Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 50 of 98

Thread: 1x10 Mojo HD

  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    61

    1x10 Mojo HD

    Just purchased the G2 chainguard for my HD and am going to try a 1x10 gearing set up. Anyone with experience here as far as gearing (cassette/front gear) to choose? I plan on this truly being my "all around" bike. I live in Las Vegas and ride Bootleg Canyon (steep climbs and flowing downhills). I am more worried about being able to climb in the lowest gear than to hit the highest speeds. Was looking at the new SRAM XO group, or taking suggestions. Any input is appreciated.

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    61
    Was looking at the SRAM 11/36 rear cassette and 32 ring up front? Not sure how hard it is going to be to get this thing up some steep climbs? Cant seem to find a gearing chart that has the 36 rear (too new?).

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    531
    I've been experimenting to see if I could get away with a 1x10 by trying to ride solely in the middle ring. New Dynasys so 32x11-36. Riding terrain around Calgary, mostly Moose Mountain so Alberta Rockies.

    I would say I've been in the middle ring 99% of the time. So far all my rides on Moose including some 4+ hour rides and 1+ hour straight climbing(Pneuma trail up) I have not needed to drop down to the granny. However, there are a couple climbs in the city, one in particular that I can only clean by dropping my Talas and going to the granny, and another which as I'm fatiguing after a couple hours like to drop to the granny. Conclusion: I'm keeping the granny because I want to make all my climbs. Close, but not close enough with just the 32...too bad.
    Last edited by robnow; 07-08-2010 at 09:01 PM.

  4. #4
    1 bike to ride them all
    Reputation: CANADIANBACON's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    211
    Agree with robnow.

    Set-up my HD with a Truvativ Stylo 36/24TH crank set paired with a SRAM XX 11-36 cassette. Used this set-up for a 160 mile trip of mixed technical singletrack and some fire road. The combo worked well. Spent more time than I would have thought in the 36. The 24th ring created a really low a ratio that was great but I.M.O. overkill for everything except the steepest of wall like climbs. Not as useful as I would have thought.

    Switched to the Mini G/The Hive 15g crank w/34th ring/SRAM XX 11-36 cassette about 3 weeks ago. Have about 150 miles on this set-up. As you might expect the 34TH ring gets spun-out pretty quickly on any descent longer than a couple hundred yards, and YES climbing steep stuff definitely requires nut busting effort. That said I am going to tuff it out for a while longer.

    Based on my experience to date, my preferred set-up would be the 15G crankset w/Ethirteen Turbocharger, 38/26TH rings and a SRAM X.O 11-36 cassette instead of the XX for obvious fiscal reasons.

  5. #5
    _dw
    _dw is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,269
    I'm running an e*thirteen LG1+ with a 36T ring on one of the HD prototypes here, the stock e13 guide fits right up with no modifications, and at about 100g lighter than the MRP option I have the bike built up around 27 lbs. I'm also running the 15g cranks on the HD. If I were riding Bootleg I'd probably switch to a 34T ring up front.
    dw★link
    Split Pivot
    @daveweagle -Twitter

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    377
    Quote Originally Posted by _dw
    I'm running an e*thirteen LG1+ with a 36T ring on one of the HD prototypes here, the stock e13 guide fits right up with no modifications, and at about 100g lighter than the MRP option I have the bike built up around 27 lbs. I'm also running the 15g cranks on the HD. If I were riding Bootleg I'd probably switch to a 34T ring up front.
    Nice weight. Which wheels, tires and fork do you ride?

  7. #7
    _dw
    _dw is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,269
    Quote Originally Posted by Fadl
    Nice weight. Which wheels, tires and fork do you ride?
    FOX 36 with DT wheels and WTB 2,35 tires
    dw★link
    Split Pivot
    @daveweagle -Twitter

  8. #8
    Homer's problem child
    Reputation: Bortis Yelltzen's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    1,322
    Quote Originally Posted by _dw
    I'm running an e*thirteen LG1+ with a 36T ring on one of the HD prototypes here, the stock e13 guide fits right up with no modifications.
    Just an FYI, I had to grind my E13 DRS plate and wear guide significantly to get everything to fit with no rubbing and proper alignment. The machined rib/tab on the back side of the plate needed to have almost an inch removed. I also rounded off the wear plate by about 3/4 of an inch.

    All said and done it is much quieter than my previous set ups (Stingers, Heim's, etc...)

    BY
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro....

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    26
    I have been running a 1x10 setup on my Mojo SL for almost a year. This company from Austrailia was on this forum a while back. www.widgit.com.au
    I run an 11-34 cassette and run a 28t up front. They also have a 30t available. Not even wishing for a granny option. No problems, no guide, and it puts the chain line in between the granny and the middle, so no problem running in the big cassette gear for extended climbs. Take a look and see, simplifies the 1x10 project. The guy that owns the company is fantastic with his customer service and responds quickly if you have a question. It may seem a little pricey but it is a quick and uncomplicated install that works well. I use a bashguard in the spot where the big ring used to be.

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    61
    Thanks for the link Vinmann. Interesting alternative.

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bbarson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    67
    I also live in Vegas and am waiting for my matte carbon HD to be delivered. I plan on running a 1x10 with an 11-36t cassette and the fifteen.g 34t SS crankset too. I think it is going to be the perfect setup for 99% of Vegas area riding.
    Ibis Mojo HD matte carbon w/ Fox DHX RC4 & Fox 36 Talas 180

    snmba.org

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    95
    Does the wigit work with 10 spd chains?

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    26
    Yes, I just converted my 1x9 to a Sram XO 1x10 using the Widgit. I am using a short cage XO rear Deraileur, XO right trigger shifter with an XX rear cassette 11-36t. I got the rear deraileur, and right shifter from a seller in Hong Kong. Really work flawless, and the 10 speed chain works great with the Widgit. Paul Hagarty owns the Widgit company and he is fantastic to deal with. He also has a Mojo SL.

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    897
    Does the Widget keep the chain from jumping off the bottom of the front sprocket if a slight back peddle is done over rough terrain?

    I'm using an MRP 1x and it works good for most of the time but every so often the chain will jump off the bottom of my 32t ring and cause a jam up. If the Widget fixes the problem I'd try one.

    Mojo

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    26
    There may be other reasons the chain jumps, but the
    widgit has guides(shields) on both sides of the sprocket that prevents that from happening. Correct chain length and rear derailleur spring tension need to be correct first for any single front chain ring to work properly, without tensioners. The Widgit has to be cleaned out once in a while as some trail debris will gather between the sprocket and the shields. I know they say the drag on the chain with tensioners is minimal, but I like the fact that nothing is riding on the chain up front with this set up.

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    897
    Quote Originally Posted by vinmann3
    There may be other reasons the chain jumps, but the
    widgit has guides(shields) on both sides of the sprocket that prevents that from happening. Correct chain length and rear derailleur spring tension need to be correct first for any single front chain ring to work properly, without tensioners. The Widgit has to be cleaned out once in a while as some trail debris will gather between the sprocket and the shields. I know they say the drag on the chain with tensioners is minimal, but I like the fact that nothing is riding on the chain up front with this set up.
    With top mounted chain guides, lower chain jumping is very common in aggressive riding. When the chain is moving side to side during heavy bumps a slight back peddle movement is all it takes to cause chain jamming or derailment. Many are going to a lower chain sprocket/idler set up to prevent this. I'm not to keen on this arangement due to the extra sprocket noise.

    When riding a Mojo most are prone to ride it hard and utilize the full 5.5 inches of travel, this is aggressive riding and most 1x9/1x10 top mounted guides will eventually have chain jam. I'm told it is more common with smaller front chain rings such as a 32 t.

    Mojo

  17. #17
    GUIDANCE COUNSELOR
    Reputation: NoahColorado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3,143
    Or there is this......

    coming soon
    NOAH SEARS
    MRP
    TECH QUESTIONS HERE: INFO@MRPBIKE.COM

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bbarson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    67
    Quote Originally Posted by NoahColorado
    Or there is this......

    coming soon
    Which model is this? Is it Mojo specific?
    Ibis Mojo HD matte carbon w/ Fox DHX RC4 & Fox 36 Talas 180

    snmba.org

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation: doismellbacon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    2,325

    Another way to look at this....

    Quote Originally Posted by Kenny Holding
    Was looking at the SRAM 11/36 rear cassette and 32 ring up front? Not sure how hard it is going to be to get this thing up some steep climbs? Cant seem to find a gearing chart that has the 36 rear (too new?).
    If you run a single 32t ring w/ an 11-36 cassette, your lowest gear will produce (+or- based on actual wheel diameter) 23.1 gear inches, which puts it right in between the ratios you get from a 22t granny and the 23t and 26t cassette cogs (23t = 24.9 gear inches, 26t = 22.0 gear inches).

    In other words, the 32/36 will be just about as low a gear as your old 22t granny and the 3rd from the biggest (26t) cassette cog. The new bike enthusiasm should give you enough extra horse power to make up that one gear inch you're missing.

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    897
    Quote Originally Posted by NoahColorado
    Or there is this......

    coming soon
    That looks like the new pivot mounted bumerange, very nice, but when will it be available for the SL Do you need someone to help test it

    P.S. Make sure it is available with a Ti pivot bolt.

    Mojo

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    107
    That's exactly what I'm wanting to run on my mojo. Is this going to work?

  22. #22
    GUIDANCE COUNSELOR
    Reputation: NoahColorado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3,143
    Like a charm...

    No ETA at this point, sorry for the tease.
    NOAH SEARS
    MRP
    TECH QUESTIONS HERE: INFO@MRPBIKE.COM

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    107
    I take it that the drilled out hole is for the lower link? How long of a wait are we talking? Month or like six months? I wanted the g2 mini without the bashguared. This will be perfect.

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    107
    Will this Lopes SL work on the normal Mojo? Or should I wait for the custom looking one above?
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    828

    New question here.

    Quote Originally Posted by supersquad3 View Post
    Will this Lopes SL work on the normal Mojo? Or should I wait for the custom looking one above?
    .... same question....

  26. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Tall Tom's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    97
    The Lopes SL available from our webstore or an Ibis dealer will work. You'll also need the "Mojo SL-MRP Chainguide Adapter" that replaces the forward pivot axel. This combo will clock the guide properly and keep it from rotating. Also, you may need to file off a little of the lower roller inner plate to prevent interference with the swing arm at top out.

    Take Care,
    Tom

  27. #27
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Yody's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    3,175
    I just got the MRP ibis guide and went 1x10, stay tuned for a review

  28. #28
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    828

    New question here.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tall Tom View Post
    The Lopes SL available from our webstore or an Ibis dealer will work. You'll also need the "Mojo SL-MRP Chainguide Adapter" that replaces the forward pivot axel. This combo will clock the guide properly and keep it from rotating. Also, you may need to file off a little of the lower roller inner plate to prevent interference with the swing arm at top out.

    Take Care,
    Tom
    does this mean that the LOPES CHAIN GUIDE sold on the IBIS site now has the new design w/ the lower link hole ready to go ??
    if i cant figure out a cheaper way to set this up then i guess ill pull the trigger on the LOPES guide.....so much money...

  29. #29
    GUIDANCE COUNSELOR
    Reputation: NoahColorado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3,143
    The Ibis version and the standard version of the MRP Lopes SL guide are different in two ways:

    1)The Ibis version adds the pivot mount
    2)The upper and lower guides are positioned wider than standard to accomodate for the low chainstay on the Mojos. With a standard Lopes the upper guide would end up clocked closer to 11:30 than 12:00 as would be the case with the Ibis model.

    *The Ibis model also works well on other designs with similar chainstay positions (VPP especially). The pivot mount can only be utilized with Ibis, but it otherwise works just like a standard BB mount guide.

    Happy trails!
    NOAH SEARS
    MRP
    TECH QUESTIONS HERE: INFO@MRPBIKE.COM

  30. #30
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    191
    i'm running 1x10 on my sl with a 32 and 11-36. i'm planning to switch to a 34 up front but until then, i've been happy with this setup. to keep the chain in place, i use the front derailleur, no cable or shifter, and adjust the limit screw out so it just rubs when i'm in the 36 in back. i've had very few drops and no jams to date. with a 34 it should be even better since the chain will sit slightly higher against the front derailleur. also, i could take a link or two out to reduce the chain slap but want to get the 34 on first.

    a few years ago i tried one of those mrp guides on my heckler and hated it. significant drag on the chain and it was constantly moving from impacts. it kept the chain in place, but not without being very noticeable. not ideal for a 'set it and forget' type like myself.

  31. #31
    GUIDANCE COUNSELOR
    Reputation: NoahColorado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3,143
    Quote Originally Posted by roseyscot View Post
    a few years ago i tried one of those mrp guides on my heckler and hated it. significant drag on the chain and it was constantly moving from impacts. it kept the chain in place, but not without being very noticeable. not ideal for a 'set it and forget' type like myself.
    I'm sorry you had a less-than-stellar experience.

    The Lopes guide was not available a few years ago, so I don't think you tried that one. As for drag, when properly setup there can't be significant "added" drag compared to drivetrain without a tensioner. For one, our pulleys are 9t - smaller than those on a derailleur. Secondly, where the chain encounters the pulley it is under very little stress or tension. So, while the pulley/tensioner certainly adds some "drag" it is a minuscule amount compared to that added by the derailleur pulleys, freehub, and even the cumulative effect of the chain's links (and those are just drivetain parts, let us not forget knobby tires, loose spokes, etc.). So again, with a proper setup there should be almost no noticeable added drag with chainguide.

    It would be interesting to see which system has more drag; one with a tensioner mechanism or one with an excessively shortened chain.
    NOAH SEARS
    MRP
    TECH QUESTIONS HERE: INFO@MRPBIKE.COM

  32. #32
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    1,265
    I really want to go 1x10.....but I'm scared.

  33. #33
    mtbr member
    Reputation: manchvegas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    1,099
    I am plannin on goin 1x9 with 11/34 an 28t widgit upfront. I'll post up how it goes when my bike finally gets in
    Full time rider part time racer...

    See my adventures here..

    https://www.instagram.com/projectnortheast/

  34. #34
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    141
    Quote Originally Posted by manchvegas View Post
    I am plannin on goin 1x9 with 11/34 an 28t widgit upfront. I'll post up how it goes when my bike finally gets in
    28t drive!!!!!!

    guess it'll climb well......


    if anyone is unsure of going single ring my advise would be just do it and get the MRP Ibis guide, either one is good.
    my personal set up is 36t drive with 11-36 10 speed rear, it's suprising what you can get up when you run ou of choices, actually thinking of putting on a 37t

  35. #35
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Tim-H's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    1,031
    I think 28t is way too small too. I'd suggest at least a 32t ring. I'm running 2x with a bash on my hardtail with a 32t and barely ever switch out of it. This is in western WA with quite a bit of up and down out here.

  36. #36
    mtbr member
    Reputation: manchvegas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    1,099
    I'm in NH, do alot of all mountain riding alot of technical climbing etc... I'll share my research an what led me to the 28t.....

    Comparing the same cassette 11/34 (9spd remember, not 10) With a traditional 3 ring front set up being 22/32/44 and with a 28t widgit, here is how the gain ratios come out....


    front 22t Front 32t Front 28t widgit

    rear cassette
    11- 3.8 5.6 4.9
    13- 3.2 4.7 4.1
    15- 2.8 4.1 3.6
    17- 2.5 3.6 3.2
    20- 2.1 3.1 2.7
    23- 1.8 2.7 2.3
    26- 1.6 2.4 2.1
    30- 1.4 2.0 1.8
    34- 1.2 1.8 1.6


    So, as you can see, on the left is the cassette teeth, an follow accross to the right for the different chainrings. I didn't put the 44t cuz... I figured it would get my point across, but if people really want to know here is how it goes... by going with a 28t front vs a 22/32 above you lose the 30/34 on the 22 (the 2 easiest on the granny ring) an you lose the 11 on the 32t (the hardest gear on the "middle" ring) an if I had put in the 44t, you would see you only lose the top 3 hardest gears on the 44t. When you look at it like that, you don't really lose alot to gain alot. no front der, no shifter, one singlespeed beefy ring up front etc... the gain ratios change once you put a 12/36 10 spd cassette on, you can get away with running a 32 or even a 34, that's why 1x10 is so popular. my way is great for people like me that have a full X0 9spd group an want to go 1x9, but want a wide range of gears without shelling out hundreds an hundreds of dollars to convert up to 10spd. If I was buying a bike with 10spd I would be running a traditional 32t up front to get a 1x10 set up. But I cheaped out, bought an SLX kit mojo HD an swapped my 6 month old X0 drivetrain over an bought a widgit!
    Full time rider part time racer...

    See my adventures here..

    https://www.instagram.com/projectnortheast/

  37. #37
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Yody's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    3,175
    I didn't read your research, but if you have to use a 28T front ring, its likely a single ring up front isn't for you.

  38. #38
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    441
    I made the switch to 1x10 on my HD, 32 up front 36t rear. on the upside it's great for my typical bay area riding and has made me both a stronger climber and a better technical rider. On the downside it definitely wears your legs faster - I have yet to do any epics or climb at altitude but would probably have to throw the granny on to do so. What I am really hoping for is for is a 38t or 39t cassette to come out hopefully a 9-38 with an integrated freehub: http://www.bikeradar.com/news/articl...freehub-27582/

  39. #39
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    1,265
    Quote Originally Posted by Yody View Post
    I didn't read your research, but if you have to use a 28T front ring, its likely a single ring up front isn't for you.
    East coast riding can be a whole different kettle of fish, depending on where you ride, and it has its own requirements.
    When I lived back east, all of my local rides were super slow technical rocky singletrack that was more like trials riding compared to the wide open fast westcoast where I ride/live now. Ground clearance was important, zero need of a big ring, yet you also don't really need something as low as a granny ring. That being said 28t does sound small, for me, if I was riding where I used to, a 30t would probably hit the spot.

  40. #40
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    2
    mrp is very good,but 1X10,i can't ride it ,need more power for me 一_一" !!

  41. #41
    mtbr member
    Reputation: manchvegas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    1,099
    haha, I love how people comment an don't even read peoples' replies. Kinda like most people do in politics, no real hard research, just opinions. Yes, 28 may sound small, but you only lose the one hardest gear on the 32t. an you only lose the easiest 2 gears on the granny ring. There are climbs around here that I will literally drop my fork down to 120mm an put it in the granny ring an climb. Riding around here is pretty technical in places. My buddy has an enduro with a 32t ring an mrp chain guide, an he's usually walkin up the hills while the rest of us pass riding up. I really don't think a 9x38 rear cassette is needed either. Check the gain ratios with a 11x36. Here is an example I made at sheldon browns website. It's a good way to see what you have an compare to what you think you wanna do.

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/

    Well, I tried but the link wouldn't work.... but it's a good resource anyway, it wouldn't let me enter it in an then post a link for some reason.
    Full time rider part time racer...

    See my adventures here..

    https://www.instagram.com/projectnortheast/

  42. #42
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    50
    34 front with 11/36 rear

  43. #43
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    99
    hey guys!
    Just converted my bike to 1x10 with the MRP G2 SL guide as well, and I'm now running a Q Rotor 33t ring (or their equivalent). Do a lot of riding here in SLO on technical climbing terrain. The Q-Rotor Ring 33t is about 31 in its lowest and 36 in its highest and it works incredibly well.
    Here is a crappy phone picture, and the guide has no problem running the ring.
    X9 cranks (GXP) with 1.2mm chainring spacers. Using a X0 triple spider (converted 2x10 to single).
    Love the setup. Legs get the rest, still get the speed, and chain never drops!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 1x10 Mojo HD-284576_10150235351345806_707370805_7800640_2508028_n.jpg  


  44. #44
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    1,054
    Quote Originally Posted by manchvegas View Post
    haha, I love how people comment an don't even read peoples' replies. Kinda like most people do in politics, no real hard research, just opinions. Yes, 28 may sound small, but you only lose the one hardest gear on the 32t. an you only lose the easiest 2 gears on the granny ring. There are climbs around here that I will literally drop my fork down to 120mm an put it in the granny ring an climb. Riding around here is pretty technical in places. My buddy has an enduro with a 32t ring an mrp chain guide, an he's usually walkin up the hills while the rest of us pass riding up. I really don't think a 9x38 rear cassette is needed either. Check the gain ratios with a 11x36. Here is an example I made at sheldon browns website. It's a good way to see what you have an compare to what you think you wanna do.

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/

    Well, I tried but the link wouldn't work.... but it's a good resource anyway, it wouldn't let me enter it in an then post a link for some reason.
    I see your reasoning, but just looking at gear ratios alone doesn't tell the whole picture and I find a noticeable decrease in efficiency and performance with front rings smaller than a 30. I am not an engineer, so I can't easily explain the principle. But I do know that even if you are running the exact same gear ratio, there will be a different feel and action on the suspension system between a gearing using a 32 up front and one using a 22, 28, or 40. For whatever reason, the dw link suspension on an ibis seems to be at it's most efficient with a 32-36 front ring and that's why it's so awesome set up as a 1x10. I personally use a 36, but I know that may be a bit tall for others. My thinking is that I also ride a SS and have never thought that I needed any gearing easier than a 1:1.

  45. #45
    mtbr member
    Reputation: manchvegas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    1,099
    I understand your skepticism, but gain ratios don't lie. And it's a whole different ball game going with an 11/36 rear cassette. I just didn't want to change to a 10 spd drivetrain when I just bought my XO groupo 6 months ago, that is the ONLY reason I am going 28t up front. If I was going 10spd an had the more climber friendly 11/36 rear cassette I would probably be putting a 32 up front. I think that's what people are looking past, the difference between a 1x9 (which is what I'm using) and a 1x10. It doesn't sound like much, but it makes a big difference, otherwise, 1x10 wouldn't exist. 1x9 was never really THAT popular, an I don't think it ever will be with the introduction of 1x10 an the ease of compatibility with stock 32 front chain rings. But, the introduction of a 28/30t front ring with something like the widgit allows a 1x9 spd to have close to the same gain ratios as a 1x10 just with one less gear. But, we shall see, I may try it an find it easy, or I may buy a 30/32 ring as well an keep the 28t for the first part of the season, as around here we have roughly 2 months off when we're buried with 3ft of snow in the winter.
    Full time rider part time racer...

    See my adventures here..

    https://www.instagram.com/projectnortheast/

  46. #46
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    38

    9 speed

    Shimano has 12/36 9 speed cassette. I'm running it with my 2010 XO group and a 32t single ring on the front.

  47. #47
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    441
    manchvegas - i don't have the thread in front of me, but I remember DW personally pitching in not to use any chainrings smaller than 32 as it hampers suspension action

  48. #48
    mtbr member
    Reputation: manchvegas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    1,099
    interesting, would like to see that thread. kinda too late for me right now, as I've already ordered. So, i will atleast give it a shot. I know the design engineer of the "widgit" actually designed it around a mojo sl (his personal bike). I will try it an see how it goes. The only thing I can think of that would "hamper the suspension" would be possibly more pedal bob with a smaller ring up front? I don't exactly get why, or how it could though. but, I'm not an engineer either......

    If all else fails, I can slap on my 22/32 rings an run that till I can order a chain guide or something.
    Full time rider part time racer...

    See my adventures here..

    https://www.instagram.com/projectnortheast/

  49. #49
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    531
    Quote Originally Posted by baltik View Post
    manchvegas - i don't have the thread in front of me, but I remember DW personally pitching in not to use any chainrings smaller than 32 as it hampers suspension action
    Wasn't DW stating that the beauty of the DW link is that its optimized to the chainring depending on the gradient you are riding at, ie.
    - Steeper gradient up optimized around small chainring
    - Rolling/flat terrain optimized around middle
    - Downhill optimized around large

    Or am I intermixing anti-squat(pedalling efficiency) with suspension action(bump compliance)?

  50. #50
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    441
    I think the jist was that the middle ring was versatile and worked well for climbing and descending, while the small ring was optimized for climbing and could affect suspension action on the downhills

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •