifications.
    Just an FYI, I had to grind my E13 DRS plate and wear guide significantly to get everything to fit with no rubbing and proper alignment. The machined rib/tab on the back side of the plate needed to have almost an inch removed. I also rounded off the wear plate by about 3/4 of an inch.

    All said and done it is much quieter than my previous set ups (Stingers, Heim's, etc...)

    BY
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro....

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    26
    I have been running a 1x10 setup on my Mojo SL for almost a year. This company from Austrailia was on this forum a while back. www.widgit.com.au
    I run an 11-34 cassette and run a 28t up front. They also have a 30t available. Not even wishing for a granny option. No problems, no guide, and it puts the chain line in between the granny and the middle, so no problem running in the big cassette gear for extended climbs. Take a look and see, simplifies the 1x10 project. The guy that owns the company is fantastic with his customer service and responds quickly if you have a question. It may seem a little pricey but it is a quick and uncomplicated install that works well. I use a bashguard in the spot where the big ring used to be.

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    61
    Thanks for the link Vinmann. Interesting alternative.

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bbarson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    74
    I also live in Vegas and am waiting for my matte carbon HD to be delivered. I plan on running a 1x10 with an 11-36t cassette and the fifteen.g 34t SS crankset too. I think it is going to be the perfect setup for 99% of Vegas area riding.
    Santa Cruz Heckler 27.5 - Pike/Purple Hope Hubs.Brakes.Pedals/35mm 12k LB Wheels

    Trek Carbon Stache 29+ SS - Yari/Black Hope Hubs.Pedals/50mm 12k LB Wheels

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    95
    Does the wigit work with 10 spd chains?

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    26
    Yes, I just converted my 1x9 to a Sram XO 1x10 using the Widgit. I am using a short cage XO rear Deraileur, XO right trigger shifter with an XX rear cassette 11-36t. I got the rear deraileur, and right shifter from a seller in Hong Kong. Really work flawless, and the 10 speed chain works great with the Widgit. Paul Hagarty owns the Widgit company and he is fantastic to deal with. He also has a Mojo SL.

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    897
    Does the Widget keep the chain from jumping off the bottom of the front sprocket if a slight back peddle is done over rough terrain?

    I'm using an MRP 1x and it works good for most of the time but every so often the chain will jump off the bottom of my 32t ring and cause a jam up. If the Widget fixes the problem I'd try one.

    Mojo

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    26
    There may be other reasons the chain jumps, but the
    widgit has guides(shields) on both sides of the sprocket that prevents that from happening. Correct chain length and rear derailleur spring tension need to be correct first for any single front chain ring to work properly, without tensioners. The Widgit has to be cleaned out once in a while as some trail debris will gather between the sprocket and the shields. I know they say the drag on the chain with tensioners is minimal, but I like the fact that nothing is riding on the chain up front with this set up.

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    897
    Quote Originally Posted by vinmann3
    There may be other reasons the chain jumps, but the
    widgit has guides(shields) on both sides of the sprocket that prevents that from happening. Correct chain length and rear derailleur spring tension need to be correct first for any single front chain ring to work properly, without tensioners. The Widgit has to be cleaned out once in a while as some trail debris will gather between the sprocket and the shields. I know they say the drag on the chain with tensioners is minimal, but I like the fact that nothing is riding on the chain up front with this set up.
    With top mounted chain guides, lower chain jumping is very common in aggressive riding. When the chain is moving side to side during heavy bumps a slight back peddle movement is all it takes to cause chain jamming or derailment. Many are going to a lower chain sprocket/idler set up to prevent this. I'm not to keen on this arangement due to the extra sprocket noise.

    When riding a Mojo most are prone to ride it hard and utilize the full 5.5 inches of travel, this is aggressive riding and most 1x9/1x10 top mounted guides will eventually have chain jam. I'm told it is more common with smaller front chain rings such as a 32 t.

    Mojo

  17. #17
    GUIDANCE COUNSELOR
    Reputation: NoahColorado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3,277
    Or there is this......

    coming soon
    NOAH SEARS
    MRP - Brand Manager
    Pivot Cycles - Team Rider

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bbarson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    74
    Quote Originally Posted by NoahColorado
    Or there is this......

    coming soon
    Which model is this? Is it Mojo specific?
    Santa Cruz Heckler 27.5 - Pike/Purple Hope Hubs.Brakes.Pedals/35mm 12k LB Wheels

    Trek Carbon Stache 29+ SS - Yari/Black Hope Hubs.Pedals/50mm 12k LB Wheels

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation: doismellbacon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    2,332

    Another way to look at this....

    Quote Originally Posted by Kenny Holding
    Was looking at the SRAM 11/36 rear cassette and 32 ring up front? Not sure how hard it is going to be to get this thing up some steep climbs? Cant seem to find a gearing chart that has the 36 rear (too new?).
    If you run a single 32t ring w/ an 11-36 cassette, your lowest gear will produce (+or- based on actual wheel diameter) 23.1 gear inches, which puts it right in between the ratios you get from a 22t granny and the 23t and 26t cassette cogs (23t = 24.9 gear inches, 26t = 22.0 gear inches).

    In other words, the 32/36 will be just about as low a gear as your old 22t granny and the 3rd from the biggest (26t) cassette cog. The new bike enthusiasm should give you enough extra horse power to make up that one gear inch you're missing.

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    897
    Quote Originally Posted by NoahColorado
    Or there is this......

    coming soon
    That looks like the new pivot mounted bumerange, very nice, but when will it be available for the SL Do you need someone to help test it

    P.S. Make sure it is available with a Ti pivot bolt.

    Mojo

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    107
    That's exactly what I'm wanting to run on my mojo. Is this going to work?

  22. #22
    GUIDANCE COUNSELOR
    Reputation: NoahColorado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3,277
    Like a charm...

    No ETA at this point, sorry for the tease.
    NOAH SEARS
    MRP - Brand Manager
    Pivot Cycles - Team Rider

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    107
    I take it that the drilled out hole is for the lower link? How long of a wait are we talking? Month or like six months? I wanted the g2 mini without the bashguared. This will be perfect.

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    107
    Will this Lopes SL work on the normal Mojo? Or should I wait for the custom looking one above?
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    829

    New question here.

    Quote Originally Posted by supersquad3 View Post
    Will this Lopes SL work on the normal Mojo? Or should I wait for the custom looking one above?
    .... same question....

  26. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Tall Tom's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    98
    The Lopes SL available from our webstore or an Ibis dealer will work. You'll also need the "Mojo SL-MRP Chainguide Adapter" that replaces the forward pivot axel. This combo will clock the guide properly and keep it from rotating. Also, you may need to file off a little of the lower roller inner plate to prevent interference with the swing arm at top out.

    Take Care,
    Tom

  27. #27
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Yody's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    3,175
    I just got the MRP ibis guide and went 1x10, stay tuned for a review

  28. #28
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    829

    New question here.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tall Tom View Post
    The Lopes SL available from our webstore or an Ibis dealer will work. You'll also need the "Mojo SL-MRP Chainguide Adapter" that replaces the forward pivot axel. This combo will clock the guide properly and keep it from rotating. Also, you may need to file off a little of the lower roller inner plate to prevent interference with the swing arm at top out.

    Take Care,
    Tom
    does this mean that the LOPES CHAIN GUIDE sold on the IBIS site now has the new design w/ the lower link hole ready to go ??
    if i cant figure out a cheaper way to set this up then i guess ill pull the trigger on the LOPES guide.....so much money...

  29. #29
    GUIDANCE COUNSELOR
    Reputation: NoahColorado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3,277
    The Ibis version and the standard version of the MRP Lopes SL guide are different in two ways:

    1)The Ibis version adds the pivot mount
    2)The upper and lower guides are positioned wider than standard to accomodate for the low chainstay on the Mojos. With a standard Lopes the upper guide would end up clocked closer to 11:30 than 12:00 as would be the case with the Ibis model.

    *The Ibis model also works well on other designs with similar chainstay positions (VPP especially). The pivot mount can only be utilized with Ibis, but it otherwise works just like a standard BB mount guide.

    Happy trails!
    NOAH SEARS
    MRP - Brand Manager
    Pivot Cycles - Team Rider

  30. #30
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    212
    i'm running 1x10 on my sl with a 32 and 11-36. i'm planning to switch to a 34 up front but until then, i've been happy with this setup. to keep the chain in place, i use the front derailleur, no cable or shifter, and adjust the limit screw out so it just rubs when i'm in the 36 in back. i've had very few drops and no jams to date. with a 34 it should be even better since the chain will sit slightly higher against the front derailleur. also, i could take a link or two out to reduce the chain slap but want to get the 34 on first.

    a few years ago i tried one of those mrp guides on my heckler and hated it. significant drag on the chain and it was constantly moving from impacts. it kept the chain in place, but not without being very noticeable. not ideal for a 'set it and forget' type like myself.

  31. #31
    GUIDANCE COUNSELOR
    Reputation: NoahColorado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3,277
    Quote Originally Posted by roseyscot View Post
    a few years ago i tried one of those mrp guides on my heckler and hated it. significant drag on the chain and it was constantly moving from impacts. it kept the chain in place, but not without being very noticeable. not ideal for a 'set it and forget' type like myself.
    I'm sorry you had a less-than-stellar experience.

    The Lopes guide was not available a few years ago, so I don't think you tried that one. As for drag, when properly setup there can't be significant "added" drag compared to drivetrain without a tensioner. For one, our pulleys are 9t - smaller than those on a derailleur. Secondly, where the chain encounters the pulley it is under very little stress or tension. So, while the pulley/tensioner certainly adds some "drag" it is a minuscule amount compared to that added by the derailleur pulleys, freehub, and even the cumulative effect of the chain's links (and those are just drivetain parts, let us not forget knobby tires, loose spokes, etc.). So again, with a proper setup there should be almost no noticeable added drag with chainguide.

    It would be interesting to see which system has more drag; one with a tensioner mechanism or one with an excessively shortened chain.
    NOAH SEARS
    MRP - Brand Manager
    Pivot Cycles - Team Rider

  32. #32
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    1,266
    I really want to go 1x10.....but I'm scared.

  33. #33
    mtbr member
    Reputation: manchvegas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    1,110
    I am plannin on goin 1x9 with 11/34 an 28t widgit upfront. I'll post up how it goes when my bike finally gets in
    Full time rider part time racer...

    See my adventures here..

    https://www.instagram.com/projectnortheast/

  34. #34
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    141
    Quote Originally Posted by manchvegas View Post
    I am plannin on goin 1x9 with 11/34 an 28t widgit upfront. I'll post up how it goes when my bike finally gets in
    28t drive!!!!!!

    guess it'll climb well......


    if anyone is unsure of going single ring my advise would be just do it and get the MRP Ibis guide, either one is good.
    my personal set up is 36t drive with 11-36 10 speed rear, it's suprising what you can get up when you run ou of choices, actually thinking of putting on a 37t

  35. #35
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Tim-H's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    1,031
    I think 28t is way too small too. I'd suggest at least a 32t ring. I'm running 2x with a bash on my hardtail with a 32t and barely ever switch out of it. This is in western WA with quite a bit of up and down out here.

  36. #36
    mtbr member
    Reputation: manchvegas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    1,110
    I'm in NH, do alot of all mountain riding alot of technical climbing etc... I'll share my research an what led me to the 28t.....

    Comparing the same cassette 11/34 (9spd remember, not 10) With a traditional 3 ring front set up being 22/32/44 and with a 28t widgit, here is how the gain ratios come out....


    front 22t Front 32t Front 28t widgit

    rear cassette
    11- 3.8 5.6 4.9
    13- 3.2 4.7 4.1
    15- 2.8 4.1 3.6
    17- 2.5 3.6 3.2
    20- 2.1 3.1 2.7
    23- 1.8 2.7 2.3
    26- 1.6 2.4 2.1
    30- 1.4 2.0 1.8
    34- 1.2 1.8 1.6


    So, as you can see, on the left is the cassette teeth, an follow accross to the right for the different chainrings. I didn't put the 44t cuz... I figured it would get my point across, but if people really want to know here is how it goes... by going with a 28t front vs a 22/32 above you lose the 30/34 on the 22 (the 2 easiest on the granny ring) an you lose the 11 on the 32t (the hardest gear on the "middle" ring) an if I had put in the 44t, you would see you only lose the top 3 hardest gears on the 44t. When you look at it like that, you don't really lose alot to gain alot. no front der, no shifter, one singlespeed beefy ring up front etc... the gain ratios change once you put a 12/36 10 spd cassette on, you can get away with running a 32 or even a 34, that's why 1x10 is so popular. my way is great for people like me that have a full X0 9spd group an want to go 1x9, but want a wide range of gears without shelling out hundreds an hundreds of dollars to convert up to 10spd. If I was buying a bike with 10spd I would be running a traditional 32t up front to get a 1x10 set up. But I cheaped out, bought an SLX kit mojo HD an swapped my 6 month old X0 drivetrain over an bought a widgit!
    Full time rider part time racer...

    See my adventures here..

    https://www.instagram.com/projectnortheast/

  37. #37
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Yody's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    3,175
    I didn't read your research, but if you have to use a 28T front ring, its likely a single ring up front isn't for you.

  38. #38
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    450
    I made the switch to 1x10 on my HD, 32 up front 36t rear. on the upside it's great for my typical bay area riding and has made me both a stronger climber and a better technical rider. On the downside it definitely wears your legs faster - I have yet to do any epics or climb at altitude but would probably have to throw the granny on to do so. What I am really hoping for is for is a 38t or 39t cassette to come out hopefully a 9-38 with an integrated freehub: http://www.bikeradar.com/news/articl...freehub-27582/

  39. #39
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    1,266
    Quote Originally Posted by Yody View Post
    I didn't read your research, but if you have to use a 28T front ring, its likely a single ring up front isn't for you.
    East coast riding can be a whole different kettle of fish, depending on where you ride, and it has its own requirements.
    When I lived back east, all of my local rides were super slow technical rocky singletrack that was more like trials riding compared to the wide open fast westcoast where I ride/live now. Ground clearance was important, zero need of a big ring, yet you also don't really need something as low as a granny ring. That being said 28t does sound small, for me, if I was riding where I used to, a 30t would probably hit the spot.

  40. #40
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    2
    mrp is very good,but 1X10,i can't ride it ,need more power for me 一_一" !!

  41. #41
    mtbr member
    Reputation: manchvegas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    1,110
    haha, I love how people comment an don't even read peoples' replies. Kinda like most people do in politics, no real hard research, just opinions. Yes, 28 may sound small, but you only lose the one hardest gear on the 32t. an you only lose the easiest 2 gears on the granny ring. There are climbs around here that I will literally drop my fork down to 120mm an put it in the granny ring an climb. Riding around here is pretty technical in places. My buddy has an enduro with a 32t ring an mrp chain guide, an he's usually walkin up the hills while the rest of us pass riding up. I really don't think a 9x38 rear cassette is needed either. Check the gain ratios with a 11x36. Here is an example I made at sheldon browns website. It's a good way to see what you have an compare to what you think you wanna do.

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/

    Well, I tried but the link wouldn't work.... but it's a good resource anyway, it wouldn't let me enter it in an then post a link for some reason.
    Full time rider part time racer...

    See my adventures here..

    https://www.instagram.com/projectnortheast/

  42. #42
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    50
    34 front with 11/36 rear

  43. #43
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    99
    hey guys!
    Just converted my bike to 1x10 with the MRP G2 SL guide as well, and I'm now running a Q Rotor 33t ring (or their equivalent). Do a lot of riding here in SLO on technical climbing terrain. The Q-Rotor Ring 33t is about 31 in its lowest and 36 in its highest and it works incredibly well.
    Here is a crappy phone picture, and the guide has no problem running the ring.
    X9 cranks (GXP) with 1.2mm chainring spacers. Using a X0 triple spider (converted 2x10 to single).
    Love the setup. Legs get the rest, still get the speed, and chain never drops!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 1x10 Mojo HD-284576_10150235351345806_707370805_7800640_2508028_n.jpg  


  44. #44
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    1,054
    Quote Originally Posted by manchvegas View Post
    haha, I love how people comment an don't even read peoples' replies. Kinda like most people do in politics, no real hard research, just opinions. Yes, 28 may sound small, but you only lose the one hardest gear on the 32t. an you only lose the easiest 2 gears on the granny ring. There are climbs around here that I will literally drop my fork down to 120mm an put it in the granny ring an climb. Riding around here is pretty technical in places. My buddy has an enduro with a 32t ring an mrp chain guide, an he's usually walkin up the hills while the rest of us pass riding up. I really don't think a 9x38 rear cassette is needed either. Check the gain ratios with a 11x36. Here is an example I made at sheldon browns website. It's a good way to see what you have an compare to what you think you wanna do.

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/

    Well, I tried but the link wouldn't work.... but it's a good resource anyway, it wouldn't let me enter it in an then post a link for some reason.
    I see your reasoning, but just looking at gear ratios alone doesn't tell the whole picture and I find a noticeable decrease in efficiency and performance with front rings smaller than a 30. I am not an engineer, so I can't easily explain the principle. But I do know that even if you are running the exact same gear ratio, there will be a different feel and action on the suspension system between a gearing using a 32 up front and one using a 22, 28, or 40. For whatever reason, the dw link suspension on an ibis seems to be at it's most efficient with a 32-36 front ring and that's why it's so awesome set up as a 1x10. I personally use a 36, but I know that may be a bit tall for others. My thinking is that I also ride a SS and have never thought that I needed any gearing easier than a 1:1.

  45. #45
    mtbr member
    Reputation: manchvegas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    1,110
    I understand your skepticism, but gain ratios don't lie. And it's a whole different ball game going with an 11/36 rear cassette. I just didn't want to change to a 10 spd drivetrain when I just bought my XO groupo 6 months ago, that is the ONLY reason I am going 28t up front. If I was going 10spd an had the more climber friendly 11/36 rear cassette I would probably be putting a 32 up front. I think that's what people are looking past, the difference between a 1x9 (which is what I'm using) and a 1x10. It doesn't sound like much, but it makes a big difference, otherwise, 1x10 wouldn't exist. 1x9 was never really THAT popular, an I don't think it ever will be with the introduction of 1x10 an the ease of compatibility with stock 32 front chain rings. But, the introduction of a 28/30t front ring with something like the widgit allows a 1x9 spd to have close to the same gain ratios as a 1x10 just with one less gear. But, we shall see, I may try it an find it easy, or I may buy a 30/32 ring as well an keep the 28t for the first part of the season, as around here we have roughly 2 months off when we're buried with 3ft of snow in the winter.
    Full time rider part time racer...

    See my adventures here..

    https://www.instagram.com/projectnortheast/

  46. #46
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    41

    9 speed

    Shimano has 12/36 9 speed cassette. I'm running it with my 2010 XO group and a 32t single ring on the front.

  47. #47
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    450
    manchvegas - i don't have the thread in front of me, but I remember DW personally pitching in not to use any chainrings smaller than 32 as it hampers suspension action

  48. #48
    mtbr member
    Reputation: manchvegas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    1,110
    interesting, would like to see that thread. kinda too late for me right now, as I've already ordered. So, i will atleast give it a shot. I know the design engineer of the "widgit" actually designed it around a mojo sl (his personal bike). I will try it an see how it goes. The only thing I can think of that would "hamper the suspension" would be possibly more pedal bob with a smaller ring up front? I don't exactly get why, or how it could though. but, I'm not an engineer either......

    If all else fails, I can slap on my 22/32 rings an run that till I can order a chain guide or something.
    Full time rider part time racer...

    See my adventures here..

    https://www.instagram.com/projectnortheast/

  49. #49
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    618
    Quote Originally Posted by baltik View Post
    manchvegas - i don't have the thread in front of me, but I remember DW personally pitching in not to use any chainrings smaller than 32 as it hampers suspension action
    Wasn't DW stating that the beauty of the DW link is that its optimized to the chainring depending on the gradient you are riding at, ie.
    - Steeper gradient up optimized around small chainring
    - Rolling/flat terrain optimized around middle
    - Downhill optimized around large

    Or am I intermixing anti-squat(pedalling efficiency) with suspension action(bump compliance)?

  50. #50
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    450
    I think the jist was that the middle ring was versatile and worked well for climbing and descending, while the small ring was optimized for climbing and could affect suspension action on the downhills

  51. #51
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    348
    Quote Originally Posted by robnow View Post
    Wasn't DW stating that the beauty of the DW link is that its optimized to the chainring depending on the gradient you are riding at, ie.
    - Steeper gradient up optimized around small chainring
    - Rolling/flat terrain optimized around middle
    - Downhill optimized around large

    Or am I intermixing anti-squat(pedalling efficiency) with suspension action(bump compliance)?
    Yes, here's a (lengthy) article on that: http://www.mbr.co.uk/news/bike_news/...le_258916.html

    Edited to add : Hammerschmidt FB Discussion (again)
    It's a shorter response from DW how the hammerschmit peforms (which uses 22T sprocket) with a Pivot Firebird.
    Correct number of bikes: n+1 bikes
    Correct body weight: m-10 pounds

  52. #52
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    1,266
    Quote Originally Posted by wangamachang View Post
    hey guys!
    Just converted my bike to 1x10 with the MRP G2 SL guide as well, and I'm now running a Q Rotor 33t ring (or their equivalent). Do a lot of riding here in SLO on technical climbing terrain. The Q-Rotor Ring 33t is about 31 in its lowest and 36 in its highest and it works incredibly well.
    Here is a crappy phone picture, and the guide has no problem running the ring.
    X9 cranks (GXP) with 1.2mm chainring spacers. Using a X0 triple spider (converted 2x10 to single).
    Love the setup. Legs get the rest, still get the speed, and chain never drops!
    Does Rotor-q make a 33 tooth singlespeed(1x) ring or are you using the 33 tooth out of their triple ring set?

  53. #53
    mtbr member
    Reputation: manchvegas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    1,110
    mmmm I read all through what DW said. I just don't know... I think mainly he was talking about the differences in terrain vs what ring you are in on a traditional 3 ring set up. NO WHERE does he mention anything about the most efficient ring for a single ring set up. I mean, for that fact, you could argue that a 36t single ring set up, up front is just as bad, if not worse for "chainline" than a 28t! Either way it's 4 teeth. What I get out of that article is... a 28t would be better for climbing and flats (duh, captian obvious!) an a 36t would be better for faster smooth flats an down hills! considering I have barely ANY areas where I will need to pedal hard down hill,I think I'll be all set. I mean, seriously, when your screaming down hill through really choppy sections do you pedal through them? I don't, not gonna risk smashing my pedal on a rock an go flying. And when you are screaming down hill and the chance that you are crazy enough to pedal through a real choppy section are you thinking "I wonder if my chainline is correctly oriented to the ground so I can optimize my DW link suspension!" That's pretty much the jist of what he said, so.... I'm not drinkin the Koolaid on that one! HAHA!
    Full time rider part time racer...

    See my adventures here..

    https://www.instagram.com/projectnortheast/

  54. #54
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    261
    Quote Originally Posted by morandi View Post
    Does Rotor-q make a 33 tooth singlespeed(1x) ring or are you using the 33 tooth out of their triple ring set?
    You can find just about anything in the way of chain rings here: http://www.homebrewedcomponents.com

  55. #55
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Yody's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    3,175
    Quote Originally Posted by manchvegas View Post
    mmmm I read all through what DW said. I just don't know... I think mainly he was talking about the differences in terrain vs what ring you are in on a traditional 3 ring set up. NO WHERE does he mention anything about the most efficient ring for a single ring set up. I mean, for that fact, you could argue that a 36t single ring set up, up front is just as bad, if not worse for "chainline" than a 28t! Either way it's 4 teeth. What I get out of that article is... a 28t would be better for climbing and flats (duh, captian obvious!) an a 36t would be better for faster smooth flats an down hills! considering I have barely ANY areas where I will need to pedal hard down hill,I think I'll be all set. I mean, seriously, when your screaming down hill through really choppy sections do you pedal through them? I don't, not gonna risk smashing my pedal on a rock an go flying. And when you are screaming down hill and the chance that you are crazy enough to pedal through a real choppy section are you thinking "I wonder if my chainline is correctly oriented to the ground so I can optimize my DW link suspension!" That's pretty much the jist of what he said, so.... I'm not drinkin the Koolaid on that one! HAHA!


    On flowy single track where there is pedalling involved and you're also keeping momentum by pumping etc, with a 28T front you're gonna have to drop so low in the rear cassette your chain is gonna be recklessly flopping everywhere.

    Anywhere pointing downhill you're basically not even ever going to be able get any pedal strokes in, its gonna feel like you're chain fell off.

    Technical rock climbing is definitely doable with a bigger front ring, for many technical climbs, using a harder gear is actually more beneficial to clear things since you get more thrust and more movement of the rear wheel for every part of the pedal stroke.

    The only way ii see running a 28T on a single with a 10 speed is if you're legs aren't very strong and you ride nothing but real steep climbs and don't care about descending.

  56. #56
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    1,054
    From ibis website:

    Modern suspension bikes are designed such that chainring/cog combinations have a significant effect on suspension dynamics. The Mojo HD suspension is optimized for a 32T chainring. The Hammerschmidt two-speed gearbox has a 22 or 24T chainring that then uses a planetary system to give you the equivalent of a 36T ring in the higher gear. They do it this way because the inefficiency of the planetary system is less detrimental in the high gear than in the low gear. As mentioned before, chainring/cog choice has a significant effect on suspension dynamics, and unfortunately the 22T Hammerschmidt chainring will promote pedal bob.

  57. #57
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    141
    choice is a great thing

    however, i'm going with Yody on this one
    i hate not having any tension on my cranks when hammering trails
    by the way, prior to my 1x10 set up i ran 1x9 on both my enduro and my Ibis, having the 36t on the back is good but not essential

    Manc, i have no idea what you ride like, or where you ride, or what your trails are like etc BUT i'm going to state that after a short time on your 28t set up you wil, or at least will want to, change to a 32t or more.
    if you do go with that get the Ibis Lopes guide, it's just over 100grams and works great

    either way, ride it like you stole it!!!

    A

  58. #58
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    99
    Quote Originally Posted by morandi View Post
    Does Rotor-q make a 33 tooth singlespeed(1x) ring or are you using the 33 tooth out of their triple ring set?
    I used the 33 tooth out of their triple ring set. I didn't bother with the single speed ring as I didn't feel it necessary, and also the triple ring is cheaper. I did have to grind down the little "32-36" number because of the shift pins, but otherwise, a-okay. Love how the bike feels right now.

  59. #59
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    337
    So what would be the optimum set up to order my HD with?

    I figured to go with three ring since it would help on steep hills, I still have time to change it though.

  60. #60
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    1,266
    Quote Originally Posted by mbikerguy View Post
    So what would be the optimum set up to order my HD with?

    I figured to go with three ring since it would help on steep hills, I still have time to change it though.
    I think set up as an overall bike that would give you the most flexibility, I would suggest setting it up with a dual ring set up as a 36t/24t and an 11-36 in the back.

  61. #61
    mtbr member
    Reputation: manchvegas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    1,110
    I dunno guys, I've ridden with a 22/32/44 27spd set up for 15 years. I've been riding my local trails for about the same amount of time. I recently went 2x9 as I never used my big ring for anything ever. I still use my granny ring ALL the time for our tight technical singletrack. As I've said I have a buddy with a 32t on his bike and an mrp guide he is always walkin his bike up when we're riding up, maybe not at the beginning of the ride, but after 12 miles with just a 32t ya get pretty tired. The "widgit" recommends removing 4 chain links to get the right chain tension. Has anyone ever even tried a 28t? Like I said, it's already on my counter, so it's goin on, an I will post up whether or not I like it or not, an whether you guys were right or not.
    Full time rider part time racer...

    See my adventures here..

    https://www.instagram.com/projectnortheast/

  62. #62
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    1,768
    I'm running a 28 t 1x9 and really like the set up. Only problem is every now and then the chain gets caught on the 2.5 rear tire and gets sucked down into the chainstay yoke. If I had a top chain guide this wouldn't happen. Would the e13 guide work in the granny position?

  63. #63
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    141
    Quote Originally Posted by Huck Pitueee View Post
    I'm running a 28 t 1x9 and really like the set up. ........
    On a HD? or other bike?

    best guide for a HD are either of the 2 that MRP make for it
    not sure if the bottom guide would be 'lifting' tha chain much though on a 28t

  64. #64
    mtbr member
    Reputation: manchvegas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    1,110
    Quote Originally Posted by Torwood View Post
    On a HD? or other bike?

    best guide for a HD are either of the 2 that MRP make for it
    not sure if the bottom guide would be 'lifting' tha chain much though on a 28t
    What kind of 28t ring are you using? Is it in the granny position, or are you using a "widgit" with the offset into the middle ring position? I can't see it happening with a widgit as it's offset all the way into the middle position, that and proper chain tension.
    Full time rider part time racer...

    See my adventures here..

    https://www.instagram.com/projectnortheast/

  65. #65
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    1,768
    Do any of the chain guides work for the granny ring? I'm loving the 28 tooth for a 1x9. A Blackspire stinger is not enough. Needs a top guide also.

  66. #66
    mtbr santa cruz member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    145
    Manc,
    I have my HD set up as a 1X10. We live close to each other. What trails are you riding? I have ridden everything from the cape to the White Mountains and haven't walked many trails. We often have over 1000ft of climbing on every ride. Not a ton but a climbing but that is about all we have in the area.

  67. #67
    mtbr member
    Reputation: manchvegas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    1,110
    I do ALOT of riding on.... private trails. I say private because, it's mostly on private land an it's not advertised. I do ride bear brook alot. but where I do most my riding is alot of ups an downs with 1100 vert climbs. We rode saturday (too hot!!!) an did 1150 vert ft in about 1 mile and then desended the same in about 2 miles.
    Full time rider part time racer...

    See my adventures here..

    https://www.instagram.com/projectnortheast/

  68. #68
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Yody's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    3,175
    1100 feet in one mile does sound steep

  69. #69
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    28
    I'm having this dilemma too. I really want to run 1x10 and have short cage derail for snappy shifty (and less likely to get hung up on crap), and no front derail or front shifter. Nice and clean. At most of my local trails I run 32t 11-34 100% of the time. But at Chilhowee, I do lots of climbing right from the start, and my favorite stuff is really slow, really rocky climbing sections that I have to run in 22t/30. I never ever run 22t/34 as there is not even enough momentum to roll through a dog terd. So the smallest gear i use on the 3x9 (22t/30) would equal a 26t/36 in the 1x10. If I run a 26t single chainring, to get the low gear I need, I'm sure I would spin out too soon. I could get strong enough to run my favorite rocky sections with a 28t but I think I'd still spin out, 'cause I think I do use 32t/11 sometimes. Bummer. I was really hoping to run 1x10 and punt the stupid front derail/shifter.

    Maybe I could do 1x10 and change out chain rings for different trail systems.

    Although, I think I'd be too limited in a 40 mile race with just one chainring.

    And the Homebrewed spiderless chainring on a X9/X0 was looking super sweet too. Damn it!



    I guess I could give this hot mess a try and it it didn't work out I could just put the 2x spider back on...

    Anybody know of any other good cranks that would let a man switch between 1x10 and a proper 2x10 w/ a good chainline (unlike a 3x converted to a 2x by removing the big ring)?

    Thanks.

  70. #70
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    1,266
    Quote Originally Posted by Yody View Post
    I just got the MRP ibis guide and went 1x10, stay tuned for a review

    Any further thoughts on the 1x10 HD? Love to hear em.

  71. #71
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    261
    Just cheat if you must. Its cheap and give you options with no FD without all the drama or endless configurations...

    Early season:
    Take a 3 spider crank set, and nix the derailleur. Put whatever you want on the spider... and just ride the middle ring.

    Mid-late season:
    You'll be strong enough to muscle through on a front 32t. And you can remove the inner/outer rings at your discretion, or leave them "just in case".

    Pluses: improved strength and endurance, and you still have a "way out" if you are having an off-day or encounter a blow-up climb. It takes commitment and discipline to always try to grind it out in the middle but if you stay with it you'll be almost ready to ride with the SS kids by the end of season.

    Minuses: your hand could get a little dirty.

    .02

    rodeoj

  72. #72
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    1,266
    Been experimenting with a 1 x 10 on my HD. Did it ghetto style just to test the waters. Removed the 24, 36.. slapped a 32t singlespeed ring I had laying around, and fixed the front der.
    I have to say so far so good. Its really nice just thinking about shifting the rear. And it has not been as painful as I thought it would be. What was interesting to me was that while some of the steep climbing sections were obviously a bit more gut busting, I'm finding the overall ride easier. Because I had a tendency to spend a lot of time in my middle ring anyway, dropping to a 32 from a 36 provides a bit more relief over the long haul.
    I think it also forces you to ride more smoothly and take advantage of your momentum. Thumbs up.

  73. #73
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    829
    Quote Originally Posted by morandi View Post
    I have to say so far so good. Its really nice just thinking about shifting the rear. And it has not been as painful as I thought it would be. What was interesting to me was that while some of the steep climbing sections were obviously a bit more gut busting, I'm finding the overall ride easier. Because I had a tendency to spend a lot of time in my middle ring anyway, dropping to a 32 from a 36 provides a bit more relief over the long haul.
    I think it also forces you to ride more smoothly and take advantage of your momentum. Thumbs up.
    i agree with all this except the whole 32t change.... i love my 36t .... but thats cause i HATE SPINNING LIKE CRAZY and going nowhere....

  74. #74
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    1,266
    Any thoughts/recommendations between the MRP G2 SL guide and the Lopes SL guide for going 1 x1 0 on the HD?
    Seems the weight diff between the two is not a whole lot.

  75. #75
    GUIDANCE COUNSELOR
    Reputation: NoahColorado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3,277
    Quote Originally Posted by morandi View Post
    Any thoughts/recommendations between the MRP G2 SL guide and the Lopes SL guide for going 1 x1 0 on the HD?
    Seems the weight diff between the two is not a whole lot.
    Yeah, about 65g. The guides are based on the same design, the only differences being that the G2 SL has an integrated skid to protect your chainring and the Lopes has a slightly larger chainring compatibility range (32-38 vs. 32-36 on the G2 SL).
    NOAH SEARS
    MRP - Brand Manager
    Pivot Cycles - Team Rider

  76. #76
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    829
    LOPES guide .... i did the small mod (file at red lines- 1/8" or less to fit to bash) to the top/bottom guide and it works PERFECT with my bash.. .. FSA 36T w/ FSA bash, 11x32 cassette (need to go back to 11x34- no $$ at this time) i ride all types of terrain and other than the bigger/looser hills on my ride i can clear everything with no problems..


  77. #77
    mtbr member
    Reputation: monkeymotion's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    4
    Quote Originally Posted by manchvegas View Post
    Like I said, it's already on my counter, so it's goin on, an I will post up whether or not I like it or not, an whether you guys were right or not.
    So manchvegas, any verdict on the 28t widgit?

  78. #78
    mtbr member
    Reputation: manchvegas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    1,110
    Quote Originally Posted by monkeymotion View Post
    So manchvegas, any verdict on the 28t widgit?
    Hey.... I have had my HD for about 2 weeks now. I have 3 rides on varied terrain, some all mountain climbing and descending with some big chunky sections, technical cross country an some more technical all mountain with some good size 3-4' hucks an some super fast downhills an jumps at speed (nothing huge). My HD weighed in at 26.75 pounds at the bikeshop set up 1x9 with the 28t widget up front without pedals. I have to say... I love the 28t. It's perfect, I can still climb the stuff I used my granny ring on, an I can still pedal with my buddies on the road an not run out of gear unless we are going downhill prolly over 25-30mph which isn't often. the 9 gears are nice, an the gear range is spread out enough that i'm usually just clicking back an forth between a couple gears. I've had NO chain drops an to give you an idea of how I ride... I've already destroyed the stock mutano tires my last ride, ripped gashes in both of them (they really suck IMO and not suited for the HD at all!) I haven't even come close to rubbing the chainring on logs or rocks cuz it's so high off the ground, unless your being a dummy an trying to clear a huge log without anything on either side I can't see it ever really being a problem. So far so good. The only thing is theinside of the chainguides is rubbing the chain on the highest an lowest gear but.... just barely, an not worried about it, as it would be rubbing any other chainguide set up as well. Hope this helps!
    Full time rider part time racer...

    See my adventures here..

    https://www.instagram.com/projectnortheast/

  79. #79
    mtbr member
    Reputation: monkeymotion's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    4
    Thanks manchvegas. I'm glad it's working out. I've been debating on either getting a HBC 31t SS chainring with a bbg 'bashwich', or a 28t or 30t Widgit. My Giant RXO is right around 31lbs, and I'm not a super athlete so I like the simplicity and gearing options of the Widgit. A lot of people are balking at the price, but if this chainring works well enough to not need a chain guide, then I think you're money ahead.

  80. #80
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    1,768
    Quote Originally Posted by Yody View Post
    On flowy single track where there is pedalling involved and you're also keeping momentum by pumping etc, with a 28T front you're gonna have to drop so low in the rear cassette your chain is gonna be recklessly flopping everywhere.



    The only way ii see running a 28T on a single with a 10 speed is if you're legs aren't very strong and you ride nothing but real steep climbs and don't care about descending.
    What if you have a beer gut and mostly ride technical DH. I tried a 28 and it was not bad. I put on an MRP chain guide so switched to a 32. Now I walk more.

  81. #81
    mtbr member
    Reputation: manchvegas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    1,110
    I can ride just about anything with 28t that I used to ride with my 22/32. I LOVE IT! Anyone who says you have week legs.... bring it on an come ride where we ride! If you've done your research like I have, you know you only lose the top hardest gear of a 32 as the gain ratios are so close but yet it gives you one or 2 lower gears for climbing......
    Full time rider part time racer...

    See my adventures here..

    https://www.instagram.com/projectnortheast/

  82. #82
    mtbr member
    Reputation: monkeymotion's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    4
    Manchvegas,

    I took the leap and bought a 28t widgit for my 08 Giant RXO. I've got 20+ 10-20 mile rides on it now in places here in SoCal like Sycamore Cyn, Hulda Crooks, San Juan Trail, M Trail, Santa Rosa Plateau, etc. You were right, it's a perfect compromise. I notice I'm cresting hills with a little more speed now since I lost my lowest gear, and the only time it hurts is when I'm stuck behind someone who's given up and spinning their 22t granny gear. I haven't missed my fastest gears either. I'm glad I found your post and took your advice!
    Last edited by monkeymotion; 12-03-2011 at 09:02 AM. Reason: Missing info

  83. #83
    mtbr member
    Reputation: manchvegas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    1,110
    no problem! I have about 20 rides on my set up now as well. everything from fast down hills, light freeride, an a few chairlift park days. I love the gearing, and don't miss my old set up at all. I have hit my widget a few times on rocks etc.. I do find the chainguide rings (they aren't meant to replace a bash) are fragile, but.. I haven't destroyed it yet if I bend it too much, I'll just bend it out an if they get tooo back I'll just buy the replacements. The only thing I have noticed is a little chainslap on the upper chainstay. I'm sure I would get that with any set up though. I have NEVER come close to losing my chain either.... glad you like it
    Full time rider part time racer...

    See my adventures here..

    https://www.instagram.com/projectnortheast/

  84. #84
    mtbr member
    Reputation: kakachi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    170
    I just returned from the mountains in Chiang Mai, Northen Thailand with my 1x10, using a 28T widgit. It worked well for me even though the trails were mainly DH as I'm not really a good rider, just cruising and riding along without pedaling was enough for me. I have to say the widgit is not really good for DH though, as I bottomed out on some rock gardens and my widgit got dinged in the process. Had to pry the material back with a plier and it worked good as new again. So for normal trail riding I'd say it's definitely very doable.

  85. #85
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Portti's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    223
    Does anybody have experiences on E13 XCX chainguide on Mojo SL (or Mojo Classic/HD)? Would that work in combination with XTR/XT 10 speed 11-36 cassette + XTR Shadow Plus rear derailleur + some 32 t single chainring?

    XTR FC-M970 crank compatible 32 t chainring recommendations would also be welcome.
    Pertti
    Lahti, Finland
    MC Kramppi

  86. #86
    aka...appBLING72
    Reputation: aappling72's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    949
    Quote Originally Posted by _dw View Post
    I'm running an e*thirteen LG1+ with a 36T ring on one of the HD prototypes here, the stock e13 guide fits right up with no modifications, and at about 100g lighter than the MRP option I have the bike built up around 27 lbs. I'm also running the 15g cranks on the HD. If I were riding Bootleg I'd probably switch to a 34T ring up front.
    Do you think the E13 LG1 Trail would work on the MOJO HD instead of the recommended MRP guide?

  87. #87
    aka...appBLING72
    Reputation: aappling72's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    949

    E13 LG1 TR for HD???

    Will this guide work if I used a BB mounted ISCG 05 adaptor and mount it to it?

  88. #88
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Portti's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    223
    Nobody?

    Quote Originally Posted by Portti View Post
    Does anybody have experiences on E13 XCX chainguide on Mojo SL (or Mojo Classic/HD)? Would that work in combination with XTR/XT 10 speed 11-36 cassette + XTR Shadow Plus rear derailleur + some 32 t single chainring?

    XTR FC-M970 crank compatible 32 t chainring recommendations would also be welcome.
    Pertti
    Lahti, Finland
    MC Kramppi

  89. #89
    mtbr member
    Reputation: kakachi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    170
    XTR 980 crank triple with new widgit 28t mounted on granny tabs (bcd 64) with new widgit bash mounted where the big ring is (bcd 104).

    A trophy bike is easier to maintain than a trophy car. Both are easier to maintain than a trophy wife.

  90. #90
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    141
    Quote Originally Posted by kakachi View Post
    XTR 980 crank triple with new widgit 28t mounted on........
    i really can't understand this 28t chainring thing, particularly on a 160mm travel bike

    maybe it's me.....

  91. #91
    mtbr member
    Reputation: kakachi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    170
    Quote Originally Posted by Torwood View Post
    i really can't understand this 28t chainring thing, particularly on a 160mm travel bike

    maybe it's me.....
    Not so gifted in the muscle department, but thank God I can buy
    A trophy bike is easier to maintain than a trophy car. Both are easier to maintain than a trophy wife.

  92. #92
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    110
    Quote Originally Posted by Torwood View Post
    i really can't understand this 28t chainring thing, particularly on a 160mm travel bike

    maybe it's me.....
    Depends on your set up. If it's your "do all" bike it's not ideal but damn it's close!

  93. #93
    The Crow
    Reputation: Iwan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    935
    Quote Originally Posted by kakachi View Post
    Not so gifted in the muscle department, but thank God I can buy

    Gotta love a honest answer!
    There's a feeling I get
    When I look to the West
    And my spirit is crying for leaving

  94. #94
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    83
    The widgit thing looks very clean and simple, how it's going after this months? still rocking? By the way, i think a rear derrailleur with clutch like type 2 or shadow plus would keep the chain with better tension i think.

  95. #95
    mtbr member
    Reputation: monkeymotion's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    4
    Going on almost a year of use/abuse now and it's still working really well for me, but I only ride about 30 miles a week. I used it on my Reign XO until a couple months ago, now it's on my Trance X Advanced SL and I'm still glad I bought the 28t to go with my 11-34t cassette and XO derailleur. I still can't climb all the way up Mathis Cyn Trail at Aliso on it though I'm not running a chain guide and I have yet to drop the chain. San Juan Trail, Noble Canyon in San Diego, Lynx at Aliso, chairlifts in Big Bear included. I'm not the fastest/craziest of my friends but I started out riding dirt bikes and bmx in the late 70's and got my first mountain bike in '94. Hope this helps!

    Quote Originally Posted by juan_manuel View Post
    The widgit thing looks very clean and simple, how it's going after this months? still rocking? By the way, i think a rear derrailleur with clutch like type 2 or shadow plus would keep the chain with better tension i think.

  96. #96
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Geeze6700's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    103
    Dave, I dug up this old thread. I want to convert my 2012 hd 2x10 to a 1x10. I understand the HD is optimized for a 32t ring. Would a 30t be much of a compromise? Not sure I should stress my worn out knees with a 32t.

  97. #97
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    156
    I started my HD160 with the Race Face SIXC 36-24 rings and XTR 11-36 in the back, I liked because these crankset came from my Yeti ASR7 but the 10V was the improvement on my HD, after I installed the MRP chainguide and switched to 33tooth e-13 ring in front, at the beginning was some kind hard to push in some sections but when gained fitness all was solved. I loved doesn't use the front shifter and derailleur, just my seatpost command in the left side. Now I changed to XX1 and I loved like nothing in this mtb world, only complains was the chain rub with the rear triangle in the 10 tooth cog, I placed 2 shims normally used between the pedals and crank and problem solved.

  98. #98
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Salespunk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    4,981
    You will be fine with a 30T. I will say you should try the 32T before you rule it out even if you think you have knee problems. I have had surgery on both knees and ended up on a 36T 1x10 setup. I also went the e13 route rather than the MRP.

Members who have read this thread: 0

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •